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Old July 14th, 2016, 08:04 PM   #1
spent_too_much
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94 refurbishment

I am continually searching Craig's List for deals. I came across this just a few days ago, and could not pass it up. As I have (gasp) 3 pre-gens now, I purchased this one with the intent to go thru it and sell it. I have so many spare parts, that I hope not to need to purchase much. I was told that "it ran when parked - 5 years ago". I have not done anything to it yet, but can tell that the front brake is frozen, the entire exhaust is heavily rusted, and the inside of the fuel tank is rusted. I have not even attempted to turn the motor over. Wish me luck!
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Old July 14th, 2016, 08:10 PM   #2
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Parts from this conglomeration, and this matched set of fairings most likely will be incorporated into the project.
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Old July 14th, 2016, 09:50 PM   #3
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Old July 15th, 2016, 07:47 PM   #4
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Drained the oil today, and turned the engine over by hand. It turns freely. I am in the process of swapping out the carbs, and my good fuel tank and battery, to see if it fires up and drives.

I know that I will need to replace all of this. Brake fluid too, but I need to buy some, fresh.
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Old July 16th, 2016, 09:28 PM   #5
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Oil / filter / screen cleaned and changed. Carbs, fuel tank, and battery swapped. Ignition - on. "dashboard" lights on. Nothing else . No headlight, turn signals, starter - nada. I checked the fuses - all good. I jumped the kickstand safety switch. I used a volt meter on the battery 12.6 ish volts. I visually inspected the wiring harness, wherever visible for being chewed through ( there was a nest in the tail ).

It is in neutral, and I will try to jump the clutch safety switch next time. But, why no horn, headlights, or turn signals?
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Old July 18th, 2016, 09:00 AM   #6
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I searched the "interwebs" and found ideas to isolate:

main ground to engine - check / clean / tighten
ignition switch ( I have a spare to swap out )
bad starter ( as power first goes to it, then to the est of the bike? )
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Old July 19th, 2016, 03:28 AM   #7
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It's alive - electrically speaking.

I replaced so many parts last night, but finally determined that the starter switch, on the right hand control was bad. I swapped it with a spare and the engine turns over. Horn, turn signals, brake light, headlights , dash - all working.

Now, to hook up the fuel tank and start it...
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Old July 19th, 2016, 03:29 AM   #8
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The list of things to address...
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Old July 19th, 2016, 09:53 AM   #9
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The list of things to address...
check out my post if you like, I just did / am working on a 250 from craigslist.
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Old July 22nd, 2016, 04:29 AM   #10
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I had it running for 5 straight minutes last night! I didn't have time to go for a test ride.

So far I have replace both handlebar controls, and the entire front brake set up ( caliper / cable / mount / lever ), and the oil & filter.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 05:50 AM   #11
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I went for a ride around the block yesterday - all works! Now, to clean, polish, and replace until it looks presentable.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 10:22 AM   #12
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Nice work! Cant wait to see it when it's done. I've always wanted to find an old bike and bring it back to life but I just don't have the patience for it.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 10:25 AM   #13
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Oil / filter / screen cleaned and changed. Carbs, fuel tank, and battery swapped. Ignition - on. "dashboard" lights on. Nothing else :( . No headlight, turn signals, starter - nada. I checked the fuses - all good. I jumped the kickstand safety switch. I used a volt meter on the battery 12.6 ish volts. I visually inspected the wiring harness, wherever visible for being chewed through ( there was a nest in the tail ).

It is in neutral, and I will try to jump the clutch safety switch next time. But, why no horn, headlights, or turn signals?
I know you got past this, but for future reference, the headlight is run through a relay activated by one of the stator wires. It won't come on until the engine starts turning.

