looking to upgrade my clutch springs, experience wanted!

[SchaffDogg]

The stock ones are too soft for me, I've tried looking/shopping around but I'm not really sure which springs are stiffer? i am looking a super hard engagement, as i ride extremely aggressively and usually drop the clutch at 6k+ and i feel like I'm burning up the clutch from slippage how can you tell if they are stiffer than stock when shopping around? i would appreciate any help here. thank you!

[Ghostt]

Barnett makes a nice set-up for the NewGen.

I know for the PreGen I recommend going with the Barnett ZX600 springs, I'm not sure what other Kawasaki models will fit a NewGen, but I know the Barnett replacement ones for the NewGen are a definite improvement.


@abhijitz is selling his Barnett set-up located in the for sale section

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=271145

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=271146

[subxero]

[Sunken]

Did a full Barnett clutch kit on mine.

Love it.

[SchaffDogg]

thanks for the input! sunken, i went to barnett's website and they sell all the pieces separately. 4 steel plates, 5 kevlar plates and 4 springs. is that how you ordered yours? and another question, my bike only has 9000 miles, and from what I've heard the stock clutch plates are very durable and last a very long time, can i just replace the springs for now and have the same, or almost the same benefit? thanks guys!

[Ghostt]

The friction and steels are pretty bulletproof on the bike, the weak link is the springs, even brand new they are weak due to the bike is entry level

[SchaffDogg]

thanks Ghostt, so just doing the springs will suffice. is barnett the best way to go?

[Ghostt]

Yes, personally I'd go with the Barnett springs

In my Ninjette and EX500 is use them, but I use the ones for a ZX600 MODEL which is recommended for the PreGen IMHO.

[SchaffDogg]

well i have a 2009 ex250j. should i use the recommended springs from barnett for my bike or something else? is there a way for me to know the size i need to shop for that work with other bikes?

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by SchaffDogg

thanks for the input! sunken, i went to barnett's website and they sell all the pieces separately. 4 steel plates, 5 kevlar plates and 4 springs. is that how you ordered yours? and another question, my bike only has 9000 miles, and from what I've heard the stock clutch plates are very durable and last a very long time, can i just replace the springs for now and have the same, or almost the same benefit? thanks guys!

I've been on totally stock clutch for 85,000 miles and I keep waiting for it to fail anytime but the thing keeps on ticking and still feels perfect with plenty of holeshot grip. Personally I'd just go springs myself as the plates have proven to be great.

[Ghostt]

Just get whatever Barnett sells for the NewGen, you'll be fine.

The only reason I went with the Barnett for the,: ZX600, is it's already been tested and proven for the EX500, and I've done this to my 91 EX, and a must do upgrade IMHO, along with other over at EX-500.com

http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...gs_Replacement

knowing that the EX and PreGen uses the same springs, I just went with what I know worked.


SIDENOTE: @rojoracing53 have you checked your springs lately? I'm really surprised that it's not a must do upgrade to change them out with a better/heavier springs like the Barnett springs, knowing how weak they are from the factory?

Then again I'm not familiar with NewGen, as much as I am with PreGen, which are weak ass from the factory.

What I do know is that NewGen springs only fit the NewGen, unlike the PreGen, which Kawasaki used in other models according to part # fitment.

For the PreGen the friction and steels are pretty much bulletproof, as Kawasaki does use them in the bigger bikes, like the ZX1000, etc... The weak link is the springs for the PreGen.

Maybe Kawasaki corrected this with the NewGen, as it seems the parts are only used in the NewGen.

[Ghostt]

Here's an interesting thread by @APEmike

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=242549

According to @APEmike he says that PreGen and NewGen use the same spring

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...18&postcount=5

But I have no way to confirm or deny his findings.

[Ghostt]

Link to original page on YouTube.

A good example of wet clutch, and how oil effects it

Link to original page on YouTube.

More friction and steel plates = more power handling capabilities of a clutch. It all comes down to total surface area, the springs themselves apply the clamping force to the clutch pack.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[rojoracing53]

Nope I haven't even checked them even once. Like I said there's plenty of bite when I need to launch and the extra stress from towing the Mtb and gear seem to have done it zero harm to far but then my motor is still putting out stock HP. Even though I use my equipment hard I've always had a rather unique way with prolonging my clutch life. Back when we were racing the R1s in AMA the other Yamaha riders would burn through a clutch in a few weekends but we went two years before it finally started slipping during a race. I've experienced 5 burnt clutches in my life so I'm well versed in the exact feeling.

[Sunken]

Originally Posted by SchaffDogg

thanks for the input! sunken, i went to barnett's website and they sell all the pieces separately. 4 steel plates, 5 kevlar plates and 4 springs. is that how you ordered yours? and another question, my bike only has 9000 miles, and from what I've heard the stock clutch plates are very durable and last a very long time, can i just replace the springs for now and have the same, or almost the same benefit? thanks guys!

