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Old September 30th, 2022, 01:27 PM   #41
Zpatton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
not gonna hurt K&N.

Yeah get little squirt-bottle and spray petrol into intake-snorkel where air entres:

Or take off cover over air-filtre and squirt below it into airbox
I am so grateful for finding this website, forum, and all of you fellow ninja riders!!!!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/U9pzNgQDiyXT9BTe9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WgAy2cAHKpR5YSTe7

I’m assuming that I need to both get the carbs rebuilt as you stated Danno and also get the battery recharged. It had trouble restarting after this and it definitely sounded like a “power” issue.

Is there anything else anyone might recommend or notice that I am missing?
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Old September 30th, 2022, 03:35 PM   #42
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I am so grateful for finding this website, forum, and all of you fellow ninja riders!!!!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/U9pzNgQDiyXT9BTe9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WgAy2cAHKpR5YSTe7

I’m assuming that I need to both get the carbs rebuilt as you stated Danno and also get the battery recharged. It had trouble restarting after this and it definitely sounded like a “power” issue.

Is there anything else anyone might recommend or notice that I am missing?
Awesome! Love to see/hear it.
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Old September 30th, 2022, 04:09 PM   #43
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Woohoo!!!! Good job!!!

Yeah, keep battery on charger. Want +13.8v fresh off charger.

Check for sparks on both sides, it may have weak sparks on one side. Mentioned no spark earlier:

1. key ON
2. measure voltage at each terminal of each coil (4-measurements), volts = ???

Most likely thorough carb-restoration will have it purring much smoother.
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Old October 7th, 2022, 07:59 AM   #44
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Got a new rear reservoir in and trying to put it on so that there are no issues with the rear brake.



Is there a secret to attaching this thing at all points? I cannot for the life of me either get both mounting points lined up properly for the bolts OR I can’t get the bottom piece to attach to the brake pedal because of the angle. I think the brake pedal is too short perhaps as well.

All I know is that I can’t get the darn thing to mount correctly and I was fiddling with it for about 2 hours last night.
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Old October 7th, 2022, 09:00 AM   #45
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Need to flip master cylinder around so body is in FRONT of mounting holes.

1. remove hoses from master cylinder
2. remove reservoir from frame
3. remove clevis from pedal
4. remove master from rearset
5. rotate master cylinder 180-degrees around vertical axis so body is in FRONT of mounting holes

6. firmly attach master to rearset with body ahead of mounting holes using SUPERGLUE so it can never ever be separated again and re-installed improperly. Use extra long titanium bolts and install double-locknuts on back-side. Also superglue these in as well

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Old October 7th, 2022, 09:16 AM   #46
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Aaaahhhhh I see now!

Originally I thought you were saying that it goes in front of the the BRACKET.

That's me just not reading properly. Okay, I cross examined a few other pictures I could find and I fully understand what you're pointing out to me.

Thank you Danno.

Also I have not been able to get around to testing each coil as of yet, however I charged the battery, recoonected it, and have been starting/running the bike every day for the past week. So there's good news there haha!

Only thing I am waiting on are some nuts and bolts to replace all the missing ones on the bike, then I should be able to start putting pieces back together. The new ignition will have to wait until its out and running around so that I can take it to a mechanic to drill out the bolts professionally.

Has anyone had any experience with a fender eliminator and also trying to install rear signal pods? I'm really interested in the possiblity of adding rear turn signal pods but I had to buy the Hot Bodies eliminator kit cause it looks like the PO straight up ripped the lower portion of the old fender off just to make it "fenderless." Well with the new piece it makes it difficult (in my imited experience) to install turn signal pods. So just wondering if anyone else has done something similiar.
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Old October 8th, 2022, 12:00 PM   #47
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post photo of what's on bike.
Factory light pods bolted to top of rear fender.
Same assembly that holds tail, brake, licence plate lights.
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Old October 9th, 2022, 05:49 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
post photo of what's on bike.
Factory light pods bolted to top of rear fender.
Same assembly that holds tail, brake, licence plate lights.

