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Old October 20th, 2021, 08:24 PM   #1
Bob KellyIII
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Today was a long day, but the best day in 5 years at least !

.... I came home with a 1977 Triumph Boniville 750cc.... that Runs !!!
for $4000.00 ... it's in real good shape all original it has a bunch of miles on it
but the guy said when he bought it the dealer had just put in a new top end
and I'ed guess that was about 1000 miles to 2,000 miles ago as the old fart only road it around at the Ranch ! a super nice guy and he hated to see his bike go but at 74 years old it is time to face reality ! and I had to agree
I finally got it running and rode it around his shop to the back of the trailer and we pushed it up the ramp and then tied it down ...( with every ratchet strap I own) I doubled the ones on the handle bars and even added one across the middle plus 2 from the rear...
....it didn't budge the entire way home about 50 miles or maybe 75miles.
....but by the time I got home I decided to leave it tied down to the trailer over night and take it off tomorrow in the day-light !
.....
I've wanted a Triumph Bonneville sense I was a kid and it's even the 750cc not the 650cc.... so I got the bigger better one at that ! a few boxes of extra parts came with it and the signed off title ... so I am as happy as a cow in deep clover !
it's got new tires on it and a new battery, there is very little it really needs as it's ready to ride the way it is ! I am still in shock ! this kind'a thing never happens to me.... but I fell in and come out smelling like a rose today !!!!
LOL....
I am not impressed by the app of google maps on my phone though we got lost 2 times trying to find him ..and he finally drove out to the corner and waved at us as we drove up ! LOL....
there were no street names at all on the google map ! ( not that that mattered much as half of the streets wern't marked anyway... its farming country, they know right where their at ...what's the problem ? LOL
....
So I am now the proud owner of a Classic 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750 !
.....the highest tech thing on the bike is flashing turn signals !

....later !
Bob...........
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Old October 21st, 2021, 12:19 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
and then tied it down ...( with every ratchet strap I own) I doubled the ones on the handle bars and even added one across the middle plus 2 from the rear...
Make sure to not compress the shocks too much, you can blow the seals on bumps if you do. More tie-down strength /= more better.

Quote:
....it didn't budge the entire way home about 50 miles or maybe 75miles.
Tightened mine 1mi after, 5mi after, then checked it three more times and didn't need to tighten again. It needed it those first two times. 120mi.

Quote:
....but by the time I got home I decided to leave it tied down to the trailer over night and take it off tomorrow in the day-light !
Same as first comment, leaving them compressed is a no-no.
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Old October 21st, 2021, 05:10 AM   #3
Bob KellyIII
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I have hear that before that compressing the forks will blow the seals but in all honnesty i think it is a MYTH ! forks are designed to be compressed and they can be bottomed out without damage to the shock of any kind... how ever the next time you do it you could damage them, it's a ware/stress thing that if it blows the seal the seals were weak already, and all the compression did was make the weak link show up....
I compressed the forks all the way to the bottom and we came home all the way with them like that.... yes I checked the tie downs after about a mile or so and made sure everything was still tight...
then again about 3/4 home it hadn't bugged an inch.
..... that Drive home was stressful the Honda CRV really didn't like pulling that little trailer... and it was real light in the front end of the car... I am used to having a pickup to pull trailers... not a glorified mini-van LOL
so I keep the speed down to 60mph or less and we had no mishaps at all.
...but I was really glad to get home... the last 5 miles or so was rain and strong wind... which didn't surprise me at all as it had been cloudy all day.
....
we'll see if the front forks leak in the next few days, but thank you for the info. !!!!
....
that is a heavy bike on that little trailer... and I am real glad I welded the 2" tie down eye loops I have going through the frame of it....
I even have a steel loading Ramp now, previously all I had was boards..
the guy even gave me the ramp he had ! which is really Neet !
.....
it may take a while for me to get used to the Kick start on the O'l girl as I am spoiled by electric starts now ! LOL....
....
and I couldn't stand it, and went out there and un tied the bike and left it on it's side stand on the trailer
so it wouldn't sit there all night in compression.... not that I think it would hurt it, but why take the chance Right ?
.....

