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Old August 29th, 2022, 11:12 PM   #1
arvindb
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Repairing wiring harness modification (ignition)

Recently bought a used Ninja 250 (2012), ran great for about a month. Tried starting it up a couple days ago bike suddenly had no electricals with the key on. Fuses good, battery and connections seemed good, so went ahead and removed the gas tank to try and verify the ignition connections and was presented with this beauty.

It appears the previous owner replaced the ignition and shoddily spliced a custom connector into the wiring harness. I tried reseating one of the more obviously loose spliced connections and sure enough, the dash lit right up. Also, they appear to have melted the connector on both sides when heat shrinking and they're fused together. Might be able to force them apart, but will most certainly need to be replaced after.

So, wanted to consult the forums for some advice on how to fix this mess. I'm comfortable with electric work but a little nervous messing with it as there is not a lot of slack on the wiring harness. Not sure what I need to further disassemble in order to get some more room to work and what connectors to replace with. TIA
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Old August 30th, 2022, 07:27 AM   #2
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Hi and welcome!!

Where was loose connection?
One of butt crimps?
Or where terminals go into connector?

Here's some info that may help with wiring. Intro to moto wiring: MO Wrenching: How To Properly Splice Wires

Here's good guide to joining wires to good-as-OEM condition:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Note that crimped-only connections are very poor joints. All wiring in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications are tied/crimped, soldered and heat-shrink wrapped for performance, durability and reliability.

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Old August 30th, 2022, 07:59 AM   #3
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1. easiest way to save this to remove terminals from harness-side connector (take photos so you can re-insert to proper positions). Terminal extraction tools

Then solder both ends of those butt-crimps to ensure good electrical conductivity

Slide over 2" section of adhesive heat-shrink tubing for strain-relief and corrosion protection

Put little dab of solder at ends of wires with connector terminals. Just tiny bit to seal ends of wire to prevent moisture from creeping down between wire-strands to cause black/green wire disease.

Verify catch-tab on terminals are protruding properly

Re-insert terminals into connector.
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Old August 30th, 2022, 08:49 AM   #4
arvindb
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Loose connection was on the but crimp, red wire actually came completely free when just moving around to take pictures. The connections between the harness and the ignition seemed electrically fine, despite the housing being melted - verified continuity across each wire.

Sounds like a plan, thanks. Think I may just solder the loose connection to get it running for now, and properly replace all the butt connectors this weekend.

Just out of curiosity, any idea was the PO was even trying to do here? Is the current connector on the ignition side not the same as the OEM connector?
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Old August 30th, 2022, 09:32 AM   #5
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Looks like he chopped off harness-side connection to perhaps install 100-ohm resistor to work with aftermarket switch?

Maybe he chopped too short and had to reconnect extra segment?

It really doesn't make any sense.

Then again, we do inherit lots of odd wiring jobs from POs...
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Old August 30th, 2022, 09:39 AM   #6
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*shrug*

Was expecting a faulty ignition switch and was planning to replace it, so at least this is an easier/cheaper fix I guess. Thanks for the help.
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Old September 6th, 2022, 03:42 PM   #7
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So, your ignition key doesn’t fit the other stuff (tank, seat)? If you can drill out the break-away bolts holding the ignition cylinder to the top triple clamp then $24.01 will get you a complete knock-off lock set that all takes the same key.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33369955094...mis&media=COPY

Edit: Hmm… maybe that one is real. All the slightly more expensive ones have a key that doesn’t say “Kawasaki.” Not only do these have the logo and text according to the picture, they even have the little metal key code tag I got on my original key from the dealer.

I already put way too much time and effort into refurbishing mine. Ordering one myself!
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Old September 6th, 2022, 07:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
So, your ignition key doesn’t fit the other stuff (tank, seat)? If you can drill out the break-away bolts holding the ignition cylinder to the top triple clamp then $24.01 will get you a complete knock-off lock set that all takes the same key.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33369955094...mis&media=COPY

Edit: Hmm… maybe that one is real. All the slightly more expensive ones have a key that doesn’t say “Kawasaki.” Not only do these have the logo and text according to the picture, they even have the little metal key code tag I got on my original key from the dealer.

I already put way too much time and effort into refurbishing mine. Ordering one myself!
Wow, those look like real deal, eh?

