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Old June 10th, 2018, 08:10 PM   #1
Zww1019
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Headlight fuse blown and now bike won’t start—occurred simultaneously

I drive my 250r daily, and randomly It didn’t want to start one morning. No clicking, no attempt to turnover, no nothing. I checked the fuses and saw the headlight fuse was blown so I replaced It. The bike still doesn’t attempt to start at all. Could these be related?

Edit: Based on the wiring diagram could It be the headlight or starter relay?

UPDATE:

I drive my 250r daily, and randomly It didn’t want to start one morning. No clicking, no attempt to turnover, no nothing. I checked the fuses and saw the headlight fuse was blown so I replaced It. The bike still doesn’t attempt to start at all. Could these be related?

Based on the wiring diagram could It be the headlight or starter relay?

Edit: Battery voltage is good and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.

Update:

Battery tested with multimeter; 12.5V off, 12.4V with ignition on, no change when ignition button is pressed.

Clutch lever and kickstand lever bypassed with no results

**Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start with the starter solenoid bypassed.

****Possible buzzing coming from CDI ignition module (I indistincly heard a very minimal and slight buzzing from under back seat rest, upon removing the CDI box I (think) I could no longer hear the buzzing). Would this cause my symptoms, and is there anyway to test—from what I’ve read it’s only possible to test with a new CDI ignition module, and only causes no spark issues.

Last futzed with by Zww1019; June 18th, 2018 at 06:12 PM.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 07:08 AM   #2
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MOTM - Oct '16
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
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Old June 11th, 2018, 07:12 AM   #3
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
Yeah, I probably should have clarified this. The voltage is good on the battery and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 08:44 AM   #4
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Jump the starter relay and see if it spins over.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 10:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Yeah, I probably should have clarified this. The voltage is good on the battery and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.
Not that is there voltage, but what is the voltage?

- voltage of battery with everything off
- voltage of battery when hitting start button
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Old June 12th, 2018, 07:38 AM   #6
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did you check the ignition fuse?
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Old June 18th, 2018, 04:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Not that is there voltage, but what is the voltage?

- voltage of battery with everything off
- voltage of battery when hitting start button


Voltage with key off: 12.5V. When ignition is turned on it changes to 12.4V, and pressing the ignition does not change the Voltage
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Old June 18th, 2018, 04:41 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cbinker View Post
did you check the ignition fuse?
Yes, all fuses are good except the headlight fuse which I replaced
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Old June 18th, 2018, 05:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Voltage with key off: 12.5V. When ignition is turned on it changes to 12.4V, and pressing the ignition does not change the Voltage
Check the starter relay and the wiring to and from the starter button. Cross the starter relay terminals with a large screwdriver to "jump" it (sparks may fly) and see if the starter spins.

The lack of change in the voltage tells you there is no power being sent to the starter.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:00 PM   #10
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Jump the starter relay and see if it spins over.
Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:13 PM   #11
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
Read above, thx for response!
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:32 PM   #12
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Check the starter relay and the wiring to and from the starter button. Cross the starter relay terminals with a large screwdriver to "jump" it (sparks may fly) and see if the starter spins.

Edit: Thanks for the help and quick respond btw!

The lack of change in the voltage tells you there is no power being sent to the starter.
I updated my post to add this, but I did try bypassing the starter relay:

“Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start with the starter solenoid bypassed.

****Possible buzzing coming from CDI ignition module (I indistincly heard a very minimal and slight buzzing from under back seat rest, upon removing the CDI box I (think) I could no longer hear the buzzing). Would this cause my symptoms, and is there anyway to test—from what I’ve read it’s only possible to test with a new CDI ignition module, and only causes no spark issues.”
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start.
Ok, now measure battery voltage WHEN you short the starter-relay. Dash dims, so battery-voltage must be low. What is battery-voltage when dash dims?



Also did you check 30-amp fuse? Meaning pull it out and measure resistance between legs?
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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:09 PM   #14
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Ok, now measure battery voltage WHEN you short the starter-relay. Dash dims, so battery-voltage must be low. What is battery-voltage when dash dims?



