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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:12 PM   #1
zach
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Help me please! Carb Removal (I'm Stuck)

So trying to fix the wife's 2008 250. It was running while choked, but shuts off when taking off the choke. So, I figured it's the carbs. Drained it, ran Seafoam through it, didn't work. So, trying to get the carbs out to clean them. I'm stuck at the part where I get the airbox out of the way. I've separated the carbs from the intake, but the carbs are still connected to the airbox, and I cannot get enough clearance to get them out. I've even taken the tail off and pulled the rear fender down as much as I can but it doesn't make any difference in the airbox clearance. Everyone says in their how-tos to pull the airbox back etc, but I have yet to see how it's done. The only decent video i've found for carb removal is from Duck, God bless em, but he has aftermarket air filters and not the stock airbox. So, here I am, after watching about every video related to carb removals on youtube, and reading the entire wiki about it, which just says to unscrew the airbox, which I did, and then you can pull back the airbox for clearance. What the hell am I missing here?
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:22 PM   #2
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Link to original page on YouTube.

Not a very good vid but it's all I got when I recorded mine solo.

ps: my camera work sucks too

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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:23 PM   #3
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Go slow and take your time because it's very tight. You can see in my video, I didn't even take off the cables. lol
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:29 PM   #4
sLick415
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Pull airbox back, remove intake boots first.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sLick415 View Post
Pull airbox back, remove intake boots first.
lol, dude, did you not see where I said I separated from the intake boots already? And pull airbox back? That's the problem I'm having! haha, thanks for the reply anyways I guess...CSmith I appreciate it, I'm about to check out the video. Hope it will answer my questions. I'm about ready to trash her bike. haha
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:37 PM   #6
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Alright I still can't tell how you did it haha. If I've already separated the intake boots from the carbs, can you advise how to separate the airbox boots from the carbs? If I can get those boots off I'm sure I can get the carbs out. Some folks said you can roll the aribox boots back like a condom, that's not happening. And I don't see any clamps on the airbox boots like there are present on the intake boots.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:43 PM   #7
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Yea sorry, I was in front of my garage and didn't have a buddy to hold the camera while I actually pulled the carbs (needed both hands). But there are bands that need to be loosened from the airbox side of the carbs. Similar to the intake side. Once you get them loose, you just muscle and wiggle them out the side. I can tell you, your missing something simple because a new rider pulled his carbs solo before I got there to help him clean them. (no disrespect intended)

If you can hold off for one day, I will be pulling my carbs again and will have a beer buddy present to hold the cam. I can try to film the process a bit better. But I bet you will have it off by then.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:43 PM   #8
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Remove the boots from the intake, not just separate them from the carbs.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:46 PM   #9
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No disrespect taken, I know I'm missing something stupid. Just need fresh perspective Guess I'm missing the way to loosen up the boots from the carb to airbox. Since I've already separated from the intake I know I'd have just enough room to slide the carbs up and out, guess it's the airbox boots holding me back. I'll go check it out I reckon.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sLick415 View Post
Remove the boots from the intake, not just separate them from the carbs.
No need to do that, really there isn't. If you watch my vid, I take off as little as possible. No cables to remove, ect.. ect.. You literally work on the carbs hanging out the side of the bike by the throttle and other cables. It's like open heart surgery lol.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 05:53 PM   #11
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I had already taken off the cables/throttle etc. I have no problem with that stuff, I've pretty much done everything except remove the carbs in the past, obviously. I think I see what's holding the clamps tight connecting the boots from the carbs to airbox, but it's not a Phillips head like the clamps on the intake boots, and it doesn't even look like an Allen wrench head. It looks like a circular pocketed screw, if that makes sense. I'm assuming it's just a small Allen wrench but it's getting dark and I'm having difficulties seeing, Guess I'll start again tomorrow.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 06:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
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No need to do that, really there isn't. If you watch my vid, I take off as little as possible. No cables to remove, ect.. ect.. You literally work on the carbs hanging out the side of the bike by the throttle and other cables. It's like open heart surgery lol.
Interesting, I'll have to check that out later when I have time.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 07:04 PM   #13
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Did you remove the battery and battery box? With the two bolts holding the airbox in and removing the battery box, the airbox will move back about an inch which is just barley enough to get the boots off.