I’ll have to do a pic later. This piece doesn’t use any of the original parts and I don’t have any of them anyway as the one that was already on the bike was incomplete and damaged. Hence why I replaced it.

Anyway I drove it today!!!! I got enough done over the last several days that I went ahead said screw it, let’s see if it’ll actually get on the street.

Stayed right around my house just kinda cruising along, testing the clutch, new handles, brakes, etc.

Big takeaways are:
1) I need new grips. The original ones aren’t helping me maintain friction with gloves on.
2) I didn’t put ANY of the front cowling or headlight assembly back on but I have ZERO headlights period. The indicator for headlights isn’t even lit up on the gauge cluster.
3) None of the instruments in the gauge cluster work. The backlights work, the neutral indicator works, and the oil pressure indicator works. But no speedometer, tachometer, and fuel level indicator.
4) NO rear brake pressure. At all. I have not changed out any fluids but I did add brake fluid because I lost a lot when swapping the rear cylinder out. But still zero pressure. That is a huge concern. I dunno what could possibly be causing that.
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Old October 9th, 2022, 06:24 PM   #49
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Reading various topics from past users about no rear brake pressure. Lots of similarities and I would venture to guess it is either air in the lines or seals blown inside the master cylinder (it is a used part).

If it's the former then I will try to get it done but I just discovered that the rear brake does not have a valve on it. I don't know if that is because this may be a aftermarket brake or what, but it looks like something was broken off where the valve should be. From what I understand this may not be a cheap thing to do also so I don't know if I can invest the money for it too.

If it is the latter I don't know if I have the time, patience, or knowledge to "rebuild" it. I see there are kits with the part for them that are relatively cost effective but damn, I just want it operable.
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Old October 10th, 2022, 08:25 AM   #50
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Yeah, you can’t really swap the master cylinder out without introducing air so the brakes probably just need a bleeding. Hope the valve isn’t too big an issue. The speedometer is completely mechanical with no electronics so is it possible that your cable is not connected? It should go from the speed sender gear at the left side of the front wheel axle to the back of the gauge cluster.
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Old October 10th, 2022, 10:14 AM   #51
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Quote:
2) I didn’t put ANY of the front cowling or headlight assembly back on but I have ZERO headlights period. The indicator for headlights isn’t even lit up on the gauge cluster.
You need headlight installed and connected to get light.

Quote:
3) None of the instruments in the gauge cluster work. The backlights work, the neutral indicator works, and the oil pressure indicator works. But no speedometer, tachometer, and fuel level indicator.
This sounds like connector behind clocks isn't plugged in if multiple stuffs isn't working.

Quote:
4) NO rear brake pressure. At all. I have not changed out any fluids but I did add brake fluid because I lost a lot when swapping the rear cylinder out. But still zero pressure. That is a huge concern. I dunno what could possibly be causing that.
Yeah, in order to rotate cylinder body 180-degrees, you had to loosen brake-fluid hose going to caliper. So there's air that crept in. Simple matter to bleed it.

Here's some videos:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 10th, 2022, 11:19 PM   #52
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Here's wiring diagram to help trace power circuit to clocks & headlight. Start at ignition-switch and trace power circuit to end-points. Then measure actual wires on bike to see where power disappears. I've modified this diagram extensively to fix numerous errors and have it print out on single sheet of paper for maximum readability.

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Old October 10th, 2022, 11:54 PM   #53
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Here's specific schematic for ignition-switch:



Note that there's multiple inputs & outputs. State should match table. If everything matches when you measure, then issue is downstream: fusebox and/or wiring to & from.

If find broken wiring, fix it to highest standard possible so you'd only have to do it once and never have to touch it again.

Link to original page on YouTube.


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Old October 11th, 2022, 03:07 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
Reading various topics from past users about no rear brake pressure. Lots of similarities and I would venture to guess it is either air in the lines or seals blown inside the master cylinder (it is a used part).

