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Old November 18th, 2021, 05:54 PM   #121
shspvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
What ever ! ....
My my New carbs came.... My wife said You'll get the old carbs working about the time the new carbs arrive.... and how right she was !
.... don't that figure ? I didn't need to buy 2 new carbs anyway....OH well !
The lesson to be learned here is don't let your frustrations force you into making a MONEY decision ! like I did !
.... but I think the old carbs need to be replaced anyway because of their warpage.... so the new carbs are going on now.
.... this will take a while as it's cold in the shop (50 deg at 4:00pm)
I went out there in my T shirt and got the taillight put back together ,it comes on but the brake light switch don't work at all.....
I also got the gas tank off again.... I'll put the new petcocks on it while I have it off and get those fuel filter screens on there to filter the fuel to the new carbs ! ( and the new petcocks match , the old ones didn't)
.... then I'll take off the old carbs and pull the jets out of them and put them in the new carbs... because they came with 200 main jets... I think that will be too much for this altitude.
then when that is done, I will pop the valve covers off and check the valve lash settings... then re assemble the entire thing !
.... so that's the plan and it will likely take me a month to complete that because I can't stay out there very long in the cold !
....
in the process of putting the new carbs in I will re route the throttle cable
and perhaps get a new choke cable to replace the shortened one.
...
LOL I kinda hate to take it all apart again, when I finally got it running...
but i want it ready and done right ... so it's a small price to pay !
....
I will no doubt have issues getting the new carbs tuned to the bike
but it shouldn't be too bad... I think I will try to match the idle screw settings from the old ones to the new ones as that alone was a big part of the problems of getting that bike to Run ! the air screw adjustments will be set to the factory settings to start with, 2.5 turns out and I'll go from there.
....
the throttle twist grip is quite hard to turn... I may take the old springs in the slide and cut off a few turns to make it a bit easier to twist, as it's pretty darn stiff !
.....
later all !
Bob.....
Things happen even to best of us even us PRO to you know
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Old November 18th, 2021, 06:03 PM   #122
Bob KellyIII
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Originally Posted by CaliGrrl View Post
You're making good progress! Always nice to see a bike brought back to running.
Yes it is I agree ! after it's 15 years of setting it's long past time for the o'l girl to stretch her legs again... I can't wait actually , I always admired these bikes
but I had no idea they were as powerful as this one seems to be. It should be a new fun experience and long overdue ! I'll post some pictures when I get her all back together !
.....
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Old November 19th, 2021, 05:55 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
From your link:

"Motorcycle alternator refers to a collection of components that includes the stator, but also includes magnets and a rectifier/regulator (devices that convert AC current to DC current and maintain steady output)."

The person who wrote this thinks that the rectifier-regulator is part of the alternator. He seems to think this because 1-piece automotive alternators often have the rectifier and regulator built in. The term "alternator" means an electro-mechanical device that generates AC. As I said above, the alternators we're used to have a stator and a rotating magnet structure (known as the "field"). Sometimes the rotating magnet is an electromagnet. Other alternators in other applications sometimes have a stationary field and a rotating "armature" (not "stator" since it's not stationary).

He also doesn't seem to realize that "AC" means "Alternating Current", and "DC" means "direct current", so he uses the term "AC Current" and "DC Current".
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Old November 19th, 2021, 08:00 AM   #124
shspvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
From your link:

"Motorcycle alternator refers to a collection of components that includes the stator, but also includes magnets and a rectifier/regulator (devices that convert AC current to DC current and maintain steady output)."

The person who wrote this thinks that the rectifier-regulator is part of the alternator. He seems to think this because 1-piece automotive alternators often have the rectifier and regulator built in. The term "alternator" means an electro-mechanical device that generates AC. As I said above, the alternators we're used to have a stator and a rotating magnet structure (known as the "field"). Sometimes the rotating magnet is an electromagnet. Other alternators in other applications sometimes have a stationary field and a rotating "armature" (not "stator" since it's not stationary).