Also, the sidestand switch has nothing to do with starting the bike, only running once it's been started. The starter circuit relay is wired directly to the clutch switch, which passes through to the neutral switch. If you unplug the clutch switch, the starter button will be completely dead, regardless of neutral or sidestand status. The igniter can ground via any of the three safety switches, so the sidstand switch only comes into play once the bike is in gear with the clutch released.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 12:35 PM   #14
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I know you got past this, but for future reference, the headlight is run through a relay activated by one of the stator wires. It won't come on until the engine starts turning.

Also, the sidestand switch has nothing to do with starting the bike, only running once it's been started. The starter circuit relay is wired directly to the clutch switch, which passes through to the neutral switch. If you unplug the clutch switch, the starter button will be completely dead, regardless of neutral or sidestand status. The igniter can ground via any of the three safety switches, so the sidstand switch only comes into play once the bike is in gear with the clutch released.
Thanks for the clarifications. I guess I had a few scenarios mixed up.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 12:37 PM   #15
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I drained the fuel tank today - yuck!
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Old July 27th, 2016, 07:07 PM   #16
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Cleaned and rebuilt the petcock. Used pipe cleaners, and dental brushes to clean all of the orifices. I found one rebuild kit that has all of the components - unlike the ninja 250 site that states 2 kits are needed.

For $30, I thought that I would try it.
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Old July 27th, 2016, 08:58 PM   #17
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I'm curious which kit you ordered? Was it for the Ninjette? Another model?
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Old July 28th, 2016, 06:55 AM   #18
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I'm curious which kit you ordered? Was it for the Ninjette? Another model?
As pictured, K&L 18-2702. I found it on eBay, listed specifically for the pre-gens. Everything seemed to be the correct parts. I won't know for sure until the bike is back together, and I test ride it.
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Old July 28th, 2016, 07:53 AM   #19
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As pictured, K&L 18-2702. I found it on eBay, listed specifically for the pre-gens. Everything seemed to be the correct parts. I won't know for sure until the bike is back together, and I test ride it.
Very cool to know they finally make one kit.
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Old July 28th, 2016, 07:58 AM   #20
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Very cool to know they finally make one kit.
I agree. How do we let the Ninja 250 FAQ folks know, to update their page?
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Old July 28th, 2016, 08:03 AM   #21
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I agree. How do we let the Ninja 250 FAQ folks know, to update their page?
I'll make the changes, I'm WIKI ADMIN for them, once you verify the kit is a complete kit, and no need for anything else.
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Old July 28th, 2016, 08:12 AM   #22
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Looks like K&L does agree with your findings
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Old July 28th, 2016, 08:26 AM   #23
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Edit made, look at the bottom of the article.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuild...tcock/fuel_tap
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Old August 1st, 2016, 07:45 AM   #24
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I poured 2 gallons of cider vinegar into the fuel tank yesterday. I'll let it steep for a couple of days to see if it touches the rust. I have the tanked turned on its side, as I have not yet plugged the petcock opening. I know that to fill the tank totally, is close to 5 US gallons.
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Old August 3rd, 2016, 05:48 AM   #25
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The cider vinegar is working. I couldn't hold the tank, position a light, and take a picture - but it is working. Now, to plug the petcock opening, and fill the tank.
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Old August 3rd, 2016, 10:55 PM   #26
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I personally use, and have muriatic acid. Available at Lowe's, or most hardware stores.

It makes quick work of rust inside any tank.

Below are pictures of my EX500 tank, before and after.

Another option is to take the tank to a radiator repair shop. They can clean it, check it for leaks, holes, etc... And repair them, some shops will also coat the tank.

I've had them done in the past for a total of about $75.00, not a bad deal for the services rendered IMHO.
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Old August 5th, 2016, 05:41 AM   #27
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When I was your age we put rocks and sand in there with some kind of juice and shook the tank like our life depended on it.

Sweet fix up
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Old August 6th, 2016, 06:30 AM   #28
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When I was your age we put rocks and sand in there with some kind of juice and shook the tank like our life depended on it.

Sweet fix up
Yes, but how to do get ALL of that out of the tank afterwards? Sand in the fuel can't be a good thing?

