tach/speedo not reading right

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 08:53 AM

I searched thru some threads and It doesn't really sound like a CDI issue, but here's what's going on:

it's been cold lately, 50's in the morning and evenings.

Bike starts up with no problems, I idle it for 5 minutes or so before driving, start up idle is around 3k for 2-3 minutes, then I turn off the choke and let it idle normally.

Bike has 5900 miles on it currently.

On the freeway, I'm seeing the tach at 7500RPM at 65MPH. When it was warmer, I was used to seeing 8500RPM at 65MPH. currently, sometimes during the afternoon when it's around 65-70, it will read normally. During the last month when it was warm, in the 80's, it read consistently 8500RPM at 65MPH.

The bike has a dynojet kit on it and a full yoshi exhaust (both by previous owner).

Is this just the way the bike is, or is there something wrong? It doesn't seem as if performance has been affected at all. The bike pulls normally.

I know the service interval is at 7500, but should I just have it done sooner?

Snake · October 28th, 2010, 09:03 AM

To me it still sounds like a CDI issue. If there is no power loss then I would not worry about it,

g21-30 · October 28th, 2010, 09:10 AM

50 MPH should be roughly 6000 RPM when cold, warm, or hot. More than that, I would say it's the CDI. I recently replaced my front tire with the BT-016 (OEM size) and my speedo still reads 50 MPH at 6K with OEM sprockets. When the original CDI was installed, the RPM would vary from 6K-7.5K at 50.

Alex · October 28th, 2010, 09:33 AM

CDI. If it's just a display problem, I wouldn't generally worry about it.

JMcDonald · October 28th, 2010, 09:49 AM

It sounds like it is normal now, whereas in the warmer weather the CDI was giving false readings.
Posted via Mobile Device

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

It sounds like it is normal now, whereas in the warmer weather the CDI was giving false readings.
Posted via Mobile Device

interesting. I'll need to find a mobile gps app for my iphone and figure out what the true speed is.

So if I replace the CDI with a sportisi one, will the display be corrected?

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 10:50 AM

so what makes the CDI so temp sensitive?

Alex · October 28th, 2010, 12:07 PM

Crap parts.

dubojr1 · October 28th, 2010, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

interesting. I'll need to find a mobile gps app for my iphone and figure out what the true speed is.

So if I replace the CDI with a sportisi one, will the display be corrected?

Yes it will.

As for an iPhone app... I used "speedometer." Works great!

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Yes it will.

As for an iPhone app... I used "speedometer." Works great!

Great. I'll put it on the "To Buy" list. I checked out that app, but it doesn't say that it records top speed. I don't have any way to mount my iphone while riding, so it would just sit in my pocket. Can you recommend any other apps?

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 12:45 PM

Just remembered my little brother has a navigon app that I can use.

JMcDonald · October 28th, 2010, 12:48 PM

There are aftermarket CDIs?
Posted via Mobile Device

CThunder-blue · October 28th, 2010, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

There are aftermarket CDIs?
Posted via Mobile Device

yep. Sportisi sells the BRT-TIS in programmable or non-programmable units.

Link to original page on YouTube.

http://www.sportisimoto-usa.com/ignition.php

HKr1 · October 28th, 2010, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

There are aftermarket CDIs?
Posted via Mobile Device

JMcDonald · October 29th, 2010, 04:42 AM

Oooh wow. And that will fix the tach (CDI overheating) issue?

Also, how are the stock maps set? Is the "Map 1" set with completely stock settings, with the second set with a degree or two of advance? If so, how noticable is it, and what octane is required to run this?

I am very interested

.

dubojr1 · October 29th, 2010, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

Oooh wow. And that will fix the tach (CDI overheating) issue?

Also, how are the stock maps set? Is the "Map 1" set with completely stock settings, with the second set with a degree or two of advance? If so, how noticable is it, and what octane is required to run this?

I am very interested

.

