ninjette.org

Go Back   ninjette.org > General > General Motorcycling Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old November 25th, 2021, 12:05 AM   #161
DannoXYZ
ninjette.org certified postwhore
 
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011

Motorcycle(s): CB125T EX250F Ninja250R-street CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR VFR750F

Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
I am still completely confuzed as to how and why both plug ins to the back brake light switch have 12VDC going to them....
...
it's my understanding from studying the wireing diagram that the white wire should be "hot" and the brown one should be grounded through the bulb.
...
I guess the thing to do now is trace the stop light bulb power back to the battery and try and find out WHY the brown wire has power in it when it shouldn't....
....
....
Bob... system is POSITIVE ground with +12v terminal of battery connected to ground. Trace cable from battery positive cable and see where it goes. Normal to have constant +12v on both terminals of bulbs when not lit. Then switch connects other side to battery -neg of battery.
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote




Old November 25th, 2021, 01:10 AM   #162
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
NO, I got it Danno ! thanks anyway it was the front brake switch being stuck ON... and it powers the brown wire to light the stop light... the rear brake switch powers the brown wire too when the switch is closed so why it confused me is kind'a silly it shouldn't have ! I un plugged the front brake switch and the back one works great now....like it should....
....
I have been trying to bleed the back brake but so far no cigar !
I've gotten alot of crap out but not much fluid at all... i am not sure but I think the PO put a new washer and bolt in the brake fluid reservoir and I think the washer is covering the holes to let the fluid go into the line ! ...
as dirty as that stuff is ( looks like mineral oil here too! ) I think it would be a great idea to just pull it off flush the reservoir real good and make sure fluid flows through it, and go ahead and rebuild that brake cylinder.
the stuff that came out is not clear but dark brown and air bubbles only a very small amount of fresh fluid has made the trek through the cylinder...
....
I didn't want to get into the rebuilding of a brake master cylinder but it looks like I have no choice...
what I did is just like you do on a car and that is pump it up, hold it down and then open the bleeder valve and let the pressure escape and repeat until your sick of doing it , and then do it some more, this only yielded a tiny amount of fluid I used more fluid putting it in the can to cover the end of the hose than I got through it.
even if I didn't get air out of it I should be getting fluid.... I may need to take the caliper off to get out all the air as the brake line forms an "S" just in front of the caliper !!!!.... typical on bikes now days I guess, but that is poor planning in my book !
I am tempted to see if I hooked up my handy dandy vacuum tester if I could suck fluid from the reservoir or not.... I bet I couldn't ...
it just acts like there is no fluid getting to it....
and it's not leaking a single drop even with all that peddle work so that kind'a tells me something is up.
( i bet it's that big washer in the fluid reservoir !)
....
later all !
Bob......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 05:47 AM   #163
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
I decided to hook up my vacuum pump/brake bleeder kit to the bike and try to suck out the old cruddy fluid....it's supposed to do that real well...maybe if I can get that stuff out of there and good fluid into it, it'll work ....
it COULD happen ! LOL.....
probably the reason it isn't pumping worth a darn is the check valve in the master cylinder is stuck open with crud,,,if I can suck it out with the vacuum pump it may well start working and I won't have to take it off till I replace brake lines... I plan on pumping about 2 reservoirs through the master cylinder to clean it up... but I do not plan on using kerosene in the system ! which is recommended by the manual.... as you can never get it all out of there !
....
so we'll see if the vacuum pump saves the day tomorrow...
....
Bob......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 05:59 AM   #164
Triple Jim
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
 
Triple Jim's Avatar
 
Name: Jim
Location: North Central North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016

Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250

Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
... but I do not plan on using kerosene in the system ! which is recommended by the manual.... as you can never get it all out of there !
If the manual says to use kerosene to clean the system, what type of brake fluid does it say to use? Is the the Triumph manual?
Triple Jim is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 06:00 AM   #165
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
NO, I got it Danno ! thanks anyway it was the front brake switch being stuck ON... and it powers the brown wire to light the stop light... the rear brake switch powers the brown wire too when the switch is closed so why it confused me is kind'a silly it shouldn't have ! I un plugged the front brake switch and the back one works great now....like it should....
....
I have been trying to bleed the back brake but so far no cigar !
I've gotten alot of crap out but not much fluid at all... i am not sure but I think the PO put a new washer and bolt in the brake fluid reservoir and I think the washer is covering the holes to let the fluid go into the line ! ...
as dirty as that stuff is ( looks like mineral oil here too! ) I think it would be a great idea to just pull it off flush the reservoir real good and make sure fluid flows through it, and go ahead and rebuild that brake cylinder.
the stuff that came out is not clear but dark brown and air bubbles only a very small amount of fresh fluid has made the trek through the cylinder...
....
I didn't want to get into the rebuilding of a brake master cylinder but it looks like I have no choice...
what I did is just like you do on a car and that is pump it up, hold it down and then open the bleeder valve and let the pressure escape and repeat until your sick of doing it , and then do it some more, this only yielded a tiny amount of fluid I used more fluid putting it in the can to cover the end of the hose than I got through it.
even if I didn't get air out of it I should be getting fluid.... I may need to take the caliper off to get out all the air as the brake line forms an "S" just in front of the caliper !!!!.... typical on bikes now days I guess, but that is poor planning in my book !
I am tempted to see if I hooked up my handy dandy vacuum tester if I could suck fluid from the reservoir or not.... I bet I couldn't ...
it just acts like there is no fluid getting to it....
and it's not leaking a single drop even with all that peddle work so that kind'a tells me something is up.
( i bet it's that big washer in the fluid reservoir !)
....
later all !
Bob......
Here little tip Bob for your rear brake hose get fuel injection hoses "Gate 27341" which has plastics polyethylene inner core and stainless steel fuel injection hose clamps and so they don't rust Note: DON'T USED WORM DRIVE Clamps.
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 06:16 AM   #166
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
If the manual says to use kerosene what type of brake fluid does it say to use?
It standard back then would have been Dot 3 or 4 Fluid as Dot 5 was very expensive back then, however I would thoroughly clean it and switch it over to Dot 5 that's my recommendation
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 07:15 AM   #167
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
If the manual says to use kerosene to clean the system, what type of brake fluid does it say to use? Is the the Triumph manual?
Lockheed brake fluid.... and I never heard of the stuff.. i think most everyone uses dot3 ....
....
Bob......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 07:28 AM   #168
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
Lockheed brake fluid.... and I never heard of the stuff.. i think most everyone uses dot3 ....
....
Bob......
Lockheed Brake Fluid or aka Dot 4 which is Glycol Ether/Borate Ester composition that just offers a higher boiling point that all and is fine to be used in Dot 3 system.
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 07:48 AM   #169
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
shspvr:
that is an option... as that is what I put in it when I got home and found the reservoir completely empty.... and it has not gone down much even with all the bleeding I have done....
the way I understand it brake fluid is supposed to be void of oxygen...for a reason... oxygen compresses. you don't want that but the types of fluid do definitely matter as some fluids will eat the o rings right out of a brake system
in a few minutes flat ! many brake fluids are NOT backwards compatible
it's the same with transmission fluid ...just put dextron in a ford transmission to see the results.... their both automatic transmission fluids but the idiots made the seals react to the competitors fluids of choice.... such dirty and underhanded tactics were all over ford and chevy back in the day now they work together to screw you.... and you have no idea what they've done behind closed doors ! that's why I drive foreign make cars !
....
a new seal kit costs $16.00 for the Triumphs rear master cylinder ...( all that is is the O rings and cups. no check valve or piston.)
which isn't bad but they sell the internal workings as a new cylinder that is $98.00.... or a completely new one for $208.00 bracket and all and it's Stainless steel...
so if it's scored at all you just as well buy a new one.
because an honest to god Kit doesn't exist !