I might try adding metal nuts ( no bolts ) and the shake method, if the vinegar doesn't do a complete job. I can fish the nuts out with a magnet afterwards.
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Old August 6th, 2016, 06:43 AM   #29
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Yes, but how to do get ALL of that out of the tank afterwards? Sand in the fuel can't be a good thing?

I might try adding metal nuts ( no bolts ) and the shake method, if the vinegar doesn't do a complete job. I can fish the nuts out with a magnet afterwards.
Dump it out with whatever juice you choose to put in there, and wash it out. Nuts work good as anything it's just about getting something in there to knock the rust off and some liquid to help it move around and make the clean up easier folks use all sorts of madness from water, to diesel, kerosene, vinegar, an on and on... I'm not really a fan of using water but I have
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Old August 6th, 2016, 11:18 PM   #30
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the best method is this to convert rust into iron

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old August 7th, 2016, 11:41 PM   #31
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I drained the tank, and the vinegar worked wonders! I didn't even need to use any objects to knock off any rust. Unfortunately, after I rinsed the tank a few times with water, and looked for a container and fuel for a final rinse, it flash rusted. I read that it might do so, but in 10 minutes?

I'll have another overnight soak, and have my ducks lined up and see if I can prevent that from happening again.

Here are a few pics of what came out after a week long soak.
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Old August 7th, 2016, 11:43 PM   #32
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I also replaced the fluid in the front forks. I left the seals alone, as the forks had a good feel, and the seals looked OK.
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Old August 8th, 2016, 06:40 AM   #33
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A long term solution...consider coating using POR-15.

Effective stuff, affordable, 3 step chemical process.

A lot of effort, but worth it in the end. Tank issues become a distant memory. Used in both my Ducati and VFR (long term keepers)

I'm not familiar with Red-kote...I know some folks swear by that stuff too. I think member Ghostt can offer some input on it.
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Old August 8th, 2016, 06:35 PM   #34
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The swing arm - sandblasted, primed, painted, and greased...
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Old August 9th, 2016, 06:56 AM   #35
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the best method is this to convert rust into iron

Link to original page on YouTube.

Great totorial. Very informative! Seems simple enough.
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Old August 9th, 2016, 12:30 PM   #36
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That's cool!
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Old August 11th, 2016, 09:59 AM   #37
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When I cleaned the rust out of my gs500 tank I immediately rinsed it with 2 stroke gas after I dumped out the baking soda water mix (used to neutralize the acid). It worked well and prevented flash rust.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 06:30 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by jjmaine View Post
When I cleaned the rust out of my gs500 tank I immediately rinsed it with 2 stroke gas after I dumped out the baking soda water mix (used to neutralize the acid). It worked well and prevented flash rust.
Agreed. I need to IMMEDIATELY rinse it.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 06:46 PM   #39
Triple Jim
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Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
A long term solution...consider coating using POR-15
Not to discredit POR-15, since a lot of guys have had success with it over the years, but Caswell's Phenol Novolac epoxy liner is much more resistant to the junk in modern gasoline. It's used in commercial fuel and chemical storage tanks. Being a thick 2-part epoxy, it sticks well, leaves a thick layer, and hardens quickly without having to evaporate solvents.

The flash rust isn't a big deal. If it were mine, similar to that JJMaine said, I'd pour in some 50-50 oil gasoline mix, shake it around, and dump it out. To prevent it, you can rinse the tank with alcohol to get most of the water out, and then coat it with oil.

When I wash a V-8 engine block with soap and hot water before assembling the freshly machined block, in the few minutes it takes to dry, the cylinders get tan colored. But it's so thin and fine it doesn't hurt anything, and wipes off with an oily rag.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 06:45 AM   #40
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I replaced the rear brake pads last night. The seals, and action looked good. I just cleaned up the caliper, lubed the sliders, and installed new pads.
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