Cooling Issues

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

N4mwd- I looked for the info on reading your crankcase to match it with the bearings in the service manual but I came up with nothing. Do you know where to find the info?

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

N4mwd- I looked for the info on reading your crankcase to match it with the bearings in the service manual but I came up with nothing. Do you know where to find the info?

Page 8-5 and page 8-14. Note the marks are in ink and not stamped. The crankcase has to be matched with the crankshaft and harmonic balancer using the appropriate bearings ($10/each half X 10 halves). The crankshaft and harmonic balancer also have markings but you obviously can't see those right now.

Getting a case with identical markings doesn't guarantee you wont need new bearings, it just improves your odds.

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110970784222...84.m1436.l2649

Hows that look? Granted it's the right model?

I don't see anything wrong with it. I also noticed that it has the bearings still installed - that's a plus but nothing to party over. The first photo shows the checkerboard where the marks should be. The squares will either ha e a dot or not. I don't see any dots, but the bearings are already there. If your bike has no dots, then its a match. Remember the dots are like paint or ink or something like that. They are not stamped.

But before you go this route, I would personally remove your engine and split the case to see if there are any more surprises if it was my bike.

Based on what we know, it doesn't sound like there was a valve - piston impact or a serious timing error. That's good. But you do know the chain was messed up so that's $60 for a new one. And if it turns out the crank is messed up in any way, it has to be replaced because they cannot be repaired.

The guy that is selling the whole engine is just up the road - well within head smashing distance if it comes to that. I would ask him if he would give you a discount if you pick it up in person. This is something you should consider if you want a faster solution to the problem.

But if you just want a learning experience then replacing the case is the way to go. Once you have the case and your engine out, you can bring them over here and I'll put it on my stand and we'll swap all the parts to the new case.

[n4mwd]

Also, putting the case together requires a bit of frustration and the use of plastiguage. You have to completely assemble the engine with the crank and harmonic balancer in place and the plastiguage and tighten all the bolts. Then you have to take it all apart again and check to see if the plastiguage is squished to the right width. If not, you have to buy new bearings and repeat the whole process.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Also, putting the case together requires a bit of frustration and the use of plastiguage. You have to completely assemble the engine with the crank and harmonic balancer in place and the plastiguage and tighten all the bolts. Then you have to take it all apart again and check to see if the plastiguage is squished to the right width. If not, you have to buy new bearings and repeat the whole process.

Do you think the whole plastigauge ritual is necessary for my 20k mile engine? I'd like to throw it back together and get it running again asap. My other vehicle sucks gas like it's going out of style it's costing me a lot to drive it every day.

Edit: I should be on my vehicles forum asking questions about why my gas mileage is so low ha.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

Do you think the whole plastigauge ritual is necessary for my 20k mile engine? I'd like to throw it back together and get it running again asap. My other vehicle sucks gas like it's going out of style it's costing me a lot to drive it every day.

Edit: I should be on my vehicles forum asking questions about why my gas mileage is so low ha.

The plastigauge is mandatory. The engine tolerance is in microns. No wiggle room.

[baxtc1]

Also, as explained in the manual, don't replace half crankcase on it's own, always replace both halves as a pair.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Engine has been dropped. This will be an excitiing rebuild for sure!

[n4mwd]

Have you decided how you are going to handle it? New case or new engine?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see someone bought the case you were looking at. However, it really would have been a good idea to wait until you see what the condition of your crank is in. If the crank is bad, its around $500 to get a new one.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Have you decided how you are going to handle it? New case or new engine?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see someone bought the case you were looking at. However, it really would have been a good idea to wait until you see what the condition of your crank is in. If the crank is bad, its around $500 to get a new one.

I'm going to buy a used engine and take my time rebuilding this one. Maybe I'll keep it after, maybe I'll sell it.

[n4mwd]

Its nice having a hot spare. I recommend keeping it well lubicated, especially in the cylinders, and storing it indoors in the A/C. I say that because if you store it outdoors, condensation will fill the cylinders with water and rust everything up.

