Newbie Questions: Please Answer

[tlhamon]

OK, finally got warm enough to take my bike out for the first ride.

Realize, the bike is BRAND NEW. It had 2 miles on it.
Also realize my former bikes were a Buell XB9S and an HD Sportster 1200, so much, much larger.

It took FOREVER to warm up. At least 20 minutes before I could rev it without stalling. Been a long time since I had something with a new carb, normal?

The first 3 gears seem to be pointless. That is they rev out before you get to 10mph. Normal?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, I knew I was buying a smaller bike, I'm just curious if this is what everyone experiences.

Now, having said all of that, I love that I can actually walk the bike around and not feel like its going to crush me. AND it is by far the coolest looking bike I have owned.

[Buffalony]

Originally Posted by tlhamon

OK, finally got warm enough to take my bike out for the first ride.

Realize, the bike is BRAND NEW. It had 2 miles on it.
Also realize my former bikes were a Buell XB9S and an HD Sportster 1200, so much, much larger.

It took FOREVER to warm up. At least 20 minutes before I could rev it without stalling. Been a long time since I had something with a new carb, normal?

The first 3 gears seem to be pointless. That is they rev out before you get to 10mph. Normal?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, I knew I was buying a smaller bike, I'm just curious if this is what everyone experiences.

Now, having said all of that, I love that I can actually walk the bike around and not feel like its going to crush me. AND it is by far the coolest looking bike I have owned.

It depends. I mean yeah your fuel ratio could be off from the start but I'd wait till it gets even warmer to see if it still is a prob. Mine takes about 3-8 min in cold temps to be ready for the throttle.

It doesnt go fast in first. second isnt used by me much. third starts to get pretty fun after break-in with-in higher revs.

It is really nice to not worry so much about the weight of the bike. It's easy to catch if you start to feel her going down. I caught it standing still at about 45 degrees once in a parking lot. I wasn't focusing.

Following break in to the t is up to u. After that don't bog the motor down too much though. You'll notice pretty soon that this bike hates to be loved and loves to be hated. HP's in the uppers. Have fun on your new nimble sexy machine. And Welcome

[tlhamon]

Didn't I see some discussion on the break-in period here? I can't find the thread. Can anyone point it out for me?

[Buffalony]

Yeah theres hundreds of em. It's up to you in the end. Do you plan on having the bike along time?... then take it easy the first 600 miles. Do you want to get the most performance?....then drive it like it's already broken in. It's what they narrow down to.

[OldGuy]

Originally Posted by tlhamon

Didn't I see some discussion on the break-in period here? I can't find the thread. Can anyone point it out for me?

The "search function" with "engine break in" will bring up several threads and inside of those, you will find this link http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ighlight=break

I wouldn't totally agree with Buffalony on his "Do you plan on having the bike along time?... then take it easy the first 600 miles. Do you want to get the most performance?....then drive it like it's already broken in." comment.

Just about every site and every thread basically says the first 100 miles and first few rides are the key. Vary the RPM, use engine braking to flush the cylinder walls down, don't keep a constant throttle for long periods (e.g.; no 100 mile road trips on the interstate yet) and don't try out the red line yet.

Some say to change the oil and filter at 50-100 miles to get rid of any metallic particles that may be there from the initial break in/mfg process. There are several threads on oil changes that will give you what most consider to be the better oils and filters.

On the first three gears reving out before you get to 10 mph can you give us more details. What RPM are you at when you think you are rev'd out?

[Viper-Byte]

These bikes do run lean from the factory. I suggest you see the DIY on how to shim the needles, this will give more fuel, allow the bike to warm up faster.

With the gearing, I can do the maximum legal speed in this country in 3rd (100kph) But first is a little short. you can always change the gearing if you feel so strongly.

[Sound Wave]

Originally Posted by tlhamon

The first 3 gears seem to be pointless. That is they rev out before you get to 10mph. Normal?

well during the break-in period, if you take it really easy and try to keep in around 4000-5000 rpms, then yeah it is going to feel like you have to shift really early.

i am just about to hit 1,000 miles, so lately i have been opening it up slightly more and more. i didn't follow the break-in strictly under 4000 rpms, but i did try to take it easy and not go "more than i needed to". 16 more miles and no more holding back.

it actually is a really fun bike to ride. if you hold each gear until about at least 9,000 rpms, it accelerates pretty well.

edit: +1 on the shimming. you should get better low end response and the bike should warm up faster.

