First lowside. What should I do next?

[Gandalf]

I went into a left turn in a residential street at about 20mph and my rear tire most likely hit a small patch of dirt 1/4 into the turn. The bike ended up sliding into a curb and onto the grass. I believe the curb caused most of the damage.

I was wearing a Shoei Qwest helmet, Dainese Airframe jacket, Held Evo Thrux gloves and SIDI Cobra boots. I was literally going to order leather pants when I got home. I came out with a quarter sized scrape on my knee and a few small holes in the sleeve of my jacket. That's it.

I had a police officer come by so I can make a police report. The questions I have though are should I just fix it myself? Should I file an insurance claim on it? Chances are it's totalled but I'm not entirely sure. If it's worth the hassle I could fix things myself if possible.

The left handlebar is bent along with the clutch lever. Side fairing cracked at the screw near the gas tank. The shift lever is bent. Turn signal is out but I think only the bulb and clear plastic part are the only broken pieces. There's a scrape behind the headlight under the mirror, the side is scraped up and a scrape near the rear seat. The bike won't start unless it's in neutral but I can't try it out since I have to straighten out my shifter first.

If I should just do all the work myself and not bother with insurance, what should I look for in terms of making sure everything is safe to ride it again?

[EternalNewb]

Welcome to the forum. Do you have any interest in a track/race bike?

[snot]

Do the work yourself. You learn a lot about the bike and its s lot cheaper. You can also put some good aftermarket parts on instead of OEM.
By the way Welcome!

[EternalNewb]

Oh, I know it's just a minor low-side, but I'd suggest sending your helmet to Shoei to have them check it out. They do complimentary inspections/reports on the safety of a helmet, and can tell you if it's still good to go, or if it needs to be replaced.

[Flying]

Shift lever - Bend back with heat and vise grip.
Turn Signal - Replace
Handle Bar - Bend back with a vise, heat and long pipe.
The price of the plastics will likely total your bike.

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by EternalNewb

Welcome to the forum. Do you have any interest in a track/race bike?

Thanks. I finally have a reason to post in addition to lurking in the maintenance threads. I've owned the bike for about a year and a half and I thought about going on the track sometime next year if could afford full leathers.

Originally Posted by snot

Do the work yourself. You learn a lot about the bike and its s lot cheaper. You can also put some good aftermarket parts on instead of OEM.
By the way Welcome!

Yeah I was thinking of just fixing the handlebar, replacing the clutch lever and straightening out the shift lever. I wouldn't bother with OEM parts or replacing the fairings because it's like $1000 just for them. Would letting insurance know outweigh the cons of higher payments for my policy?

Originally Posted by EternalNewb

Oh, I know it's just a minor low-side, but I'd suggest sending your helmet to Shoei to have them check it out. They do complimentary inspections/reports on the safety of a helmet, and can tell you if it's still good to go, or if it needs to be replaced.

Yeah I was definitely going to do that. There was only a slide abrasion on the side of my visor but I'm going to have them test the integrity of the shell just to be sure.

Originally Posted by Flying

Shift lever - Bend back with heat and vise grip.
Turn Signal - Replace
Handle Bar - Bend back with a vise, heat and long pipe.
The price of the plastics will likely total your bike.

That was my idea. Should I bother letting the insurance company check it out? It's probably totalled but I'm not sure if I should call them about it.

[RogerPapaMike]

plastics are expensive, but you might be able to find some good deals on ebay. From what i've seen, ebay has more left sided fairings and parts than right sided.

[ninjamunky85]

Crash your ninjette, take insurance payout,.. buy R6. That's the rules around here.

[snot]

Originally Posted by ninjamunky85

Crash your ninjette, take insurance payout,.. buy R6. That's the rules around here.

this is true.

I would not tell insurance.

[cuong-nutz]

Glad you're ok.

Bike can be fixed for free. Cost: your time, granted you have the tools.

front fairing popped out: your front fairing stay is tweaked inwards towards the frame.
Option 1: get big hammer and bang it outwards and then put fairings back on.
Option 2: get big long close end wrench that will slide over the fairing stay bar and muscle out outwards.
Option 3: who cares and leave it be.
If you have broken tabs, out some acetone or nail polish remover and melt the two pieces together. Don't use super glue.

Broken turn signal. Go find lens, glue it back together to seal it and screw it back on to the stalk. Replace bulb if necessary.

Bent handle bar: Hammer that thing straight or use a large pipe and bend it back. same thing for the clutch lever and foot shifter lever.

Continue riding.

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Glad you're ok.

Bike can be fixed for free. Cost: your time, granted you have the tools.

front fairing popped out: your front fairing stay is tweaked inwards towards the frame.
Option 1: get big hammer and bang it outwards and then put fairings back on.
Option 2: get big long close end wrench that will slide over the fairing stay bar and muscle out outwards.
Option 3: who cares and leave it be.
If you have broken tabs, out some acetone or nail polish remover and melt the two pieces together. Don't use super glue.

Broken turn signal. Go find lens, glue it back together to seal it and screw it back on to the stalk. Replace bulb if necessary.