I saw a guy in Gainsville that had a set of plastics for the pregen for sale, but he wanted too much for them. Would you consider new ones if the price was right? Do they have to be red?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Its nice having a hot spare. I recommend keeping it well lubicated, especially in the cylinders, and storing it indoors in the A/C. I say that because if you store it outdoors, condensation will fill the cylinders with water and rust everything up.

I saw a guy in Gainsville that had a set of plastics for the pregen for sale, but he wanted too much for them. Would you consider new ones if the price was right? Do they have to be red?

I'd only buy plastics to sell the bike honestly. I'm pretty sure they'd get in the way of my clip ons anyways.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

2013-06-17 16.58.43.jpg

Spare engine

So frustrated I'm too tired to put her in the bike tonight. School will wait tomorrow until this is finished

[n4mwd]

Came kinda quick. Did you go up and get it? Not sure if skipping class is a good idea though. Depends on the subject I guess.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Came kinda quick. Did you go up and get it? Not sure if skipping class is a good idea though. Depends on the subject I guess.

Didn't have to skip any class.

Drove up to Tampa and back yesterday, put her in this morning. She drives very nice now!!!

Now I'm searching for the operating temp the radiator fan is supposed to switch on because I'm not sure it's doing that automatically yet!

I read up to 210 F I believe w/ no fan blowing so I'm a little worried about that...

Edit: Read on the 250 wiki page it kicks on at 225F so I guess I'm good so far. Gonna put that into my gauge.

Learned this morning how important it is to keep the engine mounting bolts loose until your radiator is on!!! That last bolt wouldn't go through so I had to pull the front sprocket cover off, loosen all the bolts, take one of the engine mounting bolts out until I got the radiator's bolt through, then torque all of them down.....

Also, putting the headers on before the radiator is also a pretty good idea. Doh

Now I have a spare 16t sprocket even though I run a 13 in front.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

Didn't have to skip any class.

Drove up to Tampa and back yesterday, put her in this morning. She drives very nice now!!!

Now I'm searching for the operating temp the radiator fan is supposed to switch on because I'm not sure it's doing that automatically yet!

I read up to 210 F I believe w/ no fan blowing so I'm a little worried about that...

Edit: Read on the 250 wiki page it kicks on at 225F so I guess I'm good so far. Gonna put that into my gauge.

Learned this morning how important it is to keep the engine mounting bolts loose until your radiator is on!!! That last bolt wouldn't go through so I had to pull the front sprocket cover off, loosen all the bolts, take one of the engine mounting bolts out until I got the radiator's bolt through, then torque all of them down.....

Also, putting the headers on before the radiator is also a pretty good idea. Doh

Now I have a spare 16t sprocket even though I run a 13 in front.

Congratulations on getting it running. Are you sure its a 16T and not a 15T? I heard that 16T sprockets don't fit.

I didn't follow you about the radiator bolts. Are you sure you didn't mean the front motor mount brackets. Anyhow, its definitely best to keep all three loose until they are all in - then torque them all at once.

I'm sure you put new oil in it. A lot of times salvage dealers drain it for shipment.

Question: What kind and where did you get your compression gauge? There aren't that many that will do a 10mm plug hole.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Congratulations on getting it running. Are you sure its a 16T and not a 15T? I heard that 16T sprockets don't fit.

I didn't follow you about the radiator bolts. Are you sure you didn't mean the front motor mount brackets. Anyhow, its definitely best to keep all three loose until they are all in - then torque them all at once.

I'm sure you put new oil in it. A lot of times salvage dealers drain it for shipment.

Question: What kind and where did you get your compression gauge? There aren't that many that will do a 10mm plug hole.

I got mine at harbor freight. Mine came w/ the right size. It's the smallest piece of the set. I also got my leakdown tester there which did not come with the right size so I have to use the compression tester's piece with it.

