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Old December 5th, 2008, 07:42 PM   #1
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Motorcycle Oil Info - By a Retired Chemist

This is an excellent article and probably should be considered for a Sticky Link

It definitely should answer all your questions about what oil can be used in your bike. It answered mine!

http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
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Old December 5th, 2008, 07:47 PM   #2
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lol... wish I had said what he is saying in that.
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Old December 5th, 2008, 08:37 PM   #3
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I know the guy that runs vfrworld pretty well; neat guy and neat forum.
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Old December 5th, 2008, 11:23 PM   #4
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Wow this is good news. I do like this point number 5. I mean... "where's your evidence?"

My dad recently bought a crate of Royal Purple 10w40 for the Accord. Since its not "energy conserving" I can throw that in my bike.
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Old December 6th, 2008, 08:13 AM   #5
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Shell Rotella T is once again highly recommended by someone who should know. No big surprise there.
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Old December 6th, 2008, 08:41 AM   #6
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I have used Shell Rotella-T in my inboard diesel on our sailboat for 20yrs. I`ll have to check to see if they make a 10W-40. They make a 15W-40 which is what I use for the inboard and our diesel Chevy Suburban.
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Old December 7th, 2008, 11:17 PM   #7
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So who's going to post up a "how to change your oil DIY"? nudge... nudge....

(and I think this article would be a nice link off of that one, but may not need to be a standalone DIY)
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Old December 7th, 2008, 11:57 PM   #8
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So who's going to post up a "how to change your oil DIY"? nudge... nudge....

(and I think this article would be a nice link off of that one, but may not need to be a standalone DIY)
Gee?? I wonder who??

If no one posts one before I need to do mine (Vex!!! Change your oil, now!!! ) in a hundred miles or so, I'll snap some pics the next time I change my oil, but as I remember, they have a great one in the owner's manual!
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Old December 8th, 2008, 08:36 AM   #9
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Alex, With all those superb DIYs, we won`t need our shop manuals. I can`t do pictures, but here is all you need to change the oil: You need a 17mm socket and a torque wrench. I catch the oil in a stainless bowl (available in the Dollar Stores) You first warm up the engine with a ride around the block a couple of times. You then put the bowl under the bike and using your 17mm socket, you take off the drain plug--Owner`s Manual, pages 82 and 83. Allow to drain. After everything stops dripping, you take the 17mm socket and remove the Oil Filter---Page 83 (B). When everything is drained, You assemble the filter housing (page 84) and put everything back together. Replace the rubber O ring. Tighten the filter housing and the drain plug finger tight and then take your trusty torque wrench and tighten the housing and drain plug to 14.5 Foot Pounds. Fill the oil tank with the oil of your choice--1.8US qt. Start the engine and let it IDLE until the oil light goes off. Also check for leaks around the drain plug and filter housing.
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Old December 8th, 2008, 04:29 PM   #10
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IF y'all do take pics (and yes, I really did just say y'all ) be sure to get the o-ring that's 'hidden' that no one can seem to find the first time
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Old December 8th, 2008, 05:42 PM   #11
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Could I could I?? I'd be apt to doing a write-up on it, but there's already a pretty good one elsewhere I did throw in the tidbit on how to remove the screen though which might be of benefit. I don't have an oil change due for about 1,200 miles though... Whoever does the oil change I could supply the pics on the screen
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Old December 8th, 2008, 05:44 PM   #12
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...but there's already a pretty good one elsewhere
Sounds like the trick is to convince that author to see the light and spend some time over here; then cajole them to putting it up themselves...
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Old December 8th, 2008, 05:49 PM   #13
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Could I could I?? I'd be apt to doing a write-up on it, but there's already a pretty good one elsewhere I did throw in the tidbit on how to remove the screen though which might be of benefit. I don't have an oil change due for about 1,200 miles though... Whoever does the oil change I could supply the pics on the screen
damn... looks like I'll need to be really careful and not put a hundred miles on mine for a few months then.

elsewhere doesn't count...
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 12:03 PM   #14
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Angry

I wimped out and bought "motorcycle oil today.....
$9.99 a quart. I wasn't sure which car oil to use and the guy at the counter wasn't any help. I went to the autopart store only because I showed up for an appointment to early and need to burn some time. What I think we really need is a list of oils that people have used without any adverse effects.
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 12:20 PM   #15
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I thought that it is not advised to use automotive oil but now I know it's just not advised to use energy conserving.

