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Old April 10th, 2022, 07:28 PM   #8481
Bob KellyIII
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I started the COLD ninja finally and drove it into the shop .... it's supposed to snow tonight ! AURGH ! it was 80 degrees 3 days ago !
.... crazy weather !
.....
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Old January 12th, 2023, 01:48 PM   #8482
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I just got this far.. I ended up putting the tail that matches the other fairings I put in the led rear tails, rear led turn signals.

Waiting for the flexible magnet to come in to fish my wrench out of the timing chain side Ordered the hardware to get the upper cowling stay installed but I will be wiring in the H4 connector on the bike.
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Old January 12th, 2023, 03:22 PM   #8483
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Old January 12th, 2023, 03:45 PM   #8484
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At one time I had a flexable extending magnet.... i have no idea what happened to that thing....haven't seen it in several years.... it probably melted in the ranch fire.
... but now I have just two magnets on rods that extend one is fairly strong and as big around as my little finger so it can get into most places, the other one is smaller but not as strong....
I had to take off the outside bearing cap again so I could get a straight ish shot with the magnet to go down in the chain tunnel to get the socket I dropped it wasn't too easy to get it down that far as the cam chain was in the way.... but I did finally get attached to it and it held it nicely.... so I carefully extracted it being real careful to not knock it off again.......
I remember taking the magnet off the handle one time to attach it to a piece of doubled bailing wire so I could fish a washer out of a valve valley on a v-8 I was working on one time.... so that does work as well... but I would be real careful about putting a magnet on a wire and doing that as the magnet will stick real solidly on the gears down in the bottom of the tunnel.... it needs to be attached very good to your
wire... like a hook around the magnet and taped on real good.... because if that magnet comes off the wire you'll have to take off the clutch side plate to get the magnet back out !.
I had 2 pair of finger grabbers as well... I know they both melted in the ranch fire
but they were as good as a magnet some times in retrieving lost nuts and pieces inside things. even a cheap pair is better than nothing... the problem with those is you have to be able to see the item to pull it out... and many times you can't so a magnet is usually better... a strong magnet and not some 1/2" yellow square one I bought one of those and wound up destroying it as it was just too big to fit in holes it takes a small round
long magnet in most cases capable of lifting a heavy object....
....
Having the right tool for the Job is essential in most cases and this is no different.
...I've seen cheap magnets that I would be real reluctant on putting down inside an engine for fear of them braking at the first twist....if that happens you really have problems compounded now.....
my bigger extending magnet just pivots on the end of a extending teliscoping rod.
it got the socket out in about 3 trys.... it dropped it once and it fell down further and
all I could see was it's end.... but I finally got it out.... it was touch and go for a while though !
......
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Old January 12th, 2023, 04:29 PM   #8485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
At one time I had a flexable extending magnet.... i have no idea what happened to that thing....haven't seen it in several years.... it probably melted in the ranch fire.
... but now I have just two magnets on rods that extend one is fairly strong and as big around as my little finger so it can get into most places, the other one is smaller but not as strong....
I had to take off the outside bearing cap again so I could get a straight ish shot with the magnet to go down in the chain tunnel to get the socket I dropped it wasn't too easy to get it down that far as the cam chain was in the way.... but I did finally get attached to it and it held it nicely.... so I carefully extracted it being real careful to not knock it off again.......
I remember taking the magnet off the handle one time to attach it to a piece of doubled bailing wire so I could fish a washer out of a valve valley on a v-8 I was working on one time.... so that does work as well... but I would be real careful about putting a magnet on a wire and doing that as the magnet will stick real solidly on the gears down in the bottom of the tunnel.... it needs to be attached very good to your
wire... like a hook around the magnet and taped on real good.... because if that magnet comes off the wire you'll have to take off the clutch side plate to get the magnet back out !.
I had 2 pair of finger grabbers as well... I know they both melted in the ranch fire
but they were as good as a magnet some times in retrieving lost nuts and pieces inside things. even a cheap pair is better than nothing... the problem with those is you have to be able to see the item to pull it out... and many times you can't so a magnet is usually better... a strong magnet and not some 1/2" yellow square one I bought one of those and wound up destroying it as it was just too big to fit in holes it takes a small round
long magnet in most cases capable of lifting a heavy object....
....
Having the right tool for the Job is essential in most cases and this is no different.
...I've seen cheap magnets that I would be real reluctant on putting down inside an engine for fear of them braking at the first twist....if that happens you really have problems compounded now.....
my bigger extending magnet just pivots on the end of a extending teliscoping rod.
it got the socket out in about 3 trys.... it dropped it once and it fell down further and
all I could see was it's end.... but I finally got it out.... it was touch and go for a while though !
......
Bob......
I ended up getting these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