He also doesn't seem to realize that "AC" means "Alternating Current", and "DC" means "direct current", so he uses the term "AC Current" and "DC Current".
Like I said the main diff with Motorcycle they are 100% pure brushless where cars, trucks, big rig do still have brush's and field regulator so there it req to have 12v power source to come on and to work unlike motorcycle it will come on soon as the motor is started.
When you order motorcycle parts it is used lee listed under generator and part it self has always been called stator not alternator unless it some odd ball motorcycle you know like Bosshog or something like that.
As matter fact Lawnmower with it changing system also to have stator under the flywheel there some older small engine had external belt driven changing system.
As I have been fixing both car and motorcycle and many other things with engine even diesel for last 40 years now, But today car can drive me crazy
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Old November 19th, 2021, 08:21 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
When you order motorcycle parts it is used lee listed under generator and part it self has always been called stator not alternator...
Yes, because you're just buying the actual stator in that case, not the whole alternator, which would also include the rotating magnet assembly.

From https://www.dictionary.com/browse/stator

stator
[ stey-ter ]
noun
Electricity, Machinery. a portion of a machine that remains fixed with respect to rotating parts, especially the collection of stationary parts in the magnetic circuits of a machine.Compare rotor (def. 1).
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Old November 19th, 2021, 09:04 PM   #126
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Well, today I made alot of progress !
I took the old carbs off and removed their jets ( main jet and needle jet)
and put them on the new carbs simply because the new carbs came with 200 main jets and I wanted 190 in them... I expect I'll have to go to 180 at this altitude but only running it will tell me that.
the needle jets were also bigger so I swapped them out as well.
....
I wrasseled those carb slides but out of 2 falls and a submission I finally Won !!!! putting on those cables is a royal P.I.T.A. to say the least !
but I got them both working the throttle and the choke and their as close to perfect synchronization as I can get them.
....
I pulled the intake tappet cover and checked the valve setting by feel
both were identical and both had around 2 to 4 thow clearance....
I was worried that it might be too tight on the left side but NOPE they were good enough ! I didn't bother checking the exhaust side...
....
I put the new petcocks in the tank and put the reserve on the right side
and the normal Run on the left. ... no leaks were present anywhere
which kind 'a surprised me, so I primed it and gave it 2 kicks and it fired up and promptly died but that was good enough for me...( I had my slippers on )
so it'll run tomorrow I HOPE .... I still have a few things to do like shorten the screws for the points plate,and put the seat back on and check out the wiring for the brake light ....neither brake makes the stop light come on !
..... so I gott'a fix that, and soon !
...
I lost a screw today looked for it for a good 45 min. and finally went in to get my Kid to help find it as it was a bolt for the valve cover...
looked for another 15 to 20 minutes and finally found it behind a board with the dirty side facing up ! ( I was looking for a shinnie bolt ! )
.....
I find it strange how some times you can drop something and it's like it fell into a black hole or into another dimension or something because it is just GONE ! ... about 1 in 10 things I drop does that.... I remember dropping a socket one time hauling my tools back from working on Mom's VW Bug
I saw it go it rolled off the heap of stuff I was carrying... so I noted the place and sense my hands were full went and put the stuff up and immediately went back to that spot to look for it... it was outside in leaves and dirt so having a hard time finding it was reasonable..... I looked and looked and looked again...it was one of my good 6 sided 9/16 sockets shinnie and fresh and I wanted it back !
i expanded my search in a increasing spryl and finally found it about 30 feet from where I actually dropped it.... how it got there I have no idea there was nothing for it to bounce off of except dirt and rocks but that socket tried real hard to get away !!!!! it took me about 2 hrs to find that thing !
yet it was 30 ft away lying in plane sight ! if I had just glanced that way while I was looking I would have seen it I'm sure ! LOL....
...
Anyway.... tomorrow should be very interesting. I plan on taking it for a spin
and see how she preforms... but I have alot to do first before I can do that.
I'll be lucky to get it on the road by noon...
later !
Bob.....
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Old November 20th, 2021, 07:17 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
Well, today I made alot of progress !
I took the old carbs off and removed their jets ( main jet and needle jet)
and put them on the new carbs simply because the new carbs came with 200 main jets and I wanted 190 in them... I expect I'll have to go to 180 at this altitude but only running it will tell me that.
the needle jets were also bigger so I swapped them out as well.
....
I wrasseled those carb slides but out of 2 falls and a submission I finally Won !!!! putting on those cables is a royal P.I.T.A. to say the least !
but I got them both working the throttle and the choke and their as close to perfect synchronization as I can get them.
....
I pulled the intake tappet cover and checked the valve setting by feel
both were identical and both had around 2 to 4 thow clearance....
I was worried that it might be too tight on the left side but NOPE they were good enough ! I didn't bother checking the exhaust side...
....
I put the new petcocks in the tank and put the reserve on the right side
and the normal Run on the left. ... no leaks were present anywhere
which kind 'a surprised me, so I primed it and gave it 2 kicks and it fired up and promptly died but that was good enough for me...( I had my slippers on )
so it'll run tomorrow I HOPE .... I still have a few things to do like shorten the screws for the points plate,and put the seat back on and check out the wiring for the brake light ....neither brake makes the stop light come on !
..... so I gott'a fix that, and soon !
...
I lost a screw today looked for it for a good 45 min. and finally went in to get my Kid to help find it as it was a bolt for the valve cover...
looked for another 15 to 20 minutes and finally found it behind a board with the dirty side facing up ! ( I was looking for a shinnie bolt ! )
.....
I find it strange how some times you can drop something and it's like it fell into a black hole or into another dimension or something because it is just GONE ! ... about 1 in 10 things I drop does that.... I remember dropping a socket one time hauling my tools back from working on Mom's VW Bug