I put the Kawasaki 4-stroke synthetic 10w-40 in my bike and it seemed to like it. This was its second oil change (3500). The oil is actually green and no it's not antifreeze! The dealer said it's made by Motul for Kawi.
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 01:23 PM   #16
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I have used Castrol Motorcycle 10W-40. It's never given me an issue and is fairly affordable.
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 02:29 PM   #17
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idk. it may not be necessary, but i feel better using motorcycle oil. as of my last change, i am using motorex semi-synthetic, because that is what the shop was selling. they didn't have full synthetic in my weight afaik.
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Old May 4th, 2009, 01:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JaeL View Post
I wimped out and bought "motorcycle oil today.....
$9.99 a quart. I wasn't sure which car oil to use and the guy at the counter wasn't any help. I went to the autopart store only because I showed up for an appointment to early and need to burn some time. What I think we really need is a list of oils that people have used without any adverse effects.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_o...NOT_be_used%3F
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Old May 4th, 2009, 04:30 AM   #19
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I've exchanged quite a few emails with Mike 'the oil guy', back when he was an active lister on the old school vf/vfr mailing list. Really nice guy.

BTW: I've used Rotella Syn in the gallon jug in my '00 VFR for, well, since the second oil change in '01. Valves were in spec when I checked this March, and no visible issues with the cams. I've got another 400 miles to go with the ninjette before I have to change the oil in it...
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Old May 4th, 2009, 06:23 AM   #20
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I uses moble 1 synthetic 10-40 motorcycle oil
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Old May 4th, 2009, 09:01 AM   #21
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+1 for the mobile 1 synth motorcycle oil. Got mine at autozone for less than 10 bucks a quart.
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Old May 5th, 2009, 07:37 AM   #22
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+1 for the mobile 1 synth motorcycle oil. Got mine at autozone for less than 10 bucks a quart.

$9.99 is what I got it for.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 12:42 PM   #23
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I hate to be a skeptic, but are there any scientific studies showing any difference in performance or protection or something in motorcycle oils? All I see on the Internet are totally subjective opinions regarding this subject.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 01:14 PM   #24
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I thought that it is not advised to use automotive oil but now I know it's just not advised to use energy conserving.

I put the Kawasaki 4-stroke synthetic 10w-40 in my bike and it seemed to like it. This was its second oil change (3500). The oil is actually green and no it's not antifreeze! The dealer said it's made by Motul for Kawi.
They actually have green oil.
Gonna add that to my mod list

I have the mobil 1 synth to. Havent switched yet though.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 05:11 PM   #25
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Has anyone used ROTELLA T SB 0W-30 in their ninjette? I can't get 5w40 here in Vancouver, but jugs of T SB 0w30 is cheap and plentiful.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 05:31 PM   #26
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Has anyone used ROTELLA T SB 0W-30 in their ninjette? I can't get 5w40 here in Vancouver, but jugs of T SB 0w30 is cheap and plentiful.
I just purchased a gallon of Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 at Walmart today, but I have yet to use any synthetic oil in my bike.

There are only 2 real differences between a 5W40 and a 0W30. One is the pour point. And one is a 30 grade oil, while the other is a 40 grade. Theoretically, the 0w30 will flow better than the 5W40 when cold which should result in lower wear while the oil is warming up. But many will say that a 0W30 is too "thin". The first number of a multi-viscosity oil's rating is a measure of its viscosity at 100F and the second a measure of its viscosity at 212F. A 0W30 behaves like an SAE 0 at 100F, but retains enough viscosity to behave like an SAE 30 grade at 212F. A 5W40 behaves like an SAE 5 at 100F, but retains enough viscosity to behave like an SAE 40 grade at 212F. But, that doesn't mean a 0W30 is "thinner". Even a 0W30 has a viscosity about 5-6 times higher at 100F than it does at 212F.

