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Old April 18th, 2014, 08:36 PM   #1
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fixing a holed tank

the fixer I just bought had the dreaded hole in the gas tank from too long of a bolt, here's how I fixed it

used a spot weld cutter (a small hole saw in a drill) that you can pickup from an auto body shop.DSCF0030.JPG

after removing the threaded plate you have access to the hole to be repaired.DSCF0023.JPGDSCF0024.JPG

clean around the hole with sandpaper or emery cloth then cut a small chunk of sheet metal (clean this also) to cover the hole.DSCF0025.JPG


apply soldering paste to the tank and sheet metal and solder in place.DSCF0026.JPG






DO NOT USE A TORCH TO SOLDER!! Use a soldering gun, the small ones probably won't make enough heat to get the job done.DSCF0028.JPG


check to be sure you've got the hole sealed after soldering.

lastly solder the threaded plate back in place and your done.DSCF0032.JPG


by using a soldering gun you don't have the worries of a gas tank explosion like with welding or brazing.
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Old April 18th, 2014, 10:17 PM   #2
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Old April 19th, 2014, 10:11 AM   #3
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Nice job! I got a hole in mine but I just sealed it with lots of teflon tape on the bolt . I don't use the stock fairing on my streamliner so it isn't critical other than preventing a fuel leak.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 12:04 PM   #4
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If you fill the tank with waterand drain it, you can weld it....
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Old May 4th, 2014, 01:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by gustav129 View Post
If you fill the tank with waterand drain it, you can weld it....
Lol. I will weld it if you sit on it while I am welding.

I hate to be an ass, but the sheet metal used in gas tanks is porous and I have proven to myself beyond a shadow of a doubt that once you fill a tank and let that tank sit you will never get all of the gas out of the metal. Many around here say it is a question of when it will flash over and not if.

If you have a different experience I would love to hear it. I have not one but two holes in this tank and will attempt a repair some day. So far the soldering idea is the best I have seen.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 04:39 PM   #6
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I just used some gas tank sealer from autozone and stuffed it in the hole with a tiny screwdriver
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Old May 4th, 2014, 04:49 PM   #7
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seems like a better route to take than replacing the entire tank, thanks!!
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Old May 4th, 2014, 05:29 PM   #8
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Lol. I will weld it if you sit on it while I am welding.

I hate to be an ass, but the sheet metal used in gas tanks is porous and I have proven to myself beyond a shadow of a doubt that once you fill a tank and let that tank sit you will never get all of the gas out of the metal. Many around here say it is a question of when it will flash over and not if.

If you have a different experience I would love to hear it. I have not one but two holes in this tank and will attempt a repair some day. So far the soldering idea is the best I have seen.

I let a tank sit with the cap and petcock removed for several weeks after draining the gas and had it welded with no problems. There has to be just the right combination of fumes and air in order for it to explode. If you're in a hurry, fill it with water and weld, but it's not necessary.


Quote:
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I just used some gas tank sealer from autozone and stuffed it in the hole with a tiny screwdriver
If you need to seal a hole, use Caswell epoxy: http://www.caswellplating.com/restor...nk-sealer.html. No need to weld, adheres well to rust, strengthens the tank, doesn't fail like Kreem, POR13 and similar tank sealers, and prevents rusting in the future. Just tape over the hole and install according to directions. There's enough to do two small tanks in one package.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 05:37 PM   #9
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Yep filling it with water and welding is just fine. Id never weld any tank that has had gas in it empty even if its been setting for a year but that's just me.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 05:53 PM   #10
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...apply soldering paste to the tank and sheet metal and solder in place.
What type of solder did you use? Silver solder?
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Old May 4th, 2014, 06:03 PM   #11
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i had a hole in the same spot. Just mixed up some epoxy from autoboys that bonds to metal. Of course it seals the hole, so you cant put the bolt throuh it. but its fine.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 07:52 PM   #12
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What type of solder did you use? Silver solder?


I used just normal, tin;lead solder, like you'd sweat copper pipes with. Silver solder takes a lot more heat, I don't think you can get it hot enough with a soldering gun.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 08:06 PM   #13
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I let a tank sit with the cap and petcock removed for several weeks after draining the gas and had it welded with no problems. There has to be just the right combination of fumes and air in order for it to explode. If you're in a hurry, fill it with water and weld, but it's not necessary.
It's good to see that it's possible but I think it goes against everything a person has ever learned in life. Its like people who are afraid to touch an electrical wire even if its not on. I know there was gas in there, I know I would be applying copious amounts of heat, I am afraid of explosions and shrapnel in my chest...
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Old May 5th, 2014, 04:21 AM   #14
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Solder

Good repair if you don't have what is called "cold solder joint" where it does not flow. For the best low temperature solder repairs to steel, there is a solder called "StayBrite 88 (no longer in production), or StayBrite 8, the replacement for "88"". It is a soft (roll) solder that is 5% silver. You need good liquid acid flux and good technique to make it work. We use it in our line of work. It also can work on brass, bronze, and stainless.

