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Old May 2nd, 2012, 01:04 PM   #1
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Do new gen clip ons fit pregen bikes??

Do new gen clip ons fit pregen bikes?? Im trying to find somewhere i can get some clip ons for the 07 without spending too much.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 01:11 PM   #2
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No.
new is 37mm old is 36mm.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 03:19 PM   #3
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Damn.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 04:16 PM   #4
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/37mm-CNC-Han...item3f169bfd1b

Would these work? It says that they are 37mm, but that they should fit an 05 to 11 year 250s??
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 06:45 PM   #5
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37mm is 37mm. You need 36mm. Those will NOT work.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 07:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono View Post
37mm is 37mm. You need 36mm. Those will NOT work.
Could probably shim them with the same stuff that CajunTLR used for the SV650 clip-on on a new-gen 250R DIY.

Chris: I sold my SV650 clip ons a few days ago.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 07:10 PM   #7
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You could. But why not just buy the correct size? TO save a few bucks?


THen you mights as well buy from China. http://www.aliexpress.com/store/2050...Handlebar.html lol
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 07:19 PM   #8
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Whatever you get, make sure they have some risers on them so they clear the tank when turned to the lock.

Just get the Woodcraft lowered risers. They have no movement related clearance issues, and allow the front of the bike to be dropped about 5mm
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 06:59 AM   #9
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So, would you guys go with the China ones @Jono suggested for $60 shipped:

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/2050...Handlebar.html

Or go with the stock ones for $70 shipped:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/produ...d-parts-handle


Which do you guys think would be a better choice?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:27 AM   #10
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You're going to have clearance issues with the tank and fairing if you buy the universal ones.

If you're getting real clipons, you'll need some with some rise on them because you won't clear the tank if you don't. aka, you'll bump the horn and starter or crush thumbs when you go lock-to-lock

Read this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I%27d_l..._about_clipons
and compare the pictures to products on this page:
http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin...&category=OOOX

You'll likely need 36mm clip-ons with either 1" or 1.5" rise, at which point, just buy the WC lowered risers. The only advantage to the clip-ons is that the front can be dropped further, but that can be remedied by raising the tail.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:34 AM   #11
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Ehh, i think ill go with the stock ones then. Im really tryinh to find the cheapest way since im not keeping the bike. Just trying to get it ridable you know?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:36 AM   #12
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yeah, go with stock.

I would offer you my stock bars, but I can't seem to get the screws out from when I took the bar ends off to install the WC bars. I just drilled the head off the screws and went from there. Not to mention, they're my extras in case I go down and need temporary replacement bars.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
yeah, go with stock.

I would offer you my stock bars, but I can't seem to get the screws out from when I took the bar ends off to install the WC bars. I just drilled the head off the screws and went from there. Not to mention, they're my extras in case I go down and need temporary replacement bars.

Thats what ill do.

And awww darn, i woulda snatched them right up! I havent found any off of ebay that arent bent... But thanks for thinking about it! Im going to put in order in for those, along with this clutch lever, and this blinker. As soon as all that comes in, ill have a minorly scratched bike for right at $1,125 that i should make a good profit off of.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:53 AM   #14
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yeah a couple hundred dollars sounds like good profit on that bike.

Have you done all the necessary maintenance on it? that might be a good way to ensure that you get your asking price. An add that mentions that all the regular maintenance (and lists what that is) is going to catch the newbies who don't know how to do their own maintenance yet.

oil, coolant, brake fluid, valve adjustment, carb cleaning/sync, tires, chain cleaned/lubed, etc.

holy sh*t, now I'm really considering buying a used bike to fix and re-sell. A week with that bad boy and I could turn a couple hundred dollars? sign me up!
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 08:02 AM   #15
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yeah a couple hundred dollars sounds like good profit on that bike.

Have you done all the necessary maintenance on it? that might be a good way to ensure that you get your asking price. An add that mentions that all the regular maintenance (and lists what that is) is going to catch the newbies who don't know how to do their own maintenance yet.

oil, coolant, brake fluid, valve adjustment, carb cleaning/sync, tires, chain cleaned/lubed, etc.

holy sh*t, now I'm really considering buying a used bike to fix and re-sell. A week with that bad boy and I could turn a couple hundred dollars? sign me up!

