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Old April 21st, 2009, 01:39 PM   #41
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Strange how that works isn't it
You coming to the NE ride?
I have no information on it...have a link ?
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Old April 21st, 2009, 10:30 PM   #42
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I have no information on it...have a link ?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17061

and I could use some company on the ride down
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 06:31 AM   #43
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 09:51 AM   #44
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lol but only after I've already been on the road for a couple of hours... unless you want to come up to Toronto and meet first
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 10:13 AM   #45
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 12:31 PM   #46
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NE ride! NE ride! WOOHOO!!
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 10:49 PM   #47
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FYI..At 195 lbs, mine is set on 3. I'm considering going to 5, after reading what Alex stated in post #5, above. 3 is much better than 1 and I will bet 5 is probably best.
I'll try three first, Sam. Thanks!

Up another 3 lbs. At 6'3"/223 lbs, I may be the biggest 2Fiddy pilot here.
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Old May 5th, 2009, 09:55 AM   #48
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Keep in mind that preload is well "pre" load as stated above it sets the sag and controls the initial travel. If you are way oversized or way undersized then a different spring might be needed (not sure if the aftermarket has any or if you would need an aftermarket shock.)
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Old July 1st, 2009, 09:05 AM   #49
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185lbs, want to set my pre-load to 3 tonight when i get home

how do i remove the chain guard? (was reading the manual saying i had to remove it before adjusting the preload)
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Old July 1st, 2009, 09:53 AM   #50
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Chain guard comes off with just two screws, it will be clear when you're looking at it. I removed the chain guard to adjust the preload the very first time, but folks have been able to do it without removing that guard, and I probably won't remove it if I need to adjust the preload again.
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Old July 1st, 2009, 02:24 PM   #51
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look at the DIY about adjusting the preload in the wiki
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Old August 19th, 2009, 07:46 AM   #52
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Sorry to dig up an older thread, but I am wondering if I need a different spring?? I'm 115lbs and my pre-load is set to 1. I feel like I'm riding a hard-tail bicycle! (but with a cushier seat)... I'm not sure what is normal and what isn't, as this is my first bike. Will the suspension soften over time? I've only had the thing for 4 days, after all...
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:06 AM   #53
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what are your tire pressures?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:12 AM   #54
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28psi front, 32psi rear. Checked and refilled 4 days ago at the dealership before I left with it.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:15 AM   #55
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The shock will get a bit more comfy over time, but at your weight it might not. Keep riding it and see.

Are you planning to lower your bike?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:18 AM   #56
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I don't have any immediate plans to, as I feel comfortable stopping and such as long as I have my boots on. When these boots die I will have a problem, though. If I can't find suitable replacement boots I will lower it. They have about half an inch of lift overall in the sole.

Are there any boots made specifically for riding that will have that sort of lift? I'm thinking it'd be better to get tightly-fitted boots. Mine might slip off if I end up sliding along pavement...
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:22 AM   #57
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Well, I was asking as lowering might help soften the rear with a different leverage ratio the linkage would provide.

you could also lower the rear pressure to about 28 psi and see if that helps. I run 28/28 on my bike and have had no ill effects from doing so. A few PSI in tires make a big difference in feel. I wouldn't recommend going much lower than those pressures, though.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:25 AM   #58
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I will try lowering the pressure as a quick fix. Thanks for the tip!
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:28 AM   #59
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Please let us know if it makes a difference for you.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 01:06 PM   #60
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I need a solution for my suspension issue. I'm too heavy for the ninja. If I hit a bump too hard, my fat ass causes the rear suspension to bottom out. I have a BikeLitez SS FE kit installed with the fiberglass undertail and I think I may have bottomed out enough to rub the license plate and detach the LED license plate light. Is there a suspension solution out there for me?

Oh and hi Mr. Kim!
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:19 PM   #61
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well, look who the cat dragged home!

http://store.racebikerentals.com/mer...Category_Code=
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:24 PM   #62
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well, look who the cat dragged home!

http://store.racebikerentals.com/mer...Category_Code=
Sweet six hundred dollar Christ!

Good to see ya.

I've been getting my ass kicked at work (not literally). Ninja is well, with 1,100 miles from the commute (14 miles RT) and a few excursions. I guess I better work some OT if I want to afford one of those. Is anyone here an expert on these rear shocks? I notice they are "custom built" to the rider's weight and riding style. Do they really work??

I need something strong for my 230 lbs frame.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:28 PM   #63
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Yikes! $100 mark up over retail, too!