....
my options are limited, but I really don't think the master cylinder is as good as dead yet... I took a wild gamble by putting dot 5 brake fluid in it... but there are NO leaks and it's had plenty of time to eat the o rings if it was going to so I think I am safe there....
....
i'll see what the vacuum tool does for me and go from there...
i expect it to build up alot of pressure and do nothing... and if it does that I'll take the entire unit off ... and tear it apart.
....the PO replaced the rear brake line last year and he just put on a front brake line about a week before I bought it.... I don't think the rear brake has worked sense if you want the truth... there are new pads front and rear as well... he couldn't start it so he couldn't ride it so it was time to sell it .
I got it started at his place but only barely the slipping clutch made that real hard !
.....
Bob....
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 08:27 AM   #170
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
shspvr:
that is an option... as that is what I put in it when I got home and found the reservoir completely empty.... and it has not gone down much even with all the bleeding I have done....
the way I understand it brake fluid is supposed to be void of oxygen...for a reason... oxygen compresses. you don't want that but the types of fluid do definitely matter as some fluids will eat the o rings right out of a brake system
in a few minutes flat ! many brake fluids are NOT backwards compatible
it's the same with transmission fluid ...just put dextron in a ford transmission to see the results.... their both automatic transmission fluids but the idiots made the seals react to the competitors fluids of choice.... such dirty and underhanded tactics were all over ford and chevy back in the day now they work together to screw you.... and you have no idea what they've done behind closed doors ! that's why I drive foreign make cars !
....
a new seal kit costs $16.00 for the Triumphs rear master cylinder ...( all that is is the O rings and cups. no check valve or piston.)
which isn't bad but they sell the internal workings as a new cylinder that is $98.00.... or a completely new one for $208.00 bracket and all and it's Stainless steel...
so if it's scored at all you just as well buy a new one.
because an honest to god Kit doesn't exist !

....
my options are limited, but I really don't think the master cylinder is as good as dead yet... I took a wild gamble by putting dot 5 brake fluid in it... but there are NO leaks and it's had plenty of time to eat the o rings if it was going to so I think I am safe there....
....
i'll see what the vacuum tool does for me and go from there...
i expect it to build up alot of pressure and do nothing... and if it does that I'll take the entire unit off ... and tear it apart.
....the PO replaced the rear brake line last year and he just put on a front brake line about a week before I bought it.... I don't think the rear brake has worked sense if you want the truth... there are new pads front and rear as well... he couldn't start it so he couldn't ride it so it was time to sell it .
I got it started at his place but only barely the slipping clutch made that real hard !
.....
Bob....
P.S. I refer to reservoir brake hose it self should be replacement to cylinder with fuel injection hoses because the hoses back then have a tendency to have rubber flaking off.

The thing is your primary cup seal which is back bleeding into large intake port hole normally the primary seal cup it's supposed to seal off right after compensating port it that really super tiny hole next to the stud for fluid supply and P.S. the brake cylinder dose have a check valve because with it has maintain a 2psi static pressure on the brake system or it will not work right.

Scott bright the piston

Being both rear and front user the same cylinder
The Yellow it check valve
The Red primary cup seal
The Green secondary cup ring
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CCE46561CEA449B19DC982B1D43BD1C8.jpg (68.4 KB, 0 views)
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 08:43 AM   #171
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
BTW...I checked the manual and the schematic that it shows for the rear brake fluid reservoir it shows a big washer under the bolt.... no holes in it either...
I bet it's held off from covering those holes by the plastic of the reservoir....
so unless that hole is plugged...... fluid should be going down that line.
,.... hummmm
taking off the line at the master cylinder should allow the reservoir to drip empty...if it doesn't that's my problem !.....

....
Bob........
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 08:53 AM   #172
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
You have remove the Hex bolt where line feeds in to the cylinder in order to see the holes
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DB968F5CE59E4F4EB642AB4CCA00793C.jpg (22.3 KB, 0 views)
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 06:13 PM   #173
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
Right, but in this case there is a remote cap on the Master cylinder instead of
the reservoir ...it just has a push on fitting and hose clamp... AND a hex head screw to hold that on with...
yep it's those holes that I suspect are plugged up. or the same ones in the reservoir....a foot or so away under the seat.
....
I just got up......where's the Coffee ???
LOL
...Bob.......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 06:31 PM   #174
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Oh I see your is setup like this so it share the same reservoir as front brake reservoir
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear_brake.jpg (86.3 KB, 6 views)
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 08:51 PM   #175
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
No it has it's own separate reservoir under the seat....
...and yah that's the picture of the unit. but it does not come out of it's hiding place very easily....
I took some pictures for ya... gott'a mess with them first , or they will be sideways.... but I found the problem the reservoir was completely plugged with crystalized stuff and the aluminum holder is all pitted I need a new one....
...the o ring seal will never seal to that thing again...
...