I'm having an issue now with starting the bike. I'll stop after riding for a period of time and it doesn't want to start. If I sit there and wait it will fire up again with a lot of choke. It died once while I was driving it at a low speed........ I hope it's not my jetting and I do suspect the battery might be going. If it doesn't start tomorrow before work and I jump it with my van's battery then I'm going to get it tested.

[n4mwd]

I bought the harbor freight tester too. It has over a yard of hose which lowers the value. It only showed about 35 psi on both cylinders on mine. I am a little concerned.

But in your case, is your petcock working OK and your fuel filter? Any issues at high speed & under load.

Your battery is easy to test with a voltmeter. See my battery blog here.

Any chance you wired the coils back incorrectly?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I bought the harbor freight tester too. It has over a yard of hose which lowers the value. It only showed about 35 psi on both cylinders on mine. I am a little concerned.

But in your case, is your petcock working OK and your fuel filter? Any issues at high speed & under load.

Your battery is easy to test with a voltmeter. See my battery blog here.

Any chance you wired the coils back incorrectly?

My compression tester hose is about a foot long and tests my psi just fine....

Maybe we have different ones.

My petcock has needed a rebuild for a while but it is flowing fuel (just not stopping fuel in "Off"). The bike has been flying so I'd be surprised if it was a tuning issue. I'll check the voltages later on today.

[Lychee]

Dude- glad you are back on the road! (sort of...)

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Lychee

Dude- glad you are back on the road! (sort of...)

sort of?

You must have known I got 2 tickets today. GGRRRRRRRR

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

sort of?

You must have known I got 2 tickets today. GGRRRRRRRR

Tickets? For what?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Tickets? For what?

speeding (no speedo hooked up yet) and no blinkers (also not installed)

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

speeding (no speedo hooked up yet) and no blinkers (also not installed)

I guess that was the front blinkers. I'm surprised that he didn't say something about your new front plastic and its headlight.

As far as the speedo, I thought your new gizmo did speed. What does it do if not speed?

The rear blinkers can integrate into the tail light.

Anyhow, wait about a month and the lawyers will come out of the woodwork begging to get you off. The blinker ticket goes away as soon as you fix it and take it to the county clerks office to inspect it. And pay them $10 I think. Good luck with it. With the speeding, you can elect to pay the fine without points if you have a decent driving record by pleading no contest. The problem is that the news of your speeding ticket has probably already spread like wild fire amongst all the insurance companies.

I really think some factory plastics would solve a few of the problems. At least the blinker issue.

[Lychee]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

sort of?

You must have known I got 2 tickets today. GGRRRRRRRR

sort of back on the road, meaning major issues fixed but bike still has issues...

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I guess that was the front blinkers. I'm surprised that he didn't say something about your new front plastic and its headlight.

As far as the speedo, I thought your new gizmo did speed. What does it do if not speed?

The rear blinkers can integrate into the tail light.

Anyhow, wait about a month and the lawyers will come out of the woodwork begging to get you off. The blinker ticket goes away as soon as you fix it and take it to the county clerks office to inspect it. And pay them $10 I think. Good luck with it. With the speeding, you can elect to pay the fine without points if you have a decent driving record by pleading no contest. The problem is that the news of your speeding ticket has probably already spread like wild fire amongst all the insurance companies.

I really think some factory plastics would solve a few of the problems. At least the blinker issue.

I have no rear blinkers because I still need to order the clear lenses in the rear. If anyone has the link to that site I'd appreciate it. I believe I got them for $12 last time?

Isn't there a 30 day limit to pay your ticket from date of issue? I'm definitely going to elect a lawyer this time. I already took the traffic school in Dec. so that's a no go anyways. I'm going to try and slow down and stay OFF of southern blvd from now on.

The gauge reads speed but you have to install the magnet and cable for it first! I got the tach working yesterday it's probably the only thing I'm unhappy about. I think I may try to take the tach out of the stock gauge and re-install it. Nothing beats that needle.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Lychee

sort of back on the road, meaning major issues fixed but bike still has issues...

ok gotcha.