When I weld or solder a gas tank, I drain it, dry it out, do the prep work for the repair, and use active purge with inert gas. Usually 75/25 co2/argon shield gas at a few cfh to keep the nasty oxygen at bay.

My dad used to hook a hose to the car exhaust and stick it in the tank while welding. Old School, but it worked.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 06:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N-m View Post
Lol. I will weld it if you sit on it while I am welding.

I hate to be an ass, but the sheet metal used in gas tanks is porous and I have proven to myself beyond a shadow of a doubt that once you fill a tank and let that tank sit you will never get all of the gas out of the metal. Many around here say it is a question of when it will flash over and not if.

If you have a different experience I would love to hear it. I have not one but two holes in this tank and will attempt a repair some day. So far the soldering idea is the best I have seen.
I've seen gas tanks welded numerous times.

Completely drain the tank and let it sit outside in the sun for a day or so until it's completely dry.

It's always best to clean the area where you will be welding with a grinder disc to remove any paint or rust.

You will need a source of compressed air and a way to control it to get a moderate flow while welding. Put the air nozzle inside the filler opening. Too much air flow will disrupt the shielding gas, especially if you have a large opening at the weld area.

Keep a steady flow of air moving before and during the welding process and all of the flammable vapors will be gone.

I personally wouldn't fill a tank with water. Gas residue may adhere to the metal after the gas is evaporated, but sheetmetal isn't porous. If you were still concerned, you could spray some Brake Cleaner around inside the tank and give it time to evaporate - but I don't think that's necessary.

If you don't feel comfortable with this technique - don't do it - but I have seen it done numerous times without incident.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 02:43 PM   #16
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Looks like other people beat me to it.... the other option purging it with an inert gas such as argon or exhaust fumes.
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Old May 11th, 2014, 06:43 PM   #17
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Just JB welded mine, didn't even think to take that screw plate off
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Old May 12th, 2014, 08:17 AM   #18
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This has got to be the best post I have seen on the subject anywhere. Not only do we finally have a look at what it's actually like under there, we have a fix! Thanks, OP!

Now I won't avoid leaky tanks on eBay/Craigslist.

Edit: @Z1R rider
Will this do the trick?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Spot-...item5660c56f72

Is it the right size?
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Old May 12th, 2014, 01:38 PM   #19
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This has got to be the best post I have seen on the subject anywhere. Not only do we finally have a look at what it's actually like under there, we have a fix! Thanks, OP!

Now I won't avoid leaky tanks on eBay/Craigslist.

Edit: @Z1R rider
Will this do the trick?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Spot-...item5660c56f72

Is it the right size?
That looks like what I have, the point is spring loaded, just centerpunch the spot weld and the point will set in the punch mark. go slow and steady so that the spotweld cutter doesn't jump out of the punch mark, and don't cut too deep or you'll have more holes to fix. The hole saw part is threaded onto the point so if you break the teeth, you can unscrew it, turn it around and have new saw teeth. you can also buy new hole saws to screw onto the point.
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Old May 14th, 2014, 09:00 PM   #20
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Just picked up a 3/8ths spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight.
On sale for $5 but nabbed it for $4 using a 20% off coupon.

Thanks again!
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Old February 3rd, 2016, 09:23 PM   #21
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I've seen gas tanks welded numerous times.

Completely drain the tank and let it sit outside in the sun for a day or so until it's completely dry.

It's always best to clean the area where you will be welding with a grinder disc to remove any paint or rust.

You will need a source of compressed air and a way to control it to get a moderate flow while welding. Put the air nozzle inside the filler opening. Too much air flow will disrupt the shielding gas, especially if you have a large opening at the weld area.

Keep a steady flow of air moving before and during the welding process and all of the flammable vapors will be gone.

I personally wouldn't fill a tank with water. Gas residue may adhere to the metal after the gas is evaporated, but sheetmetal isn't porous. If you were still concerned, you could spray some Brake Cleaner around inside the tank and give it time to evaporate - but I don't think that's necessary.

If you don't feel comfortable with this technique - don't do it - but I have seen it done numerous times without incident.

Sorry, cant let this slide by
Take no offence, but............

