Battery overcharge issue.

[Shadowninja]

I purchased a 2011 ninja 250, I rode it around a couple times and the last time I rode it, the battery over heated and blew out a cell and was 180° F after it sat for a little bit. Checked the voltage on the battery and once I start it, it would shoot up to 17 volts at idle and 19+ Revved up. When this happened I was riding and tried to give it throttle and it wouldn’t speed up it was slowing down as I was hitting the throttle. I pulled over didn’t know what was going on I look at the seat and it’s smoking, took it to near advanced and they checked the voltages that I mentioned above. I changed the regulator and it didn’t help. I then changed stator and the battery is now not being over charged but now the bike is very dead. It starts and revs up very sluggishly. It has low power to it, the turn signals, brake light and headlight aren’t working along with the speedo and the tach. Pretty much none of the electronics are working besides the fuel gauge. I’m thinking some boards got fried from all that voltage, idk which ones i don’t know where to look or where to start. All fuses seem good maybe I’m missing a couple fuse locations. there has to be some kind of protection for these type of situations and doesn’t straight fry the wiring on the bike. Please help on what it may be!!

[Alex]

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[Ghostt]

If it's an overcharge issue, I'd say the rectifier/regulator isn't working.

I suggest you pick up a used one, you can find one cheap enough.

Most of the time when it goes bad, it will blow the main fuse, as not to damage the other electronics. So I can not offer any other help as far as that goes.

[ducatiman]

"I changed the regulator and it didn’t help. I then changed stator and the battery is now not being over charged but now the bike is very dead. It starts and revs up very sluggishly. It has low power to it, the turn signals, brake light and headlight aren’t working along with the speedo and the tach."

No mention of immediately replacing the battery? Output up to 19V IS well enough to blow individual bulbs, start checking there. A stand alone stator output test is called for to assure controlled, consistent AC output in all 3 phases. If acceptable follow with a voltage regulator DC output test. Once these outputs have been assured, troubleshoot individual troublesome circuits for melted connectors and wiring....fully stripping bodywork for harness/connector inspection. Very surprised to hear no blown fuses.

Get the factory service manual and a DVM in hand. Good luck with it.