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Old February 18th, 2019, 01:02 PM   #1
NinjaBraap
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Wiring questions, Aftermarket cluster help.

Hey Ninjette!

Wired up a universal aftermarket digital cluster on my 04 250, it works just fine but can't retain settings due to the fact it needs a power connection after shutoff. It's set up for bikes that use digital clusters normally, so usually there's a wire already present at the normal connections.

The only wire I could locate and confirm has power constantly is the White wire running from the Start Relay Main Fuse (30A) to the Ignition Switch (pictured below). However, it has a lot of juice running, and is a larger gauge wire so I'm afraid of burning up my cluster and/or battery by running off of that wire. Tried to locate another wire, thought maybe the fan wire, but couldn't locate the fan on the Diagram, only this Electrical Accessory Leach with a White/Blue (+) and Yellow/Black (-).

Everything else is wired up just fine and working, I just need to find a good wire to retain power after shutdown so my setting are stored. I'd much rather not run a wire directly off the battery if at all possible.

Anyone know of a good wire to run off of or if it'd be fine to run off the White wire from the Ignition Switch?

I've also attached a image of the cluster wiring that shows the terminal for this. It's the one in the center that says "battery 12V+".




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Old February 18th, 2019, 01:46 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaBraap View Post
Hey Ninjette!

The only wire I could locate and confirm has power constantly is the White wire running from the Start Relay Main Fuse (30A) to the Ignition Switch (pictured below). However, it has a lot of juice running, and is a larger gauge wire so I'm afraid of burning up my cluster and/or battery by running off of that wire.

Go ahead and hook onto the white wire, like you've probably heard before, "size doesn't matter", it's only getting battery voltage. You'll want to put an inline fuse with a smaller amperage fuse (?5 amp?), in the wire right after where you hook onto the white wire, so it won't melt the smaller wire you will run between the white (fused at 30 a) and your dash should it short out.
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Old February 18th, 2019, 02:06 PM   #3
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Well tried running it off the white wire (mock up test), the cluster wouldn't power on and made weird sounds. It works fine running off the battery obviously, but it's not ideal by any means. I also found the water temp sensor wire (white/blue) has constant power, but it must not have been enough, because the cluster only powered on partially no matter what I did. For now I'm running off the battery until I can figure a better solution.
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Last futzed with by NinjaBraap; February 18th, 2019 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Spelling error
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Old February 18th, 2019, 03:49 PM   #4
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Do the instructions say how much draw there is?
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Old February 18th, 2019, 04:01 PM   #5
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Unfortunately not. It's an asian market universal cluster, basically ebay. Works well and looks good, but severely lacking on instructions. The seller said to just connect to battery, so not very helpful there either.
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Old February 18th, 2019, 05:31 PM   #6
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I'd run it off the battery with a fuse. You should be all cool-in-the-gang.
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Old February 18th, 2019, 06:43 PM   #7
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Don't get mixed up on instructions.

battery+ goes to white wire ign-switch input, always +12v
ign-switch goes to ign-switch ouput thats only +12v when key is ON

Use voltmeter to confirm these states at ignition-switch
Even for testing, you should solder and heat-shrink wrap.
Flaky connections for testing will waste a lot of time
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Old February 19th, 2019, 02:54 PM   #8
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You could always hook em up to those infamous wires that aren't attached to anything:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_a...to_anything%3F
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Old February 20th, 2019, 01:25 PM   #9
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Good idea! I used those to power heat-gloves for winter commutes. Then I didn't like being tethered, so got battery-powered gloves.
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Old March 26th, 2019, 11:32 AM   #10
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Haha yeah those wires always freak me out a little.
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Old March 29th, 2019, 05:25 PM   #11
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Just to clarify, the amperage rating just tells how much the circuit is capable of handling. The load "pulls" current from the source. You can have a device that pulls more than the circuit can handle (think of hooking up a huge headlight array using tiny little wires), which can overheat the wires and lead to fire. But hooking up a small load with huge wires (think of a single LED light hooked up with jumper cables) will still only be flowing the tiny amount of power needed for the LED. Make sure your power source and wiring are rated at least as high as your load - overkill is not a problem.

The white wire is just connected to the battery through the 30A main fuse in the starter solenoid. If it worked fine when hooked up to the battery but not when on the white wire, you either have a problem with your stock wiring or there was something else weird going on (bad connection, short, etc. somewhere).

According to the wiring diagram, the accessory leads are connected to a fuse in the junction box powered directly by the white wire. If you're not using them for something else, they should make a great power source for this. Otherwise, the white wire going into the ignition switch or wired up directly to the battery terminal with a fuse should give you the exact same results.
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Old March 29th, 2019, 05:47 PM   #12
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Yup, think of amps as "volume" of electricity that is "drawn" or "sucked" through circuit. Technically an amp is coulombs/sec, so it is like volume. Or gallons/sec. flowing through garden hose.

For example, a 55w headlight draws... 55w/12v=4.58 amps. You can hook up an amp-meter to the white-wire and use that to power 55w headlight and what will the amp-meter read? 4.58amps! Doesn't matter one bit that fuse for that circuit is 30-amps, that's just maximum for that circuit based upon supply and wiring-diameter. But usage is dependent upon resistance of circuits which determines the draw amperage.

Then if you hook up second headlight to white-wire, what will amp-meter say? 2x4.58amps = 9.16amps and so on. Up to.. the 30-amp limit of that circuit. So you'd have to hook up A LOT of headlights to reach the 30-amp limit.

Circuit will only provide as much "volume" or "amps" as a device draws. No more, no less. Up to limit of circuit and then you'll blow fuse.
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