[kkim]

Thomas,

How cold is it there? The colder the temp, the denser the air, the leaner the mixture. It will take longer than when ambient warm for the engine to come up to normal operating temps and the choke will have to stay on longer to get there. Shimming will help the engine run a bit richer at idle, warming up the bike quicker.

I felt the same about the lower gears when I first started riding the bike. I still think the bike is geared a bit low, but it seems fine in the higher gears, well matched to the engine's power output.

If it bothers you, you can gear it up a tooth in the CS sprocket.

[Purspeed]

Originally Posted by Buffalony

Yeah theres hundreds of em. It's up to you in the end. Do you plan on having the bike along time?... then take it easy the first 600 miles. Do you want to get the most performance?....then drive it like it's already broken in. It's what they narrow down to.

Ride it hard for 30 miles (rev it nice and high). Change the oil, clean the oil screen.

Ride it hard for 500 miles. Change the oil, clean the oil screen.

Use only NON-synthetic oil for the first 5000 miles.

First 30 miles is critical to proper break-in.

[tlhamon]

I found an article that said to ride it "hard" for about 20 miles to seat the rings then change the oil, so I think I will follow that then go a bit easier on it.
It is a totally different animal than my former bikes and I'm not used to hearing it wind out so fast. I never tached above 5000 yesterday, so I realize it has a way to go before it tops out. From what you guys have said, everything sounds normal so far. Warmer weather today, so maybe it won't be so cold-blooded.
I love that the bike is so light and has such a small turning radius. No more 12 point turns for me!!!

[Buffalony]

I was just saying thats roughly what they come down to. I didn't want to get into What I think is the proper break in procedure. That would just be a can of worms.

I Think metal flakes in the oil arent completely a bad thing when the bike is fresh out of the crate. Something to do with getting embedded into the cylinder walls. For me I'd say oil change at 300 600 1000 then switch to synth at 1500

[OldGuy]

Originally Posted by Buffalony

I Think metal flakes in the oil arent completely a bad thing when the bike is fresh out of the crate. Something to do with getting embedded into the cylinder walls. For me I'd say oil change at 300 600 1000 then switch to synth at 1500

Joe - please help me understand why you think this is so and what's your basis. Just curious.

[NICUNinja]

The first time I started my bike it was 8 celsius out. I had to keep the choke on for quite a while and every time I tried to turn it down the bike started to die. The bike was warmed up for about 20 minutes and I still couldn't turn the choke all the way down. My husband actually had to take it out for me the first time because I was afraid that it was going to die on the highway on me. Today it was 17 celsius, no problem once it warmed up. Good luck.

[Alex]

Hi Trista!

There's really no need to make sure that the choke is all the way off before you start riding. The bike warms up much quicker when the engine is under a little bit of load anyway. Once the engine's running, feel free to start riding down the road (not at redline), and you can take the choke down gradually, but likely all the way off within a minute or two at most, even in cold weather.

[NICUNinja]

Good to know, thanks.

[Buffalony]

Originally Posted by OldGuy

Joe - please help me understand why you think this is so and what's your basis. Just curious.

It's completly normal.
Noobs shouldnt freak out at the sight of metal in their oil.

You don't want too much to get embedded into the cylinder walls(Cylinder glazing).
Cylinder glazing is more likely to happen when the motor is still fresh. Cylinders are finished with a crosshatch/scrape pattern which acts like a file to allow the rings to wear the also help to retain some oil. The rings quickly use up this surface well under the first 100 miles of a new bore.
Cylinder wall glazing is more likely to happen during this "fresh period" if driven too lightly. So maybe a oil change at 100 would be something you'd want to do!

On another note deceleration is often overlooked during break in. The engine vacuum created during deceleration sucks oil and metal from wear off the cylinder walls to keep the rings from wearing prematurely. Deceleration can be a major contributor in the prevention of cylinder wall glazing.

Seizure is a possibility if driven too hard. It's ok to drive above the rpm suggested for break-in but prolonged operation and at hi-temps should be avoided.

Use of synthetic too early in an engines life is an obvious no no.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Buffalony

Noobs shouldnt freak out at the sight of metal in their oil.

sorry, this noob does. Metal bits in your oil is not good. The best thing to do is minimize the time those bits are floating around in there by flushing them out by changing your oil frequently during the break in period of your engine. The oil filter is supposed to filter all those bits out.

Also, you don't want any of that embedded in your cylinder walls.... that will cause scoring of the lining.

While I did not break in my engine strictly to this procedure, he brings up a lot of good points in the break in method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[tlhamon]

Well, I got it out again yesterday and did about 8 miles of quick ups and engine breaking. I have a super strong neodymium magnet on the filter cover to grab any metal that makes its way down there and I intend to change to oil when I get to 20 miles or so.