It was my fault It was a small 10 mm multi-socket set and because it was kinda in the way I decided to take it off and what's when it just fell right in... a lot of not so nice words were said.

I ordered a high off-set 10mm wrench but even then I'm not too sure how the exhaust adjustments can be done with the lobes in the way.. I only had two left to do anyways.
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Old January 12th, 2023, 05:39 PM   #8486
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Mike, I could have sworn that was a 9mm, but maybe I'm not remembering correctly. I used a 1/4"-drive deepwell socket to do mine and it worked. I had to search around for that one, a local Auto Zone wound up having a set for cheap.
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Old January 12th, 2023, 07:11 PM   #8487
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LOL yah your lucky.... I have to pull the cams off completely to do my valves
but they are a very powerful little bike... kind'a makes it worth all that B.S. HAHAHAHAH
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Old January 12th, 2023, 08:13 PM   #8488
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You're right, Bob, I've been realizing that. It's hard to beat the older engine between the two, and I like the 16" wheels. I really dug my wife's '09 Ninja and I rode it a lot, but this '05 works in the canyons. I don't care to mess with it.
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Old January 12th, 2023, 10:28 PM   #8489
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yah the one thing the ninja's do is handle well ! ... it's definitely not a laid back cruiser machine and it's hard for me to get into the sitting-swing-of-things
every time I get on it .... but it works very well
.....
I still got a long way to go to get my 2012 all back together again and it's kind'a hard to believe I had to dismantle it so frigging far just to do a valve adjustment.... it's like what the heck were they thinking ? but I guess they weren't really..... it's not like they gave ANY consideration about the owner doing anything on the bike.... it says in the manual take it to your dealer ! I guess that is their answer !
.....
last year when I was riding the Ninja I started pushing it a tiny amount in the corners and I felt the ass tuck in under the bike like the old W1 650 used to do
( BSA knock off by Kawasaki) and that was the first bike in decades that did that ! .... most bikes handle like refrigerators with wheels on them or at least that has been my experience anyway.... like the Honda Shadow 1100cc I had
it handled about as good as a Cadillac or old pontiac.... not a bike
it likes straight lines but not something with alot of twisties in it....
I could no more push that bike fast in the twisties than any bike I had owned ! that just was not it's thing !.... it's thing was the long haul and it could do that with ease....... loosing it to the Ranch fire really hurt too.... but I will never replace that big pig ! it was way too heavy to be practical ! ....
I told myself if I could not pick up a bike from laying down ...I would not ride it.... and I made myself that promise many decades ago ! and that bike was border line..... and my RX4 is also Borderline..... ....but it wasn't supposed to be ! it's only 450cc how can it be as heavy as the 1100cc Honda shadow?
it's all about weight distribution !!!! the RX4's weight is High on the COG
and the weight of the Honda 1100cc's weight was low and alot more, almost double the weight in fact.....
when I fill the gas tank on the RX4 I can tell the weight is really high on it !
..... but I did notice that the RX4 when it's set up just right can and will tuck it's ass under you on a sharp corner..... it does handle very well now if I could just reduce it's weight by 100 lbs I'ed be happy ! HAHAHAHA
.....
for many years almost every bike being sold had a incredibly small gas tank.
and I suppose that is why all of a sudden there were after marker gas tanks that became available....they were really expensive though...now their price has come down but for a while they were sky high !
.... I'm wondering if I could get one of those 20ltr gas tanks for the DR650
and some how mount it on the RX4 how much of a weight savings would there be..... I would guess about 50 lbs ! (that tank, even when empty is heavy!)..... but then on the other hand it is like trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear....it just ain't happening !
.....
sometimes it's just better and easier to get another bike from the get go !
......
Bob..........
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Old January 13th, 2023, 02:58 AM   #8490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Mike, I could have sworn that was a 9mm, but maybe I'm not remembering correctly. I used a 1/4"-drive deepwell socket to do mine and it worked. I had to search around for that one, a local Auto Zone wound up having a set for cheap.
Crap 9mm lol Now I noticed I ordered the wrong size lol, hey what was that post that you put those diodes on the back of the gauge cluster for the turn signals?
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Old January 13th, 2023, 08:25 AM   #8491
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InvisiBill pretty much covers it with this post. There are other threads on it if you search a bit; mine was by no means a how-to. I just showed a photo of the back of the gauge which may be helpful:
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old January 13th, 2023, 08:54 AM   #8492
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Mike I tried to find the one I used but couldn't...sorry but it does look like the same information that I used to do mine... I had replaced the winker relay and then had to add 2 diodes and ground the one lead on the spedo and everything worked as it should !
.... I went down to the 2012 ninja section and then near the top Alex has put a directory of all mods on the site ! I got so busy looking at all that and forgot what I was looking for HAHAHAHAH ! man there is a bunch of information there
... so give that a look there is several LED mods down there !
.....
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Old January 13th, 2023, 09:25 AM   #8493
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Thanks guys I was more so wondering what happens what to the grey wire
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Old January 13th, 2023, 09:44 AM   #8494
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Thanks guys I was more so wondering what happens what to the grey wire
Grey goes to one side of the diode kit (one of the red wires).
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Old January 13th, 2023, 09:50 AM   #8495
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Grey goes to one side of the diode kit (one of the red wires).
It looks like you used the black/yellow on the temp gauge for ground?
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Old January 13th, 2023, 10:03 AM   #8496
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It looks like you used the black/yellow on the temp gauge for ground?
Yes, I just loosened the eyelet on that black/yel and slid the cut end of the grey wire under it for ground.
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Old January 13th, 2023, 10:08 AM   #8497
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Yes, I just loosened the eyelet on that black/yel and slid the cut end of the grey wire under it for ground.
Ok I thought so lol
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Old January 14th, 2023, 02:12 PM   #8498
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Yay valves are done however the idle is still not steady if left alone it will shoot up to around 3k I’m wondering if the cables need to be lubed? If I close the throttle even then I can get it around 1500 but then it slowly creeps up to a little over 2500 rpms.