I saw it go it rolled off the heap of stuff I was carrying... so I noted the place and sense my hands were full went and put the stuff up and immediately went back to that spot to look for it... it was outside in leaves and dirt so having a hard time finding it was reasonable..... I looked and looked and looked again...it was one of my good 6 sided 9/16 sockets shinnie and fresh and I wanted it back !
i expanded my search in a increasing spryl and finally found it about 30 feet from where I actually dropped it.... how it got there I have no idea there was nothing for it to bounce off of except dirt and rocks but that socket tried real hard to get away !!!!! it took me about 2 hrs to find that thing !
yet it was 30 ft away lying in plane sight ! if I had just glanced that way while I was looking I would have seen it I'm sure ! LOL....
...
Anyway.... tomorrow should be very interesting. I plan on taking it for a spin
and see how she preforms... but I have alot to do first before I can do that.
I'll be lucky to get it on the road by noon...
later !
Bob.....
Don't have to much fun like me with sanding and prime paint on Ninja 250 fiberglass fairing .
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Old November 20th, 2021, 07:28 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
If you still got points I recommend getting rid them and switch over to electronic ignition conversion.
Read post #46.
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Old November 20th, 2021, 07:38 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Read post #46.
Ops
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Old November 20th, 2021, 11:32 AM   #130
Bob KellyIII
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LOL.... yah I replaced the points after I first got it....
the electronic ignition kit went on easy, and the directions were quite good although it said things like if your engine has a CC turning crank use position A on the stator plate, if it is a C turning crank use position B on the stator...
which set me back for a bit... I have no idea which way the crank turns you idiots ! so I had to kick the engine over and LOOK ... and that's alot of extra work for nothing ! geez ! ....
HEHEHEH . but all kidding aside it went on easy and worked first try with no muss or fuss... I'm quite happy with it !
...
I was concerned for a while weather the battery could keep up with it,as it needs a minimum of 10vdc to spark the plugs, but after seeing the output of the alternator at 15 volts now my concern is cooking the battery ! so ya can't win for the loosing...there's always something to worry about !
...
I think it's warm enough to go out to the shop and get started on that beast
so I guess I'll find out real quick ...it got down to 25 degrees last night here
everything had a deep layer of frost on it this morning so the shop will be cold as hell !
I may not be out there long ! LOL
...later !
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Old November 20th, 2021, 11:33 AM   #131
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Cold as Hell?
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Old November 20th, 2021, 12:15 PM   #132
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Yes ! Viking tradition says Hell is COLD... not Hot ... and sense they lived in a frozen wasteland in the north they should know !!!!
hehehehehehe !
... It's pretty darn cold out there... but I did get the points cover on and water tight....
....
I really don't feel like freezing my A@@ off today so I may well just stay in the house and give the bike a rest ! it's down right Nippy out there !
...
all I have left is the air boxes and the seat and starting it and setting the idle
and it should be good to go.
... my shop is a total mess I have not been picking up my tools like I usually do
because of the cold... in and out of the shop is the fast and warmer rule I have been going by lately !
....I'ed like to get the Triumph out of the shop and cover it with a tarp... and put the Ninja back in there so I can put on the back rack I bought for it ages ago.... ( i still haven't put that thing on YET !)
....
....
i think it might be time to invest in some thermal underware ! LOL
looks like this is going to be a LONG cold winter this year.... be ready !
...
Bob........
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Old November 20th, 2021, 06:05 PM   #133
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maybe get one of these eh?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LHFJSKS
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Old November 20th, 2021, 08:37 PM   #134
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Actually I was thinking about this one...
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...94474371792896
....man that's a long link ! LOL
.....
well I gave up and slept most of the day ! but I did go out there about an hour ago and start the bike....
....I am beginning to think the chokes are redundant and not needed as the tickliers do the best for starting the bike....
....
anyway I started the bike and adjusted down the idle and had a nice perfect low speed idle about 800 RPM and then saw I still had the choke on...
just touched it and it died... took it all the way off and it wouldn't idle at all so I had to re set the idle screws much higher but eventually it did idle ok...
right now it's about 1500RPM at idle which is alot faster than I like but it's not the nice smooth idle I had earlier...
I started it 3 times by not even getting on the bike just standing beside it and hitting the kick starter and it fired up easily...
....
QUESTION for you smart guys... will taking the spark plug off the sparkplug harm the electronic ignition ?... Should I put a spark plug in the spark plug lead and make sure it is grounded, to do the carb airscrew adjustment ?
...I don't remember what vehicle it was that I was trying to find the cylinder that was missing by pulling the sparkplug lead while it was running and the manual said in bold letters do not do that you'll burn out the ignition system !... of all the silly things.... and of course, I read that AFTER the FACT...
but I got lucky and it still had spark but I quit doing that so willy nilly
...some old practices don't fit in this new electronic age !....that is one of them....
pull the spark plug lead and stick your finger in the socket and crank it over was a common practice for me it tells you several things real fast, if it makes your eyes water it's a good strong spark , if it knocks you out, it's exceptionally good ! ...if its so weak that you can stand that all day long and
it wouldn't bother you at all, you have problems if it dribbles the jolt instead of a burst that's when condensers are bad usually... I have a high tolerance for electric shocks... but I've felt some that were truly mean... off the D2 cat we had as a kid it's spark was truly hostile and would make your ears ring... that thing has a magneto on it and it worked very good....
it had to, it was an old hand crank start system on it and it was tough to start some times.
.....
but this Triumph's New electronic ignition may have a sensitive side. so to be safe I will just put another spark plug in the spark plug lead and ground it real good.....it's the grounding that's the problem...LAYING IT ON THE HEAD CAN JUST FALL OFF... it needs to be attached to a good solid ground.
.....
....
...
..
.

