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Old June 24th, 2013, 04:52 PM   #1
tsdexter
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Motor leak?

Thought I should ask about this before I did the oil change... This was after cleaning the entire underside of the motor then it sat for 2-3 days and remained clean, then I rode for about 10 minutes and I got this...

How should I go about diagnosing and fixing this?



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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:13 PM   #2
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there is a rubber o ring if you take that cover off (use like a 50c coin or something and some pliers) if you drain the oil out, then remove that cap, you can replace the o-ring inside and it should fix the leak
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
there is a rubber o ring if you take that cover off (use like a 50c coin or something and some pliers) if you drain the oil out, then remove that cap, you can replace the o-ring inside and it should fix the leak
OK. Anything I should be wary of in there? Or can I just unscrew it put a new oring in and screw it back on?

Any chance you know the size or should I go straight to dealer... It's safe to just screw it back on hand tight...can't imagine how I would torque that..

Lastly, I can only do this while the oil is drained, correct?
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:24 PM   #4
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Lean the bike against something on the right side. No need to drain. To torque: use toonie and your fingers till it's finger snug. Then a little bit more so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Part #: 671B2540
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indr View Post
Lean the bike against something on the right side. No need to drain. To torque: use toonie and your fingers till it's finger snug. Then a little bit more so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Part #: 671B2540
u must be canadian


change the oring, take 5 mins
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indr View Post
Lean the bike against something on the right side. No need to drain. To torque: use toonie and your fingers till it's finger snug. Then a little bit more so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Part #: 671B2540
the oil leaking out of that thing looks disgusting. it should be changed.
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indr View Post
Lean the bike against something on the right side. No need to drain. To torque: use toonie and your fingers till it's finger snug. Then a little bit more so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Part #: 671B2540
Good thing I too am Canadian and have a stack of toonies kicking around.. Thanks for the part number.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
the oil leaking out of that thing looks disgusting. it should be changed.
I think the disgusting part is from road dirt mixing with the oil. I am doing an oil change anyway though.

In the past 2 days ill have done SS braided front brake line, EBC HH pads, fresh brake fluid in rear, spark plugs, oil change, coolant, fix front fork leak and now this... Here's hoping she runs great afterwards..
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsdexter View Post
Good thing I too am Canadian and have a stack of toonies kicking around.. Thanks for the part number.



I think the disgusting part is from road dirt mixing with the oil. I am doing an oil change anyway though.

In the past 2 days ill have done SS braided front brake line, EBC HH pads, fresh brake fluid in rear, spark plugs, oil change, coolant, fix front fork leak and now this... Here's hoping she runs great afterwards..
dont forget the fluid in your rear brake too. rear brakes go neglected often and if it gets bad enough can lead to bad things. like a melted rear brake caliper
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Old June 24th, 2013, 05:54 PM   #9
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dont forget the fluid in your rear brake too. rear brakes go neglected often and if it gets bad enough can lead to bad things. like a melted rear brake caliper
Yup, I listed fresh fluid in rear. Stuck with rubber line though and pads, surprisingly, look brand new - meanwhile fronts were worn pretty much to the metal (oops).

Would you recommend draining the rear fluid and then new or just bleeding until all the old is out while topping up with new?
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Old June 24th, 2013, 09:00 PM   #10
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The latter of the two
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Old June 25th, 2013, 06:39 PM   #11
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If the O-Ring looks good, you can use just a touch'e of high-temp silicone around the upper portion of the threads of this inspection hole cap. No need to go crazy with the silicone.

[Fyi : Race orgs mandate it]
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