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Old November 14th, 2021, 08:37 AM   #81
Bob KellyIII
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LOL...me either ! but at this stage, I'll try anything
....
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Old November 14th, 2021, 08:40 AM   #82
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At least I know what the problem is now... dropping one cylinder at idle
and very hard starting....
...AGAIN....DIRTY CARBURATORS ! ....somebody up there must hate me !
LOL
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Old November 14th, 2021, 09:21 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
At least I know what the problem is now... dropping one cylinder at idle
and very hard starting....
...AGAIN....DIRTY CARBURATORS ! ....somebody up there must hate me !
LOL
Bob.....
Nah we up stair don't hate you we up stair just want you to work for it
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Old November 14th, 2021, 09:39 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
At least I know what the problem is now... dropping one cylinder at idle
and very hard starting....
...AGAIN....DIRTY CARBURATORS ! ....somebody up there must hate me !
LOL
Bob.....
that's with your new carbs???
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Old November 14th, 2021, 09:58 PM   #85
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no the same old carbs Danno , the new ones haven't arrived yet.
....
I tried to start it a bit ago but still the same S@#t ! it fires but will not continue on it's bruumm, brummm, putt. and die.... same as it has been from the start.
....
My clutch is giving me issues again though seams like it wants to pop into gear when I am trying to kick start the silly thing... and that neutral is not as clearly defined as it was... kind 'a strange actually... on this beast I usually pull in the clutch and kick it through several times before the clutch actually release's and then I let go of the clutch lever and try to start it....
some times it will fire up and the kick starter goes down on it's own !
other times I am kicking it and it feels like it locks up but it's just that it is in gear and it's turning the back tire.... very strange behaviour ! so I stop what I'm doing and try to be sure it is in neutral AGAIN... (all the way down and one up....) with the shifter.... and it acts like it does not want to mesh in the transmission... that's why I am thinking the clutch is dragging a bit
which wouldn't surprise me one bit as it is a new clutch !
i am hoping once I get the thing running the clutch will free up a little
....
anyway... I am still waiting on the new carbs....
....
Bob.......
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Old November 15th, 2021, 04:36 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
no the same old carbs Danno , the new ones haven't arrived yet.
....
I tried to start it a bit ago but still the same S@#t ! it fires but will not continue on it's bruumm, brummm, putt. and die.... same as it has been from the start.
....
My clutch is giving me issues again though seams like it wants to pop into gear when I am trying to kick start the silly thing... and that neutral is not as clearly defined as it was... kind 'a strange actually... on this beast I usually pull in the clutch and kick it through several times before the clutch actually release's and then I let go of the clutch lever and try to start it....
some times it will fire up and the kick starter goes down on it's own !
other times I am kicking it and it feels like it locks up but it's just that it is in gear and it's turning the back tire.... very strange behaviour ! so I stop what I'm doing and try to be sure it is in neutral AGAIN... (all the way down and one up....) with the shifter.... and it acts like it does not want to mesh in the transmission... that's why I am thinking the clutch is dragging a bit
which wouldn't surprise me one bit as it is a new clutch !
i am hoping once I get the thing running the clutch will free up a little
....
anyway... I am still waiting on the new carbs....
....
Bob.......
Bob you my want check the clutch basket finger what looking for is evidence of clutch basket notching.
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Old November 15th, 2021, 09:28 AM   #87
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I'm enjoying this read. Include your diagnostic thought process often. I like to hear how other people work through their mechanical and electrical problems
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Old November 15th, 2021, 12:31 PM   #88
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shspvr :
Did that when I had it all apart... the fingers show no notching at all...
actually very little ware at all for so many miles ( over 30K miles)
those are new stock clutch plates and new clutch springs... soaked over night in oil and re assembled the next day.... but obviously it hasn't been ran much and I think it just needs to be broke in and loosened up a bit ...but it is concerning !
although the primary chain and the associated sprockets are showing signs of ware, that can wait a bit.
.....
I've found the secret to getting this beastie to fire is choke on full and tickle the carbs ...if and when it fires for a few seconds, tickle the carbs again and it usually will fart again .... it just will not stay running at idle.
and this is with gasoline , not quick start.
... it's very hard to catch it just right to get it to rev up, but that can be done
I've done that several times and getting the RPM down below 2500 RPM or so
is when it likes to fall on it's face and die....
... I had the idle screws up a long way and it would indeed run on one cylinder and when I had that going on I slapped my hand over the left carb's throat and it picked that cylinder up.... so it's definitely not getting fuel at idle... but... I can't clean that pilot jet.. i've tried every trick I know... so Ducattiman will get them after christmas LOL....
....
later !
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Old November 15th, 2021, 01:13 PM   #89
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heh, heh... have you tried this pilot jet cleaning tool? You can feel when it's rubbing on metal after dried petrol has been removed.