If it's the former then I will try to get it done but I just discovered that the rear brake does not have a valve on it. I don't know if that is because this may be a aftermarket brake or what, but it looks like something was broken off where the valve should be. From what I understand this may not be a cheap thing to do also so I don't know if I can invest the money for it too.

If it is the latter I don't know if I have the time, patience, or knowledge to "rebuild" it. I see there are kits with the part for them that are relatively cost effective but damn, I just want it operable.
Bleeder nipple may be in different places depending upon caliper. I've found them on forward side of caliper before.



And it may be broken off from over-tightening. Simple matter to remove with screw extractor or drill out carefully and fish out remaining pieces of thread.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 14th, 2022, 05:59 PM   #55
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Wow Danno, that is super detailed and extensive. Thank you. I will try and work the issue this weekend. I’ve had midterms this week so not much I’ve been able to do except take it out for a spin a couple of times just to enjoy the feel of it.

Here’s a pic of the rear brake and what I meant by it looking like the valve is broken. Not sure what else to do if that’s the actual case.

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Old October 14th, 2022, 08:28 PM   #56
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Oh no!!! Looks like entire caliper around bleeder valve's been hacked away!!!
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Old October 16th, 2022, 10:39 AM   #57
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Sooooo what's the solution for that, I need to buy a new caliper?
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Old October 16th, 2022, 11:00 AM   #58
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Although I don't see threads or fluid leaking out of the rear hole. Maybe someone couldn't find 2nd location of bleeder and tried to "break through". Does your caliper have bleeder ahead of hose like this one? Please take photo from side like this.


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Old March 27th, 2023, 09:49 AM   #59
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So I haven't been on here for a while, life has been, ****** to say the least. Anyway I felt that I could no longer rectify the issues on my own anymore so I took the bike to a local shop. It sat for a while there, they lost my contact info, blah blah blah.

Today I picked it up. Headlights working, new ignition, leaks found and fixed, rear brake caliper fixed, etc. About the only thing that isn't working after riding around this morning is the gauge cluster still. May take it back and just say hey, why aren't these working now?

Bottom line is it is rideable, even under low-light conditions, and I am already enjoying it.
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Old March 28th, 2023, 09:31 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
About the only thing that isn't working after riding around this morning is the gauge cluster still.
The backlighting and powered gauges all share common power (brown) and ground (black/yellow). If one has power/ground, they all should.

As stated above, the speedo is cable-driven. The wheel turns the bottom of the cable, the top of the cable turns the gauge.

The tach is just a fork of the black wire going to the first coil.

The fuel gauge should just be light green/black from the sender directly to the gauge.
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Old March 28th, 2023, 05:12 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
The backlighting and powered gauges all share common power (brown) and ground (black/yellow). If one has power/ground, they all should.

As stated above, the speedo is cable-driven. The wheel turns the bottom of the cable, the top of the cable turns the gauge.

The tach is just a fork of the black wire going to the first coil.

The fuel gauge should just be light green/black from the sender directly to the gauge.

Thanks Bill. I was riding it all day yesterday, and after posting here, the fuel gauge started to work. Then later on, both the tach and speedometer came to life. All were working today on a short ride to the gas station. Just odd, I guess a short or something.

One thing I noticed is that it doesn’t seem that the speedo is reading the actual speed. It was reading 70 when it felt like I was closer to 55-60 mph. Is that common on bikes or this one? Going slower than what the speedometer is displaying?
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Old March 29th, 2023, 06:31 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
One thing I noticed is that it doesn’t seem that the speedo is reading the actual speed. It was reading 70 when it felt like I was closer to 55-60 mph. Is that common on bikes or this one? Going slower than what the speedometer is displaying?
I only have personal experience with Kawasakis, but I think bike speedos tend to be a bit optimistic across the board. When people are posting about their top speed runs and such, you'll see notes like "indicated" or "GPS", as there can be a decent difference between the two. It's usually somewhere in the 5-10% range, so around 5mph at highway speeds. Low-60s might show as high-60s, but I wouldn't expect 55 to show up as 70.
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Old April 3rd, 2023, 06:48 PM   #63
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And the speedo went out today. Tach worked fine, had to tap the fuel gauge to get it to work but no problems after that. So dang weird.

