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Old October 23rd, 2016, 09:09 PM   #1
Nextbesthing
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Hi all. So I picked up two pre-gens as a package deal. They set me back about 900 when you factor in gas, tolls, and renting the truck. They were owned by an msf instructor but were retired from the course. One was a 95 with 5000 miles the other was an 02 with 1200 miles. The 95 was no longer road legal due to some non existent turn signals/mirrors, speedo cable and bits of broken plastic held together by duct tape. It had developed a fairly significant ( in my eyes) oil leak, on top of this there was no coolant in the overflow reservoir which also alarms me. The 02 was bought from the original owner who hadn't had it running since 04/05, the new owner never got it running either chalking it up to "an electrical problem". Upon questioning him further he didn't seem to know anything about it, that's just what Mr. Previous owner said.
Anyway on to the future. I'm still up in the air with what I would like to do with them, I definitely want to get the 02 running but it's also going to take the most work. It looks good on the outside but it still has the original tires on it, the gas tank is rusty with holes rusted through on either side, the carburetor is full of rust, rodents have made a nest by the regulator rectifier, bearings squeak and grind as you push it around the garage, cables are going to need to be replaced. The 95 needs more help cosmetically so it is my track candidate but it has a clean title so it might become a street bike also, maybe a blue collar bobber kit? I'm hoping the only real problem here is the oil/coolant leak and I would like to replace the clutch plates since I'm sure they are a bit worn out. The engine I was assured "ran when parked" two years prior but didn't try it yet. Everything spins freely by hand though. Pulled the gas tank and carbs first thing but they are clean as a whistle. I haven't put them back in because I might put them on the 02 while I try to get it running. Getting them back to stock running condition is all I'm aiming for right now. Looking to get everything going for less than 1000. Batteries, tires, pads, plugs, sprockets, chains, fluids and filters will be a few hundred at least. Keeping my eyes out for a good parts bike candidate that has everything else I need.
Tips?
Tricks?
General pre-gen things I should be aware of. All input is welcome.
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 09:11 PM   #2
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My best guess is you will be able to get both of them going. Subbed for updates!

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Old October 24th, 2016, 06:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nextbesthing View Post
.....
Tips?
Tricks?
General pre-gen things I should be aware of. All input is welcome.
Both bikes have really low mileage, which means that all the moving parts of the engine are basically new, including the clutch discs.
Due to the age and time of inactivity, anything soft or liquid should be bad and due for replacement.

The pre-gen is a great design, there are no problems to be aware of.
I have a high mileage pre-gen that works everyday and flawlessly.
These machines can reach above 100K miles if you keep proper lubrication and maintenance work.

Follow the service and troubleshooting guides of these links:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto

Finding a PDF copy of the manual online is not difficult, but is going to be a great reference for torque values, gaps, etc.
Here, we have many threads that discuss "mystery" problems, which are a good guide as well.

The tank should be soldered by an expert, if it can be re-used.
Otherwise, you may find a replacement in e-bay for the track dedicated bike.
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Old October 31st, 2016, 06:08 PM   #4
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Guy is selling these for 500. Won't split them up and they don't have titles. Has all the fairing bits I need and the gas tank, cables, a set of new tires. 2 sets of carburetors, 2 low mileage running engines, 2 straight frames. Can sell some of the extra bits to recoup the cost. Deal or no deal?
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Old November 1st, 2016, 11:40 AM   #5
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I am doing the same as you - for the past year...

I am up to 4 frames with titles, and 2 without. I have found that buying an entire parts bike is often a better deal, then just purchasing the few parts that I need.

My advise is to completely tear down both MCs, and discard* every bad part. Take inventory. If the other 2 ( $500 package ) have the parts that you need, buy them. As you stated, you can sell off the extras.

The MSC bike most likely will need a new clutch - IMHO.

Tires - the rule of thumb is >2 years old, buy new, even if the tread is great. They dry rot and harden over time, which makes them slick.

