Major Service Oil Flushing Question

[burnrich]

Hi All,

I just drained the oil out of the GPX and am planning on doing an oil flush as it's the major 25,000km service so Ill be doing coolant, oil, valve checks and a few other minor things.

Question I have from the experienced members is what type of oil to use as a flusher before filling up with 10w 40 motul.

I'm thinking of using a shell 10w 40 API SN/CF car oil for this job. Am I barking up the right tree here?

One of the spare parts guys at the local motorcycle shop in Australia told me they use whatever is laying around in the garage at the time including diesel oil of a similar weight as it doesn't make much of a difference and these engines can handle pretty much any type of oil for flushing purposes.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated as I haven't attempted a major service on a bike yet (Have done loads of cars)...

[Motofool]

You don't really need to flush the oil system, a replacement of filter and oil plus a cleaning of the mesh-filter are enough.

Important: Avoid oils labeled as "Energy conserving"; they are bad for your clutch.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil

[burnrich]

Originally Posted by Motofool

You don't really need to flush the oil system, a replacement of filter and oil plus a cleaning of the mesh-filter are enough.

Important: Avoid oils labeled as "Energy conserving"; they are bad for your clutch.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil

Didn't think about cleaning the mesh filter so thanks. The workshop I spoke to said they flush the oil system on major service intervals religiously. You haven't really explained why you wouldn't flush the system. Any particular reasons?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by burnrich

..........You haven't really explained why you wouldn't flush the system. Any particular reasons?

I see no need in doing so.
Old oil partially decomposes itself in acids, water and some other gooey and acquires a suspension of microscopic carbon particles (coming from combustion residues).
The mesh traps any big chuck of metal, seal, etc.
The paper in the filters traps little particles that could scratch the metal surfaces that matter.

When you drain the old oil and remove the material collected in both filters, just a fraction of the old oil remains in the internal passages of the oil system.

When you add almost 2 liters of fresh oil, those remains get dissolved in it.
That way you end up with oil not 100% clean, but much cleaner than it is going to be after a few hundreds of kilometers.

Flushing is not a bad thing, but its benefit is not worth the extra work and oil waste for me.
Opportune oil-filter change is more important for the health and life of your engine, IMHO.

[JohnnyBravo]

A shop charge good money to flush, or even just say they flushed your oil...
I see no need to do it, and especially wouldn't pay a shop to do it

[allanoue]

Question, not a suggestion.
How about an ounce of seafoam the last 10 or 20 miles before a oil change?

[jkv45]

Unless the oil looks like tar, there's really no reason to "flush" it with fresh oil before changing to Motul. Warm it up, remove the filter and oil drain plug and let it drip for a hour or whatever. I guess you could rock it front to back and side to side to slosh any oil down that's still sitting in the top-end if you wanted to. Either way, any oil that's left would be extremely minimal.

If it been properly maintained there isn't going to be any amount of deposits that would need to be removed by an oil "flush" or adding additional detergents.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by allanoue

Question, not a suggestion.
How about an ounce of seafoam the last 10 or 20 miles before a oil change?

I wouldn't do it.

Seafoam disolves any petroleum vanish; that is it.
What would it do to your clutch plates or gears in the transmission?
I don't have any idea.

"Sea Foam is a safe and versatile additive that can be used in fuel, oil or added directly into the combustion chamber on 2-cycle, 4-cycle, rotary engines and can be used in diesel engine fuel and oil systems only. Sea Foam is a petroleum blended product, so it is as safe for seals, o-rings, sensors and other fuel system and engine components as the fuel or motor oil that runs the engine."

[burnrich]

Just tried getting the oil filter mounting bolt out which had been severely mauled by the previous owners mechanic with what looks like a shifter. I think I'll be replacing that bolt as it's too far gone to file back or repair with the bench grinder. I noticed when looking for a replacment bolt online (after Kawasaki quoted be $38AUD for it!) that a new bolt design has replaced the old one which can be seen here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/86-12-KAW...a12ca86&_uhb=1

Can anyone comment on why the new design bolt is different to the old one (i.e more holes in it).

[beninja]

Originally Posted by burnrich

Just tried getting the oil filter mounting bolt out which had been severely mauled by the previous owners mechanic with what looks like a shifter. I think I'll be replacing that bolt as it's too far gone to file back or repair with the bench grinder. I noticed when looking for a replacment bolt online (after Kawasaki quoted be $38AUD for it!) that a new bolt design has replaced the old one which can be seen here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/86-12-KAW...a12ca86&_uhb=1

Can anyone comment on why the new design bolt is different to the old one (i.e more holes in it).

More oil flow is allowed because of the extra holes. That's my guess.

[burnrich]

Originally Posted by beninja

More oil flow is allowed because of the extra holes. That's my guess.

Yep that's what I figured. I'm curious to know just how much the flow is increased with this new design and how long it's been around for and why Kawasaki decided to change it...

[burnrich]

Acutally just reliased it's an EMGO OIL FILTER BOLT (EMGO PART NUMBER: 11-35100) which replaced OEM Part 16126-1108 after reading the ebay article again...

So EMGO have completely redesigned the OEM filter bolt with more holes. I'm digging around on the net to find out why and if it's a better option when replacing the OEM bolt.

[tubarney]

Hello Peter. I see you live in Aus, think I can help you.

If you want to flush your oil system use Liqui Moly Engine Detox. Available at Supercheap. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...d=156705#Cross

This stuff has worked wonders for me in the past with engines that have been severely neglected.

Like Motofool said, there is no need to flush your engine unless it clogged with gunk, e.g. noisy tappets, shakes like an old washing machine;... that sort of thing.

You idle your engine for 15 mins in neutral. It won't harm anything.

Originally Posted by burnrich

So EMGO have completely redesigned the OEM filter bolt with more holes. I'm digging around on the net to find out why and if it's a better option when replacing the OEM bolt.

It doesn't have more flow, this would decrease oil pressure. Its either not the photo of the actual bolt or the holes are smaller.

With anything related to the oil system. Go OEM.

With oil, any brand other than Motul is good.

[alex.s]

you only need to flush if the oil is over 30 years old and has turned to sludge that wont come out without a flush.

[alex.s]

also, i've used motul, royal purple, a few other 'fancy' oils. no complaints aside from cost. i use castrol cause its the cheapest. doesn't seem to function any different then the fancy oils. so i use the cheap half syn castrol.

[alex.s]

also that oil bolt is special. it has a valve in the middle that lets oil bypass the filter if the pressure is too high (ie- filter is clogged)

[burnrich]

Cheers guys thanks for the suggestions.