I got mine through a kit on ebay Canada. If your clutch is not slipping, don't change it, it is suppose to be almost bulletproof if you know how to drive. My clutch was burned when I got the bike idk why. Like others have said, you cannot go wrong with the Springs and should take you 10-15 minutes to do. Since you need to drain the oil, you can always time it with an oil change if you are almost due for it. Also, while you have the clutch in your hands, you can always inspect it for peace of mind.

[Ghostt]

@Sunken I know fro PreGen there's no need to drain the oil, if you put the bike on the sidestand/kickstand. The angle is enough to keep the oil on the left side of the engine, and away from the clutch cover when it's removed. I'm pretty sure the NewGen will experience the same effect.

No need to drain the oil.

[Sunken]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

@Sunken I know fro PreGen there's no need to drain the oil, if you put the bike on the sidestand/kickstand. The angle is enough to keep the oil on the left side of the engine, and away from the clutch cover when it's removed. I'm pretty sure the NewGen will experience the same effect.

No need to drain the oil.

Id love to give my experience on this but, I've drained it straight out haha. One thing though, you might want to get a gasket in case you break yours doing it. Sucks to have the bike apart for 2 days cause of that. I guess I could of use a gasket maker but mah..

[Ghostt]

Good point about the gasket, I have a few spares hanging around just in case.

[SchaffDogg]

Thanks for all of your input guys! I'm about to pull the trigger on the Barnett Springs but there is no description on the website, like at all. Im kind of wondering how much stiffer they really are? Or if there are any other brands that may be comparable with more info about them? Thanks guys! Sorry I'm a total nitpicker about my bike

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by SchaffDogg

Thanks for all of your input guys! I'm about to pull the trigger on the Barnett Springs but there is no description on the website, like at all. Im kind of wondering how much stiffer they really are? Or if there are any other brands that may be comparable with more info about them? Thanks guys! Sorry I'm a total nitpicker about my bike

It's noticeable stiffer, but not ridiculously. If you find the OEM ones stiff/difficult, weak hands, then your not gonna like them, but if you don't find the OEM ones difficult, or too easy, then your fine.

You'll notice the difference, but after awhile you'll get use to them, and won't even notice them.

There no more stiffer than let's say a bigger bore bike.

Personally you'll be okay, no worries.

Now pull that trigger! You won't be sorry you did, especially once you compare the OEM Vs Barnett springs.

Or buy from Amazon, make sure it's a PRIME item, worse case, try them, don't like them return them.

[SchaffDogg]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

It's noticeable stiffer, but not ridiculously. If you find the OEM ones stiff/difficult, weak hands, then your not gonna like them, but if you don't find the OEM ones difficult, or too easy, then or fine.

You'll notice the difference, but after awhile you'll get use to them, and won't even notice them.

There no more stiffer than let's say a bigger bore bike.

Personally you'll be okay, no worries.

Now pull that trigger! You won't be sorry you did, especially once you compare the OEM Vs Barnett springs.

Or buy from Amazon, make sure it's a PRIME item, worse case, try them, don't like them return them.

Thanks for the reply man, as long as they are stiffer that's what I'm looking for, i ride by bike pretty much Wot at all times sometimes for hours on end in the mountains and the clutch is always slipping, especially in the higher. gears after being hard on it up and downshifting at high rpms for long periods of time. I really appreciate all of your help ghostt!

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by SchaffDogg

Thanks for the reply man, as long as they are stiffer that's what I'm looking for, i ride by bike pretty much Wot at all times sometimes for hours on end in the mountains and the clutch is always slipping, especially in the higher. gears after being hard on it up and downshifting at high rpms for long periods of time. I really appreciate all of your help ghostt!

Glad to help a member spend their money

I personally would put the Barnett springs in the category of preventive maintenance, because the OEM ones are weak, like the OEM suspension. I would put those in the same category as a must do items to enjoy the bike even more.

[APEmike]

Ive had the cover off my 300, no need to drain the oil, it sits well above the resting oil level. Second for the tip about a spare gasket, its been on there, torqued for how long now? Chances are its bit stuck to the case and the cover.

[APEmike]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Here's an interesting thread by @APEmike

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=242549

According to @APEmike he says that PreGen and NewGen use the same spring

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...18&postcount=5

But I have no way to confirm or deny his findings.

Thanks for the plug!

I would love for someone to verify my findings.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by APEmike

Thanks for the plug!

I would love for someone to verify my findings.

Barnett lists two different part numbers for pre and post gen.

Post gen = 501-50-04050
Pre gen = 501-50-04055

So, it looks like they do not use the same springs from Barnett.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Barnett lists two different part numbers for pre and post gen.

Post gen = 501-50-04050
Pre gen = 501-50-04055

So, it looks like they do not use the same springs from Barnett.

As does Kawasaki,

PreGen = 92081-139 SPRING,CLUTCH
NewGen = 92145-0531 SPRING

Would love to know as well.

[APEmike]

Barnette part # broken down

501 = clutch spring

-50 = spring style (wire size and diameter)

-040 = how many in a package.

50 = length.