I think I have to re-tune the jetting it's honestly hard to tell sometimes!

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Found these for less than $20 last time I swore. Does anyone know where they can be found cheaper?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Lig...b325f8&vxp=mtr

[Lychee]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

Found these for less than $20 last time I swore. Does anyone know where they can be found cheaper?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Lig...b325f8&vxp=mtr

Don't think these are made anymore. Price might be right.

[n4mwd]

You've already got red rear lenses. All you need is two of [these]:



Or similar. You just need to get one that is the right size for the hole and has a single wire (you need to add a ground wire).

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

You've already got red rear lenses. All you need is two of [these]:



Or similar. You just need to get one that is the right size for the hole and has a single wire (you need to add a ground wire).

I vaguely remember reading the florida statue that stated your signals had to be amber in color...

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

I vaguely remember reading the florida statue that stated your signals had to be amber in color...

I think that only applies to the fronts. The rears can be either amber or red.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

http://www.leg.state.fl.us/Statutes/.../0316.224.html

Looks like you're right

[n4mwd]

If you integrate your tail lights, make sure you measure and get the right sized bulb socket for a single wire bulb - Dorman #85806 for a 3/4" hole. I'm not positive on the hole size so you should measure it to be sure.

Then solder a ground wire on it. To mount it in the hole, you might have to use JB-Weld.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Ok so with the new engine in and the new thermo switch the bike is starting to get really hot at stop lights. It got up to 240 today and the fan kicks on well above 225... I'm guessing I have the problem isolated to the radiator and the thhermoswitch but I'm a little confused as to why the thermoswitch would function normally for a couple weeks then stop???? Should I look into a new radiator and thermoswitch??

[sousuke86]

I did not read through the entire thing but have you tried bleeding the system? Sometimes air bubbles get caught in there and cause the coolant to not flow

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by sousuke86

I did not read through the entire thing but have you tried bleeding the system? Sometimes air bubbles get caught in there and cause the coolant to not flow

That brings up a good point. I had knocked the radiator cap off halfway during one ride and maybe that let air in!!!!
But shouldn't that problem correct itself automatically?

[n4mwd]

Running with the radiator cap off will actually let the air out. Or more specifically, brings the air pocket to the radiator where you can fill it up.

It sounds like the same problem you had before. The cooling fan doesn't really work that well unless you are sitting still with the engine on. Getting hot while idling or moving slow doesn't really count. What counts is your over 40 mph speed. That shouldn't get more than 1/3 the way across on a day like today.

Did you put a jet kit in your carb or modify the needles?

Are you using regular antifreeze?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Running with the radiator cap off will actually let the air out. Or more specifically, brings the air pocket to the radiator where you can fill it up.

It sounds like the same problem you had before. The cooling fan doesn't really work that well unless you are sitting still with the engine on. Getting hot while idling or moving slow doesn't really count. What counts is your over 40 mph speed. That shouldn't get more than 1/3 the way across on a day like today.

Did you put a jet kit in your carb or modify the needles?

Are you using regular antifreeze?

The temp used to stay below 230 while sitting at traffic lights.... The radiator fan would kick on at about 221 and drop the temp a lot faster than it has been.

I have a jet kit in but I've never had problems with overheating after my install. I've used dex-cool for the entire time I've owned the bike.

[n4mwd]

It sounds like your switch is bad. Or it could also be the fan or wiring. The connector on the switch could be dirty or not connected properly.

Do you have the proper spark plugs, NGK CR8HSA, in there? The wrong plugs can make it run hotter than its supposed to.

It really sounds like your switch is bad. Most of those switches have wax inside them them that expands and pushes on a pushbutton switch. The wax can leak out causing the activation temp to increase. A new one is $50 at the dealer. Ebay has used ones, but you already have a used one.

If you've tested the fan motor by shorting the two connections in the connector and it comes on, then the only thing left is the switch.

If your switch has only one prong instead of two, then you could have a ground problem The two prong switches don't need a ground.