Bob........
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Old October 21st, 2021, 07:14 AM   #4
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Well Bob, there's only one thing your post is missing: pics! We gotta see the new bike, it sounds like a gem Not to mention, right up your alley, those old Brit bikes are the bees knees. An old riding buddy of mine has been a Triumph fan for as long as I've known him and has two. One old and one new, both Bonnevilles. Here is the old one:

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Old October 21st, 2021, 07:52 AM   #5
Bob KellyIII
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I'll get some pics today and post'em !
the bike is black and chrome for the most part and the tank is the triumph Red
( not my color at all.) but she sure is a gorgeous thing I can't wait to get it off the trailer and in the back yard.... but it is windy rainy and cold right now so I'm putting it off till later today.
... Yah ! to me this is the Ultimate in motorcycle. I couldn't ask for a better cruiser as far as I am concerned !
.... but Curiosity has got me by the throat ! I am wondering which bike will handle best on these country roads up here,.... the Ninja or the Triumph...
if you would have asked me that question 6 months ago I would have said the Triumph of course ! but now having got the Ninja as good as I can get it I am not so sure on that.... I think the heavy triumph is going to take a back seat to the handling of the Ninja 250R.... it will be really educational to see which one is best ! at the moment I am undecided because I haven't ridden the Triumph...just about 150 ft is all...
but I have the Ninja and it is going to be very hard to beat !
....
Bob........
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Old October 21st, 2021, 11:53 AM   #6
Bob KellyIII
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OK for those of you who care here are some pic's of my Triumph...
it's a 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750 it has just over 30,000 miles on it and the top end was done recently (what that actually entailed I have no idea , probably just new rings.)
but here she is...
Bob.........
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1977 Triumph 750 01.jpg (181.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 1977 Triumph 750 02.jpg (185.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 1977 Triumph 750 05.jpg (227.3 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 1977 Triumph 750 08.jpg (143.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Triumph & Ninja .jpg (204.5 KB, 3 views)
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Old October 21st, 2021, 11:57 AM   #7
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Lookin' good!! That's a steal at $4k
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Old October 21st, 2021, 12:00 PM   #8
Bob KellyIII
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yah I thought so too... I'm in the middle of fixing those pics ! sorry !
Bob.......

humm...that didn't change a thing....
there we go... unknown to me the edit program put the new saved pictures in a different directory ! LOL
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 07:54 AM   #9
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I've ran into a tiny problem with the Triumph... I can't find the place to add OIL
HAHAHAHAHHA ! I think I actually found it though it is under the seat on this thing and a large cap is to be removed and a fine screen sits directly under the cap.... But there is no oil residue in there at all and a bolt that holds a rubber washer down sits there plane as day so either the bolt has to come out
and then you add the oil and or maybe a dip stick is on the end of the bolt
....I've never ran into this on any other bike I've owned... it's supposed to be one of the Triumph designs that have the OIL IN FRAME as they call it
but there is no filler cap on the frame tube anywhere that I can see.
the cap under the seat looks like the only possibility
in between rain storms I went out and discovered the "Under the seat" stuff
the battery and below that should be the air box and filter
...it's supposed to hold 4 pints of oil but before I ride it anywhere I want to check the oil !... I should go down to the DMV tomorrow and get it changed over and licensed before I ride it anywhere anyway !
( I bet the carburetors on that thing have not been synced in 20 years !)

the PO did give me 2 extra boots from the carb to the air box, which was cool ! but the ones on it look in new condition anyway. he did take very good care of it !
he showed me the brake line he replaced recently on the disk brakes
but I don't think the back one has been done.
.... I found some mufflers for it but man are they expensive ! but I may bite the bullet and get them anyway as this thing is way too loud !
.... the engine in this thing is Unique ! it has a bore smaller than the stroke
and a dry sump and the transmission is seperate from the engine and takes 90w gear oil !!!! that surprised me ! I expected that on my W1 Kawasaki 650
(BSA) as the trans was separate from the engine but so is this one apparently
the trans has separate oil in it !
...I've been reading the manual and the one he gave me with it ( owners manual) and i haven't been able to find out how to check the engine oil !
of all the silly things ! they Hid it on me ! ( it's gott'a be that cap under the seat)
....
it weighs 409 lbs and should have around 65hp ( I am guessing)
which means it will get up and go real good !
......
I was reminiscing with the wife about being back in highschool so many years ago and remembered at about the time I graduated Triumph changed the geometry of their front ends on the bikes and I thought NOOOOOO !
but they did ! and she remembered me fussing about that....
but I was hoping that this machine was old enough to be before the change, but I graduated in 1971 i think so 1977 will have their NEW geometry
so we shall see.... ( they changed the Rake and trail )
I bet it handles like a Honda ! HAHAHAHAHA
I was told by one of the dealers they changed it for the faster roads now
which may or may not be true but the older ones handled like a dream
my W1-650 was the best handling bike I owned up till this Ninja.... so we shall see if the triumph people got it right or not !
.....