Bottom line, if 0W-30 is all you can find and you want to use synthetic, go with the 0W-30! Make sure the oil is not "Energy Conserving", i.e. has no entry in the bottom half of the circle.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 05:38 PM   #27
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I dunno. The Rotella 0w-30 you're looking at is not a full synthetic, is it??? ... is that what you're looking for?

If not, I'd buy any of the other 10w-40 oils available. With the weather warming up, I don't know if I'd want a 30w oil in the bike unless the temps there don't get above 30C/86F.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 05:59 PM   #28
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After looking around, I think my choices are basically cheap dino oil, 10w40, Castrol, Motomaster (Canadian Tire house brand), and some other no name, or synthetic, Amsoil 10w40 @ $20/Quart and Rotella T SB 0W30 @ $20/Gal.

I do want to switch to synth, so I might end up just going with the more expensive Amsoil. It does get rave reviews, and for the number of times that I'll do oil changes, it really doesn't cost *that* much

Edit: The temps here generally stay below 30C. Looking online, I think I might be able to get the correct Shell oil: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...52C%2B5W40.jsp . There wasn't a spot on the shelf for this at any of the stores I've been to. The listing of Shell Rotella synth oils is here: http://www.shell.ca/home/content/ca-...ine_oil.html#4
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Old June 14th, 2009, 06:28 PM   #29
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okay... it wasn't listed here...
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...n/welcome.html


how many miles on your bike?
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Old June 14th, 2009, 06:47 PM   #30
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Only ~1250miles (2000km), so I'm not exactly in a hurry, but I am trying to figure out what my options are.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 07:18 PM   #31
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I switched to Rotella 5w-40 synthetic at 1000 miles and have had no problems from it. The shifting got smoother.

if you can't find a full synth, are there semi synth options available?

I'd suggest running at least a 40wt oil, though.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 07:39 PM   #32
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I switched to Rotella 5w-40 synthetic at 1000 miles and have had no problems from it. The shifting got smoother.
I was gonna post that for ya. LOL
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Old June 15th, 2009, 06:26 AM   #33
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How come i can't find ROTELLA T 10w40 anywhere? All I see is 15W40 or 5W40 Syn.
Do they even make them?
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Old June 15th, 2009, 07:00 AM   #34
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No 10W40 for Rotella T.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...roducts08.html
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Old June 15th, 2009, 07:58 AM   #35
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Strangely it looks like Shell does have 10w40 synth in Canada, or at least on their Canadian website.

Edit: Synthetic Blend, not pure Synth...
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Old June 15th, 2009, 08:25 AM   #36
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Can I use the 15W40?
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Old June 15th, 2009, 08:28 AM   #37
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I think the 15W40 is classified as 'multigrade', which isn't pure synthetic
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Old June 15th, 2009, 02:35 PM   #38
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Talking

Hmmm after reading all posted here, Great INFO btw GUYS! THANKS!!!

I just have afew questions left, b4 i make my mind up on my Oil/Oilchange...

ATM i have 1,537 miles on my Ninja, and was wondering..

1) would it be Better for my Clutch/Engine overall, to Change my oil
(stock 10w40 kawi oil, last changed @ 610 miles) Now this weekend?

2) change it once i get 3,000-4,000 miles on the Ninja ?
(still with the stock 10w40 kawi oil in it)
*i mean, will the wear and tear of waiting like 2,000 miles till next oil change Really shorten the Life of my Engine/Clutch Lasting like that 100,000 mile dude?


3)Will the Rotella T 5w40 VOID my Engine Warranty? (i have 5 yrs total of warranty)

Im thinking of using the Shell Rotella T 5w40 FTR*
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Old June 15th, 2009, 02:37 PM   #39
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Old September 6th, 2009, 08:56 AM   #40
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Quote:
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I dunno. The Rotella 0w-30 you're looking at is not a full synthetic, is it??? ... is that what you're looking for?

If not, I'd buy any of the other 10w-40 oils available. With the weather warming up, I don't know if I'd want a 30w oil in the bike unless the temps there don't get above 30C/86F.
So I should be ok with a 10w30 oil in my bike? We have barely gone above 30 this year...some years we do get to 40c but not this year
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