Although most likely it's passages before and after pilot jet that needs cleaning. ducatiman's the wizard! He always finds stuff to fix after people's famous ,"I swear carbs are clean!!!"
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Old November 15th, 2021, 01:55 PM   #90
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Thanks Danno !
I haven't tried it yet..... but I will as I just got one !
$12.00 for a chunk of wire seams silly but it's a hard wire size to find !
....
I Doubt seriously if the area below the pilot jet is plugged because I have checked and double checked that and spreyed carb cleaner in and got carb cleaner out the other holes every time.... humm. it just hit me that that is a blind hole and the only outlet is through the pilot jet.... I can't have gotten carb cleaner out the other holes because there is no other holes.... that other passage is the air for the air screw... not the fuel from the bowl.
so I probably just sprayed into the hole and moved to the next hole !
though I did run a wire into every hole in that carb and found no junk
.....but that does NOT mean it's clean... it means I attempted to clean it.
if your not positive you did every hole...do it again !
.....
You see that's the thing with carb cleaning you need to know what hole does what, so you know if the carb cleaner is supposed to come out that orifice or not... if you go in with half an idea of how the carb works you may well mistaken one hole for the other.... and I think that is what I did...
I think I'll pull that carb again and put it on the bench and give it another thorough going over... just to be certain I have done every aspect of cleaning that carb... and when that wire gets here I'll clean that jet and be done with it !
....
I had to do the SX650 carbs 3 times before I got them right.... why not the Triumphs eh ?
...
thanks Danno !
...
Bob.
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Old November 15th, 2021, 03:50 PM   #91
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Thanks Danno !
I haven't tried it yet..... but I will as I just got one !
$12.00 for a chunk of wire seams silly but it's a hard wire size to find !
A set of electric guitar strings would get you a better variety of sizes at a lower price, especially if you have a Guitar Center near you.
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Old November 15th, 2021, 06:56 PM   #92
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Well Bob KellyIII here's some suggestions for tools
Torch Tip Cleaner Tool
Small Gauge Copper Wire by unraveling the multiple wire strands
Wire Brash one of it strands
K&L Carb Cleaner Wire Set or any other Carb Cleaner with Hard Wire & Nylon Brash set
If have Air Compressor you can used a Air Blow Gun Siphon Sprayer to blow out Carb passage way with solvent just like with spray cans but with more PSI as of many us folk just can't spring for a big 4l ultrasonic cleaner.

