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Old November 28th, 2008, 01:03 AM   #1
kkim
 
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DIY How to Lube and Adjust the 250R Clutch Cable and How to Add 10 HP w/ one Mod!!!

Okay most people new to bikes most likely don't know how to do this, but if your clutch is hard to pull, it makes working the engagement point that much more difficult.

By lubing and adjusting the clutch it will feel a lot smoother and you will be able to work it a bit easier if yours is dirty and corroded inside the cable.

so, lets get started....

first, this is the clutch lever and cable that we will be adjusting.

-015.jpg

begin by turning the inner locking knob counterclockwise as far as you can go...

-016.jpg

next screw in the outer adjusting knob clockwise as far as it will go so it is closer to the clutch lever assembly...

-017.jpg -018.jpg

next, face the front of the lever assembly from the front and align all the slots in the adjusters and lever assembly...

-019.jpg

next part required 2 hands so I was unable to snap pics of the process, but pull the cable sheathing (the outside of the cable) away from the lever assembly by working the lever a few times while pulling the sheath. You need to work the sheath until the end of the sheath can slip over the end of the adjustor to free the cable. Once that is done, slip the cable through the slots that you aligned earlier.

-020.jpg -021.jpg

the cable terminates with a barrel on the end located in a round hole on the bottom of the lever. remove the cable from the lever.

-022.jpg

-023.jpg

once free, this is what the cable end looks like. Clean up any grease, dirt or corrosion that may be on the end of the cable.

-024.jpg

this is what you will need to lube the cable. The blue thing in the middle is a cable luber available at most MC shops or online. I have no idea what they cost now, as I've had this one for a good 20-30 years. They sell cable lubricant for use with the luber, but over the years this combo of wd-40 and triflow has been my treatment for cables. The wd-40 is used to flush out the cable of all impurities (dirt, water, corrosion) and the triflow is used after the cable is cleaned to leave a layer of Teflon through out the cable as a lubricant.

-025.jpg

Put the cable luber on the end of the cable..

-026.jpg

put the cable barrel termination on one side of the luber and the sheathing metal jacket on the other side, then tighten the screw on the luber to close up.

-027.jpg -028.jpg

this is where the clutch cable termintes. slide the little rubber booty down so the lubricant can flow freely though the cable.

-029.jpg

stick the plastic straw into the hole in the luber and spray away with the wd-40. cover it up with a rag as it can sometimes get messy. you should see the wd-40 exiting down by the engine case as you spray. look carefully and you can see a white milky fluid on the ground. I assume I had water in the cable from washing the bike.

-030.jpg -031.jpg -032.jpg

once you are satisfied the cable sheathing is clean of all dirt and debris, switch to the tri flow and repeat.

-033.jpg

next will be putting everything back together and adjusting.
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Old November 28th, 2008, 01:04 AM   #2
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it will be a mess on the other end, but that is easily cleaned up later.

-034.jpg

remove the cable luber...

-035.jpg -036.jpg

Before reassembly, we need to grease the cable barrel end with grease. This allows the barrel to pivot smoothly in the lever to reduce friction. I use a HD wheel bearing grease here as most cable failures occur at this location with frayed cables being the biggest problem.

-037.jpg -038.jpg

stick the barrel into the hole in the lever assembly and assemble the same way to took it out, by working the sheathing back on the cable until you can slip it over the end of the adjuster.

-039.jpg -040.jpg

once over the end of the adjuster, turn the adjuster counterclockwise to take up the slack in the cable.

-041.jpg

adjust the lever spacing shown in this blurry photo to the factory spec of 2-3mm (0.08-0.12")... just call it a tenth of an inch. the main thing is to have some slack at the end of the lever to assure that the clutch is fully disengaged and not slipping. check your owner's manual pg.106 on how to properly measure this.

-042.jpg

after you have adjusted to the proper free play, tighten the inner locking knob and you're done.

-043.jpg

clean up the lever side and the engine case side of the cable and you are finished. don't forget to put the little rubber booty back into place. also, the lube will drip for a few days from the cable end by the engine.

-044.jpg

And now, to add 10 HP to your bike...

-045.jpg -046.jpg

the euro bikes have a 250R sticker on their rear side cowls, but they are plain black. With the addition of that red R, the bike picks up at least 10 HP... it's true... believe me.

I find the black with red R the highest HP combo.

If you are interested in obtaining some 250R decals, please contact forum member Beast on this site. He has them in many different color combos.

