Front rotor options?

[iamjacob]

Hey all.

Sorry for such a boring question but I couldn't find much using the search.

So I mic'd my front rotor is exactly at the minimum spec for thickness and I need to replace my pads like yesterday. I just heard metal on metal yesterday so I'm in my car until I can pick up a new rotor to do a full front brake job.

I've already picked up a set of EBC HH sintered pads to swap out and now I just need a new rotor

Does any one have any recommendations? I'm a 10-15K mile a year commuter and I might... might try and get to a track day this summer.

So far I've found...

Galfer wave solid mount
Galfer wave floating rotor
EBC pro-lite rotor
EBC MD4162XC free floating rotor

Factory Kawasaki $$$

Good god the stock rotor is ridiculous!

The only rotors that I'm ruling out are the cheapo Chinese ebay no name specials..

[tfkrocks]

Galfer. I would stay away from EBC rotors after reading about the issues other members had with them on this site. I have the floating rotor but have no opinion about it versus the solid mount because I got it for free.

[sharky nrk]

Get a floating setup if you use your brake hard (track use) and you have the budget.

[garth285]

Check out the company BRAKING

They make front and rear rotors

Front Brake Rotor - WK103R - $240
Rear Brake Rotor - WF7503 - $95

Found them on ebay as well using those numbers

I went with a cheapo Ashria I think it was rear rotor, was maybe 50 bucks. I should have just bought the Braking rear since I know their quality is awesome.

The cheapo rotor I think it about 2-3mm smaller than stock so you dont get 100% pad grip.

Front rotor - http://www.braking.com/catalogue/det...rticolo=WK103R

Rear rotor - http://www.braking.com/catalogue/det...rticolo=WF7503

[Ghostt]

I have the EBC XC full floating rotor on my Ninja 500, love it, but pricey.

On the Ninja 250 i have the wave rotor, got it at an excellent price, and love it as well.

Both have EBC extreme HH pads, along with Synthetic DOT 5.1 fluid, and Stainless steel brake lines, I've never had any issues with either set up.

Both bikes have had the DIY fork spring modification, with 15w synthetic fork oil, which is just as important as the proper brake set up

Don't forget to disassemble and rebuild the calipers, as this is the most overlooked thing of servicing the braking system.

Keep in mind the importance of proper suspension and brake setup for the front, which does almost all the stopping for the bike, especially under hard braking.

Whichever setup you choose, stay away from no-name parts, safety vs money.

[iamjacob]

Thanks for all the recommendations. I'm probably just going to go with a galfer solid mount.

The floating rotor looks nice but unnecessary for the kind of riding I do / am capable of.

@Ghostt - I though you weren't supposed to use DOT5 brake fluid in the 250? EDIT : Sorry, didn't realize there was a 5.1

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

Thanks for all the recommendations. I'm probably just going to go with a galfer solid mount.

The floating rotor looks nice but unnecessary for the kind of riding I do / am capable of.

@Ghostt - I though you weren't supposed to use DOT5 brake fluid in the 250?

I'm mistaken, it's Non-synthetic 5.1 DOT which is very different from Silicone 5.0

Motul DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid - 1/2 L. 8070HC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0022ZFWMM..._43s1ub0XF1JF4

Also any solid mount rotor is more likely to warp or cone, this is due to the design, The advantages of a full floating rotor is it won't. And will/should deliver better service life/performance in my experiences.

EBC Brakes MD4162XC Brake Rotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00666JOUO..._o8s1ub04T10TC

[iamjacob]

I noticed the 5.1 thing just after I posted the last message. Thanks for the clarification though.

As far as rotor warpage, is a Galfer solid rotor any more or less prone to warpage than a stock rotor? My current rotor has 20,000 miles on it and I don't notice any warp in it yet.

Could be that I'm just not hard enough on the front brake to cause it to warp.

I saw the EBC floating rotor that you posted above, but along with tfkrocks above I have read of people having issues with EBC rotors. I don't remember if they were only the solid rotors or the floating ones.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

I noticed the 5.1 thing just after I posted the last message. Thanks for the clarification though.

As far as rotor warpage, is a Galfer solid rotor any more or less prone to warpage than a stock rotor? My current rotor has 20,000 miles on it and I don't notice any warp in it yet.

Could be that I'm just not hard enough on the front brake to cause it to warp.

I saw the EBC floating rotor that you posted above, but along with tfkrocks above I have read of people having issues with EBC rotors. I don't remember if they were only the solid rotors or the floating ones.

The rotor may not be, but have you checked it with a steel straight edge?

Here is my write up how-to caliper service which mentions the rotor issues

For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.*

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.*

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.*

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.*

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

*This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

**If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:*
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.*
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

**Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.*

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

**Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

..... I couldn't find much using the search.


....Does any one have any recommendations? I'm a 10-15K mile a year commuter and I might... might try and get to a track day this summer.