But being you ref to your 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc
Have you tried sync the stock AMAL carb as there hey are a royal pain in the rear as it has be been at cable have you have you considered swapping them out to Mikuni Conversion Kits or Keihin Conversion Kits ?.
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Old November 15th, 2021, 08:50 PM   #93
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Well, I have 2 torch tip cleaner tools
a raft of different sized wire hooks I made up hanging on the wall the smallest, almost fit that jet BTW. I tried copper strand of wire although it's small enough it bends way to easily... it won't push out what is in the jet.
tried compressed air 3 times and I bought a carb cleaning brush set a few months ago to work on the ninja carbs ( 2 of them) brush and probe type.
....
Yes the Amal Carbs are a pain in the ass when they don't work but are very reliable when they do and I'ed like to keep the bike as Stock as possible
so I bought newer Amal carbs that have the removable jet...
( they look exactly the same.)
and a set of carb gaskets for each carb.... so all in all I should be all set.
I will have 3 main jet when the new carbs get here as well, 180,190 and 200
and 2 Needle jets all for each carb. so I should be able to get it to purr like a kitten ! and run good at top end as well.
....
I'd have to say having a pressed in jet so you can't remove it is the dumbest move in any carburetor I have seen to date !
even worse than the Holly single barrel's accelerator pump ! ( designed TO LEAK ! and it's very hard to stop it from leaking )
....
Bob...
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Old November 16th, 2021, 12:50 AM   #94
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HAY ! I think I got it !
I went out there and pulled the air screw and dug out the probe set i had bought for the Ninja... ( i haden't tried that on the carb yet) took the smallest wire of the set ( looks like a long torch tip cleaner set) and tried to poke that through the jet at first it was no go but I kept poking at it and it finally went through... I then hit it with the straw on the carb cleaner and then put the screw back in and set then to 2.5 turns out from the stop... I didn't try it because it is so late and I have my slippers on and that is one sure way to get a sore foot !!!! .
but it went through !!!! YAHOO
I also found a video on setting the float level the top of the floats are supposed to be level with the top of the bowl when the needle is closed ... and that is where I set both carbs when I had them apart so that's cool....
now tomorrow when it's light out and not almost midnight , I'll see if I accomplished the task of getting it to idle ! I also set up the idle screws about 1/4 of a turn...
we shall see tomorrow after I bring the wife back from the eye doctor
....it's certainly easier to clean that jet because all you have to do is pull the air screw...it's right behind it.... but it takes the right wire... ( first time I used that tool so far and I love it !) it actually FIT !
....
so... I'll let ya know !
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Old November 16th, 2021, 05:22 AM   #95
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....it's certainly easier to clean that jet because all you have to do is pull the air screw...it's right behind it....
You mean removing the air screw like I mentioned in post #70?
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Old November 16th, 2021, 05:35 AM   #96
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You mean removing the air screw like I mentioned in post #70?
I'm sure BoB is think with us all
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Old November 16th, 2021, 08:10 AM   #97
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Yes and Yes !

and it's definitely a
....
i'll try it this afternoon...
hopefully it will run !
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Old November 16th, 2021, 12:54 PM   #98
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Well, a bit more fiddling is required me thinks....
I went out there and turned the choak on full primed it and turned the key on and gave it a kick and it fired and tried to run for a second then died.... I don't think the idle screws are high enough yet.... when it fired the second time I gave it throttle and it gasped for air and died ... the clasic bogg when you give it throttle thing...
so the needles are way off to the lean side me thinks
I did that for about 15 minutes and got it to fire and stop several times finally I got it to hold it's own for a second and I put my hand over the left carb throat and it picked up....
so it's close but no cigar ! I will mess with the slides and put the needles back to stock setting and probably put the 190 main jets back in it and the stock needle jet, and quit playing with the stupid thing I want it to RUN !
so back to stock everything with the carbs ! I've had enough !
I do think the left carb was trying at idle but I am not positive it did not idle on it though it dropped the left cylinder at idle .... so it still sounds like the jet is plugged even though I finally cleaned the jet.. so the passage to it must be plugged I don't see how but what the heck I'll check it again... like i was going to ...
my new needle clips arrived so I can replace the one that has cracked and doesn't hold on real tight.
right now I am thinking on just waiting till the new carbs arrive and put them on
so I don't have to mess with it anymore....
....
this go around I never did get the engine to take throttle and rev up...
it was like it bogged when I gave it throttle and I've never noticed that before
My experience with bogging when giving it throttle means you shouldn't have moved that needle clip dummy ! lol..... of course it could be that it was just cold....
....
later !
Bob....
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Old November 16th, 2021, 01:27 PM   #99
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HAY ! I think I got it !
I went out there and pulled the air screw and dug out the probe set i had bought for the Ninja... ( i haden't tried that on the carb yet) took the smallest wire of the set ( looks like a long torch tip cleaner set) and tried to poke that through the jet at first it was no go but I kept poking at it and it finally went through...
Heh, heh... just when you think when you've got it all cleaned!!! It's like those Ginsu knife commercials from '80s... "BUT WAIT!!! There's MORE!!!!"

