Lots of oil change questions.

[Ninja Rob]

Hi. I am going to change to oil on my bike. It is an 04 ninja 250.
I do not know what kind of oil is currently in it but it needs to be changed and could also use some more because the level is low. I have researched a little and heard that synthetic is the best.

If the oil it has currently is not synthetic, will it cause any harm if it gets mixed with the old oil? It might mix because I do not think every drop of old oil drains out. Or am I wrong?

I have heard 10w-40 and things like that. Where I live, it's hot all year in the 90's and winter is sporadic cold fronts that are usually in the 60's and the coldest time of the year will be about 1 week of 30-40 degrees Farenheit.

So recommend me a good oil and a good filter, and some good tips and advice.

[alex.s]

just drain it fully and remove the filter and let everything stop dripping before putting the new filter in and putting the plugs back in and filling it with new oil.

synthetic is fine.

10w-40 is correct.

kn-401 filter is usually the go-to i think? i might be wrong for pregen. don't trust me on that.

people like rotella t6 for its zddp content. but any 10w-40 oil that is a jaso-ma2 type oil will work fine.

any good-quality new filter (kawi, kn, etc) that fits correctly is fine.

[Ninja Rob]

Originally Posted by alex.s

just drain it fully and remove the filter and let everything stop dripping before putting the new filter in and putting the plugs back in and filling it with new oil.

synthetic is fine.

10w-40 is correct.

kn-401 filter is usually the go-to i think? i might be wrong for pregen. don't trust me on that.

people like rotella t6 for its zddp content. but any 10w-40 oil that is a jaso-ma2 type oil will work fine.

any good-quality new filter (kawi, kn, etc) that fits correctly is fine.

Will I need new gaskets?

[Roark]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

Will I need new gaskets?

You'll need the o-rings (2) for the filter plate and bolt. They should be included in your oil filter box.. If they aren't, return that ish and buy a different one. KN is typically a guaranteed product- good quality control. Fram works most of the time, too.

Another thing some may suggest is to replace the oil drain bolt washer. I never have on any vehicle and have had no problems, but some will still suggest it.

[Ghostt]

no bias

any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine.

[Ninja Rob]

Thank you guys.
Exactly the kind of answers I was looking for.

[Ghostt]

I personally use SHELL Rotella synthetic T6, it's inexpensive, and buy the gallon, you have enough for 2 oil changes, and meets the requirements for wet clutch. I 've used it for many in my Ninja 500, and also the 250 now.

Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil (CJ-4) - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CHT4W6..._tbHGub08BH7R1

K&N oil filter is a
K&N KN-401 Motorcycle/Powersports High Performance Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2CVT2..._zkHGub1F49V63

Features
Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic, heavy duty, oil features an advanced multi-functional, low-ash additive technology in a synthetic base oil designed to provide highly responsive protection that continuously adapts to your driving conditions
Rotella T6 is formulated with reduced levels of ash, phosphorous and sulfur to help maintain the efficiency of the latest vehicle-emissions technologies
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 provides excellent low-temperature flow, even at -30 degrees Fahrenheit
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 provides unsurpassed protection against shear-stability degradation, compared to the leading competitive API CJ-4 5W-40 products
Rotella T6 full synthetic, heavy duty, oil features an advanced multi-functional, low-ash additive technology in a synthetic base oil designed to provide highly responsive protection that continuously adapts to your driving conditions

[Ninja Rob]

What about the torque? I heard that when tightening the bolts, they require a certain torque. I just have regular tools so common sense tells me not to over-tighten it. Yes?

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

What about the torque? I heard that when tightening the bolts, they require a certain torque. I just have regular tools so common sense tells me not to over-tighten it. Yes?

Yes, just don't let this guy tighten it.

SIDENOTE: they are O-rings, not gaskets, so definitely don't over tighten, you'll crush and destroy the O-rings.

[MrAtom]

You can use any of these oil filters:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Filters

Some people think some oil filters are better than others. Do some research, use whatever you think is best. Same with the kind of oil you use.