Also I think the screw to the airbox boot is a 3mm hex

Last futzed with by willis9076; August 6th, 2013 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Additional Info
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Old August 6th, 2013, 08:17 PM   #14
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Noooooooo don't do it and just shoot yourself in the head now, it's less painful
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Old August 6th, 2013, 08:46 PM   #15
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Zach I just did this song and dance last week. I'm going to ask the same thing willis9076 did. Did you remove the batter tray? I have a '08 and my battery tray came out real easy. I guess some models have the tray and airbox molded as one piece?? I don't know but mine was super easy to remove and I think has to be done to allow the airbox to move back. I think there is 2 or 3 screws that hold the airbox in place.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 08:56 PM   #16
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I guess some models have the tray and airbox molded as one piece??
The pregen battery box and airbox is one piece. I am confused at what bike Zack is working on. This bike list shows new gen models but the profile pick shows a pregen. I found the pregen carb removal a bit more "involved". lol
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Old August 6th, 2013, 09:56 PM   #17
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rojoracing53 has the best suggestion so far.

@cmith12: He's working on my bike and it's a 2009 (He said it's 2008 but I told him the wrong year... not that I think it matters anyway). The bike in his pic was pregen, may she rest in peace. The battery and box, and everything else for that matter, has been removed and we're down to the guts.

My question is how the box is even capable of sliding back when there's no clearance between it and the frame, and there's also some type of tab at the back bottom of the box that prevents it from moving. Moving the box back and forth rocks the whole bike like it's still bolted down somewhere.

If it doesn't come out soon, the whole thing is getting kicked down the stairs.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 10:12 PM   #18
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No need to do that, really there isn't. If you watch my vid, I take off as little as possible. No cables to remove, ect.. ect.. You literally work on the carbs hanging out the side of the bike by the throttle and other cables. It's like open heart surgery lol.
Dang. I wanted to see the actual removal. I can never get it out without removing the intake boots first.
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Old August 6th, 2013, 10:18 PM   #19
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My question is how the box is even capable of sliding back when there's no clearance between it and the frame, and there's also some type of tab at the back bottom of the box that prevents it from moving. Moving the box back and forth rocks the whole bike like it's still bolted down somewhere.
Incase you aren't aware, there are 2 bolts that hold the airbox: one at the top right side towards the rear, the other at the bottom left side towards the front (shown at 01:45 in Chris's video). You should be able to move the airbox about an inch if it's free.
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Old August 7th, 2013, 04:15 AM   #20
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Keep in mind that the air box only moves like 1/2" back at best so if your expecting move then that may also be your problem. Just make sure you get it all done right this time so you don't have to do it again, and for god sacks don't go buy pod filters.
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Old August 7th, 2013, 07:32 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sLick415 View Post
Dang. I wanted to see the actual removal. I can never get it out without removing the intake boots first.
I find that once the carbs are pulled out of the intake boots, it's easier if you angle it down. I start by pushing the carbs down and out of the intake boots. At that angle, the airbox boots are not such a big deal anymore. When putting it back in, that same angle gets them cleanly into the airbox boots but does take a screwdriver and some muscle to get the intake boots back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetB View Post
My question is how the box is even capable of sliding back when there's no clearance between it and the frame, and there's also some type of tab at the back bottom of the box that prevents it from moving. Moving the box back and forth rocks the whole bike like it's still bolted down somewhere.
Does it move at all or only slide back alittle? Can you take a few pics to show where your currently at?
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:02 AM   #22
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You can move the airbox back about an inch. I worked mine back to the point that the 'peg' came out of the rubber gromet up top on the right side. Like slick says you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the box in place. They are kind of tucked away, at least the one on the left side down towards the footpeg is. Once I got the airbox to move back I removed the boots to the intake, that will give you an inch or so of room in front of the carbs. I took the screw out of the clamp on the boot from the airbox to the carb and popped the clamp apart with my finger to make sure if was free from the seat it made in the rubber. Don't know if it was necessary but the carbs came out real easy. Then just wiggle the carbs out of the boots on the airbox.

