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Old August 11th, 2011, 09:33 AM   #1
d16soda
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Erratic idle, wont start cold, etc.

So, I have a 2005 Ninja 250 - really great condition mechanically. It only has 2,000 miles and has been maintained it's whole life. Recently went to jail, and didnt run the gas out of the carbs before i went. I know, bonehead move. Rebuilt and cleaned the carbs, synchronized the throttle, and put it all back together. Here is my issue:

Wont start cold. Choke seems to make no difference. I have to use ether/carb cleaner to get it started initially.
When it runs, the idle is crazy and wont seem to stay still. I am constantly adjusting it to make it rideable.
While riding, seems to surge a tiny bit, not too much though.
Cant run it anywhere near stable until it is completely warmed up.

What are my options? Ideas? The carb is correctly connected to the airbox with no air leak as far as i am concerned and the two intake hoses to the block are snug and fitted correctly.


Edit: recleaned and resynced carbs, and put it back on the bike. Idles fine, jumps up a little like there is a vacuum leak. About to go on my break at work (work in a mechanics shop so i have access to tools, lifts, etc. on my break) and I am going to fire up my bike and let it warm up to see if problems persist.

Yesterday, although idling fine, I put it in gear, and when i released the clutch the tach and lights would die and the engine would slowly fall like the fuel was being cut. If i pulled the clutch the gauge cluster would come back to life and the engine would continue idling. Now, I dont remember having the kickstand down but I did read that there was a kickstand switch that would prevent it from moving in gear. Also, my battery was very dead (left the key on during work up until lunch). Battery is charged reading 13v, installed, and i will make sure i have the kickstand up this time. Any ideas though why the clutch engaging would kill the enging?
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Old August 11th, 2011, 09:58 AM   #2
Felipe the Ant
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The kickstand switch would have killed the engine as soon as you left neutral so I doubt that has much to do with it. How high were you revving it when you were releasing the clutch? If the battery is dead perhaps the bike was just getting barely enough power to run from the alternator? Try charging/swapping the battery first and see where that gets you
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Old August 11th, 2011, 10:01 AM   #3
Alex
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I think you're on the right track. Key suspects are either clogged pilot jets (even after the cleaning), or a vacuum leak on reassembly.
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Old August 11th, 2011, 10:26 AM   #4
d16soda
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Well, just took it for a quick 15 minute ride. It was idling fine warm but when I clutch in at a stop sign, it seems to hang longer than it needs to. Im not sure where this vacuum leak is :/
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Old August 17th, 2011, 09:26 AM   #5
d16soda
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so guys, still having the same problem. Took the carbs off AGAIN, reseated the boots, new clamps, cleaned, resynchronized the throttle plates, and make sure things were in order.

Now, when i spray throttle body cleaner (Carb/choke cleaner) on the little throttle bracket where the wires hook in, the idle shoots up. I dont understand how the throttle bracket could be leaking air. Anything like this ever happened to anyone? Is there a common error here? What exactly over the throttle bracket could even leak into the engine? I am at a loss.
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Old August 17th, 2011, 10:28 AM   #6
GeorgeRYoung
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Butterfly shaft seals

I've never taken the butterflies apart on the EX250 carbs, but I have on another bike (XZ550).

There's supposed to be a seal on the shaft where it passes thru the carb body to keep air from leaking in.

Sounds like your carb is leaking past that seal.

If that is the problem, you might be able to replace them with little O-rings.
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Old August 18th, 2011, 09:31 AM   #7
d16soda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeRYoung View Post
I've never taken the butterflies apart on the EX250 carbs, but I have on another bike (XZ550).

There's supposed to be a seal on the shaft where it passes thru the carb body to keep air from leaking in.

Sounds like your carb is leaking past that seal.

If that is the problem, you might be able to replace them with little O-rings.
Okay, thanks for the reply. I am trying to match up the seal with what i have in stock in my shop so i can avoid going to a parts store. I have aluminium and copper O-rings of various sizes. Does anyone know ahead of time if these should suffice given I have a size that fits?

Last futzed with by d16soda; August 24th, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
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Old August 24th, 2011, 09:21 AM   #8
d16soda
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Bump.
Going to try to do this today and was hoping for some isight on the o-rings.
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Old August 24th, 2011, 01:52 PM   #9
d16soda
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No one? I cant necessarily figure out to get to the bushing/o-ring behind the throttle. Do i remove the 4 screws on the two throttle plaes inside the carb and it just slides out?
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Old August 24th, 2011, 02:12 PM   #10
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I'm sorry. I've never taken apart that portion of the carbs
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