I really didn't get much done today....my sleeping schedule is all messed up and I am trying to get it back to being awake in the day instead of asleep...
and it's not working out for me too well ! HAHAHA!
( i am Nocturnal by nature)
...
the Triumph did start easy today though, and I ran it till it was getting very warm... so I really couldn't continue playing with it.
so I took a break and let it cool down.
it's still not idling the best ...those air screws need adjusting real bad
and the idle screws at the same time and that should give me the nice smooth slow idle I am after I like 500 to 800 RPM on a big twin...lower than that and they have a tendency to bog on throttle .
I think I'll go mess with brake switches now....
later !
Bob.........
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Old November 21st, 2021, 06:48 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
QUESTION for you smart guys... will taking the spark plug off the sparkplug harm the electronic ignition ?... Should I put a spark plug in the spark plug lead and make sure it is grounded, to do the carb airscrew adjustment ?
It's always a good idea to connect the lead to a spark plug and lay the plug on the head or something to ground it. Just disconnecting the lead can cause very high voltages that can damage the coil.
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Old November 21st, 2021, 07:32 AM   #136
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Thanks Jim !
I had resigned to put a sparkplug in the spark plug lead and then ground the plug with an alligator clip test lead...to the head that way when I kick it , it won't loose contact ! I'll probably have to destroy a test lead clip to do that but it will become a single purpose test lead ! LOL