I don't know if you guys removed your gas tank but I did.
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Old August 7th, 2013, 03:52 PM   #23
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I Appreciate All The Responses. As For The Bike, I Was Wrong, Its An 09 But All The Same Anyways. The Pregen In The Picture Was My First Bike (RIP). This One I'm Working On Is My Wifes. I Have A 650. Anyways, I've Done All The Bolt Removals Etc, I figured Out I Was Getting The Max Clearance I Was Going To Get, And Figured Out After Separating Carbs From Intake Boots I Could Get It Out But I Never CouLd See The Clamps Holding The Boots From The AirBox To Carbs. I Finally Found It And As Previous Poster Said It Looks Like 3Mm Hex. I Just Had To Work Today And Haven't Had A Chance To Try It OuT. Will Let Ya Know!
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Old August 7th, 2013, 04:15 PM   #24
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Don't worrie the second time I removed my carbs it went a lot smoother, it was getting them back in that was a F***ing nightmare. The F***ing airbox boots kept folding on one side and it would side over the carbs. Took me like an hour of F***ing cussing at the bike and using all my will power to not kick it over before I got it to seat properly.

Like I tell 250 owners, ill help you work on your bike but I won't take your carbs out. Instead ill simply sit back and enjoy your agony.
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Old August 8th, 2013, 12:03 AM   #25
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=70526

Slick explained his process to me at the bottom

The airbox is held in place by 2 bolts (top right towards the rear, bottom left towards the front). You should be able to move it back at least an inch after removing the battery.

These are my steps to removing the carbs:

1. Remove battery and its holder.
2. Remove both bolts holding down the airbox.
3. Loosen all clamps on the engine boots.
4. Pull airbox back as far as you can so carbs clear the boots.
5. Remove engine boots.
6. Loosen airbox boots.
7. Slide carbs forward to clear boots.
8. Slide carbs through the left side. (Bracket for idle adjuster must be removed)

Putting them back in is exactly in reverse.


I had an issue where my air box wouldn't moved, confirmed by another member, and we eventually got it to break free and wiggle back
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Old August 8th, 2013, 11:17 AM   #26
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Not sure why everyone hates this job. It's really not that bad. @dwright0723 (brand new rider with his first bike) and had them out ready for me to help him with them. We had them back in and the bike running in less than a 1/2 an hour, counting the time I took to clean them.

I dunno, guess it's just not EASY like people want.
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Old August 8th, 2013, 11:32 AM   #27
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I think people just make it complicated than it really is.
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Old August 9th, 2013, 09:49 AM   #28
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I second that. Last week was the first time I turned a screw on the 08 and thought the carbs were very easy to remove. I was worried when I was studying up reading post before I started. Just take off the things that are in the way = no problem.
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Old August 11th, 2013, 09:02 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith12 View Post
Not sure why everyone hates this job. It's really not that bad. @dwright0723 (brand new rider with his first bike) and had them out ready for me to help him with them. We had them back in and the bike running in less than a 1/2 an hour, counting the time I took to clean them.

I dunno, guess it's just not EASY like people want.
Yup! Took no time at all! It was harder the first time I took them off, but not that bad. After that, it's a breeze!
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Old August 11th, 2013, 04:41 PM   #30
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I had to clean the carbs on the 250 I have as it sat for 6 months or so, they are one of the more difficult motorcycles to get the carbs out of. I removed the air box screws and also pulled all the motor mount bolts except the bottom rear one, this allowed the motor to pivot ahead and gave me a ton of room, I would guess it only adds about 10 minutes of work. You may have to loosen or remove the back wheel to give the chain enough slack.
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Old August 13th, 2013, 08:17 PM   #31
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they are a pain to remove and you have to take them out the left side. just takes a lot of time and working them back and forth. it does get easier. I had to remove the 3 times
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