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Old April 28th, 2012, 04:43 PM   #1
DevinWolfe
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All Jets Feel the Same

So I have yanked my airbox and switched to K&N R-0990, removed Kleen Air system and plugged the "chimney," as well as Swapped in 3 different sets of jets. I am also running a Yoshi slip-on w/ silencer.

I have 108, 110, and 112.


A/F mix screws set to 2 turns out as recommended on a different board (couldn't find a recommendation for A/F screws while determining main jet size here) and I have swapped in all 3 different sets of jets. They all felt pretty much the same 7-8K to redline @ WOT. The only realy noticeable difference to me was that the 112 seems to bog more at the lower end pulling away from a stop. I wouldn't think main jet would have that effect in the low end.

They ALL feel way better than stock, but that may be a placebo effect from that roaring intake /shrug.

Ideas?


TL;DR

-K&N R-0990
-Kleen Air removed
-Yoshi Slip-on w/ silencer
-A/F screws set 2 turns out
-No shims
-108, 110, and 112 jets feel the same
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:24 PM   #2
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In the process

I am about to do the same mods, with a full exhaust. I have not done it yet, but from my understanding the main jet is for higher rpms, and the needle setting is for lower rpms. I could be mistaken, wrong, or only partly right. Here is a pic that might help explain what I am saying. Not sure I can provide much else to help. Did you change out the exhaust? Sync the carbs?



RD
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:29 PM   #3
DevinWolfe
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Those were my thoughts as well, the pic didn't come through but I assume it is the graph of which jets work when/where. THe only thing I can think of is that even the 108 is pig rich for my setup and the rest were even worse.

I forgot to add that I have a Yoshi slip-on, added to orignal post.

Have not synced the carbs, it has always been listed as the last thing to do after tuning so I was waiting to get my jets, shims, and A/F correct first.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:41 PM   #4
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What brand jets?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:44 PM   #5
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if the 108 and 110 feel the same at WOT, and the 112 bogs a little bit, stick with the 110

You're high enough in the mountains that you likely are closer to right with a 108, but it's always good for a street bike to be a little rich to compensate for cold days.

If you're worried about making sure the bike is running acceptable AFR's, take it to a shop to get a baseline dyno run. As long as there's no bogging or surging, there shouldn't be an issue.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:48 PM   #6
DevinWolfe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Keihin Genuine.

I went through that thread and found that a decent starting point would be the 108.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10640

That thread also shows 108 as the lower end without airbox, so I went with that as I only have a slip-on.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:49 PM   #7
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Well I could always "borrow" my wideband from my car (nitrous) to check out my AFR that way, but then I would have to find a bung and a shop to weld it onto the tiny stock pipes. Knoxville is actually only around 1100 ft where I ride (work/home) and I think Deal's Gap is only a few hundred higher than that, but I'm really not sure.

Guess I *could* pull the plugs...
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:50 PM   #8
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could you just ghetto rig the bung into the exhaust pipe temporarily?
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:52 PM   #9
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That far back I would think even on a bike my readings would lean as hell compared to actual. First time I have messed with fuel stuff on a bike so I may be mistaken.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 06:38 PM   #10
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Have you ever considered using a correction factor based on altitude and temperature? See Motorcycle Carburetor Theory 101-Altitude, Humidity, and Air Temperature

I'd stick with the 108 main based on your set up, even for riding around the Dragon. While up at the Dragon you can go to Wheeler's Performance on 129 and get on the Dyno.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 07:49 PM   #11
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Well I just took her out with the 112 jets to video WOT runs to time compared to the others. Already dark and I don't want to risk getting a ticket so I will have to do 110 and 108 tomorrow.

I'm doing 3rd gear 45mph (~8K I think, can't remmber now but it'll be in the vid) -redline pulls.

If 108 is better than the other 2 I may grab some 106s later.

Gotta get my bases covered before I got nitrous and turbo (joke).
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Old April 29th, 2012, 05:17 PM   #12
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@DevinWolfe

Same mods, 2 Bros instead of Yoshi. I'm running a 110.