.....
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Old November 21st, 2021, 07:47 AM   #137
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I perf the Mr. Heater Portable Propane Forced Air Heater why there fast and if when our pipe freeze over no need call a plumber hehe and I used one small ele heater to keep it warm the rest of time soon as big one gets does its job
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Old November 21st, 2021, 06:13 PM   #138
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I did this once already and left expecting it to still be here.... OOPs !
....
SUCCESS ! it Runs and starts easy !
I took the triumph for a short spin of about 8 miles
I discovered several things that need to be fixed.
the Rear brake don't work worth a darn...I think there is air in the line.
turn signals don't flash ( got a flasher coming)
rear stop light don't work ( got a new switch coming)
low headlight beam don't work...
and I have a small oil leak ( i think it's from the valve cover I had off)
....
the main problem I was having is because the manual was WRONG....
it calls for the airscrews to be at 2.5 turns out, the new carbs came with them at 1.5 turns out... so I set them at 2.5 like the manual said...
while fussing with it for about 15 minutes I decided to try the 1.5 setting and it imediately cleared out and ran better i could get the idle down low enough to actually adjust the air screws then and they changed the rpm noticably so I could actually set them correctly... and then she started purring like a big kitten ! ....I put the bike back together enough so I could take her for a spin .
and then did so....
it handles better than a Honda but not as good as the Ninja !
it has great power, that puppy will get up and haul A$$ if you want it to !
it has 5 speeds and I got it up to 70 mph on a straight streach by Lake Shastina. it was taching around 3.5k I think maybe a bit higher in rpm
... but obviously not trying hard at all to reach 70mph.
I had the wife take a few pictures for you guys....too !
here they are. I hope my Ugly mug don't scare anyone too bad !LOL
....
Bob.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Triumph 750 RUNNING !!!.jpg (172.4 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Bob and Triumph 01.jpg (152.7 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Bob and Triumph 02.jpg (122.9 KB, 11 views)
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Old November 21st, 2021, 07:15 PM   #139
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HA HA ! I went out there to put the Triumph in the back yard
and got on it, turned on the fuel, touched the ticklers on each carb for just a half second. ( the engine was stone cold) gave it one kick and it fired right up.
no choke at all,....put it in 1st and manipulated it through the narrow gate as the mirrors will hit , and rode it into the back yard !
.... that's how it should start ! I am happy as a cow in deep clover !
that is one good motorcycle ! it is proving to be all I hoped it would be....
it's an old one, but it's a goodern ! HAHAHAHA !
....
Bob......
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Old November 21st, 2021, 07:22 PM   #140
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Old November 21st, 2021, 07:57 PM   #141
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Good work, Bob! And thanks to you and your wife for the nice photos.
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 07:48 AM   #142
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Bob KellyIII Woohoo!!! as The Beatles would say With A Little Help From My (Ninjette) Friends
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 08:56 AM   #143
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This is a great way to start my Monday! I love seeing a bike get back on the road after solving all the puzzles, Triumphs are good for that (and aptly named if you ask me )
Ride on Bob! Happy Thanksgiving
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 10:27 AM   #144
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Your stuff to fix doesn't sound too bad at this point, and yay for being back on the road!
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 05:49 PM   #145
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Thanks everyone !
the list of needed repairs is small and parts are on the way
for the winker relay and stop light switch.
the oil leak will take the longest to repair as I have to remove the gas tank...
which on this thing consists on one nut and 2 gas line fittings and pull it off !
the seat is just 2 bolts of the henge.
what I am worried about is the electric part of the stop light... should be no problem... but I don't think the switch is getting any power... that's WHY it doesn't work and that can be a mess tracing the problem on these bikes
but I do have a wiring diagram.. so I should be good !
....I remember spending many hours tracing the rat's nest of wires under the headlight on several bikes as everything electrical went up to the headlight
they don't do that anymore thank God but they did back then usually it's just one of them came un plugged is all.
. it's 4:48 and the sun is already down and getting dark fast !
if I am going to get that Triumph in the shop before dark I better hurry !
...later all
Bob........
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 06:39 PM   #146
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Here's a sweet tidbit for ya ! .... I went out there, swept the shop. kicked the tools still on the floor to the side and opened the door as wide as it would go
... then went to the bike sitting there all day in the cold...
turned on the gas tickled each carburetor turned on the key and tried to kick it... but it was in gear , DUH ! ....found neutral after breaking the clutch loose
and gave her a big kick and "Brummm" she fired right up and was running like a top ! .... man I love that ! rode it into the shop and put it on it's CENTERSTAND ! turned the gas off as soon as I turned the key off.
usually I like to turn the gas off first, but this girl needs fuel to the top to start easy so I have to change my habits !
....
LOL Man I am getting to love that bike more and more... she sounds so cool !
and at 404 lbs it will do everything my 1100 Honda shadow would except give you a hernia picking it up ! that 1100 Honda weighed over 800 lbs !
.... this Old bike is just perfect for me ! ....
.... now where is that KLR ??? the guy informed me it would be after the holidays now as he needed to save money for christmas presents for his 2 boys and wife... and I understand that... I offered to pay the DMV charges ,just to get this over with but he hasn't replied.. he doesn't check his email often ! unfortunately !!!
....
I guess we wait and see...
....
I sure like the way that Triumph started today,.... no hesitation at all !
....
My Pilot jet tool came today as well as 2 Amal carb rebuild/gasket kits
so I am all set for the duration now. those will go in the box marked Triumph parts and be stored in the shop
....
My shop is quickly becoming a Bike shop and not a machine shop.... I NEED MORE ROOM !!!!! HAHAHAHAHA
....
Bob.....
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 07:50 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
and at 404 lbs it will do everything my 1100 Honda shadow would except give you a hernia picking it up ! that 1100 Honda weighed over 800 lbs !
Well, your Bonneville weighs that if you have no gas and oil in it, but that's still light for a 750 of that era. An 1100 shadow is a bit over 600, not 800.

