What Did You Do to Your Ninjette Today ??

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by DCMoney

Oh and replaced a front brake pad...

hmm? What happened here?

[DCMoney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

hmm? What happened here?

Brake pad failure?

Not sure, during the race I had very little braking power, put new pads on stopping ability was greatly approved.

[mgentz]

I figured it failed. Any known reason why? i.e. did you scuff the pad? drop the pad?

[DCMoney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I figured it failed. Any known reason why? i.e. did you scuff the pad? drop the pad?

No, never had them off stock pads as far as I know, 15k miles.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

What happened with your steering stem? I noticed on mine that the spanner nut loosens up over time. I know it shouldn't but mine did. Second time around I ended up replacing it with tapered bearings thinking it failed but it loosened up again.

not sure honestly, I rode the bike in to work in the morning and on the way home a few miles out under braking the bike tried to buck, squirm, and toss me. I pulled over and could feel a sick amount of steering slop in the stem and the steering stem bearing grease was all over the back of the front fender.

I got the bike home and put her on the stands and took the top triple off and pulled the cap and upper race and the upper balls look pretty good. I have to find a good way to support the bike so I can pull the lower out and look at it.

I did not have any real indication that it was about to do that and regularly check the pull the front brake and rock for clunk, pop, or slop in the stem.

[csmith12]

Unload it from the trailer coming back from the track. Now onto fixing what is broken.

[LittleRedNinjette]

Took her to work for the first time.

That was a bit of a cold ride in but worth it.

[menikmati]

Enjoyed the commute with the DRII's, bike feels like it basically falls over with minimal counter-steering inputs. I used to have to put in a lot more effort for the bike to lean, mostly due to the rear being squared off.

So far I'm satisfied with my choice of going from a 150 rear to a 140.

Does anyone know if you can fit the chain guard on? I've had mine off because I didn't want to cut mine to fit a 150 rear.

[NevadaWolf]

Took the Dremel to the shifter, the kickstand bracket, the peg, and the post wheree the spring connects to the kickstand all in hopes of smoothing out or rounding off the sharp edges created when my bike slid across the pavement.



Found it was the block of metal that the kickstand bolts to that had been slicing the leg of my overpants. Now its all smooth and rounded so hopefully that stops.

[tfkrocks]

Tried to finish wrestling the tire onto the wheel this morning but gave up.Went back to the same person as yesterday for round 2 and finally got the front tire on for the 250. Took both me and the person changing my tire holding the tire in place on the machine to get it on. Little ****.

Now I just gotta clean the wheel and put both wheels back on the 250 and it'll be ready for CL

[Sirref]

Took the fairings off to check for damage and such, took a full inventory of damage. All of the damage is cosmetic as I thought, nothing needs to be replaced for the bike to run as it should. As for cosmetics I only need one fairing piece and to switch the exhaust (which I was planning to do down the line already)

Now I've just got to install them SS brake lines and wait for my new helmet to arrive

[cbinker]

Rode it to work!!!

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

not sure honestly, I rode the bike in to work in the morning and on the way home a few miles out under braking the bike tried to buck, squirm, and toss me. I pulled over and could feel a sick amount of steering slop in the stem and the steering stem bearing grease was all over the back of the front fender.

I got the bike home and put her on the stands and took the top triple off and pulled the cap and upper race and the upper balls look pretty good. I have to find a good way to support the bike so I can pull the lower out and look at it.

I did not have any real indication that it was about to do that and regularly check the pull the front brake and rock for clunk, pop, or slop in the stem.

Mine only clunked when it hit a bump. Bouncing on the front end doesn't provide a quick compression for it to clunk.

Changed the oil and took apart my exhaust. Fuel in oil is no bueno. Doesn't helped that I reused the oil filter since last oil change. using a K&N oil filter. Had to reuse my old o rings since the one that came with the filter were too thick/large. checked my plugs and air filter. May drop a jet size and see if my top speed increases. Flipped my air filter upside down.

[cuong-nutz]

[mgentz]

Float needles?

[LittleRedNinjette]

Yesterday as i got on rt1 i noticed the right mirror wobbling. Craned my neck to get a better look and the realized the bolts where coming loose!
Stopped for gas and hand tightened them as best i could for the rest of the ride home.
The guy that had her before me had put extension blocks on, work great BTW, but didn't use any loctite... Anyone know if the stock bolts have loctite from the factory?