Im going to change the oil, that should meet the budget right at or somewhere around $130-$150, and if i have money left over i might as well do a coolant change as well. I took a look at the coolant and it looks okay, but if i have money ill go ahead and change that. For the valves, im going to see if i can get away with leaving them be for now. If that is a block on selling it, ill check em, but ill put it up first. I cleaned the carbs two days ago, and it purrs like a kitten so i dont think a carb sync is needed, but i cant be sure. It runs tip top. The tires are almost new Pirelli's, and im going to be doing the chain lube sometime this week. The brake fluid looks good as well, wouldnt hurt to change it though as i already have the fluid for it. The brakes are definently a little worn, but ill see if i can leave them be for now as well. So ive def. got maintenance covered

If you can find a deal that you KNOW you can turn around and sell for more, or even the asking price you wont lose anything, but gain something, so its definently a good idea
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 08:34 AM   #16
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How many miles are on that thing? A valve adjustment is free on pregens as long as you do it yourself, and it is a good way to get someone to buy the bike if it has a complete list of regular maintenance. If it has enough miles to need tires, it likely is due for a valve adjustment.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:49 AM   #17
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Just keep looking on ebay for parts. I got a whole left handle bar that had a very very slight bend for like $25 dollars. It came with everything. Clutch lever, choke cable, the turn signal/horn switch thing.

Deals are out there. Just keep looking.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:12 PM   #18
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How many miles are on that thing? A valve adjustment is free on pregens as long as you do it yourself, and it is a good way to get someone to buy the bike if it has a complete list of regular maintenance. If it has enough miles to need tires, it likely is due for a valve adjustment.
9222 miles as of today. And it wont be going up. And if time permits, i may do it, how long do they take? I did one on my newgen, so i figure it would take less time? Ill post it on when i have everything said and done, but if it comes down to whether a valve adjustment is needed or not, ill do it. But i definently agree with you because one of the first things i look for on a bike is whether or not it has had a valve adjustment.

And @Jono, man seems like you got a hell of a deal. I would keep searching, but i need them now so i can sell it, plus i already ordered them. Came out to $ 116.22 for a clutch lever, right and left handlebars, and a blinker. And those blinkers better be interchangable all the way around, cuz if there not, im making it work one way or the other lol. I looked at them, and they seem to be the same so they should fit.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:16 PM   #19
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It will take a few hours to get done. It's easier than the new-gen adjustment procedure because all you have to do is loosen the lock-nut, adjust the screw to the right valve lash, and then torque the nut to spec. No shims needed.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:21 PM   #20
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Yeah the turn signals work all the way around. Don't worry. I have two rear signals on the front of my bike.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:37 PM   #21
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Yeah the turn signals work all the way around. Don't worry. I have two rear signals on the front of my bike.
Okay good.

And @choneofakind, do you know of any good DIY's for the pregen? Ive looked but it seems i cant find any...
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:38 PM   #22
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do you know of any good DIY's for the pregen?
yessir! In fact, there's an entire wiki full of them.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Main_Page
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 08:06 PM   #23
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I actually meant any good DIYs for valve adjustments on the pregen that was my bad...but thanks for that link, definently helpful!
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:12 PM   #24
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yeah, go with stock.

I would offer you my stock bars, but I can't seem to get the screws out from when I took the bar ends off to install the WC bars. I just drilled the head off the screws and went from there. Not to mention, they're my extras in case I go down and need temporary replacement bars.
Wasn't there a shaft remaining when you drilled the head off and pulled the bar end off? From there, you just mount the bar, attach vice-grips perpendicular to the shaft, and turn the vice grips. If it slips, apply heat and turn. Simple, but I didn't have a drill to take off the head and had to pay $40 for that fix.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:33 PM   #25
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yeah, tried it. The vice grips just stripped the threads on the screw shaft (<-- hehehe) and it didn't twist. That's why I just drilled the whole damn head off in the first place.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:36 PM   #26
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yeah, tried it. The vice grips just stripped the threads on the screw shaft (<-- hehehe) and it didn't twist. That's why I just drilled the whole damn head off in the first place.
Then it needs heat. I know Chris (Gilmore!) and I could get 'em out if you gave him a good price on the bars. Heck, you can always drill out the plate with the threaded hole entirely to make it fit universal bar ends.