Bob...
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 09:01 PM   #176
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
here's what I found a bit ago...
as you can see the corrosion is terrible ! and the line connecting the reservoir with the master cylinder came off in pieces...
....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg r.master holder01A.jpg (89.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg R.master holder02A.jpg (110.2 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg R.master Rez01A.jpg (114.2 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg R.MasterRez02A.jpg (97.8 KB, 2 views)
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old November 25th, 2021, 09:02 PM   #177
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
how about that...it worked first try ! imagen that !
LOL....
the reservoir, 3rd and 4th pic. attaches to that ate up round aluminum rod via that bolt I was talking about with the large washer under it.... I was right it did not block it off there is a height difference.
but that cup is supposed to seal to that round rod and hold the brake fluid and send it down to the master cylinder.....
age has not been kind to these parts at all.... I will replace the rod as the surface must be smooth to seal.
...
to get the master cylinder out to clean it ,is going to be a long drawn out ordeal... I have to take off the rear tire
to get the room to get the MC out... to take the tire off and out of there I need to remove the rear fender....
....I am wondering if I took the rear shock off could I lower the swing arm enough to get the tire out of the fender...
...I don't want to take off the fender if I don't have too ! LOL....
...who would have thought the speedo cable goes to the rear wheel ? that's a new one on me !
anyway.... now I wait again for parts....
but I am reluctant to order parts till I get the Master cylinder off and inspect it...I may well need a new one !
but what the heck I know I need the reservoir holder... I just as well order it now as it takes a week or more to get to me from Denver Co.
.....

Bob.....
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old Yesterday, 12:40 AM   #178
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
ok i ORDERED a new reservoir, and a new master cylinder to the tune of $180 bucks (and the hose that connects them)....
I wasn't going to buy a new master cylinder unless I needed it but I got thinking...it's the brakes and they MUST work and work good ! your life depends on it .... so I thought what the heck it's only money and went ahead and ordered it.
....
I was just going to re use the old reservoir and replace the mounting rod ....
BUT ... they were out of stock and the only thing they had to replace it was the entire thing....so I got it too...$70.00....
....
so by the time it gets here I should have the old one off and be ready to put the new one on and put the wheel back on.....
....it's sure nice to have money in the bank to do all this spending that I have done but it won't last very long if I keep that up !!!!
that money i have been spending is from the sell of the Ranch...my inheritance...
so I am fixing my toys the best I can WHILE i can ! LOL
....
later all !
Bob........
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM   #179
shspvr
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021

Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 120
Sorry long day of eating and getting **** face any way some of that corrosion is cause by water and or possible battery acid.
The crystalized in the reservoir is because of Dot 3/4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, that is it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.
If the brake fluid is not changed it will continue to absorb moisture, and eventually it will crystallize and form deposits inside the brake system that can cause the seals to fail and components to seize.
That why you want switch over to Dot 5 and best of all it doesn't eat up the paint.
Note: If I you I flush out brake lines and rebuild caliper and clean out the cross piston passage or just replace it with a new set EBC pads.
Yup your life depends on those back brake work to if the front failure.
Keep in mind the better shape it in the more value it being so as I see it money well spent.
shspvr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old Yesterday, 09:16 AM   #180
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
I didn't know that about dot 3&4 brake fluid...thank you.
....
I plan to flush the front disk system as well.... the switch for the rear brake light is optional to me as I don't use the front brake much on a bike like that...
but it would be nice to have the switch working, so I will see if I can repair it when I get done with the back part...
...
Bob......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Old Yesterday, 05:23 PM   #181
DannoXYZ
ninjette.org certified postwhore
 
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011

Motorcycle(s): CB125T EX250F Ninja250R-street CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR VFR750F

Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Military is biggest user of DOT-5 silicone fluid for its high-temp operating limits and durability (doesn't absorb water). Can go for 5-yrs between changes easily. However, it's not compatible with DOT-3/4 fluid. So entire system needs to flushed and completely rinsed out with alcohol before DOT-5 can be used. Much easier to install on systems that specify DOT-5 as factory fill.