Also, make sure to warm it up before you change it. When the oil goes cold, all the sediment, bits of carbon, metal, etc that's heavier than the oil sinks down to the bottom in weird little nooks and crannies of the bike. If you let it warm up, all that stuff is mixed in with the warm oil, getting as much of the stuff that's bad for your engine out as possible. Also, oil flows better when it's hot, so you'll get more of the old oil out, too.

And, as far as oil choices, there are no real bad decisions. As long as you're changing it regularly, it doesn't matter. Your bike will be happy. I use Rotella T6 because it's $20/gal where I live, and that's just a little cheaper than the crappiest conventional oil I could find when you do some basic addition. The fact that it's synthetic is a bonus.

[MrAtom]

Oh, and while you're in there, clean out the mesh screen. I cleaned mine out and I don't think the previous owner even knew it existed. There was so many pieces of metal in it I thought I'd have to buy a new one.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

Where I live, it's hot all year in the 90's and winter is sporadic cold fronts that are usually in the 60's and the coldest time of the year will be about 1 week of 30-40 degrees Farenheit.

I'd run 20W50 in your climate. (Hell, I run 20W50 in my climate in my Ninjette).

But you won't go wrong following any of the recommendations posted in this thread so far.

Talking about oil is a lot like discussing religion.

[Ghostt]

That is so true, find a brand you like, make sure it's compatible with the wet clutch, and your set .

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

That is so true, find a brand you like, make sure it's compatible with the wet clutch, and your set .

Bingo! (I'm an oil unitarian, by the way).

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by dcj13

I'd run 20W50 in your climate. (Hell, I run 20W50 in my climate in my Ninjette).

But you won't go wrong following any of the recommendations posted in this thread so far.

Talking about oil is a lot like discussing religion.

I have to disagree. Heavier is not better.

T6 5W-40 is a good all-around oil - even in hot temps. You want high flow, with no more pressure than needed, for lowest wear and best cooling. Heavier oils flow slower and build more pressure.

Synthetic flows best in low temps and doesn't breakdown in high temps.

Heavy oil (20W-50) was once required for Big Twins that ran hot and caused the (low quality conventional) oil to breakdown. Not an issue with most watercooled engines and current (high quality) oil.

You are forgiven...

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by dcj13

Talking about oil is a lot like discussing religion.

Originally Posted by jkv45

I have to disagree. Heavier is not better.

T6 5W-40 is a good all-around oil…

Synthetic flows best …

Heavy oil (20W-50) was once required…

You are forgiven...

Like I said…

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by jkv45

I have to disagree. Heavier is not better.

T6 5W-40 is a good all-around oil - even in hot temps. You want high flow, with no more pressure than needed, for lowest wear and best cooling. Heavier oils flow slower and build more pressure.

Synthetic flows best in low temps and doesn't breakdown in high temps.

Heavy oil (20W-50) was once required for Big Twins that ran hot and caused the (low quality conventional) oil to breakdown. Not an issue with most watercooled engines and current (high quality) oil.

You are forgiven...

10w-40 would be correct.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

That is so true, find a brand you like, make sure it's compatible with the wet clutch, and your set .

One more time maybe

[Ninja Rob]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Oh, and while you're in there, clean out the mesh screen. I cleaned mine out and I don't think the previous owner even knew it existed. There was so many pieces of metal in it I thought I'd have to buy a new one.

I`m want to ask but I'm scared to find out how metal gets in there.

[Ghostt]

Natural wear and tear

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

I`m want to ask but I'm scared to find out how metal gets in there.

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

I`m want to ask but I'm scared to find out how metal gets in there.

A lot also comes out during the break-in period, and I don't think the screen was ever cleaned so a lot of the metal in there was probably from that.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by alex.s

10w-40 would be correct.

5W-40 can be used any time a 10W-40 can, and is a much better choice when temps are below 50.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by jkv45

5W-40 can be used any time a 10W-40 can, and is a much better choice when temps are below 50.

that's an interesting theory that every single motorcycle manufacturer disagrees with.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by alex.s

that's an interesting theory that every single motorcycle manufacturer disagrees with.

Not a theory - it's the truth.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

One more time maybe

Oil viscosity is a proved and science, lower temperature, oil thickens, lower viscosity, means it's thinner, as the oil warms up as the engine runs, it thickens up to the final weight, top number, 40 wt so it makes no real difference once the engine is up to operating temperature.

