September 10th, 2016, 11:34 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
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Location: Seattle
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 17
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Oil and Temp Light Stay On
Got my bike back together after waiting on some parts and being a little too busy. After starting it up, the bikes Oil and Temp light didn't turn off. Checked the oil level and coolant level again just to be sure, both were fine.
I had just adjusted the valves and tore up the carbs. Oil and coolant were changed, new filter, etc. I double checked all my wires and hoses before starting up and there were no leaks before and after starting it up. For the few moments I let it run (10 seconds or so) the engine sounded fine, no knocking, slapping, etc. The high beam, turn lights, fuel gauge, tach, etc all functioned properly. I had read that the oil and heat light form some kind of circuit and both lights being on could be due to a bad ground along that circuit. Does anyone have some suggestions for trouble shooting? TLDR: Started up, oil and temp light stays on. -oil + filter and coolant were changed -valves adjusted, had to remove rad. hoses, mounts, etc. on right side. -replaced cylinder head cover gasket -replaced spark plug gaskets -replaced water pipe o-ring that going into cylinder head -carb cleaned -the rest of the gauge cluster works fine. -no terrible noises while it ran. I thought I would post this up right now and maybe get some input while I continue doing some searching. Thanks Edit: In the service manual under water temp warning system "The water temperature warning light goes on when the ignition switch is turned on and goes off soon after the en- gine starts running (oil pressure switch off) to ensure that its circuit functions properly. The warning light also goes on whenever the coolant temperature rises to 110 ∼ 120°C (230 ∼ 248°F) when the motorcycles is in operation. If it stays on, stop the engine and check the coolant level in the reserve tank after the engine cools down." I may be reading this wrong, but It seems to say that if the oil pressure switch is off, then the water temp light will go off. So if my oil pressure switch isn't turning off then both lights will stay on. IF this is true, then for this to be the cause there would need to be a wire from the switch grounding out somewhere? Somebody correct me if I am wrong. -In the mean time I am going to check the local auto parts store for a cheap oil pressure gauge and plug that in, see what I get. Edit: Should have brought the Switch with me, none of the fittings are the correct thread size. Looks like I'll pick this back up tomorrow. Last futzed with by The Seldom One; September 10th, 2016 at 01:39 PM. |
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September 10th, 2016, 02:06 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Winnipeg
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2003 ZX12R (sold), 2012 250R, 1975 Honda XL250, 1980 XJ650 Posts: 99
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If you only ran it for 10 seconds after an oil change, that wasn't enough time for the system to read pressure as the oil filter was dry......especially if it was running at a low rpm.
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September 10th, 2016, 02:46 PM | #3 | |
ninjette.org member
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Quote:
Anyways, you are suggesting that I let it run for a longer period? What is an acceptable about of time for it to build oil pressure after an oil change, in your opinion? I would think it shouldn't take more than a couple seconds. I have never had an oil pressure light stay on after a change, so I am a little skeptical. |
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September 10th, 2016, 03:11 PM | #4 | |
Daily Ninjette rider
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Quote:
Did you purge the cooling system? http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F
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September 10th, 2016, 03:16 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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September 10th, 2016, 03:35 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Winnipeg
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2003 ZX12R (sold), 2012 250R, 1975 Honda XL250, 1980 XJ650 Posts: 99
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Mine usually stays on for at least 10 seconds everyday until I give the throttle a little blip.
If you sit on it, hold the bike vertical off the kickstand, start it and give the throttle one or 2 blips, the light SHOULD go off within 30 seconds. This is all assuming that you put the oil filter in correctly, and your wiring is correct...even though you said you double checked it. |
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September 10th, 2016, 03:42 PM | #7 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: N/A
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
Thanks for the input, I'll give this a shot tomorrow after I determine I have oil pressure. |
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September 11th, 2016, 01:25 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: N/A
Location: Seattle
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 17
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Update
No shops had correct adapters to run the oil pressure gauge, getting one tomorrow at a specialty shop.
Since I couldn't do that, I drained the oil (again...), removed the filter and double checked it was installed correctly, as well as removed and cleaned the oil screen and inspected for metal shavings etc. The screen was super clean but had two very very small pieces of metal and a couple other needle point sized pieces (sand sized), which I pulled up with a magnet. I don't think that is to cause alarm unless someone else thinks other wise. Tested the oil pressure switch and it functions how it should, is on when grounded and off when pressure is applied. Reinstalled all the junk, doubled checked, decided to start it up and the light was still on. Now I didn't let it run for long, once again. If someone can tell me with close to guarantee that it MAY take longer for it to build sufficient oil pressure after an oil change (I had let it drain for a very long period while working on it) then I will be convinced to give it a shot for a slightly longer amount of time. If not, I hope the oil pressure gauge shows its all ok tomorrow... I guess my question to anyone willing to answer would be is there anything I could have accidentally fiddled with while doing the maintenance I stated earlier? Also, does anyone know what the oil pump is run off of? |
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September 11th, 2016, 02:01 PM | #9 |
Vintage Screwball
Name: B
Location: Washington
Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot.
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Oil pump is gear driven off the clutch side. If you want to test it longer to see if the light goes out there is a simple solution.
Remove the spark plugs and tie the wires off to the side to prevent arcing. Thumb the starter button until the light goes out. There's enough speed in the starter motor to produce oil pressure to activate the switch and you don't have to worry about damage.
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September 11th, 2016, 02:31 PM | #10 | |
ninjette.org member
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Quote:
Incase anyone reads this and has a similar issue, I had let my oil drain for a long time while working on my bike, I suspect this caused the issue. Regardless, I appreciate the response, I'll keep that in mind incase I ever run into a similar issue again. |
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4 out of 4 members found this post helpful. |
October 3rd, 2016, 11:49 AM | #11 |
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October 5th, 2016, 08:11 AM | #12 | |
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October 7th, 2016, 10:07 AM | #13 |
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