Bike not wanting to rev past ~5k while driving

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Just put it back together, bike wouldn't start without choke one, the more choke the better; is this normal?

I synced the carbs after the bike warmed up it seemed like the bike wanted to either rev like crazy or die from too much air (or maybe fuel). I did play around with the idle adjuster briefly which may have caused this.

I noticed the float bowls were leaking fuel so i now have the carbs out and am putting gasket maker around all the flat o-rings (i'm on a budget). I may or may not try to fix the diaphrams but I'm not convinced the cut is large enough yet....

[choneofakind]

The purpose of the diaphragms is to seal. This way, when there is a pressure difference between the intake (which happens when the throttle is opened) and the top of the carb, the slides move up, equalizing the pressure difference, and opening up the insides of the carbs.

hole = no pressure difference = slides stuck in the down position = poor performance. You're going to want to fix the diaphragms.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Put everything back on, now bike won't start because air/fuel mixture is whack now. How do I know how to set it? the fuel overflow hose is spilling fuel now from what i'm pretty sure is a flooded engine? I messed with the idle mix so much idk where it's even set at. I try to move it back and forth but the engine just sounds the same.....

[choneofakind]

ok. Start from a place we know. Set the idle mix screws to 2.5 turns out. The overflow is from the carbs

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

ok. Start from a place we know. Set the idle mix screws to 2.5 turns out. The overflow is from the carbs

I meant the idle knob that sticks out to the left of the bike. I have not messed with the idle mix screws

[choneofakind]

For that one, you're just going to have to start it and see what happens when it's running. If you think that's the reason that it's not starting, try starting the bike with a little throttle.

[alex.s]

if you follow the idle cable to the other side of the carbs you can see the screw it turns and how it effects the throttle wheel thing.

"fuel overflow hose is spilling fuel now from what i'm pretty sure is a flooded engine?" thats the carbs flooding not the engine. that means your petcock is messed up as well as the float valve in your carbs. it wont run like that.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

if you follow the idle cable to the other side of the carbs you can see the screw it turns and how it effects the throttle wheel thing.

"fuel overflow hose is spilling fuel now from what i'm pretty sure is a flooded engine?" thats the carbs flooding not the engine. that means your petcock is messed up as well as the float valve in your carbs. it wont run like that.

Will it be obvious if I'm making it rich or lean theN?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

if you follow the idle cable to the other side of the carbs you can see the screw it turns and how it effects the throttle wheel thing.

"fuel overflow hose is spilling fuel now from what i'm pretty sure is a flooded engine?" thats the carbs flooding not the engine. that means your petcock is messed up as well as the float valve in your carbs. it wont run like that.

It spilled when I was holding the starter button

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

if you follow the idle cable to the other side of the carbs you can see the screw it turns and how it effects the throttle wheel thing.

"fuel overflow hose is spilling fuel now from what i'm pretty sure is a flooded engine?" thats the carbs flooding not the engine. that means your petcock is messed up as well as the float valve in your carbs. it wont run like that.

It was running earlier all I did was put gasket maker on the o-rings of the bowls....

[alex.s]

the idle nob you are talking about is different from the idle mix screw. the black nob on the left side controls the idle speed. its the same as twisting the throttle.

i think you might want to take a moment to stop and educate yourself on how carburettors work and what the various components of them are for and how they work. once you know how it works, it will be very obvious what needs to happen.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

the idle nob you are talking about is different from the idle mix screw. the black nob on the left side controls the idle speed. its the same as twisting the throttle.

i think you might want to take a moment to stop and educate yourself on how carburettors work and what the various components of them are for and how they work. once you know how it works, it will be very obvious what needs to happen.

What would that be?

Would it help if I drained the bowls right now?

[choneofakind]

I think what alex is trying to say is that the idle speed adjuster controls the "zero" position for the throttle, not the mix.

It's obviously got fuel. Try starting it without choke, and add some (just a little, gradually) throttle. If you can get it to put-put put a little, add a touch of choke and see if you can force it to run.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I think what alex is trying to say is that the idle speed adjuster controls the "zero" position for the throttle, not the mix.

It's obviously got fuel. Try starting it without choke, and add some (just a little, gradually) throttle. If you can get it to put-put put a little, add a touch of choke and see if you can force it to run.

I backed out the idle speed adjuster and tried starting with both WOT or choke....The WOT seems to be a tiny bit better but it's still not close to turning over.....

[alex.s]

look at the obvious sign. leaking gas.

it should never leak gas out of the overflow line if your float valves are working properly. the fact that they have worked tells you nothing. they are probably gummed up and so they are getting stuck open and closed

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

look at the obvious sign. leaking gas.

it should never leak gas out of the overflow line if your float valves are working properly. the fact that they have worked tells you nothing. they are probably gummed up and so they are getting stuck open and closed

Cleaned the carbs last night the pieces that attach to the floats looked good as new...

[Motofool]

I agree with Alex.

Justin just introduced a new problem when trying to clean the carbs.

So far, these are the problems:

Broken diaphragm
Broken throttle cable
Leaking float valve(s)

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Motofool

I agree with Alex.

Justin just introduced a new problem when trying to clean the carbs.

So far, these are the problems:

Broken diaphragm
Broken throttle cable
Leaking float valve(s)

lol. Well the decel cable yeah.

Out of curiousity- anytime gas comes out of the overflow tube is there a problem?