Here is some information for you. Matt (ztrack157) is the source for them. He did a group buy not too long ago when I got mine for $175 shipped I believe. 91+ is recommended once installed.

http://www.sportisimoto-usa.com/ignition.php

JMcDonald · October 29th, 2010, 05:47 AM

Yeah, I found that page (web link is pasted in the youtube video

, but it doesn't answer the questions I asked. The video says when he programmed his engine to add 1 degree of advance at I think 9000RPM, and then 2 degrees at like 11 or 12k, he had to add an octane booster (which means very little, really). But, that does not specify whether or not their 1st map is the same as stock, or how much the 2nd map advances, or even what exact octane was required for his tune.

dubojr1 · October 29th, 2010, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

Yeah, I found that page (web link is pasted in the youtube video

, but it doesn't answer the questions I asked. The video says when he programmed his engine to add 1 degree of advance at I think 9000RPM, and then 2 degrees at like 11 or 12k, he had to add an octane booster (which means very little, really). But, that does not specify whether or not their 1st map is the same as stock, or how much the 2nd map advances, or even what exact octane was required for his tune.

If I remember correctly Map 1 is NOT identical to stock but it has been adjusted to not exceed the limits of 87 octane fuel. It a degree or 2 different in spots. Map 2 is advanced more and 91+ is recommended. The advance numbers were on here somewhere but I can't seem to find them right now. There is quite a few threads on here about it or you could send Matt a PM.

JMcDonald · October 29th, 2010, 06:32 AM

Oh hell, I don't know why I didn't think to search :P . Thanks for the reminder

.

This is getting exciting!

dubojr1 · October 29th, 2010, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

Yeah, I found that page (web link is pasted in the youtube video

, but it doesn't answer the questions I asked. The video says when he programmed his engine to add 1 degree of advance at I think 9000RPM, and then 2 degrees at like 11 or 12k, he had to add an octane booster (which means very little, really). But, that does not specify whether or not their 1st map is the same as stock, or how much the 2nd map advances, or even what exact octane was required for his tune.

Here's the thread I think that has the numbers in it...

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...hlight=brt+set

CThunder-blue · October 29th, 2010, 08:06 AM

Wow. It fixes the stupid tach issue and gives better performance. I'm down with that. I need to sell some stuff for money tho. Can't spend more money on the CC.

g21-30 · October 29th, 2010, 08:48 AM

^^^You can always follow kkim and me and retrofit an '88-94 CDI! Price all depends on how good you search eBay!

CThunder-blue · October 29th, 2010, 09:01 AM

Thanks, but I'd rather not retrofit. It's not the wiring or anything that bothers me. I just don't like the idea of installing old/used parts on the ninja unless I really have to. It also gives me the advantage of making a little more HP. It's a win win (except for the ye olde wallet).

austexjg · October 29th, 2010, 01:58 PM

Doing the retro-fit is a good idea if it just the tach issue that concerns you. I think the gains in performance are about the same on the "butt dyno". The older ones seem to be a better quality, so it would not be adding an inferior part to a newer bike. A retro-fit and jet kit (or shimming) would be the best bang for buck combination.

setasai · October 29th, 2010, 05:44 PM

On that same note, what is a fairly good price for a 88-94 CDI? And what about the 94+ CDI's? Are they of cheaper quality as well?

wayanlam · October 29th, 2010, 07:43 PM

there is a newer BRT model out now,

i haven't seen it in person, nor asked what improvements it has over the other BRT, just know its available. haven't asked the price either, since im gonna be annoyed i have the older BRT now, hahaha...

from the box, the remote for the cdi looks different, i think ive seen a similar remote for another bike that was being tuned at sportisi, it has a dot matrix screen, rather than just the numerical thing. so its possible to read texts and stuff on the screen. reminded me of the old school game boy,

g21-30 · October 30th, 2010, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setasai

On that same note, what is a fairly good price for a 88-94 CDI? And what about the 94+ CDI's? Are they of cheaper quality as well?

No knowledge of '94+. As for price, you may find the '88 from $25-100+. You need to remember that you will also need a wiring harness from the same range.

kkim · October 30th, 2010, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

Thanks, but I'd rather not retrofit. It's not the wiring or anything that bothers me. I just don't like the idea of installing old/used parts on the ninja unless I really have to. It also gives me the advantage of making a little more HP. It's a win win (except for the ye olde wallet).

just keep in mind the BRT is not without it's own set of problems as well.