Bent handle bar: Hammer that thing straight or use a large pipe and bend it back. same thing for the clutch lever and foot shifter lever.

Continue riding.

Excellent advice. Funny enough I put the turn signal parts into a bag and didn't even notice they weren't broken. The housing and the light bulb are undamaged. I just have to reconnect them to the wires! As for the handle bar, is there a link for the disassembly so I don't damage anything while using a pipe on it?

[cuong-nutz]

All you have to do is find a large (big enough for the handle bar to fit inside of it) and long (so you have enough leverage. The left switch housing is held together by 2 JIS screws. A regular phillips screwdriver should work too. You want to find where the bend starts in the bar and line up the pipe end at where the bend starts and bend it the opposite direction.

[Flying]

Ah yes, you discovered the invincible property of the 250's turn signals, they just don't die.

[NevadaWolf]

Turn signals slay fairings before they die. Little buggers go down swinging. LOL

[KawiKid860]

My left turn signal completely destroyed my 500s fairing lol, then subsequently was crashed on twice more and just gained a few more layers of duct tape every time. It was literally more duct tape than plastic, and it worked flawlessly.

I wouldn't tell insurance. I hate how so many basically mint bikes are scrapped because of some rash on the plastics. You can either fix the plastics, or just live with it and sell the bike later on. It's not like it's the only 250 out there with damaged plastics.

[Gandalf]

Alright I've got a little update. I went to the hardware store and the guys were nice enough to straighten out the shift lever for me. I'm working on removing/replacing the clutch lever and straightening out my bar but I'll probably do that tomorrow.

Should I take the grips off to prevent damage? I tried removed the screw at the end of the bar but it got scraped up and it's soft so it will be hard not to strip it. Also, I was reading the clutch lever removal guide on faq.ninja250.org and I'm not sure if my plunger was damaged or not. There's a plastic housing that is cracked but I don't see anything that the flat part of the lever would press down on as a trigger like the brake lever does.

My Ninja recently had an issue with it not starting in gear with the clutch in but I've read that there is some clutch safety that needs to be fixed. After I put the straightened shifter on I put it into neutral and it started up. I tested it in 1st and it rode with the clutch out so I'm not sure if the "plunger" that I can't see is busted or not.

Pictures related.

[NevadaWolf]

Originally Posted by Gandalf

I tried removed the screw at the end of the bar but it got scraped up and it's soft so it will be hard not to strip it.

You've got two things working against you removing that screw.

A - Red loctite. Need a lot of heat to melt it enough to break the screw loose. Either a lighter or heat gun or maybe a hair dryer will work but you have to really heat the end.

B - the screw is actually a JIS screw, not a Phillips. So while our tools will work, as you discovered, the metal is super soft and you just cut the thing apart. I stripped mine out but had numerous people tell me a JIS screwdriver would lock onto it and get it out with little effort.

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

You've got two things working against you removing that screw.

A - Red loctite. Need a lot of heat to melt it enough to break the screw loose. Either a lighter or heat gun or maybe a hair dryer will work but you have to really heat the end.

B - the screw is actually a JIS screw, not a Phillips. So while our tools will work, as you discovered, the metal is super soft and you just cut the thing apart. I stripped mine out but had numerous people tell me a JIS screwdriver would lock onto it and get it out with little effort.

JIS? Well that makes sense. I tried hammering a regular screwdriver in for a better grip since it's soft but I'll have to pick up a JIS one then. Think a little propane torching would be enough to heat it up without melting everything around it? I'll try a lighter first and hopefully that's good enough. I read a post in another thread about using compressed air to get the grip off. Sounds interesting but I'll try that out as well.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Gandalf

JIS? Well that makes sense. I tried hammering a regular screwdriver in for a better grip since it's soft but I'll have to pick up a JIS one then. Think a little propane torching would be enough to heat it up without melting everything around it? I'll try a lighter first and hopefully that's good enough. I read a post in another thread about using compressed air to get the grip off. Sounds interesting but I'll try that out as well.

A lighter is gunna be terribly hard compared to a torch.



And yea, compressed air will make quick work of removing the grip.

[NevadaWolf]

JIS is a Japanese standard so not sure if they are found at local hardware but I've never looked so I could be very wrong.

Lighter works, eventually (and if it is all ya got, go for it) but it will take awhile to work that thing loose.

[JohnnyBravo]

I hate wreck threads :/

Welcome

[sharky nrk]

Glad you ok and glad you were wearing your gear

[EsrTek]

1st trick down, now you're ready to master the hi-side :P


Sorry tryin humor to cheer ya up a bit..
Seriously though, glad your alright first of all.

For the bike..Ins will probably total it.
You can fix that to be safe to ride for under $500 (w/o plastic replacement), none of it will be hard.
I don't think your fairing stay is bent, just cause the cheap plastic popped out.
I made mine pop out leaning on it while washing bike!
Handlebar, I'd replace, be easier and safer.

use market area here for parts already on sale, or to request them.
I'll see if I have anything u need I can send ya free... I think though about all I got is a stock muffler&pipe.