later all !
Bob.......
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 08:24 AM   #10
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This site is usually pretty good for specifications:

https://bikez.com/motorcycles/triump...ville_1977.php
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 09:15 AM   #11
Bob KellyIII
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Cool ! so 49.hp not what I had hoped for but more than plenty ! LOL.
the owner told me where to find the oil filler cap.... in an email this morning... ( how embarrassing)
I admit though that is a silly place to put the oil fill cap......under the seat !Sigh!
oh well the Brits do things differently don't they ! LOL
....
Bob.
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 04:58 PM   #12
Bob KellyIII
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Well I gave out trying to kick start that monster and the Kid and I pushed it into the shop to get it out of the Rain !
....went to the DMV and came out $300.00 poorer ! OUCH !
but I got the title coming in the mail registration and a sticker that says 2022 on it ! so I guess it was worth it !
.....
...I got it to pop a few times but that was all...sometimes if feels like the clutch is slipping when trying to kick it through....that thing has fairly good compression in it but it is all the way down before one piston comes to top dead center and that is posising it to the compression stroke before I start...
so I am thinking the clutch is slipping more than a little...lol
Ugh ! I'm pooped !
later !
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 05:38 PM   #13
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I see it's one of those twins that has both pistons at TDC at the same time (360 degree crank). Our 250s have 180 degree cranks and my MT-07 has a 270 degree crank. And I just found a place selling a crank for your engine that's offset by 76 degrees! Of course you'll need cam and ignition changes for that too.

http://www.mapcycle.com/performance-...ee-offset.html
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 06:22 PM   #14
Bob KellyIII
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My Brother in law got a Honda 305 scrambler when I had my Honda 305 dream
the diference in the engines was the crank I am fairly certain the crank on his was 360 deg. and the crank on mine was 180....
and his was 3 times more powerful than mine was... but I got alot better gas mileage ! LOL....
but his machine viberated so bad it cracked the frame, busted mirrors and lost bolts on a daily basis ! and just a 10 minute ride on that thing made your butt hurt ! not to mention your hands going numb... but it would haul ass ! from zero to 70 was just a few seconds where mine gave you time for a cup of coffee
LOL....
the crank lay out really matters for shear Power...no doubt about that !
.....
Hay thank you for those links I've book marked everyone for future reference already ... I'm thinking of some stock looking mufflers for it as those shorty mufflers just as well be straight pipes ! ...in fact they might well be just pipes ! it's far too loud ,but I'll quiet it down even if I have to make my own muffler
LOL.... or get one for a Ferguson tractor for each side ! HAHAHAH

Bob.........
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 07:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
the crank lay out really matters for shear Power...no doubt about that !
Actually it matters very little for power output. The power difference you found was due to other things.

Quote:
I'm thinking of some stock looking mufflers for it...
EMGO makes a lot of aftermarket mufflers that resemble originals but are less expensive.

One example of a retailer, not meant as an endorsement:
https://www.jpcycles.com/triumph-mot...ust-pipes/emgo
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 12:20 AM   #16
Bob KellyIII
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Oh man RATS ! was ready to buy 2 mufflers from them but they said they can't ship to California due to CARB restrictions....
don't that figure ? that was the lowest price I've seen yet too !
oh well.....
Bob....
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 04:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Actually it matters very little for power output. The power difference you found was due to other things.

Yes like duel carbs and duel points as compaired to a single carb and duel points.....I think.... i can't recall at the moment !
....
Well, I just came in from the shop after giving the Triumph a good going over
and theres few things I am not happy with
#1 is the riders foot pegs do NOT fold up.... drag one of those and you may well be in a world of hurt !
#2 the clutch is definately slipping when I try to kick start it and that really makes it hard to start !
#3 it's too loud for my liking even though I only heard it run one time so far
because I can't get the beastie started again....
......
this thing has some sort of fresh air thing on it... that is what the big plastic cap is under the seat... I don't know what it does or even why it's on there
but it's got one !
.....
I pulled the plugs tonight and they are black and they were wet so I flooded the poor girl ! it's got good spark so I cleaned the plugs turned it over several times and tried to start it with less choke.... never even got it to Pop
.....
I will say this... it is really nice to have a center stand on that bike !
LOL.....

.... I gott'a figure out why that clutch is slipping when I try to kick start it, a
full kick and most of the time only one piston goes by TDC..... and that's just wrong ! i expect that the clutch plates are just wore out !
it still moves well, but ya can't start it like that !!!!
I even made sure the clutch cable has a bit of play in it... ( it didn't)
but that didn't help at all....
I pulled in the clutch and kicked it through a few times and the clutch finally broke free and allowed the kick starter to go down without turning the engine over... like it should, but after i did that trying to start it was even worse !
it really wanted to slip then. so I gave up trying to start it and went back to cleaning.... LOL...

the P.O. put in NGK B6ES spark plugs in that bike.... and I have been trying to remember the Numbering sequence of plugs as that is either really Hot or really cold and I suspect Really cold because they were black !
....the manual says Champion N8 if i remember right ! if it's really a HOT plug that means the rings are probably shot ! UGH !
....
later !
Bob.......