I think the throttle is binding somewhat it’s not 100% fully returning The high idle with me closing the throttle is the idle screw I backed it off two turns I can get it to idle at 1500 but I have to hold the throttle close just letting it go is enough to send it over 2k

What a nice high of 34 F today ugh

Oh yeah the part that fell into the motor

Wired in diode
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Old January 14th, 2023, 08:13 PM   #8499
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that sounds like the choke circuit is slowly being activated to me... like maybe the cable is too tight or not lubed up well or routed wrong and pulling on them inadvertently.... just cracking the choke will do that on my bike but I have to move the choke lever a good 1/2" to do that. if your choke is taking effect from the very start of moving the choke lever it is probably just adjusted too tight.
..........
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Old January 14th, 2023, 08:32 PM   #8500
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synch?
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Old January 14th, 2023, 10:39 PM   #8501
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My money is on the engine sucking air between the airbox and carbs.
Either way, it's carbs
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Old January 15th, 2023, 03:28 AM   #8502
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Quote:
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that sounds like the choke circuit is slowly being activated to me... like maybe the cable is too tight or not lubed up well or routed wrong and pulling on them inadvertently.... just cracking the choke will do that on my bike but I have to move the choke lever a good 1/2" to do that. if your choke is taking effect from the very start of moving the choke lever it is probably just adjusted too tight.
..........
Bob.........
You might be right about this I never asked but how hard is it to move? I have to put in a decent amount to move it it’s enough to worry at one point will this break?
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Old January 15th, 2023, 04:38 AM   #8503
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synch?
Not yet because the valves were so out of adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
My money is on the engine sucking air between the airbox and carbs.
Either way, it's carbs
I think it’s the throttle tbh.. it has enough play that it will jump from 1500 to 3k..

Now mind you when I did this before all of the valve adjustments it would kill the bike. I’m going to lube the cables but I will say that bar end mirror bracket was causing it to rub on the throttle.