-047.jpg

Last futzed with by kkim; December 4th, 2008 at 04:16 PM.
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Old November 28th, 2008, 04:01 PM   #3
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Dang it This is still the "Next to-do" thing on my list. I was looking and you can get the cable luber 'combos' with the luber and the lube for like $15.00
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Old November 28th, 2008, 04:08 PM   #4
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Dang it This is still the "Next to-do" thing on my list. I was looking and you can get the cable luber 'combos' with the luber and the lube for like $15.00
well, good! I like putting you behind in your "to do" list as you've made my "to do" list a rolling scroll!!
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Old November 28th, 2008, 09:07 PM   #5
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That must mean the fender eliminator I put on today was good for at least 20 hp considering it probably cost $80 more.
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Old November 28th, 2008, 09:19 PM   #6
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That must mean the fender eliminator I put on today was good for at least 20 hp considering it probably cost $80 more.
as the saying goes... pics or your lyin'.

Welcome, man... first post, eh?
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Old November 28th, 2008, 10:16 PM   #7
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Now that's kewl, I like that.

OK, I'll go ahead and ask, where?

Thanks

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Old November 28th, 2008, 10:21 PM   #8
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Now that's kewl, I like that.

OK, I'll go ahead and ask, where?

Thanks

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"where", what?
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Old November 29th, 2008, 10:56 AM   #9
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Whats the velcro for on the dash??
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Old November 29th, 2008, 12:51 PM   #10
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"where", what?
Where did you get the "250R" stickers for your bike? I searched abit but couldn't find them.

TIA

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Old November 29th, 2008, 03:31 PM   #11
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Whats the velcro for on the dash??
lol... that's to mount the "video" camera that I used in this thread, along with some duct tape
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...1173#post11173

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Where did you get the "250R" stickers for your bike? I searched abit but couldn't find them.
I had them custom made. Check your PM.
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Old November 29th, 2008, 06:16 PM   #12
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Kelly, I use an insulin syringe with WD-40 followed by Finish Line Pro Road. I also use Pro Road on my chain. Works great on my racing bikes and seems fine on the Ninja.
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Old March 28th, 2009, 09:21 PM   #13
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is there any time table as to how often this should be done? or only when the clutch gets "hard to pull"? i checked the periodic maitenance chart and didn't see this listed.

thanks.
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Old March 28th, 2009, 09:34 PM   #14
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under the periodic inspection table in your owner's manual, check the "clutch operation" schedule.

pg 105 gives you the details on what to check and mentions to "check that the inner cable slides smoothly".

...but basically, I do it to lessen the pull needed to operate the clutch at the lever. Coming from dirt bikes, where cables can get gunked up pretty easily, it followed over to lube the cables on the street bike to ease clutch operation, especially on the 250 where you shift a lot more than on larger displacement bikes.

With dirt bikes, a broken clutch cable can mean the difference between getting out of a muddy valley or not.
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Old March 28th, 2009, 10:41 PM   #15
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ooo good bump. Thanks for the, yet another, DIY kkim

But what do you keep your wd40 can in? Rusty water?!
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Old March 29th, 2009, 06:20 AM   #16
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Ya, but without the sticker everyone thinks it's a 600. Which is good for like, what, 80-90 hp?
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Old March 29th, 2009, 09:59 AM   #17
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Did you lay on your back with these on your chest to take the pic....or were you standing up?
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Old March 29th, 2009, 10:41 AM   #18
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I was on my back, of course.
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Old March 29th, 2009, 10:46 AM   #19
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Ya, but without the sticker everyone thinks it's a 600. Which is good for like, what, 80-90 hp?
Yeah, that is right, the number of people that have asked me if mine was a 650 is amazing, mainly due to the sound of the AreaP
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Old June 14th, 2009, 10:55 AM   #20
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What if the inner lock knob is way too tight to loosen? is there any other way to go about loosening it? Don't know how but the know on my bike is tight touching the clutch handle
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Old June 14th, 2009, 11:00 AM   #21
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are you talking about the larger "wheel" in this photo?



if so, grab it with a pair of pliers and turn it CCW as you are looking at it from the center portion of the bike.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 12:38 PM   #22
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Thanks for the DIY KKim.
Shouldn't this have gone into "general motorcycle" since this is aplicable to the pre 08 models as well?
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Old June 14th, 2009, 02:35 PM   #23
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damn i was twisting counter clockwise facing from the left of the bike, thanks

does this screw serve any purpose? because im apparently missing mine
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Old June 14th, 2009, 02:48 PM   #24
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no, that was a left over from some other model that had a mirror threaded into that hole.
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Old September 16th, 2009, 09:27 AM   #25
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awesome DIY —especially the combo trick of the wd40 and then the teflon lube.
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Old September 16th, 2009, 12:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Ya, but without the sticker everyone thinks it's a 600. Which is good for like, what, 80-90 hp?
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Old October 16th, 2009, 09:38 PM   #27
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Kelly,

Which one of the following would you use to lube the cable?