Also did you check 30-amp fuse? Meaning pull it out and measure resistance between legs?
Okay, so after jumping the solenoid, when I checked the battery again The Voltage jumped around (with ignition off It sat ~12.4), It settled down ~7 when I turned ignition on. Then when jumping solenoid again It immediately jumped down to ~0.7 and fluctuating a lot

Edit: It’s now sitting at 12.1 with ignition on, not jumping solenoid. Jumping solenoid again caused It to go up to 18V then down to fluctuating ~.2-.3....sitting st 7.4 now


Edit 2: Ive only checked fuses by looking at them, and It looks fine. If i put the multimeter on It “Ohm”, It fluctuates then shows “0.L”
If I knew how to attach image I could show you, but that basically describes It. And yes pic you showed is what I googled to find the starter solenoid lol
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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Okay, so after jumping the solenoid, when I checked the battery again The Voltage jumped around (with ignition off It sat ~12.4), It settled down ~7 when I turned ignition on. Then when jumping solenoid again It immediately jumped down to ~0.7 and fluctuating a lot

Edit: It’s now sitting at 12.1 with ignition on, not jumping solenoid. Jumping solenoid again caused It to go up to 18V then down to fluctuating ~.2-.3....sitting st 7.4 now
Dead battery. Good battery shouldn't drop below 10v when cranking starter.

Final test: find car with good battery that starts car. Leave car off, jumper car's battery to your bike's battery. Wiggle jumper-cables on both ends to bite into terminals and ensure good tight connection. Try starting bike now.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:39 PM   #16
Zww1019
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Dead battery. Good battery shouldn't drop below 10v when cranking starter.

Final test: find car with good battery that starts car. Leave car off, jumper car's battery to your bike's battery. Wiggle jumper-cables on both ends to bite into terminals and ensure good tight connection. Try starting bike now.
Well I’ll Be damned. I’ve already tried jumping with my neighbors bike...
I connected to my truck battery (turned off), and It started right up.

So new battery and that’s it?

EDIT:
It started right up with the starter solenoid bypassed. Won’t crank without jumping solenoid starter. So what next? New fuse/starter solenoid/battery?

Thanks—really appreciate It!
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Old Yesterday, 06:33 AM   #17
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MOTM - Nov '17
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.L on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.L n your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to run/no-run switch to start-button.
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Old Yesterday, 07:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.L on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.L n your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to run/no-run switch to start-button.
^ This is the next step.

More info - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Unders...afety_switches
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Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM   #19
Zww1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.L on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.L n your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to run/no-run switch to start-button.


I checked the clutch and kickstand relay switches and they seem fine. So bypassing the starter solenoid relay only helps narrow down the problem? It doesn’t mean that replacing the starter solebiud will fix It? And should I still replace the starter solenoid?

Also I tried following the wiring and still haven’t been able to find anything, the bike is pretty well stripped so I’m able to follow It most of the way. Since the ignition button itself does nothing—no click of noise or anything, like it’s not even there—would this help narrow It down?
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Old Yesterday, 03:08 PM   #20
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MOTM - Nov '17
Nope, you need to confirm starter-relay is actually bad before replacing it. You'd be replacing a perfectly-working part with brand-new perfectly-working part and nothing will change. Your bike still wont' start because you haven't tested, measured and confirmed failed parts. Measure for +12v on yellow/red activation line going into relay when you push start-button.

1. IF there's power on that line AND relay doesn't click & power starter, THEN starter-relay is bad... however

2. IF there's NO power on starter-relay activation line, then you can't conclude that relay is bad. You've got switch-problem somewhere with series of switches starting from ignition-switch.


https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=312718


DID YOU MEASURE the kickstand switch and neutral switches? What resistance values did you get? Do the following tests and get numbers.

1. resistance between kickstand-switch connector terminals with kickstand UP and DOWN. What's the numbers?

2. resistance between neutral-switch and chassis-ground with bike in gear and in NEUTRAL. What's the resistance numbers?

3. resistance between clutch-switch connector terminals with clutch-lever OUT and SQUEEZED-IN. What's the numbers?
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