Installing a hitch

Dano · September 5th, 2010, 01:17 PM

Ok so I am planning on installing a trailer hitch to my wifes 2010 Chevy Equinox, the ones sold are no drilling so should be pretty easy to install, they run under $200 for the hitch, the wiring is $50 plug and play then gotta buy the ball. So here is my question should I get the Class III or Class II seems to me the only difference on the specs is thaat the III comes with a 2" reciever and the the II comes with a 1 1/4" reciever.

I am a complete novice to the whole towing thing, not driving them but installing and purchasing them. I plan on using it for a bike rack and a small trailer for the bike and I always need something at the home depot so it would be nice to have it for that. Please help me decide.

Alex · September 5th, 2010, 02:17 PM

If the truck can take a class III, I'd install that. In terms of the draw bar that you install into the hitch later, no matter what you want to tow you can get the appropriate draw bar to fit either the 1 1/4" or the 2".

BlueRaven · September 5th, 2010, 06:48 PM

What size engine does she have? Looks like your towing capacity ranges from 1500 lbs to 3500 lbs depending on the model. the LS FWD V6 model will need a class I and only has the towing capacity of 1500 lbs while all other models can handle a class II and can tow a max of 3500 lbs.

Dano · September 5th, 2010, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueRaven

What size engine does she have? Looks like your towing capacity ranges from 1500 lbs to 3500 lbs depending on the model. the LS FWD V6 model will need a class I and only has the towing capacity of 1500 lbs while all other models can handle a class II and can tow a max of 3500 lbs.

It has a 4 cyl 180 hp. its a LT model, there are Class III and II available, the Class IIs are a good bit cheaper. Is there an advantage of getting the class III vs the II.

Theres a Curt brand(never heard of) Class III for $145 and a Draw Tite Class II for $128, which is better brand.

Snake · September 5th, 2010, 08:07 PM

Having only a 4 cyl. engine it is probably a better idea to go with the class II hitch so you do not overload the vehicle.

Minnesotah · September 5th, 2010, 08:13 PM

I work for a trailer company in portland oregon, I would say install the class III hitch onto the vehicle. It gives you the ability to use any ball and stinger combination out there. As for not overloading your car, that is your responsibility to know your limits just like a bike.

As for your brands question, I personally buy Draw-Tite and the Reese brand. I have never had a Draw-tite hitch or a reese hitch come back as long as i have been selling them. Brands to stay away from would be valley, its a cheap brand welds are weak.

mrlmd · September 6th, 2010, 07:27 AM

You can ask the manufacturer or look in the specs for the towing weight limit and hitch weight limit for your car, but the class II hitch is probably the one rated for your car, the class III may be too heavy. Besides engine size and power, you have to consider size of springs and shocks of the vehicle to avoid handling and suspension problems. Either size receiver is OK, you just have to get the proper size draw bar, obviously. One advantage of the 2" receiver is that you can get a sleeve to fit over an 1 1/4" accessory bar, like for a bike carrier if that 's the only size it comes in, (most of the Thule bike racks are a 1 1/4" bar but come with the sleeve so they can fit either size hitch) but it's less advantageous to go the other way, ie., to get a 1 1/4" bar with a 2" receiver outer end to adapt to a 2" draw bar accessory, (Harbor Freight, $11-12) as it puts the weight of the load another foot out from the back of the car (not good because of the extra leverage and effective weight on the hitch).
I think you should get the class II 2" receiver hitch for the loads you want to pull, unless the vehicle is rated to accept the class III (so you may be able to pull something heavier in the future).

Sailariel · September 6th, 2010, 07:24 PM

I have a Pontiac Vibe--same same as Toyota Matrix with a class III hitch. We bought a 4x8 Landscape trailer from Home Depot, put down a floor of 3/4 plywood and used 2x4's to form a track down the centre for the bike. The bike is stabilized with webbing and travels well. There is no need to get fancy.