Saw a guy with a newer 400, dunno what year, but man that thing is sharp. Makes me wanna find one now, especially given that it’s a bigger bike, and my 6’4” frame would probably feel better on it
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Old April 12th, 2023, 09:10 AM   #64
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Starting to have issues with lower gears and low speeds now. Noticed that as I am accelerating through first gear to second, and a few times to third, it feels like the bike is "jumpy." I don't know if it is the chain, as in the chain needs to be adjusted because of it skipping, or if it is another issue. Air intake? Carbs? I dunno. It is just weird as it started only a few days ago. Once I am up to speed and shifting into the higher gears, the symptoms are absent.
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Old April 12th, 2023, 09:23 AM   #65
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The chain is the easiest to check, and the most likely. Adjust on the rear stand, check tension with the bike on the ground. Make sure it doesn't have any frozen links and that it is aligned properly. Bad chains are bad news.
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Old April 12th, 2023, 09:25 AM   #66
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The chain is the easiest to check, and the most likely. Adjust on the centerstand, check tension with the bike on the ground. Make sure it doesn't have any frozen links and that it is aligned properly. Bad chains are bad news.
The chain is the same one that came with the bike when I bought it last fall and I have been contemplating going ahead and replacing it. If that is the source of the issue then it would only work out in my benefit even more.

Any recommendations on an affordable and quality one?
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Old April 12th, 2023, 11:00 AM   #67
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I like RK chains for the good quality and decent price.

If you check the chain slack, roll the bike forward, check it again, and do that a couple more times, you may find that the slack is not constant. If that's the case, you definitely need a new one. Also, looks for links that don't want to straighten out between sprockets.
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Old May 1st, 2023, 09:10 AM   #68
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Yep, I can see those issues so going to have to get one.

I'm still learning so here's a dumb question: Are all chains the same size out of the box and have to adjust to the specific bike accordingly to ensure fit? Or is there a specific type/size of chain to buy first?

Went to my girlfriend's house last night, left the bike in her driveway, came out to drive it home early this morning and now my blinkers aren't working. At all. The indicator light on the instrument panel doesn't even come on, but everything else worked fine. These gremlins are really getting annoying.
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Old May 1st, 2023, 10:31 AM   #69
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Read here: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_r..._I_consider%3F

520 is your chain size. Error on the side of a longer chain and removing links with something like the PBR chain tool from Motion Pro (or similar).
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Old May 1st, 2023, 03:07 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
Went to my girlfriend's house last night, left the bike in her driveway, came out to drive it home early this morning and now my blinkers aren't working. At all. The indicator light on the instrument panel doesn't even come on, but everything else worked fine. These gremlins are really getting annoying.
There's a fuse just for the turn signals, so that's an easy first thing to check. Next on the list would probably be the flasher relay. It's a pretty simple circuit - power comes out of the fusebox, goes through the flasher, to the switch, then out to the lights on each side. The single dash indicator is actually connected to the + wires for each side (which leads to issues if you swap in LEDs).
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Old May 3rd, 2023, 09:02 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Read here: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_r..._I_consider%3F

520 is your chain size. Error on the side of a longer chain and removing links with something like the PBR chain tool from Motion Pro (or similar).
Awesome! Thanks Drew! That definitely helps narrow things down a bit and I can get that taken care of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
There's a fuse just for the turn signals, so that's an easy first thing to check. Next on the list would probably be the flasher relay. It's a pretty simple circuit - power comes out of the fusebox, goes through the flasher, to the switch, then out to the lights on each side. The single dash indicator is actually connected to the + wires for each side (which leads to issues if you swap in LEDs).
Okay. I can't stand dealing with wiring and anything electrical, just not my thing, so hopefully it is only the fuse.
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