Try working from other end as well. Poke out bleed-holes from carb-venturi. Bend some wire 90-degrees 10mm from end and use that on each of bleed-holes. This was final "Ah HAH" moment on many carbs for me. Saved me from forfeiting an entire race-weekend once.
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Old November 16th, 2021, 03:34 PM   #100
Bob KellyIII
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LOL.... well this is what I discovered.... I am pulling both carbs, but just have both slides out at the moment... checked the needle clips and put them on the middle clip ( their are only 3 notches ) I pulled the left carb..the one that has been giving me trouble.... and took the airscrew out and the O ring crumbled as I took it out ! damm carb cleaner ! I didn't follow it with wd-40 last night and should have ... so all I could find is skinny O rings so I put 2 on it .
and I found that spreying carb cleaner into the airscrew hole gives me alot out the air hole in front of the carb, and a little out the fuel tube to the float bowl.
in other words exactly like it should be, there is no obstruction in that passage way..... i did bend a wire and shove it up there s far as I could but I couldn't go too far as the wire didn't want to go through that 90 degree bend very well
....
..... THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT CARB ! ...that is my conclusion !
so the question is why ain't it working ??????
....bad plug ?
i double checked the float level and it was a bit low so I re set it to where the float is level with the top of the float bowl when the needle valve is closed.
I put the original jets back in the thing not the High altitude stuff.
....
.... and now I will pull the other side and check it in the same manor
but I know it's working but I'll put the original jets back in it to match the other side and give it one more try
I am wondering about that electronic ignition now, could it be sparking fine for a few seconds then stopping ?
( certainly, if the battery couldn't keep up !)
that's not very likely, but it is possible......that would likely mean it's not charging too !
....
I gott'a think on this some more ...that's not right ! it should run fine !
if nothing else IDLE..... but at idle it still drops the left cylinder !
....
I did up the idle screws another 1/4 turn and at first about 2 seconds of fast idle then it died, like it ran out of the prime gas and just died.
....
I'm getting frustrated, so I think I will give it a break for a bit !
....


later all
Bob........
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Old November 16th, 2021, 04:23 PM   #101
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I am wondering about that electronic ignition now, could it be sparking fine for a few seconds then stopping ?
As you probably know, I manufacture electronic ignition units for the Kawasaki triples. I've sold thousands of them in the 12 years I've been doing it. It's amazing how many guys will have a non-running bike and jump to the conclusion that it has to be caused by a faulty ignition unit. So they buy one of mine and it still won't run, so then they ask me how they can test the brand new unit. I try to explain that it was tested twice before I shipped it, but I still get a few guys who ship it back to me so I can test it.

You can get clear plastic in-line spark testers so you can see if it's still sparking when it quits running. If you get two of those you can end your doubts about the new ignition system. One would be enough if you don't mind testing one cylinder at a time. Here's an example, not a recommendation. I have no idea if this is the best price you can find. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-I.../dp/B0002STSC6