[Motofool]

Did you remove the mixture screws during the cleaning?

A better gasket will not stop the overflow; one or both valves are not closing properly for some reason.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Did you remove the mixture screws during the cleaning?

A better gasket will not stop the overflow; one or both valves are not closing properly for some reason.

If you're talking about the screws that come w/ the caps on them you have to remove no I did not even touch those.

I took a look at the valves before I re-assembled and they were both doing what they were supposed to (visually).

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

My diaphram tear:

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Well I'm all out of ideas today so I guess I'll try again tomorrow I'd like to roll it down a hill right now just to get it going again!

[Motofool]

Just take it easy and resume work tomorrow.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Just take it easy and resume work tomorrow.

Been working on this a few days now that's why I'm not thinking as clearly I'm just ready to ride again!

[Motofool]

Riding an unreliable bike is not fun and dangerous.

It is going to take some patience to fix all these problems.

The diaphragm may be able to seal the vacuum if you can seat it carefully.

The cable is a safety must.

The valves must seal because the base of the good functioning is a constant level of fuel inside the bowls.

Unfortunately, you need to re-clean all the little passages, including the ones for the mix screws.

Here is how:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Did I miss something when cleaning the carbs? I could not get the pilot jets out for the life of me but I did spray every passage I could. A little strange that I assembled everything and started the bike up just fine earlier today but now cannot get bike to turn over after reassembly........

[Motofool]

Too much fuel going into the engine, and maybe into the crankcase contaminating the oil, due to the carbs overflowing.

The only way to correct that is resembling the floats and valves (sometimes just tapping on the body of the carbs with the handle of a big screwdriver set the valves).

If the crankshaft doesn't turn at all, the chamber(s) may be full of gas and hydro-locking (not likely).

I hope your petcock closes properly

Let's start over tomorrow.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Too much fuel going into the engine, and maybe into the crankcase contaminating the oil, due to the carbs overflowing.

The only way to correct that is resembling the floats and valves (sometimes just tapping on the body of the carbs with the handle of a big screwdriver set the valves).

If the crankshaft doesn't turn at all, the chamber(s) may be full of gas and hydro-locking (not likely).

I hope your petcock closes properly

Let's start over tomorrow.

I use my petcock often and the fuel filter I changed just today showed that it did cut off the fuel when it was supposed to.
I thought draining the bowls might do the trick but I didn't bother.....

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Riding an unreliable bike is not fun and dangerous.

true, but it's a GREAT workout!

(pushing the bike home)

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Alright, I have spark plug cleaning and draining of the float bowls planned. If the bike doesn't start after this, I will take the carbs out and check things out further....

Edit: and tapping the carbs a couple times (in case the floats are just seeing if I'm paying attention)and giving it one more try beforehand....

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Also didn't think of this but I need to test the battery!

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

My battery voltage reads 12.19, when I hook it up to the booster I have it reads 12.39, will this be enough to start the bike? I still can't get it to turn over.....

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

My battery voltage reads 12.19, when I hook it up to the booster I have it reads 12.39, will this be enough to start the bike? I still can't get it to turn over.....

You're batter is dead, time to push start that bitch

Link to original page on YouTube.

[choneofakind]

The way my physic prof described batteries:

A battery delivers continuous voltage. It is the amperage that changes, based on a chemical reaction. Sooo it can be delivering 0 amps, but still read above 12V. You need to test the voltage of the battery while it's under load. So get your multimeter ready and reading, then have someone hit the starter button. That should be a ghetto way to load test it.

I think...

[Dragonracer76]

Try this...

a.jpg

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

You're batter is dead, time to push start that bitch

Link to original page on YouTube.

Would explain why bike would start earlier in the day but not after I diss/ass carbs afterwards....

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

The way my physic prof described batteries:

A battery delivers continuous voltage. It is the amperage that changes, based on a chemical reaction. Sooo it can be delivering 0 amps, but still read above 12V. You need to test the voltage of the battery while it's under load. So get your multimeter ready and reading, then have someone hit the starter button. That should be a ghetto way to load test it.

I think...

Well theoretically you have a point but realistically auto batteries predictably read lower in voltage when they are not fully charged anymore. I think amps/volts decline together because of the way batteries are made (chemicals and water) so that the difference in potential (voltage) declines with less material as well as amps (no need to explain that one).

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by Dragonracer76

Try this...

Attachment 21371

I did this and afterwards my bike ate a socket......

[Dragonracer76]

hahaha... er, I mean, bummer.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

As far as checking out the floats as someone mentioned prior- I was looking thru my repair manual and there is actually a "fuel level" spec that you can measure with a clear tube hooked up to your carbs' drain plugs. What you do is attach clear tubing to these drain plugs and mark it in zero and mm onward increments (0, 1mm, 2mm, etc..). Put some fuel in the carbs while you hold the clear tubing 180 degrees against the carb and your zero line above where the bowl attaches to the carb (this is your reference point). After the fuel has settled you slowly lower the tubing until your zero mark lines up with where your bowl's o-ring is, or where the bowls meet the carb's body. The spec listed for '88 and later is -0.5mm (-0.020 inch) to 1.5mm (0.060 inch). Hope this helps I haven't seen this listed anywhere online so I thought I'd type it. I'm going to measure mine tomorrow even though I didn't tamper with the "tangs" at all.