CThunder-blue · October 30th, 2010, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

just keep in mind the BRT is not without it's own set of problems as well.

care to elaborate or point me in the right direction of searches?

kkim · October 31st, 2010, 01:46 AM

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt

CThunder-blue · October 31st, 2010, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt

Thanks. I read those two, but I don't think 2 individual cases warrants saying the brt has problems. One of those was resolved and the kickstand issue was done that way by the manufacturer. I thought there might be some problem that occurs across th board.

austexjg · October 31st, 2010, 01:12 PM

I have one - it idles around 2000 RPMs instead of the old 1500 RPMs - sometimes it hangs at 2300 RPMs for a time before dropping to 2000 RPMs. But my bike is bone stock except for the BRT Tis.

JMcDonald · October 31st, 2010, 06:16 PM

Adjust your idle down. If timing is advanced across the board, the idle will be higher for the same amount of fuel and air burned.

wayanlam · October 31st, 2010, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austexjg

I have one - it idles around 2000 RPMs instead of the old 1500 RPMs - sometimes it hangs at 2300 RPMs for a time before dropping to 2000 RPMs. But my bike is bone stock except for the BRT Tis.

i have a similar issue, i think i wrote up about it on another thread.

when i try to tweak the idle rpm, i cant get it to idle at the 1500 that i used to have it set to. it either idles high at 2000~ rpm, or if i adjust it a micro-fraction, it drops down to 1000~1200.

ive tried fiddling about with it on multiple occasions, but it just doesnt stick to the 1500 that i want... so ive gone with the 1000~1200 idle rpm. it doesnt have any issues pulling out into 1st, i have a fair few mods, and the bike is probably running rich enough in the lower range with the #40 pilot jets, that the bike doesn't stall with the lower idle rev.

besides that, and the kickstand issue, the BRT doesnt seem to have any other issues, the RPM indicator is always accurate, and the bike pulls nicely when i want it to. lately a lot of my cruising seems to be around 4000~7500 rpm these days. i don't red line the bike as much as i used to when i first got her, lol...

i think its because i have improved the lower/mid range enough to make it adequate to drive in that rpm range now compared to when the bike was bone stock. also lets me gun the bike if i need to

October 28th, 2010, 08:53 AM	#1
CThunder-blue ModMy250.com Name: Tri Location: St, Louis Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.	tach/speedo not reading right I searched thru some threads and It doesn't really sound like a CDI issue, but here's what's going on: it's been cold lately, 50's in the morning and evenings. Bike starts up with no problems, I idle it for 5 minutes or so before driving, start up idle is around 3k for 2-3 minutes, then I turn off the choke and let it idle normally. Bike has 5900 miles on it currently. On the freeway, I'm seeing the tach at 7500RPM at 65MPH. When it was warmer, I was used to seeing 8500RPM at 65MPH. currently, sometimes during the afternoon when it's around 65-70, it will read normally. During the last month when it was warm, in the 80's, it read consistently 8500RPM at 65MPH. The bike has a dynojet kit on it and a full yoshi exhaust (both by previous owner). Is this just the way the bike is, or is there something wrong? It doesn't seem as if performance has been affected at all. The bike pulls normally. I know the service interval is at 7500, but should I just have it done sooner?

October 28th, 2010, 12:07 PM	#8
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Crap parts. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

October 29th, 2010, 06:32 AM	#19
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	Oh hell, I don't know why I didn't think to search :P . Thanks for the reminder . This is getting exciting! __________________________________________________ Factory Pro Jet Kit, K&N R-0990 Pod Filter, Sportisi VR Black Exhaust, BRT TIS Ignition, White Paint, and 16/41 Sprockets. Soon: Maybe a 37T Rear Sprocket if I get things running like I'd hoped.

October 29th, 2010, 07:43 PM	#26
wayanlam ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Wayan Location: Bali - Indonesia Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Z250 Posts: A lot.	there is a newer BRT model out now, i haven't seen it in person, nor asked what improvements it has over the other BRT, just know its available. haven't asked the price either, since im gonna be annoyed i have the older BRT now, hahaha... from the box, the remote for the cdi looks different, i think ive seen a similar remote for another bike that was being tuned at sportisi, it has a dot matrix screen, rather than just the numerical thing. so its possible to read texts and stuff on the screen. reminded me of the old school game boy, __________________________________________________ Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield

October 31st, 2010, 06:16 PM	#33
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	Adjust your idle down. If timing is advanced across the board, the idle will be higher for the same amount of fuel and air burned. __________________________________________________ Factory Pro Jet Kit, K&N R-0990 Pod Filter, Sportisi VR Black Exhaust, BRT TIS Ignition, White Paint, and 16/41 Sprockets. Soon: Maybe a 37T Rear Sprocket if I get things running like I'd hoped.