So far I've found...

Galfer wave solid mount

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...99&postcount=6

Get these. As good as OEM. I've had no problems with them and they look good too.

I got the brake rotors from here;

HardRacing.com - 704-799-2192
264 Rolling Hill Rd.
Mooresville, NC 28117 U.S.A.
http://www.hardracing.com/

If you call, ask for Leonard and tell him you want the best deal on The Galfer Solid Mount Wave Rotors for the Ninja 250- DF203 Front & DF204 Rear.

[agentbad]

I just buy used oem rotors with low mileage. Seems to work just fine so far.

[iamjacob]

Originally Posted by agentbad

I just buy used oem rotors with low mileage. Seems to work just fine so far.

Where from? Ebay? The forum? Local salvage yard?

[Ghostt]

used rotors are fine, as long as to Mic for thickness, and check them for straightness with a metal straight edge, if they pass, they are good to go.

agentbad

I just buy used oem rotors with low mileage. Seems to work just fine so far.

I have at ask how many, and how much have you paid so far per bike?

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

Where from? Ebay? The forum? Local salvage yard?

From a part out on this forum.

Originally Posted by Ghostt

used rotors are fine, as long as to Mic for thickness, and check them for straightness with a metal straight edge, if they pass, they are good to go.

I have at ask how many, and how much have you paid so far per bike?

Just one front rotor so far for $25. I could have got the set for cheap but I needed other parts from the same bike.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by agentbad

From a part out on this forum.



Just one front rotor so far for $25. I could have got the set for cheap but I needed other parts from the same bike.

I will usually first look in the sale section of the forum, I have a personal preference if I'm going to be spending money, I'd prefer to give it to a friend, whenever possible.

It also helps knowing whom your dealing with also.

[iamjacob]

Thanks everybody for all the recommendations. With the super nice weather here in CA I just decided to go with the EBC floating rotor that ghostt posted a link to above. It's about the same prices as a Galfer solid rotor and I got it in 2 days.

The used route was tempting but I didn't want to end up with a warped or nearly used up rotor.

Ghostt, thanks for the caliper overhaul process. I'm working through it now.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

Thanks everybody for all the recommendations. With the super nice weather here in CA I just decided to go with the EBC floating rotor that ghostt posted a link to above. It's about the same prices as a Galfer solid rotor and I got it in 2 days.

The used route was tempting but I didn't want to end up with a warped or nearly used up rotor.

Ghostt, thanks for the caliper overhaul process. I'm working through it now.

Okay, the two last suggestions I have is bleeding the brakes, I personally have a vacuum hand pump, and it's the fastest way I know of.

Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS..._u1d3ub1QH3TRV

That's just to give you an idea of what I'm talking about, I've had mine for over 20 years now, and it handy for a lot if things as well.

The second is bedding the brakes pads, it's very important that it's done properly, if it's not, you be posting next that the brakes still sucks, so just take it easy on the front brake for at least 100 miles, I personally do about 200~300 miles.

Once there bedded properly you will be very satisfied with the results.

Any questions, just let me know.

[Ghostt]

Also don't forget to grease the slider pins

[iamjacob]

Any old caliper grease?

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

The second is bedding the brakes pads, it's very important that it's done properly, if it's not, you be posting next that the brakes still sucks, so just take it easy on the front brake for at least 100 miles, I personally do about 200~300 miles.

100+ miles F' that... takes way too long, you must have the patience of a saint for your brakes.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by csmith12

100+ miles F' that... takes way too long, you must have the patience of a saint for your brakes.

I do but I like having my brakes work at peak performance, after all the time and money invested, no sense in wasting it because improper bedding, after all it's literally my life, in my hands.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

Any old caliper grease?

YES, just make sure it's a good brand, no cheap no-name crap

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by iamjacob

Thanks everybody for all the recommendations. With the super nice weather here in CA I just decided to go with the EBC floating rotor that ghostt posted a link to above. It's about the same prices as a Galfer solid rotor and I got it in 2 days.

The used route was tempting but I didn't want to end up with a warped or nearly used up rotor.

Ghostt, thanks for the caliper overhaul process. I'm working through it now.

Sorry it's Friday and not a fan of EBC rotors.

[iamjacob]

Originally Posted by agentbad

...not a fan of EBC rotors.

I noticed that from your other posts. We'll see if I made a mistake with the rotor in the future.

[Ghostt]

you'll be fine, Ghostt approved,

Just like the never-ending debates over oil and tires types, everyone has their own personal preferences.

Mine is EBC for pads, shoes, full floating rotors, but for the Ninjette I decided to try my first wave rotor, which I will be checking every few hundred miles, so far I've got 4k and it seems fine, so far, but I haven't yet done a meticulous inspection.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by agentbad

Sorry it's Friday and not a fan of EBC rotors.

It's all good, brother.