* Hold on to the "bad" parts, as you will need something from them as soon as you dispose of them - trust me on this!
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Old November 1st, 2016, 12:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nextbesthing View Post
Guy is selling these for 500. Won't split them up and they don't have titles. Has all the fairing bits I need and the gas tank, cables, a set of new tires. 2 sets of carburetors, 2 low mileage running engines, 2 straight frames. Can sell some of the extra bits to recoup the cost. Deal or no deal?
Not a great deal IMO.

We bought a (poorly) running 1990 Ninja 250 that had been crashed but was still rideable for $150 with a Title. New tires and registration and it was on the road. There was a fender and tail, but both were scuffed-up. Front fairing was gone. No major mechanical or electrical issues. Still have it. Put about 3000 miles on it.





Some parts may be good on the ones you posted, but overall they look pretty rough.

Those are the kind of bikes that are perfect for someone that wants a trackday or race bike for cheap. You might be able to get what you need and sell the rest, but parting it out can be very time consuming. Look at just the value of what you need. If you can make money on what you dont - great - but don't plan on it.

I might go $250 on those, but that's about it.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 12:18 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by spent_too_much View Post
I am doing the same as you - for the past year...

I am up to 4 frames with titles, and 2 without. I have found that buying an entire parts bike is often a better deal, then just purchasing the few parts that I need.

My advise is to completely tear down both MCs, and discard* every bad part. Take inventory. If the other 2 ( $500 package ) have the parts that you need, buy them. As you stated, you can sell off the extras.

The MSC bike most likely will need a new clutch - IMHO.

Tires - the rule of thumb is >2 years old, buy new, even if the tread is great. They dry rot and harden over time, which makes them slick.

* Hold on to the "bad" parts, as you wiull need something from them as soon as you dispose of them - trust me on this!
So true. Never get rid of anything until you are completely done with your project!
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Old November 3rd, 2016, 04:43 PM   #8
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Thanks for the input, I don't know if I want to "bike" off more than I can chew... I've left my offer at 300. I'll check back in a few more days. I told him that's what I would pay for the one blue bike. At that price it's worth it IMO. I can work with what I have for now.
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Old November 20th, 2016, 08:56 PM   #9
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Not a great deal IMO.

We bought a (poorly) running 1990 Ninja 250 that had been crashed but was still rideable for $150 with a Title. New tires and registration and it was on the road. There was a fender and tail, but both were scuffed-up. Front fairing was gone. No major mechanical or electrical issues. Still have it. Put about 3000 miles on it.





Some parts may be good on the ones you posted, but overall they look pretty rough.

Those are the kind of bikes that are perfect for someone that wants a trackday or race bike for cheap. You might be able to get what you need and sell the rest, but parting it out can be very time consuming. Look at just the value of what you need. If you can make money on what you dont - great - but don't plan on it.

I might go $250 on those, but that's about it.
Is that yellow stripe factory?
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Old November 21st, 2016, 09:28 AM   #10
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Is that yellow stripe factory?
I believe the shape is original but it had been painted over in yellow by the PO.
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Old November 23rd, 2016, 09:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Thanks for the input, I don't know if I want to "bike" off more than I can chew... I've left my offer at 300. I'll check back in a few more days. I told him that's what I would pay for the one blue bike. At that price it's worth it IMO. I can work with what I have for now.
How are you making out? Did the seller accept your offer?
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Old November 29th, 2016, 01:08 PM   #12
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No I haven't contacted him in a while. Ad is still on Craigslist. I have been tinkering here and there with them but no major work has been done. Removed all the bits off the 95 I want to put on the 01. Gas tanks don't look as bad as I had feared. Petcocks will get dirty but I have a couple of inline fuel filters. Changed the oil and gaskets on both bikes and the oil leak stopped. Been lazy but I'm hoping to work on the bikes a little after work today.
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Old November 29th, 2016, 02:15 PM   #13
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If I read your original post correctly, the 95 has a title, and the 02 doesn't. Since you are taking from the 95 to add to the 02, does that mean you are going the track bike route?

If you go the other way, the 95 will be cheaper for sales tax. You can use the 02 harnesses and ignition / locks to "upgrade" the elctrical system ( 4 fuses to 7 ).