It's good to read about your successes with the Triumph. I hope to hear about your many rides in the future!
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Old November 22nd, 2021, 11:40 PM   #148
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strange, I read that the 1100cc honda shadow I had weighed over 800lbs.
like 835.lbs or something like that... it was all I could do in the prime of my life to get that thing off the ground when it fell over ! and I was a strong fella at the time.... I couldn't begin to lift one now...
but that's not really important actually.... it's possible that it was just 600lbs and it's higher COG is the reason it was so heavy to get up !
this Triumph has a very low COG and that makes it alot easier to get the rubber side down ! ....
... I think I will go out there and see if I can find the cause of the rear brake light not working....
.... you really do need that on a street bike !
lol....
on my first ride on that thing I only used the brakes 3 times and had to rely on the front brake to stop.... that's not a good thing, so that is a priority to me right now....
for years I rode without even touching the front brake ...but I know better now.... that front brake is our friend !!!!
.... I can stop quite fast on the Ninja.... fast enough that you really gott'a be watching your rear view mirrors like a hawk !
...
Hay Jim I've been wondering where you get parts for your H2 750 ? that has got to be a tough thing to get pistons or bearings for anymore eh?
....
later all
Bob......
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Old November 23rd, 2021, 02:45 AM   #149
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Well, I THINK i have that small oil leak taken care of....
I took off the tappet cover on the intake side and cleaned off all the RTV silicone that was on it and used my copper coat gasket sealant on both surfaces and put it back on... the bolts are newer hex head bolts that hold it on and they are rather short so I didn't want to put a gasket on there, I'm fairly sure that will seal it up...even if getting that cover off after a few hundred miles may well be a P.I.T.A. ...as it don't like to seperate very easily without a gasket in there...
( been there, done that, before with a clutch cover !)....
i'll probably kick myself for doing that later on, but we'll see !

I didn't get around to messing with the electrics ...that's next.
....
Bob.....
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Old November 23rd, 2021, 05:56 AM   #150
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Hay Jim I've been wondering where you get parts for your H2 750 ? that has got to be a tough thing to get pistons or bearings for anymore eh?
There are enough triples still around that parts are available. There are a few like the ignition pickups that you have to hunt for on the used market, but most things are either still available, like bearings, or are being reproduced, like pistons by Wossner and Wiseco.

I just had my transmission and engine bottom end apart for the first time a couple years ago and didn't have any trouble getting the parts I needed to replace all the replaceable stuff like seals, bearings, shims, circlips, etc. And there are a couple good crankshaft rebuilders here in the US, so that was easy to get done too.