Anyway now they do.

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Float needles?

It could be. Debating if I should put an inline fuel filter when I do pull the carbs.
@LittleRedNinjette,
I don't they they do but then again I have a 250 and mine didn't :d

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Mine only clunked when it hit a bump. Bouncing on the front end doesn't provide a quick compression for it to clunk.

Got the whole thing apart last night and as soon as I took the weight off the front triple stand the ball bearings came a plopping out. Cleaned and inspected everything and really could not find any significant damage.

There was a little bit of the tell tale surface marring on the races from about 10K worth of use but minor and not enough to make me take them out. I greased them up and reinstalled.

I can never seem to get the steering head bearings quite rite and most the time mine end up a bit to tight. There is a very slight bit of drag I can feel when moving the steering back and forth in the bearing assembly but no read slop or pop when moving the triples back and forth. I will probably end up changing the bearings out for the tapered units like I did on the race bike next major service or if I get the bike back on the road and really don't like what I feel.

I also put springs and changed the fork oil in the forks but ran out of garage time. I will take a stab at getting it all back together tonight and tomorrow night.

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

Got the whole thing apart last night and as soon as I took the weight off the front triple stand the ball bearings came a plopping out. Cleaned and inspected everything and really could not find any significant damage.

There was a little bit of the tell tale surface marring on the races from about 10K worth of use but minor and not enough to make me take them out. I greased them up and reinstalled.

I can never seem to get the steering head bearings quite rite and most the time mine end up a bit to tight. There is a very slight bit of drag I can feel when moving the steering back and forth in the bearing assembly but no read slop or pop when moving the triples back and forth. I will probably end up changing the bearings out for the tapered units like I did on the race bike next major service or if I get the bike back on the road and really don't like what I feel.

I also put springs and changed the fork oil in the forks but ran out of garage time. I will take a stab at getting it all back together tonight and tomorrow night.

I torque mine per the manual and then use feel from there to get them how I like them. The poor man's steering damper is to run tight bearings.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I torque mine per the manual and then use feel from there to get them how I like them. The poor man's steering damper is to run tight bearings.

Yeah I either have to make a socket or something to torque them down if the future. I just use the preload spanner to tighten it down good to seat everything, then back it off and tighten it until I can move it by hand by pushing on the triple but tight enough that if doesn't flop back and forth on its own after pushing on the bars (requires input to continue to move)

like I said lol, mine end up being too tight most of the time.

[cbinker]

changed the front brake pads.

[mgentz]

continued putting it back together...

[DCMoney]

Learned this trick from an SV guy this past weekend, now just a small hole in the swingarm and plate for a ziptie and no more worrying about plates moving around while changing the rear wheel.

[rojoracing53]

^ I like this idea

I inspected the valve clearances and found them still in spec, actually they haven't moved a single .001" since I adjusted them at 12k miles and I'm currently at 41k miles. I changed out my Iridium spark plugs after 29k for some new Iridium plugs(same). The arc had wore a crater in the tip making the gap .042" which is just out of the spec which Kawi calls for .030-.040". This would explain why my bike which has never needed to use the choke at first start up started acting a little cold blooded these last 6k miles. With the new plugs installed and carb sync recheck(also no adjustment needed) the bike fired right up this morning and I rolled out with no need to warm it up.

Mounted the Mtb to the back and rode it to work so I'm ready to go for tonight's Mtb races.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by DCMoney

Learned this trick from an SV guy this past weekend, now just a small hole in the swingarm and plate for a ziptie and no more worrying about plates moving around while changing the rear wheel.

hey that is pretty good, I am going to have to try that next time I have it off. Anyone else seem to always have the brake size adjuster cap at the end of the swingarm not under tension when tightening it due to the chain weight?

threads are equal and wheel is aligned but I almost always have to push on the wheel to keep tension on the brake side when tightening the axle down.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

hey that is pretty good, I am going to have to try that next time I have it off. Anyone else seem to always have the brake size adjuster cap at the end of the swingarm not under tension when tightening it due to the chain weight?

threads are equal and wheel is aligned but I almost always have to push on the wheel to keep tension on the brake side when tightening the axle down.