I'd try the CL seller again. If the 2 MCs are still available, and winter is around the corner, the added time might motivate him to accept your lower offer. I'd call and speak with him, as opposed to a text or e-mail. I'd go $350 for both.

Do you have pics of the parts piles? I'm curious to see what you started with.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 09:42 AM   #14
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Alright I'm bumping this because I'm sure someone on here can answer my simple question, I keep getting conflicting answers. Going from the air box to the carburetor are there supposed to be clamps securing them tightly or is it just a pressure seal after you get everything cinched up. My air box didn't seem to come with them but it looks like there is a spot where they should go. Second question my right exhaust has a hole punched in it but it is very stubborn to get off. Do you guys recommend cutting it or should i just keep tapping pulling and twisting. Thanks for any input.Shimming my cush drives right now. Waiting for my new tires to get here today. Hopefully riding this weekend if the rain lets up.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 10:00 AM   #15
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Alright I'm bumping this because I'm sure someone on here can answer my simple question, I keep getting conflicting answers. Going from the air box to the carburetor are there supposed to be clamps securing them tightly or is it just a pressure seal after you get everything cinched up. My air box didn't seem to come with them but it looks like there is a spot where they should go. Second question my right exhaust has a hole punched in it but it is very stubborn to get off. Do you guys recommend cutting it or should i just keep tapping pulling and twisting. Thanks for any input.Shimming my cush drives right now. Waiting for my new tires to get here today. Hopefully riding this weekend if the rain lets up.
There should be a circular spring or a screw clamp that secures the back of the carb to the rubber boot on the airbox.

You may need to post a photo to get a good answer on the second question, because I'm not following.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 10:09 AM   #16
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There should be a circular spring or a screw clamp that secures the back of the carb to the rubber boot on the airbox.

You may need to post a photo to get a good answer on the second question, because I'm not following.
just trying to remove the exhaust on the right side to replace it with the new one.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 10:31 AM   #17
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There should be a circular spring or a screw clamp that secures the back of the carb to the rubber boot on the airbox.

You may need to post a photo to get a good answer on the second question, because I'm not following.
Right in front of my face the whole time.
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Old April 16th, 2017, 11:51 AM   #18
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Put gas in today and started the 02 with some heavy coaxing. Fuel leaking from petcock and I don't seem to be getting a constant flow through my fuel filter. Along with some other odds and ends we should be riding soon.
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Old May 19th, 2017, 03:42 PM   #19
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2002 is running and riding but now that it rides the suspension seems non existent and will need replacing. 95 sacrificed some parts for this revival and is currently in my upstairs apartment. I'd prefer to not rob the suspension from the 95, trying to keep it mostly complete. Upgrades and suggestions are appreciated for suspension.
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Old May 19th, 2017, 07:14 PM   #20
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The wiki might be able to help you out with any suspension questions. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Suspension
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Old May 19th, 2017, 10:38 PM   #21
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IMHO, you can't go wrong with the front fork springs and rear shock from a new Gen / 300. They just drop in / bolt on. Around $75 total if you find the right deals.
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Old May 20th, 2017, 04:27 AM   #22
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Guy is selling these for 500. Won't split them up and they don't have titles. Has all the fairing bits I need and the gas tank, cables, a set of new tires. 2 sets of carburetors, 2 low mileage running engines, 2 straight frames. Can sell some of the extra bits to recoup the cost. Deal or no deal?
No brainer. The upper fairing piece is going for $522.00 new. If you like the little Ninja this is a gold mine of parts. Some parts are already not available as new - the cylinder head cover (Kawasaki) cam cover (me).

Deal!

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Old May 20th, 2017, 06:35 AM   #23
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The wiki might be able to help you out with any suspension questions. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Suspension
Yeah thanks found this immediately after I posted that. I got a newgen rear shock and race tech springs but I might go with just newgen forks as well rather than foxing with these.
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Old May 20th, 2017, 07:37 AM   #24
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Yeah thanks found this immediately after I posted that. I got a newgen rear shock and race tech springs but I might go with just newgen forks as well rather than foxing with these.
Newgen fork tubes are one millimeter larger than pregen tubes, 37mm vs. 36mm.
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Old May 21st, 2017, 08:02 PM   #25
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Newgen fork tubes are one millimeter larger than pregen tubes, 37mm vs. 36mm.