We grumble and shake fingers at guys who part out old motorcycles, but if it weren't for them, things like transmission gears would be very expensive from the custom gear cutters.
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Old November 23rd, 2021, 09:11 AM   #151
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We grumble and shake fingers at guys who part out old motorcycles, but if it weren't for them, things like transmission gears would be very expensive from the custom gear cutters.
Thank goodness for the parts-pullers. I think most folk are blind to just how many trashed bikes are available to pull parts from. It may be tough finding a nice Ninja 250 now on Craigslist, but there are TONS of them rotting away in junkyards and parts should be plentiful. That's the most efficient form of recycling too: we need to use what we have.
Oh, and I believe my old Shadow 1100 was 573lbs by the spec sheet. Admittedly, it felt like 800lbs some days and only had the horsepower for maybe half that weight.
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Old November 23rd, 2021, 11:44 AM   #152
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Check out this episode of "Throttle Out" https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10026100/

Junkyard with +9000 bikes! Really wanted to go see the place. But it burned down couple years before I moved out to AZ.... Bob's Cycle Salvage in Phoenix ended up with some of remaining useable stuff, mostly CBs and RDs.

http://minibikehacks.blogspot.com/20...y-largest.html


Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.


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Old November 23rd, 2021, 08:02 PM   #153
Bob KellyIII
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geez talk about an un orginized MESS ! I hope they have a map of where the
certain bikes are at ! LOL....
....
welp, the Winker relay came today I plugged it in and turned it on and it flashes both sides independantly like it should so a $9.00 part from Amazon cured that problem... it's also compatible with LED's if I want to swap them out later.
so that's cool.
...
the brake switch in the rear is giving me trouble though...
I have 12 volts on each leg of the switch ! which doesn't seem right at all...
the white wire should have power and the switch should complete the circuit to the green wire.... but the green wire is already Hot... and it makes no sense at all to me !......
obviously that is why it's not working but why is the green wire hot with the switch out of the circuit ? ...it can't do that !
so I'll be attacking that next... the new switch from the Bonneville shop should be here saturday... and the manual says there is a brake light switch in the front..... NO there isn't ! there isn't even provisions for one !
i really hate manuals that are wrong in several places it makes you 2nd guess yourself and wonder if that's actually correct ! ( i am wishy-washy enough as it is, I don't need help ! )
.....
I suppose I could be getting a return voltage from the tail light bulb but it would have to be 1/2 and 1/2 in the plug in for the bulb... but that wouldn't surprise me at all. it was a bear to get in there. it did not want to turn in either position I put it in at but I finally did get it to click in ...... ( i had to push very hard to get it in there then twist ) and that's scarry for your fingers.....
if the bulb brakes, you bleed ! been there done that before !
....
But... the turn signals work now !.... so one step forward !
....
excuse me while I go study that small wiring diagram again... for the 5th time ! LOL
....
later all
Bob........
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Old November 24th, 2021, 05:40 AM   #154
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You really need to learn to do a search, Bob. I used the search phrase "1977 triumph bonneville 750 front brake switch". If this doesn't answer your questions, there were many other results.

https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/r...40v-78.651113/
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Old November 24th, 2021, 07:04 AM   #155
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Me and search engines never did get along ! I have gotten so many zero results on searches that it isn't funny... I think what I call stuff isn't the proper or used name by most people and it's out side the scope of the search that normally is used for it.... I don't really know... my programming days are over now and this new web language is greek to me... so I let the programs do it
their better at it than I am anyway LOL
....
thanks Jim...
....
Bob......
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Old November 24th, 2021, 07:18 AM   #156
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And Yah ! Jim.... I think the switch is in the center of the lever, in a hole.... haven't messed with the front brake switch yet as I am working on the back one ...
... ( i was expecting to find one on the front wheel disk setup but nothing there at all .... )
....

cold here this morning, 27 degrees it says ! burrrrrr.
....