NINJA 250 (08-09)
REAR (unit) SPRING SET-UP* TYPE ADJUSTMENT(S) PART #
MSRP. (US$)
STOCK GEOMETRY (36mm) Single Rate Non-Reservoir Preload & Rebound E36R/1-WAY
$495.00

http://www.elkasuspension.com/produc...saki-moto.html
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:28 PM   #64
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Obvious question is, have you bumped up the stock shock preload to #5, yet?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:37 PM   #65
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I'm guessing some of the premium charged by Richard covers the setting up of the shock based on the weight and riding style...

I also found this package for those interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3321wt_943

http://www.rentmyninja.com/

Go to store... these guys claimed to have helped Elka develop the components. This package comes with replacement fork springs! $570 plus shipping.

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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:44 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Obvious question is, have you bumped up the stock shock preload to #5, yet?


I did that a long time ago. It rides okay except for the suspension bottoming out on *ANY* bump I go over. It'll get worse if I ride with cargo. I think I'm gonna have them build it for a 250 pound payload since I'm planning on some Cortech bags which will tax it even more.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:47 PM   #67
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um, the shock Richard sells is a 2 (compression and rebound adjustable) way. the stuff you're looking at isn't, hence the price diff. the remote reservoir is the giveaway.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:49 PM   #68
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um, the shock Richard sells is a 2 (compression and rebound adjustable) way. the stuff you're looking at isn't, hence the price diff. the remote reservoir is the giveaway.
Shows what I know!

Next question... do I need rebound adjustment on a street only application?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:53 PM   #69
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I can't say, but when I asked Richard about the shock you've linked, he said it was junk and wouldn't recommend it and which is why he doesn't sell it. Others may have different opinions on this, so perhaps they will post up their experience. In the end, you'll need to be the judge.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 02:55 PM   #70
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I can't say, but when I asked Richard about the shock you've linked, he said it was junk and wouldn't recommend it and which is why he doesn't sell it. Others may have different opinions on this, so perhaps they will post up their experience. In the end, you'll need to be the judge.
Your and Richard's experience are held in high regard by me. You know I'm not one to go cheap with mods. What do you think about replacing the fork springs?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 04:21 PM   #71
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If the front is diving when you brake and "bottoms", yes you need some stiffer springs. I think there was a post recently about how much improvement there was to the forks with just a spring change... or am I imagining it?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 05:26 PM   #72
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First, how heavy are you? I'm 220 without gear and I have not bottomed the rear shock yet, even on some pretty big dips and bumps. I have the preload set to 5 which is the best I can do at the moment for correct sag. The shock is also settling in a little and becoming a little more compliant, but I don't forsee it getting so loose to bottom out.

On another note... one thing a lot of people don't consider when making suspension preload/sag adjusments is the effect the front has on the rear and vise versa. If you raise the rear by jacking up the preload, you put more weight on the front end and less on the rear. On a stock front end with those pitiful .45 or so springs, it means lots of sag up front and lots of weight transfer, making the problem even worse. This translates to an overweighted front end that dives excessively and bottoms easily, bobs and pogos, and generally under damped on the 250. The rear end now becomes light, and even more over damped causing a very harsh ride. Back problems anyone?

Ideally, sag adjustments (suspension preload) should be made to both the front and back at the same time. Change the rear, the front changes as well. They need to be 'balanced'. Fortunately, the shock on the Current-Gen 250 is surprisingly adequate for the heavier rider for such a small bike, just a little over damped for street. I'd dare say 'adequate' sag can be found for people up to 220 - 230 lbs or so on the 5th setting. Unfortunately, as per above, you need to properly setup the front which means replacing or cutting the stock springs, then using spacers to achieve correct sag. For my weight, I'm finding a set of .85 springs + the rear preload set to 5 a pretty good setup until my Elka comes in. Don't get me wrong, the rear is still over damped and on the harsh side, but much more livable with the front end raised to the correct sag.

There's a huge art to suspension tuning, but almost everyone agrees that front and rear sag should be set correctly at the same time.

If you're around my weight and bottoming out the rear end consistently on small bumps, something is wrong with your shock!
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Old August 29th, 2009, 12:42 AM   #73
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Quote:
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First, how heavy are you? I'm 220 without gear and I have not bottomed the rear shock yet, even on some pretty big dips and bumps. I have the preload set to 5 which is the best I can do at the moment for correct sag. The shock is also settling in a little and becoming a little more compliant, but I don't forsee it getting so loose to bottom out.