The tubes won't bolt in, but the springs will drop in.
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 03:36 PM   #26
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The tubes won't bolt in, but the springs will drop in.
Good, racetech won't cancel my order anyway. Put new purple wheels on yesterday with shinko brand tires. Has anyone had experience with these. They're pretty old but they seem good with no dry rot and they're almost brand new tread wise. The bike is super squirrely through turns not sure if it's tires or suspension, but I suspect it's both.
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Old May 23rd, 2017, 05:09 PM   #27
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Gas tank and wheels off the 95. Custom fender by yours truly.
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Old May 24th, 2017, 06:22 AM   #28
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If you decide to go with a matching fuel tank ( green ), I'll take your black one. That is what I need for my current fairing set up.
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Old May 24th, 2017, 10:18 AM   #29
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I have a bike with black fairings this one was on originally. Sorry. Green one I have has a rust problem.
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Old November 19th, 2017, 04:42 PM   #30
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I have a junkyard bike I picked up for a hundred bucks. No title and no front fairings. I got it for the carburetor, exhaust, gas tank, and brakes. Part it out? Save it for spares? It has an engine with 6k, good cooling system, straight frame, straight front forks. Seems a waste to let it sit, but there's not enough good plastic to make it a track bike. It's a 2005 so I can't title it in Vermont for a while. Anyone need anything? Suggestions?
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Old November 19th, 2017, 06:00 PM   #31
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I could use:

- swingarm
- front fender


Gotta check out what else I don't have in this pile...


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Old November 20th, 2017, 06:35 PM   #32
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I have a junkyard bike I picked up for a hundred bucks. No title. It's a 2005 so I can't title it in Vermont for a while. Suggestions?
I have a 94 frame, that you can title in VT. I'm in the Boston MA area. $100 and it's yours.
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Old November 21st, 2017, 07:56 AM   #33
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Spent_too_much has a solution. Also it looks like NY has a procedure that would get you going. It's not completely different from the way I did it in NC, since it starts with an affidavit that certifies that you're the legal owner.

https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/proo...-not-available
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Old November 22nd, 2017, 09:35 AM   #34
Nextbesthing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
I could use:

- rear wheel
- swingarm
- front fender
- any bodywork it has
- handlebars
- seat

Gotta check out what else I don't have in this pile...

Where do you live? I don't have fairings, I could use some of those. I do have a yellow tail section but it's not pretty. I could probably hook you up with everything other than the wheel, and the right handlebar. Actually I just had some friends help me lug it into my upstairs apartment so I could dismantle and clean it now that we got snow. I can post some pictures if you're interested.
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Old November 22nd, 2017, 09:43 AM   #35
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I'm in SF Bay Area.

Going to make this into track-bike, so no bodywork needed.
I'll put it together as much as I can this weekend and see what's missing.
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Old November 22nd, 2017, 09:49 AM   #36
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I have a 94 frame, that you can title in VT. I'm in the Boston MA area. $100 and it's yours.
Good workaround, but if I come home with another project my wife will put a hit out on me.
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Old November 22nd, 2017, 09:55 AM   #37
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Rock on
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Old May 29th, 2018, 03:29 PM   #38
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Bumping this because I have a question. Is there a method for creating a gas "IV" type deal, just a small bottle to run the engine rather than the gas tank. I was thinking about attaching a petcock to an appropriate bottle or something with some old inner tube as a gasket... I have seen similar things and was wondering if they work with a vacuum operated carb.
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Old May 29th, 2018, 04:57 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nextbesthing View Post
Bumping this because I have a question. Is there a method for creating a gas "IV" type deal, just a small bottle to run the engine rather than the gas tank. I was thinking about attaching a petcock to an appropriate bottle or something with some old inner tube as a gasket... I have seen similar things and was wondering if they work with a vacuum operated carb.
I've used an old lawn mower tank for testing, just plug the vacuum line.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 09:33 AM   #40
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Thanks. I might experiment a bit.
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