Just remember that 90% of carb problems are really electrical problems, and 90% of electrical problems are really carb problems.
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Old November 16th, 2021, 11:35 PM   #102
Bob KellyIII
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LOL Jim ! it better not be 90% or we're all screwed ! but I get the point.
over the years you can get damn accurate on diagnosing problems on the internal combustion engine...as you know and this doesn't feel like electrical to me it feels like carburation !
.... anyway I have the carbs back on now and I discovered that their loose even after snugging them up.... it's those stand off studs ! so I need to find 4- 3/8" lock washers to replace the thin large hole washers that are on it.... then it will snug up like it should....their rubber O ring idea I think sucks which is what it is supposed to have on it.... I ain't doing that ! I want the carbs on there solid !
not able to flex !
I cleaned both carbs again and checked to see how big a hole was in that bushing/ pilot jet and I got to the 3rd size up on the long torch tip cleaner thing I got for the ninja.... why I had to go so small to get through it I don't know
but I am definately through it now ! I have some normal small zinc coated wire
that should have fit but it never did.... and when it finally broke through it felt like gravel... crunching as it went through so it was a rock or something
might'a been rust from the tank, I did see a spot or two in there that look suspisious ! how it got past those filters is anyones guess ! LOL
....
but both idle jets are definitely clear, the original jets are back in as well as the needle jets so it SHOULD work...once I tighten down the carbs better.
the needles are in the middle slot where they are supposed to be as well.
....
the way they designed the intake studs is really silly to me, they put a shoulder on the stud so the nut bottoms out and the pressure of the squeezed O ring is supposed to hold the carb firmly... which obviously it does the job.
to get rid of the O ring takes 2 thick washers then a normal washer for 1/4"
bolts on top of those and the locking nut. all that just to push the carb flange to the manifold. when I got it both carbs were warped because the previous owner really ronched down on those nuts trying to get them tight and then stripped 2 of them.... so I filed the ears flat again replaced the studs that were stripped and got the proper locking nuts for it.
but now my spacing is off just a bit so I have to scrounge up some washers !
I don't want to warp the carbs any more than they are but I do want them on there solidly .
...
if it doesn't start and run like it should now, then I am doing something wrong. but unfortionately I do not expect it to as i found NOTHING WRONG !
....perhaps these old Triumphs are a bitch to get going and warmed up... I don't know...I've never had one before.... they should be a One Kick affair
and start easy once everything is all fine tuned and all ... but so far it is not proving to be that way....
.....
I can get it to fire on gas now, so my starting routine seams to be working
but it's not continuing to run...and it won't idle so I can fine tune it
....once I get the carbs anchored down good I will have to check the synchronization of the slides as this thing is likely to change at the drop of a hat... for some reason putting on the tank changes the carb synchronization
and it shouldn't for any reason and I don't see where it's bending the cables
they are tucked up under it but you have to un tuck them to adjust the sync
a long drawn out process to get it spot on ! kind'a weird !
....
later !
Bob.......
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Old November 17th, 2021, 04:14 PM   #103
Bob KellyIII
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Well, Success, or somewhat of success i guess you'd call it ! but it runs !
.... I put the carbs back on and then the gas tank, made sure the choke was on and remembered to take out the bulb of the tail light. which I did.
2 kicks and she fired up and ran on both cylinders but it wouldn't idle on it's own so I kept the speed about 2000 to 2500 RPM this lasted for a few minutes till I tried to turn off the choke and it just quit.
I really am wondering if that thing is charging up the battery now as it died like I turned off the key !
... it was coughing back through the left carb a few times... dunno what's up with that... sputtered back through the carb not a back fire but a healthy poof
...i figured with the choke on it was getting too much fuel so I tried to manipulate the unattached choke lever to pull those slides within the slides up nd it died..... I did not get very far with taking the choke off btw.
at max just enough to crack them open... and at the same time it was like pulling the plug, it promptly quit.
...
I took the tail light bulb out just to see if it would run longer.... obviously it did..... but it didn't run long enough to evaluate anything it just teased me !
LOL.....
throttle response seamed real good and having it just above idle was a treat
instead of 3k rpm ....
....
I've decided when the new carbs get here in 2 days I will definitely put them on it.... that probably not such a good idea but the motor is still not running right.... and I am hoping that will cure the poor running
but it was Much better running today... but it's still not right.... something is amiss... but I can't put my finger on it.
.... I think by turning up the idle screws it would idle now...not sure ....
it's just too cold on these old bones to be out there too long... LOL
and this is at 2:30 pm the wife said it was the coldest day all week last night and the frost on the TT250's cover attests to that !
Living at 3850'ASL has it's disadvantages ! LOL
.... that's all I got today....
Oh, the Shims came for the Ninja valves nice looking set actually.