September 5th, 2010, 01:17 PM	#1
Dano ninjette.org sage Name: Dan Location: Perryopolis, PA Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09' Blue Ninja 250R and 07' Honda 919 Posts: 605	Installing a hitch Ok so I am planning on installing a trailer hitch to my wifes 2010 Chevy Equinox, the ones sold are no drilling so should be pretty easy to install, they run under $200 for the hitch, the wiring is $50 plug and play then gotta buy the ball. So here is my question should I get the Class III or Class II seems to me the only difference on the specs is thaat the III comes with a 2" reciever and the the II comes with a 1 1/4" reciever. I am a complete novice to the whole towing thing, not driving them but installing and purchasing them. I plan on using it for a bike rack and a small trailer for the bike and I always need something at the home depot so it would be nice to have it for that. Please help me decide.

September 5th, 2010, 02:17 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	If the truck can take a class III, I'd install that. In terms of the draw bar that you install into the hitch later, no matter what you want to tow you can get the appropriate draw bar to fit either the 1 1/4" or the 2". __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

September 5th, 2010, 06:48 PM	#3
BlueRaven ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Lil One Location: NB Canada Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250 Black Posts: A lot.	What size engine does she have? Looks like your towing capacity ranges from 1500 lbs to 3500 lbs depending on the model. the LS FWD V6 model will need a class I and only has the towing capacity of 1500 lbs while all other models can handle a class II and can tow a max of 3500 lbs. __________________________________________________ I'm not small, I'm fun sized

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September 5th, 2010, 08:07 PM	#5
Snake ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rick Location: Alexandria, Louisiana Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Blue Ninja 250 Posts: Too much. MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14	Having only a 4 cyl. engine it is probably a better idea to go with the class II hitch so you do not overload the vehicle.

September 5th, 2010, 08:13 PM	#6
Minnesotah Did you get him? Name: Myke Location: Portland, Oregon Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 2fiddy SE Posts: 54	I work for a trailer company in portland oregon, I would say install the class III hitch onto the vehicle. It gives you the ability to use any ball and stinger combination out there. As for not overloading your car, that is your responsibility to know your limits just like a bike. As for your brands question, I personally buy Draw-Tite and the Reese brand. I have never had a Draw-tite hitch or a reese hitch come back as long as i have been selling them. Brands to stay away from would be valley, its a cheap brand welds are weak.

September 6th, 2010, 07:27 AM	#7
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	You can ask the manufacturer or look in the specs for the towing weight limit and hitch weight limit for your car, but the class II hitch is probably the one rated for your car, the class III may be too heavy. Besides engine size and power, you have to consider size of springs and shocks of the vehicle to avoid handling and suspension problems. Either size receiver is OK, you just have to get the proper size draw bar, obviously. One advantage of the 2" receiver is that you can get a sleeve to fit over an 1 1/4" accessory bar, like for a bike carrier if that 's the only size it comes in, (most of the Thule bike racks are a 1 1/4" bar but come with the sleeve so they can fit either size hitch) but it's less advantageous to go the other way, ie., to get a 1 1/4" bar with a 2" receiver outer end to adapt to a 2" draw bar accessory, (Harbor Freight, $11-12) as it puts the weight of the load another foot out from the back of the car (not good because of the extra leverage and effective weight on the hitch). I think you should get the class II 2" receiver hitch for the loads you want to pull, unless the vehicle is rated to accept the class III (so you may be able to pull something heavier in the future).

September 6th, 2010, 07:24 PM	#8
Sailariel ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Alex Location: Belfast, ME Join Date: Jul 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Honda NT-700-V, formerly, Green 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	I have a Pontiac Vibe--same same as Toyota Matrix with a class III hitch. We bought a 4x8 Landscape trailer from Home Depot, put down a floor of 3/4 plywood and used 2x4's to form a track down the centre for the bike. The bike is stabilized with webbing and travels well. There is no need to get fancy.