O-ring versus Non O-ring chain?

[corksil]

Hello. EX250J/250r 2009. Intake, exhaust, race cams, carb work, more aggressive gearing... many other mods.

Does anyone use a Non O-ring chain on their 250r? An older motorcycle racing friend I know recommends that I not use an O/X-ring chain.

His reasoning is that a non O-ring chain will cause the bike to be noticeably faster due to the reduced friction that a non O-ring chain will provide.

It's time for me to replace chain and both sprockets and I was just about to order a DID non O-ring chain, but it says on the product page of the manufacturers website..

Notes- If you motorcycle came with an OEM O-ring or X-ring chain, DO NOT replace it with a standard non O-ring chain; you must replace it with a sealed chain of equal or greater strength.

STANDARD NON O-RING CHAINS ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE MOTORCYCLES.

Can anyone share a little insight? I'd really like to get this figured out and get the parts ordered so I can hurry up and wait a week for them to arrive and get this bike back on the road for summer. It was 93*F the other day and sometimes it seems so hot that a quick ride around the block on the bike is the only way to cool off in between work projects.

If a non O-ring chain will produce a noticeable power gain, I'd love one. Then again DID recommends against it, then again -- a 250r is not exactly a high performance motorcycle. It's a souped up weed whacker engine connected to two wheels.

The two product applications listed for the non o-ring chain (2009 Kawasaki) appear to be a 450 four-stroke dirtbike, and a 500cc Vulcan. The non O-ring chain is rated just over 8000lb tensile strength. Seems thoroughly adequate for the power output of a 250r....

Help!

[Ghostt]

This is an age old debate, the O-rings keep dirt out of the rollers, so you need to be diligent about cleaning the chain, and if it's a track only bike, you'll be changing it any way and not riding in bad weather or other dirty conditions etc.....

If your using it for street, use an O-ring, the amount of loss is minimal anyway IMHO.

[subxero]

noticable power gains..... I doubt you would see 1hp on a dyno from a 250. If i remember correctly some of the pacific area racing guys were running 415 size non-oring chains, so smaller lighter non oring chain and they were maybe seeing 1hp? Can't remember exactly

The benefit is cost, non o ring chains can be had for a fraction of the cost of o/x ring what ever letter ring they come out with now. If you are the type of person who keeps up on chain maintenance and doesn't mind it then give a non o ring a shot, even if you have to replace it half as early you will still save $ because they are that much cheaper, oh you can get those power gains as well

[accumack]

Non O-ring chains wearout faster and have to be maintained more frequently. I doubt that you would feel a difference. It's one of those things that sounds good on paper but in practice doesn't produce.

[Rifleman]

also the chain (in part) is a part of the unsprung mass. the lighter the chain, the more responsive the rear suspension.

O/X ring chains are ideal for the street, they deal with water and road grime with little or no worry. they are expensive.

standard roller chain is cheap. but you need to keep it clean and soak them in oil after cleaning.

you are looking for a tensile strength that matches the OEM, or slightly higher. a 530 Tsubaki will run 10,ooo to 12,ooo pounds... maybe the Sigma runs up to 15,ooo...

but for the 250, no reason at all to carry that. Just get the chain with the rated tensile at or near your OEM and keep it wet with oil... and you are good to go.

[csmith12]

sorry, double post

[csmith12]

Just learn to ride it faster TC.

Unless you're trying to shave off .25 seconds off your lap time, it aint gunna matter in the end. We still be settin' lap records on da stock chain out my way.

[FrugalNinja250]

Non-O-ring chains just aren't suitable for regular street use. Even on a race track the almost unmeasurable power loss to the rear wheel would not have any effect on any but the most skilled and experienced racers. These kind of chains require constant cleaning and lubing, and even then they wear out fast because there's just no way to keep road grit from getting into the rollers.

I've had great luck with EK O-ring chains. I just replaced the EK O-ring chain on my '06 after almost 29K miles. Here's what I got: 520SRO5-106.
I bought two back in 2012 for $39 shipped each, they're up a bit now but there's one for $50 shipped on Amazon right now.

I would recommend against the RK X-ring chain, I got one and it was junk after only 12K miles.

[dino74]

Having used both o-ring and non o-ring on my 250, I'd stick with the o-ring. Maintenance is soooo much easier on the o-ring.

[Racer x]

Actually the power loss is surprising . Two ft lb of torque is a lot on a 13 ft lb bike. I could not believe it. But I did back to back tests on the dyno. Non o ring for racing. x ring for the street.

[sharky nrk]

Yeah I remember a dyno test in some magazine about a loss from chain doing a swap to a 520 on a 1000cc bike. Hold on let me get a link....

http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-t...er-mythbusters

Now I am a bit skeptical of the source and the numbers are not mind blowing but it was measurable none the less. On a 100+hp bike I am not sure you would notice 1 hp, on a 30 hp bike.......I bet you could tell. I know when MKlein3004 changed from a good 520 chain/sprocket setup (ERV3 and Renthal sprockets I think) to the 415 non oring setup it was VERY VERY noticeable.

On a race bike a swap to a light non-oring chain and lightweight sprocket makes sense. On a street bike ..... not worth it.

[choneofakind]

Couple things here:

1) only benefit I see of a non-o-ring chain is that you can take it off and put it in a solvent based parts cleaner. Then you can leave it in a bucket of oil and not worry about it. aka, maintenance.

2) You can feel the difference in a dirty vs clean bicycle chain. I see no reason why you wouldn't feel it on a motorcycle. No personal experience here though.

TC, just use the O-ring chain so much easier, so much less hassle. worth it. Get over yourself.

[Ghostt]

You can make make up for the power loss by not have that second cheeseburger.

[choneofakind]

^^ and by taking a poop.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

^^ and by taking a poop.

Exactly

[Racer x]

I treat my motorcycle chain like a bicycle chain. I use dry lube on it. (BelRay) and clean it with break clean spray and compressed air. A non o ring chain is like a piece of rope. It just swings around. And lays in a pile. The O ring chain is much heavier and holds its shape. I can wright letters and it will stand up its so stiff.
For regular street riding. Or a low matinance bike. O ring chain is a must. Use 90 weight gear oil it will last forever.

[dcj13]

Gee, guys...

TC's done a lot of performance-enhancing mods to his two-fiddy. And if he can get a foot-pound or two more torque (which is significant) by simply installing a lower-friction chain, then why not go for it? TC recognizes the down side (more cleaning and maintenance, shorter life).

For a small displacement bike and for what he's trying to achieve, this modification seems like pretty good bang for the buck.

[Ghostt]

I apologize, I'm just busting chops.

As I stated in my original post, I agree with the idea for a track bike.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I apologize, I'm just busting chops.

As I stated in my original post, I agree with the idea for a track bike.

Fair enough: we're all entitled to an opinion and everyone is being reasonably polite. This thread is more interesting than most of the others on this forum.

Being stuck on a Hawaiian island with a motorcycle is kind of like living on a track with a speed limit.

[xXecuterXx2]

Originally Posted by dcj13

Being stuck on a Hawaiian island with a motorcycle is kind of like living on a track with a speed limit.

LOL