I also got a Good digital caliper( some off brand) and new feeler gauge 2 more things I've been needing in the shop !
my plastic caliper works great but finding a battery for it is very hard.
this caliper is made out of stainless steel and seams to be very well made and came with an extra battery.
later all....
....I'm still cold ! AURGH !
Bob....
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Old November 17th, 2021, 04:18 PM   #104
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Put a meter on the battery next time you run the engine and see if the voltage indicates that the battery is charging.
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Old November 17th, 2021, 05:06 PM   #105
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great Idea because my hands are full of just keeping it running....
if my VTOM is already hooked up it should show a charge !....
in fact I think I'll go do that now ! I got all warmed back up ...time to go get cold again ! LOL
I hate winter !
later !
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Old November 17th, 2021, 05:33 PM   #106
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Yahooo ! it Idles now !
and Jim... I have 15.2V charging.... that be a bit high in my book ! something to worry about later....
... I synced the slides real quick , they were off a bit hooked up the meter and primed the carbs.. one kick had it running
I inched up the idle screws just a bit and it held the idle ! WITHOUT dieing !!!!
SO WOOT WOOT YAHOO AND HHHHOT DAMMMM ! it runs !
( with the choke on full I didn't try to take it off !)
....
so success !
I'll put the tail light bulb back in and turn on the headlight for now when I'm running it.... that was a common thing to do when I was a kid to blead off extra voltage ! LOL
now to see if I can get it going without the choke ...as it is warm now !
so back at it !
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Old November 17th, 2021, 05:46 PM   #107
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Sounds like you're making some good progress!
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Old November 17th, 2021, 06:22 PM   #108
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Sometime you should check the voltage again with the headlight and tail light on, at various RPMs.
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Old November 17th, 2021, 06:33 PM   #109
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Yes indeed !
I hooked up the choke lever so I could actually turn the choke off
started it again with one kick and slowly took the choke off after I took the idle down a bit.... it was idling at about 2k RPM a bit fast for my liking...
anyway... i took the choke off and kept it going and it cleared out and started barking when I goosed it ! man that thing grabs the RPM fast ! I am really surprised at that ! I didn't expect anything like that !
it cleared out and started purring fairly nicely not perfect yet but close to it !
when the Ninja is warm it grabs the RPM quite fast but this thing is faster ! by quite a bit..... I've never heard a Triumph grab RPM like that before ! WOW !
.... anyway sense it was idling fast at first it, scooted it's way back toward the door of the shop so I had to move it back into it's spot again where I have about 2 ft per side to work on it !
the secret to starting that bike is tickling the carbs !!!!
.....
Now I have alot of fiddling to do to get the points plate cover back on as the sending unit has a thick plate on it and it doesn't allow the cover to go on tightly.... so I have to trim a bunch of bolts to make it work right ... then I can seal it up for good ! ( i love electronic ignition ! )
... but as soon as I took that choke off she started clearing out and sounding alot better.... Well, it should !!!! RIGHT ?!
here I figured those choke slides didn't do much, but they must do alot of choking when they are in use !
I think it would be a good idea to replace the sparkplugs after this ordeal their probably real close to being fouled !
...
I'll get that point's cover back on and the air boxes and seat and then take it for a ride....
....
earlier today while I was fiddling with the bike the right carb slide stuck in the full open position.... not a good thing at all, the left carb I already took 220 grit sand paper to the slide and barrel of the carb to get it to free up....
looks like I need to do the same to the right side as well....
.....
I didn't run it real long but long enough to see that the left cylinder was soft at idle..... i'll get those air screws set and that should take care of that issue
....
HAHAHA I can't get over at how CRISP that engine sounds it sounds real good..... loud, but good
....
I am hoping I will find the intake valve a bit tight on the left side as that would explain alot to me ! ...no I haven't checked the valves yet the PO. said he did... but looking at the dirt on those covers they haven't been touch in at least a year ! so ....it's time to set the valves !
( i may take it for a short spin first before I tear it down again though!)
....
it's been a knock down drag out battle, but clean living and perseverance prevailed ! HAHAHAHAH !
...
later all !
Bob......
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Old November 17th, 2021, 06:48 PM   #110
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Yes I'll definitely do that Jim I don't want to cook the new battery !
I may be buying a new selenium rectifier and or zener diode
...I already think the blinker relay is toast one side blinks the other side doesn't
( but that could just be wiring !)(both lights come on but no blink) if it blinks on one side it should blink on both !
...
HA HA IT RUNS !!!!
Bob........
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Old November 17th, 2021, 07:46 PM   #111
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I may be buying a new selenium rectifier and or zener diode
You didn't believe me when I said selenium diodes haven't been used for many decades?