I found this outfit can cut you brand-new keys if you send them key-code. Takes about 3-4 days $14.
https://www.cyclekeysonline.com/kawasaki-keys
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Old September 6th, 2022, 08:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Wow, those look like real deal, eh?

I found this outfit can cut you brand-new keys if you send them key-code. Takes about 3-4 days $14.
https://www.cyclekeysonline.com/kawasaki-keys
I think so, assuming the pics are accurate. I also bought an integrated tail light from Fire Dragon Bros 11+ years ago but that was definitely aftermarket. The pics here actually look a bit worn/used even though the listing says “new.” Ordered, so we’ll see when they get here.

Kawasaki added plugs over the jagged break-away bolts under the triple top clamp and the pics show these plugs while copies just have Phillips screws. The other copies are missing the gasket around the fuel door’s cylinder even though the flip-up cover is still designed to seal against it.

I actually bought a replica fuel door for the F-bike and the keys were totally incompatible even though they were made to look similar. You could not simply re-pin the cylinder to accept the same key. The other J/K-bike replicas are the same way. You can see a shim where the gasket should be which lets them fit a smaller lock cylinder:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35321141975...mis&media=COPY

Just figured the OP is likely dealing with two keys since he says his ignition was replaced but, then again, replacements have the OEM connector so I really don’t know what’s going on there.

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 7th, 2022 at 08:54 AM.
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Old September 6th, 2022, 09:01 PM   #10
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Odd part is he chop off connector on harness side! Then re-joined it back again! Very strange...
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Old September 7th, 2022, 07:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Odd part is he chop off connector on harness side! Then re-joined it back again! Very strange...
I just checked and mine doesn’t have that little loop-back but, you’re right: That’s the harness side. Very weird. Maybe some weight saving track rider converted it back for street use.

Edit: Or it’s a totally different ignition cylinder and he got that mating connector from another bike’s harness. Seems the most likely. Still would’ve made more sense to salvage the connector off the old one and cut there.

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 7th, 2022 at 08:58 AM.
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Old September 20th, 2022, 07:36 PM   #12
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Anyone remember Jorge? Looks like he changed his YouTube channel name, but I just came across this “How to” wire harness repair video:
https://youtu.be/Py6yCNTaP3w

I don’t want to pick on him, but maybe the previous owner of the OP’s bike was following that “How to” where he used pliers on the crimp connectors instead of actually crimping the wires. Live and learn!
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Old September 20th, 2022, 07:51 PM   #13
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The key is actually the same across the bike, so it seems like PO went through the effort of replacing everything.

Ended up getting into an accident shortly after fixing it, and the other party's insurance ended up totaling the bike. When they ran the report, it actually came up as being flagged as stolen at some point. So maybe the remnants of fixing a hot wire job?

Who knows, not my problem anymore...
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Old September 20th, 2022, 08:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arvindb View Post
The key is actually the same across the bike, so it seems like PO went through the effort of replacing everything.

Ended up getting into an accident shortly after fixing it, and the other party's insurance ended up totaling the bike. When they ran the report, it actually came up as being flagged as stolen at some point. So maybe the remnants of fixing a hot wire job?

Who knows, not my problem anymore...
So sorry to hear about the accident. Even knowing that it mightíve been stolen at some point in the past still makes me wonder why the thief or whoever made it harder on themselves by cutting it there. Glad you are OK! You are OK, right?
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Old September 20th, 2022, 08:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arvindb View Post
The key is actually the same across the bike, so it seems like PO went through the effort of replacing everything.

Ended up getting into an accident shortly after fixing it, and the other party's insurance ended up totaling the bike. When they ran the report, it actually came up as being flagged as stolen at some point. So maybe the remnants of fixing a hot wire job?

Who knows, not my problem anymore...
Geez thatís a helluva story man. Sorry it got wrecked on you after the hard work. At least youíre okay right?
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Old September 20th, 2022, 09:17 PM   #16
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Yeah, I'm all good! Laid the bike down at an intersection after being hit from the side, pretty much just fairing damage but expensive to fix I guess. The timing sucked haha, got it running again and got whacked into the literally next morning on my way to class.

But the insurance payout was solid so worked out. Now time to find a new bike.
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Old September 22nd, 2022, 02:18 AM   #17
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Heck, it it was just fairing damage, I would've bought bike back from insurance co. for $150 gotten fairing-set off eBay. Unpainted also $150.

Glad to hear you're OK!!!
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