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Old March 20th, 2016, 10:26 AM   #41
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Thanks to Amazon Sunday delivery, I was able to rebuild the petcock today.
I followed this guide:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuild...tcock/fuel_tap

I used a shmear of Vaseline on the O-ring, to facilitate rotating between On, Off, and Reserve.

I decided to hold off on the separate diaphragm, and I think that I lucked out, as mine looks great. We'll see. once I reassemble, and fire up the bike.
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Old March 20th, 2016, 10:32 AM   #42
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Hopefully you won't need the other kit, otherwise you would have spent the about the same amount as a new petcock.

Here's my write-up on the subject

Quote:
If your petcock is shot, save your time, and money and get a new one, the cost of rebuilding it isn't much cheaper, due to you need two separate kits, as they for some reason don't make just one.

New one cost about $65.00

1988~00 models
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...1023-1139.html

2001~07 models
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...1023-1393.html



Also be sure to order the orings(92022-183 WASHER,6.2X11X1.5)and new bolts(92001-1091BOLT,6X20),trust me you'll be better off in the long run.

Rebuilding kits are about $60 total.

K&L Supply Diaphragm Only for Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-6638 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055DWO60..._s1CGub1W9N3PH

K&L Supply Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-2723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KO2JRW..._U1CGub05DT5NT

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuild...tcock/fuel_tap

IMHO not worth it rebuilding, also be sure to check vacuum and fuel lines for wear, holes, and cracks, if in doubt replace them. Also replace the two small O-rings on the bolts for the petcock part# 92022.

This is the time to add an inline filter filter, if you don't have one already.

K&N 81-0221 Fuel Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2AR70..._ncMwwbE333H0E

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Old March 20th, 2016, 06:04 PM   #43
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Yes, I saw that before I decided to rebuild. The current cost are around $90.
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Old March 20th, 2016, 06:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spent_too_much View Post
Yes, I saw that before I decided to rebuild. The current cost are around $90.
Partzilla current price is $63.99 just click on the link in my write-up, that's why I included the link.
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Old March 22nd, 2016, 11:41 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Partzilla current price is $63.99 just click on the link in my write-up, that's why I included the link.
When I click the link, I am prompted to sign in, or create an account, in order to see pricing. Not a bad price though, now that I know.
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Old March 22nd, 2016, 11:43 AM   #46
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More parts have arrived...
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Old April 7th, 2016, 07:25 AM   #47
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My self imposed deadline of April 15th is quickly approaching. Unfortunately, I have been under the weather, and mother nature has not been cooperative with it being so cold and rainy. I have decided on all of the paint colors, and have the paint, but since I must paint out side, I have not been able to do so. Untill all of the parts are painted, I cannot begin reassembly.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 11:05 AM   #48
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SIDENOTE:

Be sure to check the disc very carefully for warping, if it's a low mileage disc it should be fine, but the Ninjette is bad for warping discs due to the design.

From my caliper service write-up

Quote:
Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.
If your in need of the rest of the write-up let me know.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 11:13 AM   #49
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Full write-up:

I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, here's my write-up to help you out. It'S important to keep your calipers in top working order, obviously.

Quote:
For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc



Flush and fill with new brake fluid, pick your favorite flavor.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade


Quote:
Venhill Introduction
Greetings everyone!

I wanted to take a moment to introduce you to Venhill...

Venhill manufactures some of the highest quality brake lines and cables you can get. We've been in business since 1971 and currently offer a full range of brake lines for the Ninja 250, first and second generations.

Our website, venhillusa.com, is setup to take orders for any year Ninja 250 as well as many other bikes. You can pick your bike and then customize your kits as you wish. We offer many different colors of hose as well as different finishes and materials for hardware. All of these options can be selected during the purchase process, so you'll be sure to get exactly what you want. You can even add length to hoses if needed.

To get an idea of our reputation, have a look at our eBay feedback.

If you have any questions or comments about Venhill products or brake lines or cables in general, please share them. I'm happy to be a resource for general information about brake lines and cables as well. Technical questions are welcome!