If you need a rectifier-regulator, take a look at what Oregon Motorcycle Parts has. They should have something for that bike. If you don't see it listed, contact them.
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Old November 17th, 2021, 10:48 PM   #112
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Bob KellyIII
Be sure to check all your ground connections clean them
Look for any sign of corrosion on the connectors
To check the Zener diode, set a meter to DC Volts and connect it across the battery, start the engine and raise the rpm slowly while watching the meter reading. Volts should rise to about 14.5V~15.3V around 3,000~3,500 rpm then stop at that level, even if the rpm are raised higher, Volts should only drop again when the revs. fall below the aforementioned 3,000~3,500 rpm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
You didn't believe me when I said selenium diodes haven't been used for many decades?

If you need a rectifier-regulator, take a look at what Oregon Motorcycle Parts has. They should have something for that bike. If you don't see it listed, contact them.
It there bottom of the page Model R42a
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Old November 18th, 2021, 01:09 AM   #113
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Quote:
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You didn't believe me when I said selenium diodes haven't been used for many decades?

If you need a rectifier-regulator, take a look at what Oregon Motorcycle Parts has. They should have something for that bike. If you don't see it listed, contact them.
Oh I believed you Sir Honest ! I had just never seen a Zener Diode in use on a motorcycle myself..... but it is a logical progression for Adding over charging protection to a selenium rectifier type bike.... my earlier bikes just had ONLY a selenium rectifier and NO Zener diode at all.... including the ancient 1959 or so Zundapp 200cc 2 stroke that I scattered on the centerstand threw the rod right through the front of that engine ! long stroke 2 cycles do NOT like RPM ! ( lesson learned at that young age!)
....
this Triumph has both a selenium rectifier and a Zener diode BOTH and it's new to me.... even though it is a Classic machine.......
back in the day if your Alternator put out say17volts at cruising RPM there wasn't much you could do about it except start replacing parts... like alternator and selenium rectifier ,battery and wiring...
I had a alternator go Hot on me like that on my 1968 Honda 90 and I replaced the alternator with the other one I had from a parts bike and got it under control.
I've had selenium Rectifiers go out as well, all they are is a stack of diodes
a bridge rectifier with good heat sinks... when they go bad there's no fixing them you just replace them !
my vt700 Honda had a rectifier/regulator go out and I had a no charge situation and it cost $120.00 back then to replace it...( about 20 years ago)
.... the regulator/rectifiers are a better solution by far and now days you can find them fairly cheap !
....but I'd like to keep this bike as stock as possible, on "Reasonable" things essentially... the things that make it Function like points and condenser NEED to be upgraded to me ! .
....
Bob........
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Old November 18th, 2021, 01:22 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
Oh I believed you Sir Honest ! I had just never seen a Zener Diode in use on a motorcycle myself..... but it is a logical progression for Adding over charging protection to a selenium rectifier type bike.... my earlier bikes just had ONLY a selenium rectifier and NO Zener diode at all.... including the ancient 1959 or so Zundapp 200cc 2 stroke that I scattered on the centerstand threw the rod right through the front of that engine ! long stroke 2 cycles do NOT like RPM ! ( lesson learned at that young age!)
....
this Triumph has both a selenium rectifier and a Zener diode BOTH and it's new to me.... even though it is a Classic machine.......
back in the day if your Alternator put out say17volts at cruising RPM there wasn't much you could do about it except start replacing parts... like alternator and selenium rectifier ,battery and wiring...
I had a alternator go Hot on me like that on my 1968 Honda 90 and I replaced the alternator with the other one I had from a parts bike and got it under control.
I've had selenium Rectifiers go out as well, all they are is a stack of diodes
a bridge rectifier with good heat sinks... when they go bad there's no fixing them you just replace them !
my vt700 Honda had a rectifier/regulator go out and I had a no charge situation and it cost $120.00 back then to replace it...( about 20 years ago)
.... the regulator/rectifiers are a better solution by far and now days you can find them fairly cheap !
....but I'd like to keep this bike as stock as possible, on "Reasonable" things essentially... the things that make it Function like points and condenser NEED to be upgraded to me ! .
....
Bob........
P.S. there not called a alternator there called stator as they used permanent magnet where automotive alternators use an electro-magnet.
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Old November 18th, 2021, 01:35 AM   #115
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Thanks for that !.... the manual does tell me how to test it.
but I think it is working as planned. at the moment, the voltage is high at the moment because I had the battery fully charged and everything off that I could turn off ... I even took the automotive style brake light bulb out of the system
so it SHOULD run a little high at the moment !
...
I need to sort the throttle cable and choke cables in their routing as their all messed up criss-crossing and all that and the throttle is not going through the forks like it should be it just dangles down and goes under the tank.
even though there is plenty of room.... the cable itself looks like it's new-ish
and the choke cable has been shortened and the choke lever itself has been moved to under the front of the tank... I think I would like it back on the handle bars where it belongs. LOL.....
....
Bob....
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Old November 18th, 2021, 01:43 AM   #116
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P.S. there not called a alternator there called stator as they used permanent magnet where automotive alternators use an electro-magnet.
LOL.... well what ever their called ! LOL thanks for the correction ! Nomenclature is important.... I always mess it up terribly but I usually get the point across ! LOL
....
Bob...
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Old November 18th, 2021, 10:41 AM   #117
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You're making good progress! Always nice to see a bike brought back to running.
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Old November 18th, 2021, 04:29 PM   #118
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P.S. there not called a alternator there called stator as they used permanent magnet where automotive alternators use an electro-magnet.
The stator is the set of stationary windings on the iron core. The "stat" refers to being stationary. The rotor is the rotating permanent magnet assembly. Together they are most definitely called an alternator.
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Old November 18th, 2021, 05:22 PM   #119
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The stator is the set of stationary windings on the iron core. The "stat" refers to being stationary. The rotor is the rotating permanent magnet assembly. Together they are most definitely called an alternator.
No but in general principle they are the same but in reality they're not the same inter working as a stator are brushless