later !
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Old November 24th, 2021, 07:49 PM   #157
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I am still completely confuzed as to how and why both plug ins to the back brake light switch have 12VDC going to them....
it's my understanding from studying the wireing diagram that the white wire should be "hot" and the brown one should be grounded through the bulb.
so when the switch is turned on the power goes through the switch and to the brown wire lighting the bulb....
....
My work time on the bike got cut down a bit last night as I took the time to attack the little electric heater in the shop... I got it working better , but it now has no knock-over protection as I had to remove it to get to the thermostat...
( yes it's time to replace it!)
....
I pulled the headlight to find the plug in to the headlight bulb real loose and iffy.... at best but I did manage to get both high and low beams to work by the handle bar switch... I however doubt it will stay like that... the plug in is a new plug but it is toast already ..and needs to be replaced again. the clips are weak.
I found 2 wires not connected to anything in the headlight...
and it looks like the previous owner has been in there repairing stuff. with good connections ( crimp type ) and nothing is exposed so it can ground.
...
I made the mistake and left my VTOM in the shop a few nights ago and it got too cold... now my 12v battery is showing 12.89v... so it is no longer accurate.
which is a major bummer !
...
I guess the thing to do now is trace the stop light bulb power back to the battery and try and find out WHY the brown wire has power in it when it shouldn't....
....
later !
Bob........
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Old November 24th, 2021, 08:29 PM   #158
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I am still completely confuzed as to how and why both plug ins to the back brake light switch have 12VDC going to them....
it's my understanding from studying the wireing diagram that the white wire should be "hot" and the brown one should be grounded through the bulb.
so when the switch is turned on the power goes through the switch and to the brown wire lighting the bulb....
....
My work time on the bike got cut down a bit last night as I took the time to attack the little electric heater in the shop... I got it working better , but it now has no knock-over protection as I had to remove it to get to the thermostat...
( yes it's time to replace it!)
....
I pulled the headlight to find the plug in to the headlight bulb real loose and iffy.... at best but I did manage to get both high and low beams to work by the handle bar switch... I however doubt it will stay like that... the plug in is a new plug but it is toast already ..and needs to be replaced again. the clips are weak.
I found 2 wires not connected to anything in the headlight...
and it looks like the previous owner has been in there repairing stuff. with good connections ( crimp type ) and nothing is exposed so it can ground.

...
I made the mistake and left my VTOM in the shop a few nights ago and it got too cold... now my 12v battery is showing 12.89v... so it is no longer accurate.
which is a major bummer !
...
I guess the thing to do now is trace the stop light bulb power back to the battery and try and find out WHY the brown wire has power in it when it shouldn't....
....
later !
Bob........
One should be the running light and always on with motorcycle it should have ground and one with no 0 reading in tell the one of brake switch is activated the sent power to light.

The White Wire Hot In and Brown Wire Hot Out from front switch
The Brown should be going to Rear switch attached 2nd Brown continues onto the stop light bulb and red is ground
2 White wire are attached Flasher one attached key switch the other gose to brake rear brake switch there should Light Green/Brown wire that go to left/ rigth signal
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Old November 24th, 2021, 09:14 PM   #159
Bob KellyIII
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Exactly !.... and the front brake light switch is stuck in the ON position sending power down the brown wire making it hot all the time too....
so what I thought was the tail light was the brake light on all the time....
I disconnected the front brake light switch and then shorted across the
rear brake lite switches terminals and the light came on like it should... so we're good to go, all I need is the switch. and that should be here in a couple of days....
I squeezed the headlight terminal connectors together and made them tighter
as well and now everything electrical works as it should except the front brake light switch....but I think that will be one that stays that way.
it's a switch that is notorious for failing anyway... even after market switches fail ...it's just a bad design .
....
I used my hot air gun to warm up the stiff wires in the headlight and man that HF. heat gun works real good I am impressed with it !
....
somewhere along the line I bought a HF brake bleed kit but I can't seem to find it .... I know I have it somewhere.... but where ?
....I want to bleed the rear brake and get it working properly... it has air in it... ( it was completely empty when I brought the bike home.)
...
so other than bleeding the rear brake system and the rear brake switch we are almost ready to roll....
( once I re assemble it that is...)
...
so a bit more success... today...
...
it's right at freezing out there right now but having that shop heater working helped a great deal... i am still cold but not near as bad as I was yesterday !
LOL.....
...
later !
Bob.....
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Old November 24th, 2021, 09:34 PM   #160
shspvr
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One way around that is look for Banjo Bolt Brake Light Pressure Switch or Lucas Master Cylinder Brake Switch 34619
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