[HKr1]

Doesnt a lean motor run hotter, than a rich one

[kkim]

Originally Posted by HKr1

Doesnt a lean motor run hotter, than a rich one

which comment is this directed at?

[Purspeed]

Originally Posted by kkim

sorry, this noob does. Metal bits in your oil is not good. The best thing to do is minimize the time those bits are floating around in there by flushing them out by changing your oil frequently during the break in period of your engine. The oil filter is supposed to filter all those bits out.

Also, you don't want any of that embedded in your cylinder walls.... that will cause scoring of the lining.

While I did not break in my engine strictly to this procedure, he brings up a lot of good points in the break in method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

+1

Metal in oil is bad. But, a cool head will help a rider/mechanic diagnose the condition.

On a fresh engine, metal in the oil/oil screen is very typical, but it is not good. It should be removed (via oil change/new oil filter/cleaning of the oil screen) and then the bike should be ridden and given a fresh oil change again.

This process will give you some insight as to what's going on in your engine.

[sherbear]

I never had issues with mine during break in.

[Verus Cidere]

Really quick question from an owner of an earlier generation ninjette: Is it normal for the choke on the ninjettes to screw with you? Mine changes where it needs to be to keep a specific RPM. I've been told (again, correct me if I'm wrong on this since I have been about several other things recently) that when you choke it, it should hold at about the engine speed of idle (which, according to the research I've done on the 2nd gen ninjettes ['88 - '07] is between 1300 and 1800 RPM). Generally if it's even slightly cold (never gets very cold around here) it'll hold there on full choke for about 10 seconds. It then jumps to around 3000 RPM. I then have to play around with the choke to find the right place to keep it at what I've been told is the proper RPM for warm-up. I have a friend who's ridden bikes for over 40 years that was confused by this. He rides touring bikes though, so there's probably a difference. His bikes all had engines 5 times the size of mine or more, and I've heard the smaller the engine, the more cold blooded. A little help on this issue?

Also, I tend to hear a slight, high-pitched, grinding/whining sound around 6k RPM while riding. I'm a major noob to both biking and mechanics. Is that bad? What can I do to fix it if anything?

[Sound Wave]

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

Also, I tend to hear a slight, high-pitched, grinding/whining sound around 6k RPM while riding. I'm a major noob to both biking and mechanics. Is that bad? What can I do to fix it if anything?

you're not talking about this right?

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Verus Cidere]

No, it sounds almost like something's grinding in my transmission. It only happens around 6k RPM but it doesn't seem to matter which gear I'm in. Don't get me wrong, it's not like when someone tries to start their car and it's allready going (A sound I HATE to hear). It's not very loud or obvious. It's just starting to worry me. Like I said, I'm a major noob to this and I don't want to destroy my engine by not knowing what's going on for too long.

[kkim]

when's the last time the oil has been changed, if ever? you might want to start there if it's been awhile.

[Verus Cidere]

Yeah, I'll probably do that. Now that I think of it it's been far too long. I think the last one was at around 2500 miles when I got her tuned up. I'm at almost 5k miles! Changing the oil tomorrow if I get the chance!!

[kkim]

I'm not saying that it will fix your problem, but it's a start. See if it makes any difference in the sound.

Follow the oil change DIY and be sure to accurately fill the oil level in the sight glass.

[Buffalony]

Originally Posted by kkim

sorry, this noob does. Metal bits in your oil is not good. The best thing to do is minimize the time those bits are floating around in there by flushing them out by changing your oil frequently during the break in period of your engine. The oil filter is supposed to filter all those bits out.

Also, you don't want any of that embedded in your cylinder walls.... that will cause scoring of the lining.

I meant fine metal. Larger pieces of metal would probably mean a problem with filtration

There are ALOT of break in procedures on the net. I said I didnt want to open a can of worms here.

oil changes every 100 miles would be complete overkill

[Angel-be-Good]

Top speed in the gears is, roughly...

1. 30 mph
2. 45 mph
3. 60 mph
4. 75 mph
5. 90 mph
6. 105 mph

Get used to the sound of redline, at least once you're comfortably broken-in. It's part of what makes the bike so fun.

[tlhamon]

That's funny you mentioned the gas tank hiss. I topped mine off last week and when I got it out in the sun today it was wheezing. My bike is horribly cold blooded still and I have to wait at least 10 minutes before I can ride it. As for noises, I'm not used to the high wind so I'm hearing a lot of stuff I'm not familiar with. Like a new house that creaks at night. Scary, but normal.