Stator vs. Alternator: What is the Difference?
When trying to understand the difference between a stator and an alternator, we first need to identify what specifically we are comparing.

Stator vs. Automotive Style Alternator (all-in-one style unit)
A motorcycle stator is a component of the electrical system that, when combined with a rotating magnet, creates AC current. Stators are inside the engine case.

An automotive style alternator is a fully self-contained, externally mounted unit that creates DC current. Another difference between stators and automotive style alternators is the type of magnet uses. Stators use a permanent magnet, and automotive alternators use an electro-magnet.

Stator vs. Motorcycle Alternator
As stated above, a stator is one component of the motorcycle charging systems. Motorcycle alternator refers to a collection of components that includes the stator, but also includes magnets and a rectifier/regulator (devices that convert AC current to DC current and maintain steady output).

you can read here https://www.uti.edu/blog/motorcycle/...ator-vs-stator
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Old November 18th, 2021, 05:52 PM   #120
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What ever ! ....
My my New carbs came.... My wife said You'll get the old carbs working about the time the new carbs arrive.... and how right she was !
.... don't that figure ? I didn't need to buy 2 new carbs anyway....OH well !
The lesson to be learned here is don't let your frustrations force you into making a MONEY decision ! like I did !
.... but I think the old carbs need to be replaced anyway because of their warpage.... so the new carbs are going on now.
.... this will take a while as it's cold in the shop (50 deg at 4:00pm)
I went out there in my T shirt and got the taillight put back together ,it comes on but the brake light switch don't work at all.....
I also got the gas tank off again.... I'll put the new petcocks on it while I have it off and get those fuel filter screens on there to filter the fuel to the new carbs ! ( and the new petcocks match , the old ones didn't)
.... then I'll take off the old carbs and pull the jets out of them and put them in the new carbs... because they came with 200 main jets... I think that will be too much for this altitude.
then when that is done, I will pop the valve covers off and check the valve lash settings... then re assemble the entire thing !
.... so that's the plan and it will likely take me a month to complete that because I can't stay out there very long in the cold !
....
in the process of putting the new carbs in I will re route the throttle cable
and perhaps get a new choke cable to replace the shortened one.
...
LOL I kinda hate to take it all apart again, when I finally got it running...
but i want it ready and done right ... so it's a small price to pay !
....
I will no doubt have issues getting the new carbs tuned to the bike
but it shouldn't be too bad... I think I will try to match the idle screw settings from the old ones to the new ones as that alone was a big part of the problems of getting that bike to Run ! the air screw adjustments will be set to the factory settings to start with, 2.5 turns out and I'll go from there.
....
the throttle twist grip is quite hard to turn... I may take the old springs in the slide and cut off a few turns to make it a bit easier to twist, as it's pretty darn stiff !
.....
later all !
Bob.....
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