That's the purpose of multi weight oils, if in doubt Google it.

[dcj13]

"Talking about oil is a lot like discussing religion."


See?

[jkv45]

Focusing on the scientific aspect of oil for a moment -

When thinking about how a multigrade oil works, you need to think in terms of the temperature the oil is being rated at.

For the "W" rating, that is 32 degrees F. For the higher rating, it's 212 degrees F. When a multigrade oil is a "10W-40", it acts like a straight 10-grade oil at 32 degrees F and it acts like a straight 40-grade oil at 212 degrees F.

Keep in mind, even a 10-grade oil is very thick at 32 degrees F when compared to a 40-grade at 212 degrees F. Oil does not flow well when cold, so going to a lower "W" rating like "5W" is a good idea as the temps drop.

In very cold temps even an oil rated at 5W doesn't flow enough, so a "0W" will give better lubrication (flow) and increase cranking speed - which also helps cold starting.

For most of us, a 5W synthetic is safe down to temps as low as we care to ride, but it has no penalty when used in higher temps because it is somewhere in-between the 5W (32F) and 40-grade (212F) rating.

[dcj13]

Oh yeah! Viscosity. Temperature. Saybolt seconds. Prandtl numbers. Loads. Pressure angles. RPM. Oil breaking down.

Pretty soon it's like talking to the Jehovah's Witness doorbellers on Saturday afternoon.

[JohnnyBravo]

I prefer coconut oil

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo

I prefer coconut oil

Many health benefits! What viscosity you like?

[JohnnyBravo]

Originally Posted by dcj13

Many health benefits! What viscosity you like?

That's a fact

Viscowhat?

Jesus is the reason for the season, you godless nazi

[Ninja Rob]

I have two choices, Autozone, or Orielly's. Here is the part and the description, it says that it doesn't include an anti-drain back valve, do I need that?
Additional Details
Anti-Drainback Valve Included: No
Bottom Inside Diameter (In): 0.750 Inch
Bypass Valve Included: No
Gasket Material: Nitrile Rubber
Gaskets Included: Yes
Height (mm): 56mm
Media: High Flow Premium Media
Outside Diameter (In): 3 Inch
Removal Nut Included: No
Style: Cartridge
Top Inside Diameter (mm): 19mm
Top Outside Diameter (mm): 76mm
Top Inside Diameter (In): 0.750 Inch

And here is the link:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=kn-401

Approve or disapprove?

[dcj13]

I'd be OK with that filter (as long as it's the right part number for my bike).

[MrAtom]

Looks good

[Ninja Rob]

Originally Posted by dcj13

I'd be OK with that filter (as long as it's the right part number for my bike).

What do you mean by "OK with that filter"?
I can't hear your tone so it sounds like there is a better filter, or do you mean that that is "THE" filter to use. Will I have to buy any other components or parts for it? Or is it fine with just that?

[jkv45]

If there's a NAPA close, get a NAPA Gold filter by WIX.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by Ninja Rob

What do you mean by "OK with that filter"?
I can't hear your tone so it sounds like there is a better filter, or do you mean that that is "THE" filter to use. Will I have to buy any other components or parts for it? Or is it fine with just that?

You're taking it the wrong way (you couldn't see my head nodding as I typed ). I'm comfortable with that choice. If I need a filter and I'm at the store and they have K&N, I'll buy it and use it. My KLR250 has a K&N in it.

I'm also comfortable with NAPA, Fram, Wix, and others. Life is easy as an oil unitarian! But I'll temper it with a little fire & brimstone:

Never (ever!) run too low on oil or coolant!


For me, OK, adequate, and acceptable are not bad words. In oil threads, I'll be happy to tell anyone what I would or wouldn't do, but I won't argue the position. Life's too short!

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by jkv45

If there's a NAPA close, get a NAPA Gold filter by WIX.

I like NAPA Gold, too! (Currently installed in my K75 and SL500).

[Ninja Rob]

Special order only. I called NAPA, Orielly's, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and the only motorcycle shops here are closed early on Saturdays and do not open on Sunday.

I guess in that case I will just order from Amazon.
While I am at it, I should just change the spark plug, what kind?