New here & lookin to rebuild

[GreasedLissik]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

Make sure your side stand is retracted when you release the clutch lever.

Bill

Thanks Bill, but imsure have the kick stand up because that 250 has been on its center stand for about two month, but since i put this 300 in there im having problems, just like how got to get my 3rd battery within 1 year, i went to e min charged and when they gave it back they said it was no good.

so i tried to drop the clutch , and the bike wouldn't even move even with me holding the clutch down.

and that pinging noise i think is the air-purge-SOL,


Edit: forgot to mention that when I was put there today, I noticed that I had exhaust coming out of the header/ cylinder head, but I am 100% sure that there is a flange be crushed.

[DannoXYZ]

Then measure actual resistance of kickstand-switch and make sure it's has correct ohms as dictated by FSM. It's very, very easy for switch to get mis-aligned and not triggered properly by kickstand. It doesn't matter one bit if kickstand is up or not, it's state of switch that counts.

In fact, on my race-bike, I don't even have kickstand and bracket is ground completely off frame. But guess what? I still have kickstand-switch and it must be depressed for bike to start and run.

[GreasedLissik]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Then measure actual resistance of kickstand-switch and make sure it's has correct ohms as dictated by FSM. It's very, very easy for switch to get mis-aligned and not triggered properly by kickstand. It doesn't matter one bit if kickstand is up or not, it's state of switch that counts.

In fact, on my race-bike, I don't even have kickstand and bracket is ground completely off frame. But guess what? I still have kickstand-switch and it must be depressed for bike to start and run.

Thanks Danno, I’ll check it out, I’ll look for the ohms rating. If I plug the two independent plugs in on the chassis, it should of worked right?

[DannoXYZ]

Which plugs are you referring to?

Find and circle them on wiring-diagram and we can figure what state they need to be in.

There’s complex boolean AND/OR logic using diodes and multiple switches involved on both positive and ground circuits.

[GreasedLissik]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

There’s complex boolean AND/OR logic using diodes and multiple switches involved on both positive and ground circuits.

It’s on the left(drivers)side of the carburetors. I can’t seem to find the ohmage on both of my PDFs

[GreasedLissik]

I found how to check the sidestand:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checki..._safety_switch
It was found last night, but haven’t read all of it yet for the ohmsbut I have a felling it’s the on the chassis harness , for my problem atleast

[DannoXYZ]

That's testing the clutch switch.

You need to measure sidestand switch (with kickstand down, then test again with kickstand up).

Also measure neutral switch as well.

[GreasedLissik]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

That's testing the clutch switch.
Also measure neutral switch as well.

Ok will do, last time I took a look that lower end of the bike was super oily/greasy, so I’m going to tear apart the side switch when I go down time at work:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleani..._clutch_switch

And for some reason I can’t get my left handed electronics to line up properly, any comments? I will take a picture tomorrow, sorry if it’s dark but it’s at 0500 @ PST.
Thank you everyone who has contributed and I hope this thread moves to help others.

[DannoXYZ]

There’s little hole in handlebar that you need line up under left-hand switch.

Again, measure and test parts before tearing them apart. Very possible to make matters worse by damaging perfectly-working parts.

And due to shutdown symptoms when releasing clutch, the clutch-switch is working!! That’s the correct behavior when your sidestand switch is broken! It thinks your kickstand is down and kills engine as safety procedure. There is nothing you can do with clutch-switch to change this as it’s working as designed and intended.

Again, problem is NOT clutch switch, it’s your KICKSTAND/SIDESTAND switch that’s broken.

NOT clutch switch.

SIDESTAND switch!!!


Here’s a test:

1. put kickstand DOWN and try taking off by letting out clutch, what happens? It dies!!!
2. put kickstand UP and try taking off by letting out clutch, what happens? It dies!!!

Exact same behavior with kickstand down OR up shows KICKSTAND SWITCH is broken. Clutch switch is operating as it should.

[GreasedLissik]

I can’t remember what I did to fix that, but I worked though it, so as we all take risks I took one and got this 300 out of Craigslist, it after a cool minute, I don’t even think I put mileage on the bike, but the crankshaft was shot, and I had taken it to a well known race shop, it should be finished soon, but little as we know; I then put the 250 crank and rods in there to have have this bike running again, and it worked for 187 miles, until the timing jumped and now I am waiting on picking up a tensor, and chain. Not to mention that the intake cam shaft broke when the timing jumped. I am waiting on a carb jet kit to rejet the carbs.
But now I might be sitting on 250 cams because I don’t have the money to drop 70$ on 300 cams I would rather buy aftermarket cams, did I mention the I installed a low profile radiator fan? And there are some new piston rings in there as well to make sure this thing holds up

[GreasedLissik]

Going back to that kickstand no start issue, I found out that the clutch that I had on this 300 was the slippery one from the 300 with the 250 clutch cover, and that didn’t work , I have the scars on in inside of the cover to prove that