I’m really thinking about changing the grips at one point but is it really that much a pain with the throttle cables?

Here is a video with the flush mount led turn signals and rear leds

https://youtu.be/OjaXXq4qiUA


Here is the video with with the high idle

https://youtu.be/VWEOeJdLX1I
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Old January 15th, 2023, 05:19 AM   #8504
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Uhmm this is odd.. so I was going to get the bracket on the bike today so something told me check the fit.. it’s not fitting right, the fairing stay bracket is from an ‘05 ex250

What’s going on here?
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Old January 15th, 2023, 06:11 AM   #8505
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My guess is the bracket is bent.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 06:21 AM   #8506
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My guess is the bracket is bent.
If it was bent then the headlight mounting points won't line up.. laying it on the floor it's level.

Ugh not the morning to start off with
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Old January 15th, 2023, 06:25 AM   #8507
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The ears that go to the instruments can be bent without the main frame being bent.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 07:02 AM   #8508
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The ears that go to the instruments can be bent without the main frame being bent.
I see what your saying but that's if it was just a little.. its off by a good amount it's worse if say you put the two mounting studs on the speedo side first.

I wonder if this is how all these gauge housings ended up with snapped off plastic.

I'll still bring it to check and before I bend anything I'm going to triple check it

The more I check it looks like the side with the two mount points is bent.. but it's tricky it looks not bent for sure it's not the single mount point since you for sure would have to bend one side of the whole bracket down.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 07:49 AM   #8509
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Nothing that a little bit of hammer action couldn’t fix
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Old January 15th, 2023, 09:36 AM   #8510
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Re the throttle/choke: I've developed an odd warm up procedure to eliminate cable bind. I start the bike on full choke on the center stand, back off the choke gradually and immediately while tipping the bike off the front wheel. With the front wheel up, I turn the bars right and left. This inevitably loosenes the choke cable and drops it down a bit.
That may help you locate the problem.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 10:15 AM   #8511
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It sound like you need to lube the cable, Drew.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 10:18 AM   #8512
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Almost certainly! That choke cable is somewhat chewed up from a checkered past. I think it needs replacing at this point. Throttle cables too tbh.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 03:30 PM   #8513
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MikeCL : Do you know why the numbers are printed RED on the tachometer ?
that is to keep from blowing up the engine because of over revving
in other words your not supposed to Rev the motor into the RED ZONE on the tach. when the Motor it revving up so fast that it flutters on top RPM
your risking scattering the engine !
Yes I know you hear all kinds of guys doing that on Youtube, their idiots ok !
....
when the rev limiter is kicking in and making the engine flutter at WOT it's the bike's last ditch effort not to destroy itself...
....
in the 2 years I've had my 2012 I have never revved it so high as to reach the red line. ..... Brake that bad habbit or you will be walking...
yah it sounds cool, but it will destroy the engine !
.....
.... I have no doubt I will be Chided for that statement ! by guys on here that routinely Over Reve their bikes and have been doing it for ages and got away with it so far.... but is it worth the Risk ?
....
For the bar-end mirror just take a knife and trim off 1/8" of the rubber on the end of the grip or just move the whole throttle grip in towards the tripple tree a bit. there should be no drag from the grip itself anywhere
....

I think Gordon ( Ducattiman ) is right it sounds like it's out of Sync to me.
Buy some thick vinyl 1/4" hose and make yourself a carburetor synchronizer
with some 1/8" hose on the ends so you can attach to the intake
and Sync those carbs ! but I could be wrong on that...
.....
just my 2 cents ...for what it's worth.
....
Bob.......
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Old January 15th, 2023, 04:29 PM   #8514
MikeCL
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We hit a high of 39 today lol feels a lot better than 32!

Ok so got the bracket mounted with the gauge and headlight after that I took off the grip on the left side and put the perch from the new gen 250 while at it lubed up the choke cable and the slide on the carb.. wow what a total difference!

The throttle was a little tricky maybe I should of stuck with the motion pro v3 cable lube since last min I changed to the clamp type.. I did as best as I could but right away you can see the binding is gone and when the throttle is closed it snaps close on the idle adjustment screw.