Your supposed to use the 12mm combination wrench you just got done using on the adjustment nut and stick it into the chain and sprocket. You then rotate the wheel back so the 12mm wrench gets jammed into the sprocket and chain so the wheel won't turn. This causes the to pull forward as you try and rotate it back thus bottoming out all you adjustment blocks and axel. It the same deal as pushing the tire forward with your knee but this method is easier to do.

[DCMoney]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

hey that is pretty good, I am going to have to try that next time I have it off. Anyone else seem to always have the brake size adjuster cap at the end of the swingarm not under tension when tightening it due to the chain weight?

threads are equal and wheel is aligned but I almost always have to push on the wheel to keep tension on the brake side when tightening the axle down.

You don't have to take the wheel off to do it. I have an extra set of adjusters and plates, was shown there for picture purposes.

Just take the nuts off remove plate, add spring and put back together. If your axle nut is tight you shouldn't have to readjust anything just set lock nut.

I saw another guy that replaced the stock ones with nylock nuts.

[mgentz]

where did you get the springs? please know that non-machinists don't have these things lying around

[DCMoney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

where did you get the springs? please know that non-machinists don't have these things lying around

Found them in a box at work... Measurements tell me its basically this spring from mcmastercarr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9657k429/=rntxbv

But I cut it down to about 2" to make it work and its under a lot of tension.

So something like this should work perfect.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9657k121/=rnty6o



Ill see at lunch if Lowes has anything that will work.

For the record, I'm not a machinist.

[Kevin1956]

I did something I should have done the very day I took the bike home. I went to a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket. The difference is more than what I thought it would be. My left foot's a lot less active in traffic, the bike less buzzy at highway speeds.

[psych0hans]

Cut off the toe peg feeler thingies because they were scraping at the track, causing me to run off...

[mgentz]

Just unscrew them next time

[DCMoney]

Originally Posted by DCMoney

Found them in a box at work... Measurements tell me its basically this spring from mcmastercarr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9657k429/=rntxbv

But I cut it down to about 2" to make it work and its under a lot of tension.

So something like this should work perfect.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9657k121/=rnty6o



Ill see at lunch if Lowes has anything that will work.

For the record, I'm not a machinist.

Found this at Lowes, worked fine.

[mgentz]

awesome.

Thank you!

[sharky nrk]

rode her to work this morning after the maintenance this week *see post a few up*

I hate that anytime you change a bunch of stuff you have that "everything feels different so must be something wrong" or "I must have forgotten something" feeling lol

also commuting on the 6R for a week made me appreciate some things more on the ninjette and also makes me really dislike some of her short comings. recency effect you know

[Insane Pie]

Went to replace my clutch and brake levers with Chinese brand. The brake lever fit fine, but the bolt for the clutch lever wasn't fitting. I thought I just couldn't get the bolt screwed in correctly, but upon further inspection the hole for the bolt isn't large enough. Then I looked at the packaging and the customs slip says "Ninja 300". Ordered them a few weeks ago, hopefully I don't have to pay for new ones. :/ No biggie, but just pain in the ass

Good news, I was able to replace the foot brake.

[LittleRedNinjette]

Originally Posted by Insane Pie

Went to replace my clutch and brake levers with Chinese brand. The brake lever fit fine, but the bolt for the clutch lever wasn't fitting. I thought I just couldn't get the bolt screwed in correctly, but upon further inspection the hole for the bolt isn't large enough. Then I looked at the packaging and the customs slip says "Ninja 300". Ordered them a few weeks ago, hopefully I don't have to pay for new ones. :/ No biggie, but just pain in the ass

Good news, I was able to replace the foot brake.

They may have just screwed up the hole. The levers should be the same.

[Insane Pie]

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

They may have just screwed up the hole. The levers should be the same.

That's what I thought at first. Hopefully I don't have to return both levers.

[cuong-nutz]

Removing the carbs seemed more difficult this time around. Swapped back to stock 98 Jets from my DJ 98. Now I just got to find a stretch of road to do a top speed run.

[cuong-nutz]

I has a 300 motor now