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Old October 16th, 2009, 10:01 PM   #28
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Kelly,

Which one of the following would you use to lube the cable?
Based on the pictures of the intended use of each, I'd say the "multi use" one.
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Old May 16th, 2010, 12:14 AM   #29
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So I decide to remove the clutch pivot bolt and regrease it. The threads on the pivot bolt stripped while REMOVING the bolt. And yes, though I sometimes mess things up, I did turn the bolt counterclockwise while holding the nut steady. The nut had what appears to be a bit of blue loctite in it. I tried to use the nut to rethread the pivot bolt, but no luck. I put it back on as best as possible, maybe catching one thread, and will order a new bolt and nut on monday.
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Old May 16th, 2010, 03:05 AM   #30
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Great wright up. You make me think of the little things that get neglected on a race bike. I am going to lube my cables today.That is a great idea. Good job.

A little chrome will give some better bottom end power to go with the sticker.
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Old July 24th, 2010, 08:13 PM   #31
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so exactly how hard is it supposed to be to pull the cable sheath off of the cable? cause i was not able to do it...i kept working the lever and trying to pull it back, but it wouldn't happen...it got to the point where i was pulling so hard, i was afraid i would break something...i had the inner locking knob loosened, and the outer adjusting knob as far in as it would go, while still allowing the openings to line up...i had the bike in neutral, as this made the most sense...not sure if it makes a difference? i ended up taking out the pivot bolt to make it happen
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Old July 24th, 2010, 08:44 PM   #32
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Sometimes it can be difficult to get the end of the cable past the end of the adjuster. What I do is pull the clutch lever in and grasp the cable with my other hand. As I let go of the clutch lever, I pull on the cable. The jerking motion of when I let the clutch lever go plus the force of me pulling on the cable is enough to get the cable just past the end of the adjuster. It may take a few times, but it works for me.
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Old July 24th, 2010, 08:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post

stick the plastic straw into the hole in the luber and spray away with the wd-40. cover it up with a rag as it can sometimes get messy. you should see the wd-40 exiting down by the engine case as you spray. look carefully and you can see a white milky fluid on the ground. I assume I had water in the cable from washing the bike.



Thats got to be the MOST rusted can of WD40 I have ever seen!!! you really get rust in HI huh. I have seen cans of that stuff out here that are like 20+ years old and are not that rusted! It must be the salty ocean air
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Old July 26th, 2010, 06:40 PM   #34
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Thats got to be the MOST rusted can of WD40 I have ever seen!!! you really get rust in HI huh. I have seen cans of that stuff out here that are like 20+ years old and are not that rusted! It must be the salty ocean air
+1


I'd hate to see kkim's 50 year old (still sealed Twinkie) Collection!

@ my work, we have a can of spray paint that dates back to 1972.

it sits on the desk of our mechanic. he doesnt want anyone to use it, cuz he wants to take it home with him the day he retires! haha
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 09:39 PM   #35
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how often are you suppose to clean/lube your clutch line? wat are the obvious signs that i need to know when my clutch line needs cleaing and lubing.
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Old April 1st, 2011, 05:12 PM   #36
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I haven't found Triflow Superior Lubricant with Teflon, or Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease. Is white lithium grease OK to use as the lube? And is Castrol Multi-Purpose Wheel Bearing Grease OK to use for the cable barrel end? http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7036194

Thank you for any assistance.
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Old April 1st, 2011, 05:24 PM   #37
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I wouldn't use the lithum grease in the cable. It would be too thick and sticky and add drag. The Triflow can be found at Ace hardware... at least that's where I get mine, here. if nothing else, clean the cable out with the wd40 and just leave it like that so the cable slides easily within the sheath.

Yes, any type of wheel bearing grease on the cable ends is better than none. I like the Belray cause it's a HD, waterproof wheel bearing grease. A lot of bike shops carry it.

remember to lube the pivot bolt on the clutch perch, too, with some grease when reassembling so the clutch lever action is as smooth as can be.
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Old July 6th, 2011, 07:25 PM   #38
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Exclamation Help

Ok guys, I need help.

I had a helluva time getting the cable out from the lever but I did and lubed it and everything now I'm having trouble getting it back to normal.







Ok so I got the adjuster screw to screw back into the lever housing as you can see but there is no slack in the clutch cable. When I got it to screw in I could only turn it about two times by hand before I had to use pliers to screw it in a little more. I am afraid to keep screwing the adjuster in because it's getting tighter and I don't want to break something. I can pull the lever but it is pretty stiff and there is no free play at the end of the lever. Can anybody see/tell what is wrong?

Btw while doing this I also swapped the stock levers for some new pazzos
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Old July 6th, 2011, 07:48 PM   #39
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sounds to me like you stripped/cross threaded the threads in the lever housing. take the clutch lever back off, and remove the cable. the adjuster should be able to screw freely in and out of the lever perch.

does it?

if not, remove the adjuster from the clutch perch and inspect the threads in the clutch perch and adjuster.
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Old July 6th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #40
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And a 650R sticker will add about 50hp right?
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