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by EsrTek

1st trick down, now you're ready to master the hi-side :P


Sorry tryin humor to cheer ya up a bit..
Seriously though, glad your alright first of all.

For the bike..Ins will probably total it.
You can fix that to be safe to ride for under $500 (w/o plastic replacement), none of it will be hard.
I don't think your fairing stay is bent, just cause the cheap plastic popped out.
I made mine pop out leaning on it while washing bike!
Handlebar, I'd replace, be easier and safer.

use market area here for parts already on sale, or to request them.
I'll see if I have anything u need I can send ya free... I think though about all I got is a stock muffler&pipe.

I don't plan on replacing the fairings since they're overly expensive for whatever reason. I'll see if I can pop the fairing back in if I get the chance to remove it for a better look.

I also think I need to get a new clutch switch. For the past few weeks (before the lowside) I haven't been able to start my bike in 1st even with the clutch in unless it was in neutral. Pretty sure my plunger snapped off.

[Flying]

#2 and #3 Phillips are acceptable substitutes for fitting into the bar-end screws. The screws are soft enough that even a JIS driver will chew them up a little.

Heat the middle of the bar and work your way to the end for best results.

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by Gandalf

I don't plan on replacing the fairings since they're overly expensive for whatever reason. I'll see if I can pop the fairing back in if I get the chance to remove it for a better look.

I also think I need to get a new clutch switch. For the past few weeks (before the lowside) I haven't been able to start my bike in 1st even with the clutch in unless it was in neutral. Pretty sure my plunger snapped off.

You could always use some ABS cement, some sandpaper and some oem paint to fix the fairings, if you're willing to try it out.

[flitecontrol]

I removed two end weights with the red threadlocker using standard Phillips fittings and a hand impact driver http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html

Couple of licks and they were loose. Hand impact drivers are cheap and ought to be in everyone's tool kit that works on bikes. I've never buggered a screw head when using an impact driver.

[BoBO]

The damage is not bad, I low-sided myself a few months back due to oil & gravel being on the ground. It's the fairings that cost money. I saw a blue one like that @ Amazon used for $125 only. The levers are cheap and you can get adjustable ones @ Amazon as well. I would get woodcraft clip-ons though instead of buying OEM bars that might cost more.

[crimsondragon]

Originally Posted by flitecontrol

I removed two end weights with the red threadlocker using standard Phillips fittings and a hand impact driver http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html

Couple of licks and they were loose. Hand impact drivers are cheap and ought to be in everyone's tool kit that works on bikes. I've never buggered a screw head when using an impact driver.

This is the technique I used but with a Craftsman one and a MAPP torch. Two whacks loosened it enough to turn the rest out with the impact by hand. I also used the #3 bit.

[Gandalf]

I was out of town so I couldn't get much done over the weekend but I tried straightening the bar out a bit on Friday. I bought a blowtorch and after heating up the ends the screw came out pretty easily. The hardware store didn't have any JIS screwdrivers but a standard phillips worked fine with the heat. The grip came off with a little bit of WD40 through the straw.

I'm not sure how good this is for straightness standards but it might be bent a little too far to the front. I tried used the fairing clearance of the right bar as a guide. Think I should bend it a little back again? Also, since the clutch plunger is missing, does anyone know the part number or have a link to it? The thing cracked in the accident and the plastic melted a little bit.

[alex.s]

"lowsided, what should i do next?"

you could try a highside, i hear those are exciting.

[cbinker]

Honestly, if you don't high side, think about what YOU did, do not make excuses about something in the road. the bikes are capable of hitting rough spots at different lean angles and have no issues. prime example: i was at a track in the morning after a night rain, taking things easy, hit a patch of mud on the track in the apex of the corner, all that happened is both tires slid and regained traction as i continued on my lap. I maintained my position and let the bike do what it needed to do to correct itself.

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by cbinker

Honestly, if you don't high side, think about what YOU did, do not make excuses about something in the road. the bikes are capable of hitting rough spots at different lean angles and have no issues. prime example: i was at a track in the morning after a night rain, taking things easy, hit a patch of mud on the track in the apex of the corner, all that happened is both tires slid and regained traction as i continued on my lap. I maintained my position and let the bike do what it needed to do to correct itself.

Oh yeah I know that. I've had my tires slip on many occasions. I don't chop the throttle or brake and I ride it out. Seems like my luck just ran out. I wish I had my helmet cam on so I could review what happened exactly.

[JohnnyBravo]

High side

[Gandalf]

I'll take your highside suggestions into consideration.

A big thanks to user "HKr1" who was kind enough to send me a replacement clutch lever and perch. Getting the perch off seemed tricky but some WD40 and a couple light taps from a rubber mallet was all it needed to loosen up. The bar isn't 100% straight but it seems good enough.

Unfortunately my battery died after not riding for two weeks so I won't be able to make sure everything is working just yet. Hopefully I can get it started tonight. All I have to wait on now is the verdict from Shoei regarding my helmet.

What should I inspect before I consider everything as safe to ride? I know I have to make sure the bike rides straight but what else?

[HKr1]