....
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 04:53 PM   #18
Bob KellyIII
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Well, I just spent another $500 bucks on the triumph ! OUCH !
but I have a clutch pack coming and 2 mufflers !
and that should be what allows me to get the beastie started and not be so loud.
so that will make the bike usable !
the seat height is 30 inches just a 1/2" taller than the ninja so we're fine there
my concern is making it start easy...but I have a plan !
according to the manual the timing is fairly advanced something like 13 to 15 deg BTDC which can be reduced to around 10deg and that will make it alot easier to start.
I haven't pulled the carbs on it yet as the previous owner said he cleaned them real good and I believe him... he took real good care of this bike and knew what he was doing as well, so I think the carbs are fine.... but knowing carbs I also know they are not as easy to clean as an old tractor carb, so if I have any trouble starting this thing after the clutch is fixed, i'll pull the carbs.
....
at least that is the plan.....
we'll see how it goes when the parts get here ! LOL
.....
Bob......
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 04:57 PM   #19
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Retarding the timing that much will reduce power output noticeably, and also make it run a little hotter.
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 05:09 PM   #20
Bob KellyIII
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Yah I know that... I may not go that much we'll see how it starts...
the bike is useless if I can't start it easy... and being a air cooled 4 stroke
they tend to run Hot anyway... so timing is critical maybe 12 deg would be better LOL.....
it's a 750cc so the loss in top end power will not be noticed by me I don't think
HAHA....
on my old 305 Dream I played around with the timing quite a bit and found it's sweet spot which was more advanced than the spec's called for... the spark advance did not go far enough on it !
.... Did you know you can actually set the timing with a vacuum gauge ?
I did that on a ford Pinto one time then checked it with the timing light and it was spot on ! LOL....
on the Triumph they say static timing and then check it with a timing light
which makes sense !
.....
what worries me is the spark plug numbers is a 6 colder than an 8 in NGK ?
.....
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 05:11 PM   #21
Triple Jim
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Actually the power loss with retarded timing is most noticeable in bottom end and midrange torque.

NGK plugs get colder as the number goes higher, but you probably took 15 seconds to Google that by now.
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 05:23 PM   #22
Bob KellyIII
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lol no i didn't I wouldn't know what to type !
hehehehe
so it is a hotter plug ! AHHHH SO !
and they were black very black ..... the owner said he had to replace both floats in the carbs as the old ones went away.... and that may well be residue from when the carbs were messed up.... I should change them to proper plugs and see what color I get !
....
in my experience retarding the timing just a little doesn't change much
you gott'a go a fairly long way like 5 degrees or more to feel it on a bike
and I'm not going to go that far if I can help it....
but actually I think if I get the bike how it is supposed to be I shouldn't have to do that to begin with, triumphs start 1st kick anyway, and they can be ratted out wore out machines and still start like that. 15 years of sitting has it's toll on a bike and getting her back into working order may take some doing !
.....
at least I don't have to LOWER IT eh ? HAHAHAHAH !
....
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 05:33 PM   #23
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lol no i didn't I wouldn't know what to type !
I think my search string was something like "ngk higher numbers".
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Old October 25th, 2021, 12:06 AM   #24
Bob KellyIII
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Humm ...well I think i found the problem with the clutch in the Triumph 750
.... I pulled the primary chain cover to get to the clutch and discovered that he had 90wt gear oil in it... according to the manual it should be the same engine oil....
I finally got the spring retaining screws off and all the springs are about 1/16" too short
and if there's 1 /125 of an inch left of fiber on those clutch plates I'd be surprised !
there is barely enough to feel with the finger and they look cooked !
so I am thinking I will just replace the clutch plates and metal ones too as they look a bit warn, not bad though... and slap it back together and see if that does the trick
I'll put in the engine oil though, not 90wt gear oil, the older machines did call for 90wt
but this one calls for 20w50 , the same your supposed to run in the motor...
so I'll do dat !
.....
and the manual is quite vague both on the photos as to where things are ( I found several discrepancies ...like drain plug location for the primary case and a few other things.... Reminds me of a Chiltons manual ! LOL
...
I might buy some springs as well... it would be a good idea to replace them while I am at it....
....
Bob........
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Old October 25th, 2021, 05:40 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
.... I pulled the primary chain cover to get to the clutch and discovered that he had 90wt gear oil in it... according to the manual it should be the same engine oil....LOL
You may want to do some research first. SAE90 gear oil has about the same viscosity as SAE40 to 50 engine oil, and the gear oil is better at protecting gears than engine oil. It also works fine with a motorcycle clutch. A lot of old motorcycles came with engine oil in the gearbox, but the current recommendation for them is to use SAE90 gear oil. I have it in my '72 Kaw H2's transmission.