Nowadays, there's DOT-5.1 which is compatible with DOT-3/4. Although benefits of DOT-4/5.1 will be lost on this bike, but you'll get all disadvantages anyway. Primary benefit of 4/5.1 is higher boiling point. Beneficial for track bikes that see constant maximum braking many times per minute for hours on end. If you're not experiencing brake-fade on regular basis, you won't notice difference going to DOT-4/5.1 fluid.

However, those are even more hygroscopic than DOT-3, meaning they'll absorb water-vapour out of air even faster than DOT-3. Meaning yearly fluid change is mandatory. I change DOT-4 on my race-bike at beginning and end of each season (2x per year). Stay with DOT-3 unless you're racing bike and/or have yearly fluid-change schedule.
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote


1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.
Old Yesterday, 07:12 PM   #182
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc & many others in the past.

Posts: 461
well thanks Danno !
it sounds to me like dot 5 is the way to go mainly because of it's longevity...
and doesn't dissolve paint on contact. ( i like that part)
but it sounds like I'd have to flush the brake systems extremely well before using it.... sense I am putting in a completely new system in the back I don't see that as a problem about the only thing I am keeping is the hardware and the one hose to the caliper....
.... I had a major fight with that bike today... getting the old master cylinder OFF..... some idiot put the bolt in backwards ( probably from the factory as that bracket is only removable at frame level) I had to cut the bolt off to get it out
then the trouble started with the master cylinder ! the tiny allen type grub screw that locks the cylinder to the bracket wouldn't turn ( steel and aluminum don't mix) then the ball end snapped off in the allen head... and would not come out and I played with trying to get it out for over an hour, finally I decided to drill it out... after 2 hrs of drilling sharpening bits and drilling some more I finally broke through off to the side ..it took out about half the grub screw.... with that I tried to unscrew the master cylinder from the bracket.... it finally broke free but of course it screwed up the threads all the way out I cleaned it up got the grub screw all the way out and threaded it back in in an attempt to straighten the threads a bit... that helped some...
i have no tap that big... I should replace the bracket but the only one that is available is the entire new kit at a whopping $200 bucks ... I am sure I can get the old bracket to hold the new master cylinder so I'll try that first.
... I am glad I ordered the $94.00 master cylinder after looking at this one ....it is full of junk and all plugged up....
...I will need to replace the bolt I had to cut off to get the darn thing out of there .... I know why they put the bolt in backwards though because the head of the bolt just barely clears the rear foot peg attachment frame...
really close quarters on this thing !... but I'll put the bolt in lock-tight the nut and cut off any overhang of the bolt past the nut so it won't hit the frame.
... and that will make removal in the future alot easier.
...I can barely get my fingers in there to adjust the peddle play... and I can't with the tire on.....so the question arises then How do you adjust the back brake peddle play ? you remove the tire again.... or get used to it the way it is ! .... that is worse than Ludacris !
... and getting that tire off was a major knock down drag out battle...
I finally won though with my Kids help to keep the bike from falling over !
seems you have to put it on the center stand and then raise it an additional 3" so the tire will clear the fender.... who's idea was that ???? that is what the manual says !!!
so I raised it with the floor jack and with the Kid balancing it I got the tire out, and lowered it back down... to put the tire back on I gott'a do that again
..... how stupid can you get ? obviously the home owner was not supposed to change his own tires on this bike.
....
I need concrete anchor bolts in the floor and a front chock for the front wheel
to do this by myself ! or a HF bike lift and move the bike to the back of the lift so i can take the tire off...
totally ridiculous ! the Rancher must have used his shop crane !
LOL....
...
anyway progress was made even if it was extremely frustrating...
...
I think I'll have a Beer !
HAHAHAHAH
Bob.......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote


Reply




Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Today is also [Maybe] the day! corksil General Motorcycling Discussion 2 June 20th, 2015 03:43 PM
What did you do with your day today? Apex Off-Topic 12 August 28th, 2012 08:24 PM
Today's The Day... Armo55 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk 26 April 7th, 2012 04:57 PM
What did you do with your day today? Apex Off-Topic 11 May 8th, 2011 01:43 PM
Today is the day!!!! Apex Off-Topic 10 October 17th, 2009 01:15 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Motorcycle Safety Foundation

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:41 AM.


remote server monitor
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Except where otherwise noted, all site contents are Copyright 2021 ninjette.org, All rights reserved.