Check your plugs are the runs and see how they look. Maybe you can get some clues there? If they feel the same I would go with the biggest one that won't bog you down so you are on the rich side and safe. Pretty sure you know all of this stuff though.

Oh, if you want to ride my bike for comparison let me know.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:00 PM   #13
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Well, after switching back to 110, I found that it is a little stronger than the 112, camera didn't record so I can't compare video yet. Now it is down to the 108 and the 110.

I have to ride a mile to get back to my garage from Clinton Hwy, so I would have to check the plugs on the side of the road to be really accurate for a WOT run. That really doesn't appeal to me, but I will do it I can't feel any difference between 108 and 110

I'm thinking my butt-dyno just needs to be calibrated...

@TnNinjaGirl I may take you up on that, I just hate the thought of WOT on someone elses bike. Never liked driving other's cars but a bike is a lot more personal.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:03 PM   #14
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Doesn't bother me. I bought the thing to ride it. Besides, if you blow it up it gives me an excuse to put a 500 or 650 motor in it. Let me know when you have some free time. I'll check my schedule. There is a really good road in the Karns Industrial Park off of Oak Ridge Hwy that is really good for WOT testing and what not.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:13 PM   #15
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Doesn't bother me. I bought the thing to ride it.



go for a ninja 400 engine swap!!! EFI, and the perfect size engine without worries of having too much for the frame.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:16 PM   #16
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Ninja 400? I did not know this existed.....
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:17 PM   #17
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It's a canadian model

it might be hard to find the parts for it, but if you can, it would completely be worth it. It's small enough that the engine would fit.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:22 PM   #18
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Sorry for the OT, Devin....

Thought about putting an air cooled KLX250 or something in it. Especially after riding that SV650 today. She just needs more POWAH!!!!
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:23 PM   #19
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The ninja 400 is a ninja 650 engine, just with smaller pistons n crap
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:34 PM   #20
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The ninja 400 is a ninja 650 engine, just with smaller pistons n crap
How much faster would the bike be?
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:35 PM   #21
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Than stock? The 650 is double the HP, so.... fast!
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:37 PM   #22
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and all that torque!!!!!
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:46 PM   #23
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Sorry for the OT, Devin....
Heh, don't mind me, OT is about all I do in most threads, I would be a hypocrite to be bothered by it.

Besides this thread is really just more of a way to think aloud than actually looking for direct answers as I know carb tuning is such a finicky ordeal.


I do wonder if insurance would need to know it has an aftermarket engine. Might be something worth looking into if my engine ever does take a s*** on me from all that neck wringing.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:49 PM   #24
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I do wonder if insurance would need to know it has an aftermarket engine. Might be something worth looking into if my engine ever does take a s*** on me from all that neck wringing.
a) your engine will be fine, because mine is still fine

b) no, don't tell insurance
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Old April 29th, 2012, 06:52 PM   #25
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I missed a shift today and completely overrevved the engine. She ran fine all day. I usually run the Gap between 8-redline the whole time. 11,000 miles later and she still purrs like a kitten.

With that said, I change the oil religiously with Mobil1 and a K&N oil filter. I think she has a long life left ahead of her. These engines seem pretty bullet proof (knock on wood).

Oh, I went from Knoxville (1000 ft) to Clingman's Dome (6600 ft) today and there was no real change in performance.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 02:53 AM   #26
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Quote:
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It's a canadian model

it might be hard to find the parts for it, but if you can, it would completely be worth it. It's small enough that the engine would fit.
also uk "er4f" and new zealand "400r"

Engine 399 cc (24.3 cu in) DOHC 8 valves, liquid cooled parallel twin
Bore / Stroke 68.4 × 54.3 mm (2.69 × 2.14 in)
Compression ratio 11:1
Power 32 kW (43 hp) @ 9,500 rpm
Torque 37 N·m (27 lbf·ft) 7,500 rpm
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