Holy ****!!!!!!!! don't purge with air and weld . If your going to weld a fuel tank you must use an inert gas and follow a procedure. MUST MUST MUST.
Brake cleaner, Hell no. Sorry but I'm a welder and NO welder who knows his stuff would purge with air, Ever. You see I'm trying to make it very clear so nobody winds up dead. 6 months ago a mate spent a week on hospital because he ground through a diesel tank, washed with steam only. It went bang, he went across the room, shrapnel happened and he was lucky to live
Even diesel can go boom.
Don't take my word for it, ask a welder or a welding forum.
We don't do tanks at work now because even with the correct procedures there is still risk and a $100 dollar weld job on a tank isn't worth risking not going home.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 07:37 AM   #22
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Sorry, cant let this slide by
Take no offence, but............

Holy ****!!!!!!!! don't purge with air and weld . If your going to weld a fuel tank you must use an inert gas and follow a procedure. MUST MUST MUST.
Brake cleaner, Hell no. Sorry but I'm a welder and NO welder who knows his stuff would purge with air, Ever. You see I'm trying to make it very clear so nobody winds up dead. 6 months ago a mate spent a week on hospital because he ground through a diesel tank, washed with steam only. It went bang, he went across the room, shrapnel happened and he was lucky to live
Even diesel can go boom.
Don't take my word for it, ask a welder or a welding forum.
We don't do tanks at work now because even with the correct procedures there is still risk and a $100 dollar weld job on a tank isn't worth risking not going home.
I'm not a welder, and haven't welded a tank - but I have seen it done as I stated. The welding that was done were mostly tack welds to hold a mounting bracket that had broken loose on a small engine gas tank. I understand that not having inert gas inside the tank will cause oxidation of the weld. For the type of welding that was being done it wasn't critical.

The Brake Cleaner was suggested for use if you had added water to the tank - not before welding. I know there is a dangerous chemical reaction that takes place when welding over it.

Your precautions are well deserved. Really best to leave welding of things like gas tanks to the experts.
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Old April 14th, 2016, 10:51 AM   #23
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I'm curious, since I have no firsthand experience with this... Will the repaired tank still be susceptible to the issue of a too-long bolt punching through? I suppose it probably depends on the exact details of your repair job as to how easy it would be to punch through again... Would it be possible and worthwhile to block the threads at the end of the mounting plate, to keep a bolt from being able to go all the way through?
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Old April 14th, 2016, 01:40 PM   #24
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Will the repaired tank still be susceptible to the issue of a too-long bolt punching through?


I would think you could still push through again, but I used a piece of 22 gauge for the repair so it would be tougher to get through (about twice as heavy it looks). I would certainly think most people would learn after ruining a tank the first time.
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Old April 14th, 2016, 02:13 PM   #25
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I would think you could still push through again, but I used a piece of 22 gauge for the repair so it would be tougher to get through (about twice as heavy it looks). I would certainly think most people would learn after ruining a tank the first time.
I'm not an idiot, but I still like to make things idiot-proof when I can. =)

I guess I was more wondering if the proper-length bolt goes completely through the threaded mounting plate into an airgap before the tank, or if the end of the bolt is within the threads. If the bolt doesn't need to go all the way through, and you can alter the threads on the end a bit to stop a longer bolt before it gets to the tank, that seems like some simple insurance while you're in there anyway. Or maybe you could use a little piece of the sheet metal mounted perpendicular to the tank behind the bolt (which would be much harder to get through).

Again, I'm just curious and thinking out loud. I tend to see the potential in everything, so my brain always looks for possible upgrades and fixes (beyond just "Don't do that again, stupid!"). If there's some way to just stop the longer bolt from screwing in all the way, without interfering with the proper bolt, that seems ideal to me.
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Old April 14th, 2016, 05:52 PM   #26
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I wasn't insinuating anything about anyone, . That being said, I couldn't tell you if the bolt goes all the way through. I would think that it could be measured without any dismantling with a caliper
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Old March 16th, 2019, 11:06 AM   #27
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Hey, I like the solder. As far as welding on a tank. Rinse with soapy water 2 times then use boiling water 2 times, it will remove all the hydro-carbons and it's safe to weld.
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Old June 11th, 2021, 05:53 PM   #28
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Exclamation Recall is still in effect!

Checked the NHTSA website about this recall, it is still in effect. All recalls issued by the NHTSA do NOT expire ever! So if you need a new tank check the NHTSA's website to see if you are eligible for a new tank at no cost to you. Because it's a recall they are legally obligated to give you a replacement tank for free.
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