Just make sure you don't use the gear oil made for limited slip differentials because it has friction modifiers you don't need or want in a clutch.
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Old October 25th, 2021, 07:34 AM   #26
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I think manual calls for Mobil GX90, BP SAE 90 EP or Esso 90/140. Which has same viscosity at room temperature as motor-oil. But don't get their functions mixed up. Gear oil is much, much better for gearbox than motor oil.

Gearbox doesn't work on hydrodynamic wedge pressure-film like with engine-bearings and pressurised pump, so gears actually touch each other. Gear-oil has lots more boundary-layer extreme-pressure/extreme-heat additives such as zinc & phosphorous for contact lubrication. Contact area of metals are like two mountain-ridges (one inverted) sliding & grinding against each other. When these tips touch, intense heat & pressure is developed. EP/ET additives melts under such conditions and generates a tough wear-resistant ceramic-like coating at that spot to prevent further wear.

Moly is another lubricant and functions as small ball-bearings between surfaces. Boron is also used to enhance wear protection.

A lot of Triumph owners like Lucas or Red Line synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. Lighter weight might help lubricate output shaft sleeve bearing. If you've got noisy trans due to extra wear from previous motor-oil use, might want to try Red Line's Shockproof line of gear oils, really helped soften whining rear transaxle on my track-car when no other oil could.
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Old October 25th, 2021, 11:55 AM   #27
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Thanks guys ! I appreciate your opinions !
...but here's the problem... the manual says the engine oil MIXES with the Primary chain case at will.... there is supposed to be 3 holes drilled in the case for this to happen.... when I checked the engine oil level it looked like very very thick oil.... much thicker than 20w40 oil, but I could be wrong ...it was quite cold out side....
if the P.O. blocked off those holes gear oil should be no issue....
if not it would contaminate the engine oil.... so that's where I set.
I left the primary cover off and the engine oil has not dribbled out so I am thinking that it can only do that if it's running.... it's a dry sump system and I have never really messed with such an animal before... the OIL in frame
addition to this bike adds more difficulty because it draws from the oil in the frame and then circulates it in the crank, kind'a a strange setup.
.....
but sense I am having clutch slippage issues I think I will go back to ALL 20W40 oil in everything to get it sorted out....
the transition IS seperate from the engine so I can run what ever I want in it.... but the primary chain case is supposed to be connected to the engine oil circulation, barely but it is supposed to be . !
....
I have new clutch plates and metal plates coming and new springs ( standard ones) and I am fairly confident that will cure the issue....
...then I will just have to be sure and eat my Wheaties before I try starting it ! LOL..... it ain't easy to kick through !
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Old October 30th, 2021, 09:36 AM   #28
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Well, I got it fired up but it is running like ****..... one sparkplug doesn't want to fire under 2k RPM.... so more parts !
Man that is a Powerful machine ! it grabs the RPM's quite fast for a 4 stroker
but it is not running smooth.... feels like pre ignition to me so next is check the points and timing....
but I kick started it with no trouble took about 8 kicks and the use of quick start
but it ran !
it won't idle with that plug dieing so I can't really adjust the carbs yet...
I was hoping that the new mufflers would quiet it down alot... all they did was give it a low RUMBLE ! LOL

