February 20th, 2010, 04:10 PM | #1 |
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Torque without a power wrench?
Just wondering how do I know how much torque I am putting on the bolt for the Oil Filter housing if I do not have some sort of electric wrench?
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February 20th, 2010, 04:18 PM | #2 |
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You don't need an electric wrench, you need a torque wrench. There are basically two types. One type you dial up a certain torque you're trying to reach, then as you tighten the bolt when it reaches the set torque you can hear it click and feel it give. The other type has a visible dial on it that measures the torque as you are applying it. Search for "torque wrench" on this board and you'll likely find a few other threads with more info. (or just scroll to the bottom of this page and it will automatically show similar threads that may be what you're looking for)
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February 20th, 2010, 04:22 PM | #3 |
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Run to your local Harbor Freight and pick one up for $20.
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February 20th, 2010, 04:23 PM | #4 |
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Ok thanks. I normally dont worry about torque as my other bike is old and seemed not to leak. Its good to know and will defently become helpful
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February 20th, 2010, 04:29 PM | #5 |
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Ok any suggestions how to get the bolt for the oil filter housing lose? Ive tried for 30mins and it wont budge. Counter clockwise right? Im afraid I will strip it. This is the first oil change its had so Im guessing it hasnt ben off since the factory.
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February 20th, 2010, 04:32 PM | #6 |
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/moving to New-Gen tech talk
Have you looked through the oil-change DIY yet? It's in the sticky thread in the tech section. There are some tips there to get through this step by step.
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February 20th, 2010, 04:34 PM | #7 |
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Yeah Ive looked at it. Ill look again.
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February 20th, 2010, 04:42 PM | #8 |
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You're right, I just opened it the thread myself and it doesn't have any more info other than just remove it. It's definitely counterclockwise. Sounds like Mongo the Wonder-Assembler put some extra oomph into yours at the factory.
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February 20th, 2010, 04:51 PM | #9 |
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Yeah I read it again and it gave me an idea. Since Im working with crap tools I hit the wratchet with a hammer and it broke free. Im glad I got it because the bolt was starting to look like it was getting near strip.
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February 24th, 2010, 04:22 PM | #10 |
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I use an old bicycle seat post as a "persuader" or breaker bar. Slips right over the socket wrench and gives a little more power to get the filter cover nut loose.
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February 25th, 2010, 03:16 AM | #11 |
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My dad told me as long as everything is tight that I shouldnt worry about the exact torque. Is this ok?
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February 25th, 2010, 07:29 AM | #12 |
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You should be fine on the Oil plug, just don't over torque it. But if you are working on more critical engine components, then torque settings are extremely important. If you plan on doing your own valves, then you should definately get one. You can buy a cheep torque wrench from harbor freight, it is worth the investment.
Also pick your self up a cheap 3/8 breaker bar, (a long one) then you can easily take off any bolt you ever come accross. If you are too cheep for a breaker bar, learn the box end wrench trick.
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February 25th, 2010, 07:35 AM | #13 |
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Using impact (hammer) on a bolt is not a good idea. It may work fine the first few times; however, it is easy to strip the head of the bold/plug then you have a big problem on your hands. Steady constant pressure with a lot of torque is the best way.
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February 28th, 2010, 02:52 PM | #14 |
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whats the box end wrench trick? i searched the web but didnt see anything that looked like it might be what youre talking about
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March 1st, 2010, 06:40 AM | #15 |
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This trick requires two (box end/open end) wrenches. Place the first wrenches box end over the bolt head. Then, link the second wrenches box end around the bottom prong of the first wrench as shown in the picture. This alows you to apply greater torque by pressing on the second wrench.
remember, that this is unidirectional and you will have to reverse the set up to turn clockwise. However, I would not recomend ever doing this as there is little need ever to apply this much force to tighten a bolt.
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March 1st, 2010, 06:55 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
(The trick with vice grips is to get them as tight as you possible can. Tighten them to the point where you can just bearly lock them by using all of your strength). As long as the threads are good, the bolt will come out and you'll save yourself from having to drill it out and tap a new hole. Through all bolt/plugs that show any signs of where in the trash and replace them. If it almost stripped this time, next time it will.
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March 1st, 2010, 12:33 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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March 1st, 2010, 12:45 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
My Sears Dig-Tork (the type you're referring to) will yield noticeably when it reaches the selected torque -- you can definitely feel it give -- but it will not "click" in the sense that a ratchet clicks. You MAY hear the innards reaching their stops as they yield, but there's no real "click." It's a small thing, but it can lead the uninitiated to keep pulling and pulling and pulling... looking for the click.... ouch. Hey, it's happened. Some guy here or over on KF was under the impression that the wrench would let go entirely when the torque target was reached. He way, WAY overtightened the fastener because he just didn't know when to stop. |
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March 1st, 2010, 01:59 PM | #19 |
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Makes sense. I think I have a craftsman one, and when it gives there is a little click. But you're right, the key part is the "give", not necessarily the click.
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March 1st, 2010, 09:23 PM | #20 |
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Buddy of mine has a snap on i think. Digital display and beep when set torque is reached. Nice when you can't see the display that well.
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March 15th, 2010, 09:11 PM | #21 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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March 16th, 2010, 10:53 AM | #22 |
ninjette.org sage
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my torque wrench from harbor freight survived the fire... not bad for $20
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