Please take a look at our website and let us know what you think. We just recently did a complete makeover and are interested in feedback. (venhillusa.com)

Have a great day and stay safe,

Chris
Venhill USA

For the detail oriented out there, some interesting things you might want to know about Venhill and our products:

Our factory is ISO 9001-2000 approved, which basically means we have the ability to consistently produce quality products. To qualify for ISO approval your factory and quality control mechanisms are evaluated as to whether your "good" products happen by chance, or if they are a result of good quality control.

All of our hoses are built to DOT/TUV spec and have been certified as such. We submitted hoses to the TUV (German DOT) for testing and only by passing are we allowed to use the TUV symbol on our hoses. Every hose we sell is built to these specifications, even if it is for track or offroad use only. It just makes for a higher quality product.

All of our hoses are hydraulically crimped, not hand crimped, and leak/pressure tested in a water bath. Yes, we immerse every hose we build in a water bath and pressurize it to check for leaks and to verify integrity of the crimps.

Venhill's hose core is authentic DuPont Teflon which is more expensive than generic "PTFE" but is stronger with a smoother inner bore. This is surrounded by 96 strands of braided marine grade stainless wire. 96 strands is more dense than some other braided line brands and the marine grade alloy is a stronger metal, which reduces expansion, the reason rubber hoses feel "spongy". Finally, we coat the braid with a UV-resistant PVC, extruded on during manufacture. This protects the hose as well as body and paint work.

Our hose design uses free-floating swivels, which allow you to loosely install everything before the hoses are tightened into place. This ensures the hose is not forced into a twist or kink when the banjo bolts are tightened. If you're worried about leaks, don't be. Our swivels work on the same premise as every threaded connection on a car or truck.

As you can see, we're sort of obsessed with quality and safety. We look at it this way: If we're asking you to put our brake lines on your bike, you're trusting us with the integrity of your brakes. That's a serious concept and we refuse to compromise when it comes to the integrity of your brakes.
I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.

Quote:
So you have made the decision that your OEM rubber lines need to be changed.

So why choose Spiegler Brake Lines?

A: Strength

That’s the short answer. But it doesn’t tell the whole story.

Spiegler Brake Lines strength comes from our innovation and research, materials and construction, knowledge and experience, service and support.

At Spiegler, we believe that the more you know about what we put into our products, the better you’ll be able to answer that question yourself.


That’s the short version; now let’s cover this topic more in depth.

Most OEM manufacturer recommend that you replace your rubber brake lines every 2 to 3 years. Why do the OEM’s recommend this? Over time OEM rubber lines deteriorate rapidly due to expansion and UV damage. This leads to increased braking distances and possible failure.

At Spiegler, our brake lines are made of only the finest materials available.

Outside casings are made of tightly woven stainless steel braiding that exceeds our competitors
The inside is made with DuPont’s PTFE-Teflon which eliminates expansion and adds durability
Crimp sleeves are made from stainless steel; competitors are using mostly carbon steel
Unique patented adjustable banjo fittings eliminate line twist during installation.
30% weight savings in comparison to other stainless steel braided brake lines
DOT approved
Lifetime warranty
117 color combinations possible which allows customers to personalize their bikes
We can build your lines to any specifications for custom applications
All brake line kits come ready for install

For more information on why you should choose Spiegler Brake Lines, you can view the following pages for a more detailed look into Spiegler brake lines.

When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.
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Old April 19th, 2016, 09:31 AM   #50
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The weather was favorable for working on, and painting the motorcycle. I set up a temporary, make shift, paint booth. I did paint some plastic parts, the front forks and front caliper - but, there were issues with the final product. The caliper, seemed to have the base bubble under the new paint - even though it was smooth and clean. The plastics, well let's just say "tiger striping". I'll have to let it set, and sand down, and attempt to paint them again.

I did bondo, sand, and spot prime the fuel tank. I also began to build up the front fairing with ABS plastic. One work of caution - because I am laying it on so thick, to rebuild missing sections, it takes forever to dry - and is liquid under the surface, even after 3 hours. I thought that I was OK to move the part for the afternoon, to set up, and to my surprise, there was a huge "puddling" of material.

