knocking sound

[cuong-nutz]

Well there you have it. Switch back to 10w-40 and it should disappear.

[kittyslasher]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Well there you have it. Switch back to 10w-40 and it should disappear.

I live in southern California gets way to hot for 10-40

[ninja250r81]

oil weight would not have anything to do with the noise.

maybe he cam chain has premature wear and has a bit to much slack.

change back to 10w weight full synthetic good oil and pay for it.

in the mean time look for a low km 2nd hand engine

[kittyslasher]

Originally Posted by ninja250r81

oil weight would not have anything to do with the noise.

maybe he cam chain has premature wear and has a bit to much slack.

change back to 10w weight full synthetic good oil and pay for it.

in the mean time look for a low km 2nd hand engine

I have 15-50 full synthetic maxuma oil in it now
shop is wanting to try 20-50 yamalube i guess.
As for the engine why should i get a new one it only has 5300 miles mine can't be shot already :/

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by ninja250r81

oil weight would not have anything to do with the noise.

Really? My thought would be the heavier oil is just taking a bit longer to move up to the cams when the bike is cold, hence the knocking only when the bike is first started.

@kitty, does the bike make the same noise if the bike is started again after it has been warmed up and ridden?

[kittyslasher]

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

Really? My thought would be the heavier oil is just taking a bit longer to move up to the cams when the bike is cold, hence the knocking only when the bike is first started.

@kitty, does the bike make the same noise if the bike is started again after it has been warmed up and ridden?

No it doesn't if i shut the bike off and then immediately refire the engine it sounds good. its only if i let it sit for 5-10 minutes the dealer its at now is kinda retarded so that's why im asking here even tho they said its the CTT they said its because its a hydraulic CTT and its building pressure that and their so called kawi specialist confused my bike for a 300 -_-

[cuong-nutz]

@Alex, please merge mr kitty's threads.

Listened to the video from your other thread. doesn't sound good. Sounds like dry clacking. Tired at the moment so can't fully dx over the pc.

Are you sure you put in the correct amount of oil and checked the oil level with the bike upright and not on it's stand?

[kittyslasher]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

@Alex, please merge mr kitty's threads.

Listened to the video from your other thread. doesn't sound good. Sounds like dry clacking. Tired at the moment so can't fully dx over the pc.

Are you sure you put in the correct amount of oil and checked the oil level with the bike upright and not on it's stand?

Positive man and the dealership says its fine sounds normal. Hell I even had them look at tge oil they said oil level is fine.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by kittyslasher

....15-50 maximus oil kawasaki oil oil filter (live in socal)
Last oil change 1100 miles ago

Exactly which Maxima 15w-50?
They make a couple of different ones. Maxima RS is not recommended for street use.

Changing oil brand and grade is an easy way to see if in fact, your oil is the culprit. In some bikes 20w-50 can make the bike work harder which can make the engine temp increase. However the 100 degree temps you ride in may deem it necessary to run a xxW-50. Some oils even (XXw-50) can shear down to the next lower weight under extreme conditions. Maxima 4 Ultra 5w-50 has been tested and confirmed to shear down. The 15w-50 may do a little better. (IDK)

Your CCT is not hydraulic no matter what the mechanic says. It can be adjusted manually and it should not take more than a few seconds for your oil pressure to reach optimum PSI. (approx 21-25 max), not 30 seconds to a minute.

I run 20w-50 with an oil coolerhttp://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=98376 and never had a knocking problem. Currently I have over 23k miles

Being that you are jetted with pods, there is a small possibility you could be running a little leaner than normal (closer to 14.7:1 AFR) or way too rich. depends on how and when the dealer jetted your bike.

Also keep in mind, a bike's performance will be affected by extreme hi temps as well as low ones. Given your location, you're below sea level so your jetting could be a factor as well as a few other things;

Carbon built up in combustion chamber (being too rich)

Fuel poor quality or incorrect (you use 91 octane/not needed)

Spark plug incorrect

IC ignitor trouble (currently an issue)

So there you have a few more things to consider.

[kittyslasher]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Exactly which Maxima 15w-50?
They make a couple of different ones. Maxima RS is not recommended for street use.

Changing oil brand and grade is an easy way to see if in fact, your oil is the culprit. In some bikes 20w-50 can make the bike work harder which can make the engine temp increase. However the 100 degree temps you ride in may deem it necessary to run a xxW-50. Some oils even (XXw-50) can shear down to the next lower weight under extreme conditions. Maxima 4 Ultra 5w-50 has been tested and confirmed to shear down. The 15w-50 may do a little better. (IDK)

Your CCT is not hydraulic no matter what the mechanic says. It can be adjusted manually and it should not take more than a few seconds for your oil pressure to reach optimum PSI. (approx 21-25 max), not 30 seconds to a minute.

I run 20w-50 with an oil coolerhttp://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=98376 and never had a knocking problem. Currently I have over 23k miles

Being that you are jetted with pods, there is a small possibility you could be running a little leaner than normal (closer to 14.7:1 AFR) or way too rich. depends on how and when the dealer jetted your bike.

Also keep in mind, a bike's performance will be affected by extreme hi temps as well as low ones. Given your location, you're below sea level so your jetting could be a factor as well as a few other things;

Carbon built up in combustion chamber (being too rich)

Fuel poor quality or incorrect (you use 91 octane/not needed)

Spark plug incorrect

IC ignitor trouble (currently an issue)

So there you have a few more things to consider.

So you guys don't think its cams being bad on the bike? a rebuild isn't necessary? I think ill try an oil change have the shop do it since my bike is there and then go from there. The current oil i am using is ( http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Extra-Oil.aspx) Fuel i get from cheveron but ill switch to 87 and when i get the bike back ill post a new video where there isn't wind, when i filmed there was some noise being caused by the wind

[kittyslasher]

Okay here is an updated better sounding video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5er...e_gdata_player

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by kittyslasher

Okay here is an updated better sounding video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5er...e_gdata_player

The slight tapping is there although I don't now if the bike is warm or cold. I don not believe it is a cam problem because it's inconsistent, however there are some adjustments that can be made. Even inspecting and replacing your sparks properly can reveal a few things. Since your problem started with a oil change, reverse what you did and try another brand and weight.

Like I mentioned before Even though you are not due yet for a valve adjustment, I'd take the bike in to some other dealer, have them do the valve and cam chain adjustment and inspect the Tach and IC Ignitor since it is still under warranty. At least this way, they can inspect, see and fix anything that maybe wrong underneath the valve cover and get you a good tune. Other than that, you will continue chasing a problem and getting no results.