the new clutch is working great, no slipping at all trying to kick it
I did not put it into gear though .... and no leaks from the primary cover that I could see, so I must'a done something right...HAHAHAHA
....
I expect to find the timing is off.... that would account for the hard starting !
I'll dig out my inductive timing light and have a go at it.
....
later !
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:07 PM   #29
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Well, the ongoing saga of Bobs Triumph 750 just got extended a bit....
this is where the old age of the machine comes into play.
I pulled the left carburetor and in so doing I noticed I had to pull the slide out
fairly hard....it didn't want to just fall out like normal. not good!
and after checking that the carb was clean and indeed the previous owner did clean it real good, I started to re assemble the carb to the bike again, that is where the trouble started.....
the slide did not want to go in..... it would barely start then jam up and not slide any more.... I figure I scratched it getting it out and so I took 220 grit and sanded off the scratches around the slide and in the carb slide area....
I'm still doing that an hour later but it's almost ready to slide in like it should.
over time heating and cooling will make parts warp a very small amount and
that is what has happened to the body of this carburetor, so I am trying to concentrate the sanding there and not on the slide...
it should be that just a light scuffing is all that is needed to make the slide conform and work properly, but on this stubborn Triumph that is not the case
.....
I've yet to check the timing on the beast but it's gott'a be close
it still won't start for me without quickstart, which makes no sense to me...
it should be starting real easy. so I am double checking everything I can think of....
the sparkplugs are BLACK..... that's the main reason I pulled the left carb...
but I have found nothing amiss !....float level looks proper (but no way to be positive)
its got NGK B6ES plugs in it and it calls for Champion N3's (I have 4 champion N3's coming .....)
.....
I started to take the tank off but gave up on that idea, as there is a plate under the tank connecting both sides of the tank for some reason.... ( not stock i don't think) and sure as you bet your grandma's Undies I just know as soon as I pull one of those bolts out I'll have gas pouring out ! so I cleaned up the main tank bolt( very rusty) and put it back together and just took off the carb from the side.
... anyway.... the quest to get it running good continues, I was hoping to take it for a ride today as I finally did get it to idle.... and it cleaned up and ran fairly good... but no way I am going to get that carb back together today as I am tired already ! LOL getting old sucks !
.....
what I went out there to do was drain the oil out of the engine and replace it with20w50.... but I got de-railed by the carb.
right now it is OVER FULL with thick black oil.... probably mineral oil
and I want it out of there !
.... and if I hear rods knocking after I do that...I'll know WHY the previous owner did that !
.... it will be pull the engine time and DO A COMPLETE REBUILD !
....but oddly enough the little running I've done to the bike the oil level has INCREASED.... to the point it wants to run out the fill cap on the frame !
so pulling the plug at the bottom of the frame is next on the list !
.....
later !
Bob.........
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Old November 1st, 2021, 12:38 PM   #30
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I had to order new intake manifold studs for the triumph 750
as the stud on the inside was stripped out... AURGH !
anyway, I had the carb back on and all that but the carb was hot being held tightly by any means so it's time to fix the problem and replace the stripped out studs........
I also ordered the nuts for those studs...would you believe $8.00 for 2 nuts ???
good grief ! but they are a special low profile nut just for mounting these carburetors.....
I also got a electronic ignition kit that replaces the points on the bike
.... so that should really help bring the o'l bike up to the 20th century ! LOL
....
i've been going around the bike trying to find everything that is buggered up
by time and people messing with it and eliminate those things or replace them
and I haven't found that much so far...
the intake studs are a must if it is ever to run correctly again and although
I could probably make a new one on the lathe, it's just too easy to order 4 new ones and be done with it ! their not that expensive.
....
there are a bunch of things you need to know about this bike and a gillion special tools but I will only get the special tools if I have to ! LOL....
( I like making tools ! )
I think I will try my darndest to get it running real good before I add the electronic ignition but that depends on the bike i guess....
....
Bob.....
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Old November 1st, 2021, 04:09 PM   #31
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Which electronic ignition did you get?
I actually built one to replace points-type ignition couple many decades ago.
Would be interesting to see how tech has improved since then.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 06:16 PM   #32
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Howdy Danno ! I got "Triumph Norton BSA Wassell Vape Electronic Ignition Kit 12V PN# TBS-06-1495" thingie.... for $149.95....
and a set of 6V coils to go with it as they must have them
.....
other than that I don't know one kit from another at all.... their supposed to replace the points....that's all I care about ! LOL
...
I got it from "The Bonneville shop" in Colorado. I've been getting alot of stuff from them... most of the prices are reasonable but a few things are ridiculously high.... like exhaust pipes !
....
I checked with J&P cycle but they have a blanket can't send to california on most of their stuff.... very lame !
....
I was going to make up a points eliminator unit for my 305 honda several decades ago but as I got into the advance part of the electronics My Math skills failed me ! and I was reduced to guessing... so I gave up on the whole affair !... what I designed was fairly simple, but when you start getting into the spark advance that gets complicated real fast.... it's easier to buy one that works out of the box ! HAHAHAHA

... I bought a points eliminator thing for a lawnmower for like 12 bucks
one time but I discovered it didn't replace the points at all, it was the points in the little black box that had to be at a certain place outside the flywheel magnet.... it just has a reed switch in it ! plus...it never worked !
....
electronic ignition really caught on like wildfire, back when it was first introduced.... it was cheaper and by far better.... some of them had a tendency to fry, but later versions fixed that ... now nothing uses points at all... even lawn mower engines are pointless now.... LOL
....
according to The Bonneville shop the different brands are pretty much the same and all are bullet proof so I took a wild guess and pulled the trigger on it .... and their on the way.....
....
I got intake studs & nuts
Electronic ignition and Coils
carb flange rings that thread on so the boots won't get tore up
intake gaskets
sparkplugs
TDC indicator tool.
all coming now...
....
I did not get a high altitude jet for each carb, though I probably will soon....because I live at 3941'ASL and that probably part of the BLACK PLUG PROBLEM....
but we'll see how it runs first.
.....
now if I can figure out how to get that gas tank off without loosing all the fuel I'll be good to go ! ( i'm just going to empty the tank using a syphoning hose....LOL)