Some pics of "progress"...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg File_002 (1).jpg (71.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0101.jpg (80.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0104.jpg (96.9 KB, 4 views)
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File Type: jpg File_000.jpg (76.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0094.jpg (88.3 KB, 6 views)
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Old May 6th, 2016, 07:47 AM   #51
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I'm not getting anywhere with painting, so I am looking to have it done for me. A freind of a freind is a professional auto body painter, so I am meeting with him this weekend for the options / costs.

I need to get this reasembled, before I forget how it goes back together! The more I wait, the more I take apart to clean / paint / rebuild ( later )...

I'm glad that the Ninja 250 FAQ site has all of the parts diagrams to aid me with the reassembly.
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Old May 12th, 2016, 08:11 AM   #52
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So, the professional painter was a bust. I'm back to doing it myself - when I can find the time... This is most of what needs to be painted. The Plasti-dip option is looking better by the day...
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File Type: jpg 20160512_095326.jpg (72.1 KB, 8 views)
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Old May 12th, 2016, 08:28 AM   #53
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Ewwww, plastidip. IMO, even rattle can spray paint looks better than that. Here's some pics of a lower fairing I did on my previous bike after I repaired a crack.

High fill primer:



Black gloss Krylon:



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Old May 13th, 2016, 10:45 AM   #54
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That looks really sharp!

I was thinking that the plastidip would hide imperfections, so that I can get this project moving again. I guess that I am just a bit overwhelmed at how many parts that I want to paint. And, I want it to look great, after all of this effort.

The weather is getting warmer finally, so perhaps I can try painting outside again. This time, i'll try hanging the plastic sheeting inside of the shed, and use that as a paint booth.
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Old May 13th, 2016, 10:52 AM   #55
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I know better, and made a silly mistake with selling parts before this project is completed. I am combining parts from several bikes for this build. I had purchased a wrecked '98 parts bike a few weeks ago, and sold the entire 4 peice lock set, in order to recoup the cost of it.

Well, last night, I looked at my ignition switch from the '94, and matched it to the wiring harness of the '95... They are incompatible, and I did not know or notice this until last night

The '94 uses a 5 wires, and the '95 uses 7...

So, I "made" $58 on selling the entire set ( after fees and shipping ), and a replacement 7 wire set up - for just the ignition, will cost around $45. The best part, I will now have 3 keys for the finished bike ( ignition, fuel, seat & helmet )
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Old May 13th, 2016, 11:36 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spent_too_much View Post
I know better, and made a silly mistake with selling parts before this project is completed. I am combining parts from several bikes for this build. I had purchased a wrecked '98 parts bike a few weeks ago, and sold the entire 4 peice lock set, in order to recoup the cost of it.

Well, last night, I looked at my ignition switch from the '94, and matched it to the wiring harness of the '95... They are incompatible, and I did not know or notice this until last night

The '94 uses a 5 wires, and the '95 uses 7...

So, I "made" $58 on selling the entire set ( after fees and shipping ), and a replacement 7 wire set up - for just the ignition, will cost around $45. The best part, I will now have 3 keys for the finished bike ( ignition, fuel, seat & helmet )
Be careful with aftermarket ignition switches. Some don't have the resistor in the wiring from what I read. If you have that problem let me know I can send you a free resistor as I got 100 of them for my project.
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Old May 16th, 2016, 03:24 AM   #57
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Thanks, good to know.
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Old May 30th, 2016, 06:55 PM   #58
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Exploring colors. I have decided against the blue, and have two plans in mind.
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Old May 31st, 2016, 12:31 PM   #59
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I think something like this...
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Old May 31st, 2016, 12:33 PM   #60
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Exploring colors. I have decided against the blue, and have two plans in mind.
Anyone remeber this? lol That is what I think of when I look at my experiment.
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 06:17 PM   #61
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I think that I have decided on the accent design, mocked up in masking tape.
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Old June 5th, 2016, 06:57 AM   #62
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For simplicity, and availability of colors - and so it won't look silly when done, I am thinking about gloss black, charcoal grey, and a little gloss red.
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Old June 5th, 2016, 07:02 AM   #63
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My replacement 7 wire ignition came in - with a bonus of the upper tripple and helmet lock with key code. The included key gave me a little trouble, so I had a local locksmith cut a key by code. What a difference! I tried the ignition on my existing running 250, and it works fine.
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Old June 16th, 2016, 07:37 AM   #64
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I am hoping to do some painting this weekend...

