No Circuit

[Guaire]

I went to start my 2001 today. I turned the key. There is zero electrics any where. No lights. Nothing. Fuses are ok. Battery is over 12v. The battery took the charge from my N O C O charger.
I disconnected the clutch switch, sprayed it. No change. Any suggestions on how to find out the cause of this total electrical wipe out?

[Triple Jim]

Measure the battery voltage while you turn the key to the on position to see if it maintains its voltage.

[InvisiBill]

Did you check the 30A Main fuse on the starter solenoid? All power out of the battery runs through that first.

The safety switches only affect the starter circuit. It will act like the kill switch is turned off and the starter button will be dead, but everything else will work as normal.

[Guaire]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Measure the battery voltage while you turn the key to the on position to see if it maintains its voltage.

Triple Jim - With key on, 64 millivolts. Key of 12.81 Volts.

InvisiBill - I checked the fuses first. The 30 amp and the rest of them are good.

I had put in a LED tail lamp bulb. I had no circuit. I put back in an incandescent, made no change.
Fortunately, I have a decent VOM meter and a Pilot Power Probe III.
https://www.powerprobe.com/na/en/pro...t/308EbfcE6f63

I pulled the clutch switch. Sprayed the contacts. No change.

There’s an SAE connector on the battery terminals for charging. Its fuse is ok.
So, I have a whopping voltage collapse with the key on.
???

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by Guaire

Triple Jim - With key on, 64 millivolts. Key of 12.81 Volts.

dead battery

as test, jumpstart it with known good auto battery. That actually starts car. Leave car off, we're just borrowing its battery.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=368961
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74813
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61661
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=113945

[Guaire]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

dead battery

as test, jumpstart it with known good auto battery. That actually starts car. Leave car off, we're just borrowing its battery.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=368961
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74813
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61661
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=113945

BINGO! Book it, Danno!
I have a 12v shop battery from a Yamaha. It's a lead/acid I pulled. I put it in circuit and everything got back to normal. What a relief!
My nearest shop is Coleman PowerSports in Falls Church, VA. I'll pick up the newly charged YUASA in mere moments.
Thank you, Danno, and others.... for getting me and my Ninja 250 'yowling' again!!!!
Cheers,
Bill G.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Guaire

Triple Jim - With key on, 64 millivolts. Key of 12.81 Volts.

The key here is that the battery voltage drops to near zero under load, indicating a failed battery. This assumes you measured the voltage on the actual battery terminals. If you measured it on the connectors on the ends of the battery cables, you may just have bad connections, so cleaning the terminals would fix it.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by Guaire

BINGO! Book it, Danno!
I have a 12v shop battery from a Yamaha. It's a lead/acid I pulled. I put it in circuit and everything got back to normal. What a relief!
My nearest shop is Coleman PowerSports in Falls Church, VA. I'll pick up the newly charged YUASA in mere moments.
Thank you, Danno, and others.... for getting me and my Ninja 250 'yowling' again!!!!
Cheers,
Bill G.

Heh, heh... I used to live in Falls Church, VA. Then Alexandria.

Is it just me, or are lead/acid batteries lower-quality now than ever? I once got 10-yrs from an OEM Yuasa. Haven't heard of anyone getting that much life out of one in forever! Been on lithium-iron for past 10-yrs on all my bikes.

[Guaire]

Heh, heh... I used to live in Falls Church, VA. Then Alexandria.

Been on lithium-iron for past 10-yrs on all my bikes.

I had a Honda VTR250 on a Shorai. That's been a few years. I got the new Yuasa for a great price. My shop battery is a Yuasa, lead/acid, new a few years ago on a Yamaha Vision 550. I was not going to use it. But I kept it and replaced with a Yuasa.
I installed the battery today. Did a little bit of a ride in west Arlington and east Falls Church. More people and more cars than Danny probably saw a few years ago.
The Ninja ninjette felt as good as ever. It came with a Ninja 500 rear shock!
Next time I get a chance I'll shoot a pic with the NEW Nelson-Rigg bags!
Thanks for the clear, on the button help.
Bill G.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by Guaire

It came with a Ninja 500 rear shock!

FYI, the stock spring on that shock is REALLY soft. About 2/3 of the stock PreGen spring rate. The only real improvement on it over any other small Ninja shock is that it has the threaded spring collar, to allow for very precise preload adjustment (and easier spring removal).

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, pre-gen 250 '88-07 shock is common upgrade for EX500 bikes. Those bikes were wet-noodles compared to any Ninja 250. Best to get '08+ new-gen shock and linkage with higher-leverage ratios. Ends up about +50% stiffer than pre-gen and 75% stiffer than EX500 shock. Kawi wised up with new-gen and realised that average size of Americans isn't same 122-lbs as Japanese. From A Shocking Tale! thread.