....
later !
Bob.........
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 11:17 PM   #33
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today I went ahead and ordered a smaller main jet and the needle jet for the triumph.... the Bonneville shop recommends a 180 MJ and this needle jet for high altitude tuning... so I got them for both carbs.
....I looked at the MJ in the carb I have off and it is a 190# and I figured I'd drop the size to 180# anyway... ...then I read what they recommended and I had to just go along with their recommendations.
that should get rid of the rich running condition ( black plugs)
.....
that will be the last thing I order from them in a while as I want to wait to get all the stuff I've ordered , here before I order any more stuff ! LOL....
the electronic ignition is supposed to be here on the 5th so by the end of the week.
but I can't put the carb back on till the studs get here and that will likely be a few days later.
so I expect by the end of next week I'll have it running again enough to take it for a ride... even in the cold !
.....
I haven't decided to wait or not in putting on the electronic ignition kit ...
i may just put it on when it gets here... I dunno yet.
.....I just as well I got the thing half appart now anyway LOL....
...i guess that depends on if I can get the mechanical advance off it or not...
they call for a special tool to get it off ....a slide hammer type thing...
I have 3 slide hammers here so I may have to make up an adapter for one.
....but I can't do any of that without the TDC indicator tool....
....
I hate waiting for parts !
LOL
Bob........
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 01:39 AM   #34
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 03:57 AM   #35
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lol..... yes that would be prudent wouldn't it ! thanks Danno
.....
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Old November 4th, 2021, 11:52 PM   #36
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Well, the carb manifold studs came today as well as the electronic ignition
so I hurried out there and put the carb on after installing the 2 studs that i got.
.... the instilation of the studs went without a hitch I put blue lock-tight on the threads in the head so they shouldn't be coming out with the nuts being removed any more.
everything looks to be sealed up real good and the crb is on there nice and solid.
I found another fix me thing on the Triumph earlier today, the petcock on the left side was not working at all... so i syphoned all the gas out and pulled the tank, and pulled that petcock off and it was full of crud... blocked off completely
so after cleaning it good I put it back on and I will be using that side as the reserve as it has no filter on it at all. I am hoping the other side has a filter on it ! LOL
these carbs have a built in filter on their banjo fitting that attaches to the carb.
but no inline filters at all anywhere, I suppose that is because it would take 4 in line filters to do it... as there are 2 lines from each petcock. lol
anyway I got the urge and put my boots on and went out there and tried to start that beast.... and it was a no go without the use of quickstart !
but with quickstart it fired right up... and i discovered that it was dropping one cylinder at below 2000rpm ..that plug is definitely dead !
at least I hope that is what is causing it <grin>
but it does run again... just not real good at the moment.
I am still waiting for the spark plugs to arrive from Amazon when they get here I expect it to purr like a kitten !
my new jets won't be here till the 8th so in the mean time I think I will install the electronic ignition.... tomorrow !
and get that out of the way.
although I don't have the TDC tool yet it should be here soon...so I may wait
and see if I can get that plug to fire at idle ....
I did try adjusting the fuel/air screw to see if it would pick it up but it wouldn't so I put it back to stock settings of 2.5 turns out
I synchronized the carb slides as best I can do without using a synchronization tool... just by eye ball and they are moving in unison now...they weren't !
... I have not checked the tappet clearance yet the previous owner said he did that recently , but that could be the reason that cylinder is dead at idle...not very likely as it was running at idle before but has just gotten worse... so I think it's the plug.
.... we shall see i guess
Bob..........
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Old November 5th, 2021, 07:49 AM   #37
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Watching progress It will be good to see that this bike is on the road! Having known a couple of Triumph bike people in the past, I sympathize with your efforts. They are truly different machines but made well.