I am so glad that I have my other MC to ride while this is apart. I would have missed so many riding days.
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Old July 10th, 2016, 06:36 PM   #65
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I finally had some time to paint, and sprayed the frame. I have yet another color scheme in mind now, which I will reveal once completed.

I cleaned, sanded, cleaned, primed, and added color.
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File Type: jpg 20160710_143838.jpg (73.9 KB, 7 views)
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Old July 28th, 2016, 07:00 AM   #66
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I found a local guy to sandblast a few parts that I need to paint, to get this project back on track. The swing arm and center stand are the next pieces to go on, which need the attention. From there, I should have a rolling chassis in a few hours.
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Old August 1st, 2016, 06:24 AM   #67
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Parts have been dropped off to be sandblasted - namely the swing arm...
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Old October 18th, 2016, 09:51 AM   #68
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I haven't made any progress, as what little spare time I have had, has been spent on this MC ( https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=271929 ) that I picked up back in July. I though that I would have it completed in a few weeks, and resume this build.

It looks like I will be building this MC over the winter now...
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 07:35 AM   #69
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I managed to paint the swing arm red, to match the frame, over the last month.
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Old August 20th, 2017, 03:30 PM   #70
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Take 3...

Well, life, work, and other projects took priority - until this weekend...

I am determined to compete the MC this time, and am off to a good start. The color scheme has changed ( again ) and well under way.

Inspiration for the paint scheme:
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File Type: jpg white jeep blk wheels red calipers.jpg (100.0 KB, 1 views)
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Old August 20th, 2017, 03:40 PM   #71
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Where we are now:
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Old August 29th, 2017, 05:27 PM   #72
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Painting begins

I painted a few parts; the first ones to go on to begin the reassembly process.

I had a mishap with the front fender, when it fell, with two coats of wet paint - not good. But, after allowing the paint to dry, and carefully sanding, I was back on track.
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File Type: jpg 20170820_185907.jpg (100.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 20170828_113316.jpg (44.0 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 20170828_115949.jpg (77.8 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 20170828_175138.jpg (23.6 KB, 1 views)
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Old August 30th, 2017, 06:05 PM   #73
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stay after it and get er done!

I took mine apart 2 years ago and not done!
Just got a few things to wrap up but life gets in the way.
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Old September 1st, 2017, 01:18 PM   #74
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stay after it and get er done!

I took mine apart 2 years ago and not done!
Just got a few things to wrap up but life gets in the way.
Thanks for the encouragement!
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Old September 1st, 2017, 01:23 PM   #75
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I have made a little more progress. I have updated the clutch springs, adjusted the vales, and installed new spark plugs. The engine is now sitting in place ( not fully installed yet ).

I have yet to source the little copper crush washers for my forks ( which is why they are upside down in the photo. The old washers leak ).

It's too bad that most of the frame will be covered up. The red is bold.
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Old September 1st, 2017, 01:51 PM   #76
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^ That's gonna look cool!

Can't wait to see it all together.
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Old September 3rd, 2017, 07:10 PM   #77
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I FINALLY located the copper crush washers for the forks, and installed them, along with the front wheel. Making progress...
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Old November 26th, 2017, 11:16 AM   #78
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nice build project

Spent too much,
The build is looking nice, any updates of pics you can add?

You have perked my interest in the color combo for frame and body work.

Keep up the good work, I can give you a thumbs up from what I see so far!
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Old December 7th, 2017, 02:31 PM   #79
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Wow. It has been 3 months already since I last worked on it. Unfortunately, I have not touched it - except to move it around the garage...
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Old December 7th, 2017, 02:43 PM   #80
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So, like me, 2 votes for blue front wheel, and grey rear? Once I get the bike mostly painted, and reassembled, I'll take photos all 3 ways, and then make a final decision. Thanks for the input!
Silver wheels.

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