Idle no longer goes up on its own.. I rode the bike around (starting in first gear sucks) felt good but the Cush drive is pretty sloppy

Soon it will be time to tackle the chain and tires
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Old January 15th, 2023, 04:34 PM   #8515
MikeCL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Re the throttle/choke: I've developed an odd warm up procedure to eliminate cable bind. I start the bike on full choke on the center stand, back off the choke gradually and immediately while tipping the bike off the front wheel. With the front wheel up, I turn the bars right and left. This inevitably loosenes the choke cable and drops it down a bit.
That may help you locate the problem.
It was two points it would bind a bit which was the carb the part that slides left and right and the cable itself. Turning the handlebar didn’t have any effect.

It’s so much better to have much finer control over the choke lol
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Old January 15th, 2023, 05:18 PM   #8516
MikeCL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
MikeCL : Do you know why the numbers are printed RED on the tachometer ?
that is to keep from blowing up the engine because of over revving
in other words your not supposed to Rev the motor into the RED ZONE on the tach. when the Motor it revving up so fast that it flutters on top RPM
your risking scattering the engine !
Yes I know you hear all kinds of guys doing that on Youtube, their idiots ok !
....
when the rev limiter is kicking in and making the engine flutter at WOT it's the bike's last ditch effort not to destroy itself...
....
in the 2 years I've had my 2012 I have never revved it so high as to reach the red line. ..... Brake that bad habbit or you will be walking...
yah it sounds cool, but it will destroy the engine !
.....
.... I have no doubt I will be Chided for that statement ! by guys on here that routinely Over Reve their bikes and have been doing it for ages and got away with it so far.... but is it worth the Risk ?
....
For the bar-end mirror just take a knife and trim off 1/8" of the rubber on the end of the grip or just move the whole throttle grip in towards the tripple tree a bit. there should be no drag from the grip itself anywhere
....

I think Gordon ( Ducattiman ) is right it sounds like it's out of Sync to me.
Buy some thick vinyl 1/4" hose and make yourself a carburetor synchronizer
with some 1/8" hose on the ends so you can attach to the intake
and Sync those carbs ! but I could be wrong on that...
.....
just my 2 cents ...for what it's worth.
....
Bob.......
My understanding is it cuts the spark to the first cylinder last time I did so I had it cut in around 12.5k I think from what I saw in ninj250.org my model should be 14.5? Nevertheless between the mouse nest with a pound of tissue (I replaced the air filter) and oiled it and got the valves in spec not too shocked it reached it with no effort.

The carb sync will probably be before the weekend it’s pretty hard to work in the cold lol.
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Old January 15th, 2023, 06:35 PM   #8517
Bob KellyIII
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What I listen for on a 2 cylinder is one cylinder popping harder than the other
and usually that is fairly easy to hear with a 2 into 1 exhaust.... not so easy with duel pipes...
usually it's so close you cannot hear any difference and your only left with intuition....or feel you can feel it when it's idling or under acceleration if the syncronation is off a long way.... but once it is close it get's real hard to tell.
....
Keep after it and you'll get it eventually !
.....
Bob.....
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Old January 15th, 2023, 06:36 PM   #8518
thedrewski86
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Nice! Glad to hear you got a snappy throttle, that is key.
Keep knocking the cobwebs out of the bike and it'll be ready well before Spring. I sure don't miss temps in the 30s, that hurts.
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Old January 16th, 2023, 01:56 AM   #8519
MikeCL
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Finally the stuff uploaded

Led turn signals with the diode in place and led flash relay it’s non adjustable but it’s pretty good

https://youtu.be/Y1geC6snsdw

Throttle after lubed up
https://youtu.be/Y1geC6snsdw

Bike idling I killed the bike by bumping into the choke while trying to turn the high beam on lol that’s how much easier it is to
Move
https://youtu.be/iMSx_jDFWKY
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Old January 16th, 2023, 08:46 AM   #8520
Bob KellyIII
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that's odd.... the choke lever direction on your bike is reversed compared with mine.... I push Up to turn on the choke.....down to turn it off
.... maybe because mine is a newer model... a 2012 maybe the older model
is reversed...i don't know.... these guys would know though
maybe that is part of the problem LOL
...
Bob....
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