While different from the bikes, my Dad had a couple of their cars back in the day ('60s-'70s I suppose) and he had some odd stories about them. It seems the weak link was Lucas Industries
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Old November 5th, 2021, 12:21 PM   #38
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I was watching Lowbrow customs video on the pazon electronic ignition install again for the 3rd time and there near the end of the video he starts the bike
and it sounds so cool.... it lopes nicely but I think he said it has a new mild cam put in it... if I can get my bike to start and run that nicely I will be quite happy....
....
I have a question that's bugging me .... on the AMIL Carburetor on the Triumph 750. When is the choke on ? the choke is a slide inside the slide of the carb.
a very weird arrangement and logic would tell me that when that slide is all the way down the choke is ON because it blocks off the most air, and that would increase the suction in the carb and suck out more gas... but strangely enough.....
the choke has very little effect at all. ( think that is just the nature of the beast on this animal...)
I have tried several times to start the bike with the slide down to no avail
or all the way UP and there seams to be no difference....
when the bike is running if the choke slides are down it still runs.about the same...up or down... so I deduced that UP slide is OFF and down slide is on... ....
I've seen that many guys simply block off the choke and get rid of it !
probably because it doesn't help starting it anyway !!!!!
...
the previous owner said he would turn it through 2 or 3 times with the choke on and Key off trying to start it.... i've tried this with very little success
.... the only thing that gets this bike running is "Quick Start"
and I hate using that on a bike... but it's better than kicking your guts out on the beast.
I am hoping new plugs will cure that problem. I remember with my Old 305 honda that when one plug was weak it was seriously hard to start.... but it has an electric starter ...this don't !
....
I am trying to decide if I want to put on the electronic ignition unit on it now
with it running so poorly or wait like I SHOULD ...and get it running real good first ! LOL..... on the one hand it might cure half the starting problems
and on the other it might just complicate the getting it running real good easier....
i'm leaning on waiting .... as I don't want to fight this big beast I want to ride it.... HAHAHAHAHA
most of all my parts will be here by wednesday, and it's cloudy and overcast
outside ...and cold too... so waiting on that endeavor is the thing to do I think.
....
getting that thing clean is a major chore ! every rag in the shop is dirty now and...i've only gotten the engine looking clean !
.....it needs to be steam cleaned badly !!!!!!
( the nearest car wash is 25 miles away in Yreka ! )
....
later !
Bob........
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Old November 5th, 2021, 12:55 PM   #39
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Ah HA ! my spark plugs came ! now we shall see if Bob's diagnosis is correct !!!!!
.....
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Old November 5th, 2021, 02:15 PM   #40
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OK so it wasn't all just spark plugs ! Phooie !
....
....
Ok...now I have something more concrete to go on....
it's missing and missing real bad anything below 2500 to 3000 RPM and it runs very rough. mostly rough on the left cylinder but the right one does it as well...
so that points to spark in my mind this has twin points, they look to be recently replaced
but being that it's a Triumph the question is is it actually in TIME or not.....
sense the flywheel only has a mark on it for full advance and no mark for "F" like the jap bikes have...setting the points is alot of guess work at best on this thing.
if everything is working correctly and the points are set to the proper gap it should be close to being in time but it'll never be spot on like that !!!! but that is how you are supposed to do it on this triumph ! ...
.....
I am thinking there could be 2 problems Spark or compression
...after taking the tank off it was obvious to me that the valve tappit clearance hasn't been touched in 20 years ! the dirt was that thick !
on the spark side the points look fresh BUT the spark advance could well be stuck in full advance position and causing the rough idle
... so I have 2 avanews to approach it with... tappet adjust ( which should be checked anyway) ... and if I find nothing amiss there like valves too tight, I will move on to the spark advance unit ....which I have a suspension is the cause of all the problems !
(this bike has 30k miles on it and the spark advance has no oil getting to it so they constantly freeze up ) and I have to take off the spark advance unit to put on the electronic ignition stuff....
.....
as a side note the right sparkplug I just replaced looked dark tan for the first time when I pulled it 30 min ago, the left plug ( the one not firing except after 3k rpm was black and looked wet...)
upon replacing the plugs it fired right up with quickstart and ran for a few seconds on both then the left cylinder dropped when it was at low rpm nearing idle...
( that could be fuel air mixture) but at all times it was struggling to keep running
like the spark was way too far advanced....
so a quick check would be to move the points plate to the most retarded position possible and see if it runs better... if so the spark advance is stuck !
......
this brings me back to the Old D2 cat we had at the ranch as a kid.... it was a bear to start with the hand crank... but if you played your cards right and used quick start it would fire up..... one day I was trying to start it and I pulled off the cap on the magneto to check everything and I noticed I could change the timing fairly easy... so I loosened it up and moved it a little and tried it and it kicked back real hard so I moved it the other way and it fired up the first try.... i inched the magneto back to where it was as close as possible and it still start with one crank session... and from then on it was easy to start ! I showed my Dad what I had done ,mostly not wanting to hurt the cat and he said Yah that's ok leave it like that, it's no good if it won't start ! ...
never touched the inside of that magneto sense and about 25 years later we sold it.
....
this feels like spark advance to me... but why is the left side cylinder dropping so frequently.... lower compression perhaps ? fuel/ air not adjusted right ?
...
I think I have to eliminate possibilities at this point.... I'll do a valve adjustment next
.... and see if I still have my compression tester !
if that goes off without a hitch as I expect it will..... I'll attack the spark advance.
....
so that's the plan !
....
Bob.......
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