I have my old bar ends listed in the freebies thread. AFAIK, the bar ends are interchangeable, so I can help there.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:39 PM   #27
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Well I have no incentive to get the screw out because I don't use them. I'll try and get the screw out eventually.

Chris, if you don't have a set of stock bars in 1.5 weeks when I'm home and unpacked, I'll take out the screws by using more heat and I'll figure out a way to ship them to you if you pay me for them. Not so sure how much shipping will be though.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:49 PM   #28
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I actually meant any good DIYs for valve adjustments on the pregen that was my bad...but thanks for that link, definently helpful!
When I did my valve adjustment this is all I used. And it was my first time doing anything inside of an engine. If you can do the newgen valve job then this will be a cakewalk. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is...t_procedure%3F
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Old May 5th, 2012, 09:37 AM   #29
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So I could run new gen clipons on my old gen bike with no problem...
I have 1995 EX500 fork tubes on my bike...
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Old May 5th, 2012, 10:26 AM   #30
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So I could run new gen clipons on my old gen bike with no problem...
I have 1995 EX500 fork tubes on my bike...
Depends....whats the diameter on those tubes? New gen is 37mm. I fit 41mm clipons on my new gen using rod bearings as spacers.
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Old May 5th, 2012, 10:53 AM   #31
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So I could run new gen clipons on my old gen bike with no problem...
I have 1995 EX500 fork tubes on my bike...
Yeah I think those are 37mm tubes Skippii.
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Old May 6th, 2012, 07:21 AM   #32
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Yeah I think those are 37mm tubes Skippii.
They are.
It more an observation than a question.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 09:02 PM   #33
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for the record. if anyone searches for this info.
i put newgen clip ons on my pregen. a rim of tape on the around the fork n they fit fine and held. other way around could have worked. loosen them up more to slide on. sand the inside. 1mm is very small
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Old November 7th, 2012, 09:01 AM   #34
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for the record. if anyone searches for this info.
i put newgen clip ons on my pregen. a rim of tape on the around the fork n they fit fine and held. other way around could have worked. loosen them up more to slide on. sand the inside. 1mm is very small
Which clip-ons? I doubt Woodcraft even needs the tape because the clamps are two-piece with plenty of slack on 37mm newgen forks. I also don't understand why you had to sand when there was too much clearance.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 09:14 AM   #35
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not sure what brand. they were . but after back surgery i couldnt lean up like that so i got mx bars. i used tape cuz i wanted them pretty tight. imagine a handle bar coming loose when abusing the bike O.O
sand if the fitment was the other way around. 36mm clipon on 37mm forks.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 09:15 AM   #36
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not sure what brand. they were . but after back surgery i couldnt lean up like that so i got mx bars. i used tape cuz i wanted them pretty tight. imagine a handle bar coming loose when abusing the bike O.O
sand if the fitment was the other way around. 36mm clipon on 37mm forks.
Ah. Thanks. I take it the clip-ons you used did not have risers and wouldn't clear with fairings and such?
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Old November 7th, 2012, 09:16 AM   #37
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i dont have fairings and i lowerd my forks jus enough to put the clip ons on the top of the tree
i also banged in my tank becase i wanted the clip ons tilted in and not so straight. /-\ not _--_


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Old November 7th, 2012, 10:20 AM   #38
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i dont have fairings and i lowerd my forks jus enough to put the clip ons on the top of the tree
i also banged in my tank becase i wanted the clip ons tilted in and not so straight. /-\ not _--_

Thanks. Awesome pics! I'm getting ready to order these to see if they fit my SV650 clip-ons with risers on the EX250F.
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