October 28th, 2010, 09:03 AM	#2
Snake ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rick Location: Alexandria, Louisiana Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Blue Ninja 250 Posts: Too much. MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14	To me it still sounds like a CDI issue. If there is no power loss then I would not worry about it,

October 28th, 2010, 09:10 AM	#3
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	50 MPH should be roughly 6000 RPM when cold, warm, or hot. More than that, I would say it's the CDI. I recently replaced my front tire with the BT-016 (OEM size) and my speedo still reads 50 MPH at 6K with OEM sprockets. When the original CDI was installed, the RPM would vary from 6K-7.5K at 50.

October 28th, 2010, 09:33 AM	#4
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	CDI. If it's just a display problem, I wouldn't generally worry about it. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

October 28th, 2010, 09:49 AM	#5
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	It sounds like it is normal now, whereas in the warmer weather the CDI was giving false readings. Posted via Mobile Device

October 28th, 2010, 10:50 AM	#7
CThunder-blue ModMy250.com Name: Tri Location: St, Louis Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.	so what makes the CDI so temp sensitive?

October 28th, 2010, 12:45 PM	#11
CThunder-blue ModMy250.com Name: Tri Location: St, Louis Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.	Just remembered my little brother has a navigon app that I can use.

October 28th, 2010, 12:48 PM	#12
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	There are aftermarket CDIs? Posted via Mobile Device

October 29th, 2010, 04:42 AM	#15
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	Oooh wow. And that will fix the tach (CDI overheating) issue? Also, how are the stock maps set? Is the "Map 1" set with completely stock settings, with the second set with a degree or two of advance? If so, how noticable is it, and what octane is required to run this? I am very interested .

October 29th, 2010, 05:47 AM	#17
JMcDonald ninjette.org sage Name: J Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771	Yeah, I found that page (web link is pasted in the youtube video , but it doesn't answer the questions I asked. The video says when he programmed his engine to add 1 degree of advance at I think 9000RPM, and then 2 degrees at like 11 or 12k, he had to add an octane booster (which means very little, really). But, that does not specify whether or not their 1st map is the same as stock, or how much the 2nd map advances, or even what exact octane was required for his tune.

October 29th, 2010, 08:06 AM	#21
CThunder-blue ModMy250.com Name: Tri Location: St, Louis Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.	Wow. It fixes the stupid tach issue and gives better performance. I'm down with that. I need to sell some stuff for money tho. Can't spend more money on the CC.

October 29th, 2010, 08:48 AM	#22
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	^^^You can always follow kkim and me and retrofit an '88-94 CDI! Price all depends on how good you search eBay!

October 29th, 2010, 09:01 AM	#23
CThunder-blue ModMy250.com Name: Tri Location: St, Louis Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.	Thanks, but I'd rather not retrofit. It's not the wiring or anything that bothers me. I just don't like the idea of installing old/used parts on the ninja unless I really have to. It also gives me the advantage of making a little more HP. It's a win win (except for the ye olde wallet).

October 29th, 2010, 01:58 PM	#24
austexjg ninjette.org sage Name: J.G. Location: Austin Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 zx6r Green/Black, (ex-)Diablo Black '09 Ninja 250r Posts: 959	Doing the retro-fit is a good idea if it just the tach issue that concerns you. I think the gains in performance are about the same on the "butt dyno". The older ones seem to be a better quality, so it would not be adding an inferior part to a newer bike. A retro-fit and jet kit (or shimming) would be the best bang for buck combination.

October 29th, 2010, 05:44 PM	#25
setasai ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Brian Location: Detroit, MI Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Green Posts: A lot.	On that same note, what is a fairly good price for a 88-94 CDI? And what about the 94+ CDI's? Are they of cheaper quality as well?

October 31st, 2010, 01:46 AM	#30
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=brt

October 31st, 2010, 01:12 PM	#32
austexjg ninjette.org sage Name: J.G. Location: Austin Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 zx6r Green/Black, (ex-)Diablo Black '09 Ninja 250r Posts: 959	I have one - it idles around 2000 RPMs instead of the old 1500 RPMs - sometimes it hangs at 2300 RPMs for a time before dropping to 2000 RPMs. But my bike is bone stock except for the BRT Tis.