On another note... one thing a lot of people don't consider when making suspension preload/sag adjusments is the effect the front has on the rear and vise versa. If you raise the rear by jacking up the preload, you put more weight on the front end and less on the rear. On a stock front end with those pitiful .45 or so springs, it means lots of sag up front and lots of weight transfer, making the problem even worse. This translates to an overweighted front end that dives excessively and bottoms easily, bobs and pogos, and generally under damped on the 250. The rear end now becomes light, and even more over damped causing a very harsh ride. Back problems anyone?

Ideally, sag adjustments (suspension preload) should be made to both the front and back at the same time. Change the rear, the front changes as well. They need to be 'balanced'. Fortunately, the shock on the Current-Gen 250 is surprisingly adequate for the heavier rider for such a small bike, just a little over damped for street. I'd dare say 'adequate' sag can be found for people up to 220 - 230 lbs or so on the 5th setting. Unfortunately, as per above, you need to properly setup the front which means replacing or cutting the stock springs, then using spacers to achieve correct sag. For my weight, I'm finding a set of .85 springs + the rear preload set to 5 a pretty good setup until my Elka comes in. Don't get me wrong, the rear is still over damped and on the harsh side, but much more livable with the front end raised to the correct sag.

There's a huge art to suspension tuning, but almost everyone agrees that front and rear sag should be set correctly at the same time.

If you're around my weight and bottoming out the rear end consistently on small bumps, something is wrong with your shock!
I'm 225 lbs tonight without any gear.

I'm saving pennies for Richard's ELKA two way. I want to pick up the proper fork springs as well and install them/have them installed at the same time.

The stock shock is set to 5 right now. My riding style has me ass against the pad on my seat cowl. I keep my crotch area off and out of the tank. I have a set of the Buell footpegs I'm gonna install one of these days too. Just need to get them set up and figure out what all needs to be adjusted in the way of cabling afterward.
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Old August 29th, 2009, 06:51 AM   #74
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Cochese, did it start bottoming out recently or has it always bottomed out for you? I'm just wondering because I am about 205 without gear, have the preload set at 3 and have not had an issue. I've even ridden 2 up with my wife without an issue either, although these have been short trips with no big bumps.
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Old August 29th, 2009, 08:57 AM   #75
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Well, I haven't noticed an issue until recently. With ATG and a tank bag full of three pistols and 400 rounds of ammo, it may have just been too much.

As luck would have it, my shop wants to buy my stock stuff back, including exhaust and fender so the Elka may come faster than I hoped!
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Old August 29th, 2009, 09:11 AM   #76
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I have a set of the Buell footpegs I'm gonna install one of these days too. Just need to get them set up and figure out what all needs to be adjusted in the way of cabling afterward.
Where have you been, man? I know the VCAs (violent criminal actors for the laymen) never rest; thus, your job is never done.

You REALLY need to install those Buell pegs TODAY! They are a world of difference (I'm 6'2"/200 lbs). My post http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ght=buell+pegs gives you all the detail adjustments. The hardest part is machining (grinder, dremel, and/or file....your choice).

Since I posted this DIY, I have removed the "feelers", not that I'm leaning that far, but I got tired of them hitting my legs, while backing out of my garage. They simply unscrew.

Stay safe!!
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Old August 29th, 2009, 09:12 AM   #77
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Well, I haven't noticed an issue until recently. With ATG and a tank bag full of three pistols and 400 rounds of ammo, it may have just been too much.

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Along with 3 pistols, 400 rounds, geez that can be HEAVY.

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Old August 29th, 2009, 09:14 AM   #78
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I can't believe you only carry 3 pistols!
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Old August 29th, 2009, 09:38 AM   #79
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I was heading to a GSSF match at the time. Normally I just keep a Springfield EMP and two or three mags with me. :P

...and gimme a break! I only have one Ninja, I have 7 Glocks and over 9,000 posts on Glock Talk!
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Old August 31st, 2009, 06:17 PM   #80
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Hey guys,

I think my shock price is actually $100 under MSRP. Thanks, Kelly for clearing that up! If you guys find something out of line with my price, please let me know, but it should be pretty cheap.

For the front springs, I know this is not a very popular answer, but I feel the stock springs with 15 weight oil is the best setup. I ran Racetech springs for 2 weekends in my bike and HATED them! Our little Ninja Turtles are spindly little things. A stiff front end creates all sorts of problems (in my experience). The bike likes a very soft suspension setup up front. Yes, the bike does dive quite a bit, but heavier oil will solve a lot of that. Anyway, just my 0.02
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