Ignition coil cylinder 1 calcined ... Reason ?

[XacTiu]

Hello. 2009 Ninja 250R have a European version with injection.
A few days ago after an overnight stop the bike, the bike stopped boot but the warning came on and sounded FI rare. The attempt to start several times and keep on until the ignition coil cylinder 1 was calcined, call the crane ...
Buy another ignition coil and the change is reheated. Medi tension in the coil connector and marked 12v constantly.
I was messing wiring and disconnect the CDI. To reconnect all the bike I started well.
The problem is that now when I use the bike occasionally and especially in withholding such notice if the bike lost power for less than a second. I imagine that is the failure of the coil ...
That you think that is the CDI failure or wiring? Wiring I find more difficult to check and see that the fault is now so highly intermittent.
I have fear back to stay lying or burn the entire electrical system ....
Any ideas?

[csmith12]

Free bump!

[Motofool]

Each coil is a simple voltage transformer: two copper coils around an iron core.
Those typically fail by opened coils, rather than cooking them.

Input is 12 volts and high Amps, while output is the opposite.
Leaving the key in the on possition when the engine is off will have Amps going through the primary coil.
In that case, damage may occur due to overheating without blowing the fuse.

It may be a one time occurence with nothing to worry about, except removing the key from the ignition each time the engine is off.

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Free bump!

With all due respect, how about a free translation?

[XacTiu]

Any idea for my intermitent problem?
CDI or general wiring problem?

Coil burned down because of continuous 12v reach out from that turn the ignition key. Now the failure is intermittent and very brief but remains for a split second.
The European model has type pencil coils .

I'm from Spain. Sorry for my English.

Thank's!

[Motofool]

Again, coils do not fail intermittently: they have no moving parts.
It could be the CDI, but if you don't have a second one to install and try, you could use the less expensive approach first.

It could be any marginal wire's connection that fails occasionally with vibrations or temperature.

It could also be any of the safety switches that is working improperly, commanding the CDI to stop the engine at the wrong moment.

I would check the side stand and the clutch safety switches as well as would clean every connector and wire between the battery and spark plugs.

The spark plugs may be worn or dirty if the failure only happens when you open the thhrottle and load the engine at low rpm's.

Your English is not that bad; you can send me a PM in Spanish if you have additional questions.

[bruce71198]

I think your trying to describe a misfire. If that's the case make sure theres no oil or moisture down the spark plug well, if there is correct it. Coil on plug ignition systems seem to eat coils more often than the standard set up. Why? I dont know, maybe the compact size of the unit? All the components tightly packaged? They seem to short out internally often. Also check for carbon tracks in the boot end as well as down the porcelain on the spark plug. The carbon tracks are almost impossible to clean off so replacement is usually the answer.