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Old May 21st, 2014, 05:13 PM   #1
ebrammer252
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Sealing Crankcases?

I'm in the process of rebuilding my old ninja 250

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261713

The manual calls for "Sealant: Liquid Gasket TB1216B: 92104-1064" which is ridiculously expensive.

Originally I planned to use Permatex ultra black, but some research shows that's not a great idea. I see people swearing by ThreeBond 1194 and ThreeBond 1121. Has anyone here had experience with either of these products? OR any other recommendations for sealing them up?
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Old May 21st, 2014, 05:23 PM   #2
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I use the gray stuff called Honda bond. But before I put it on I clean the case half a with break clean. And I use a scotch bright to rub them down. As I put the Honda bond on I rub it around some to make sure there are no oily spots. And only leave a thin film of sealant. You don't want any squeezing inside the case. Let it set up for a little while to form a skin. Then put the two halves together.
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Old May 21st, 2014, 05:25 PM   #3
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which one is the thin one? kawibond or hondabond? hondabond was nice and thick and goopy right?
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Old May 21st, 2014, 05:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
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I use the gray stuff called Honda bond. But before I put it on I clean the case half a with break clean. And I use a scotch bright to rub them down. As I put the Honda bond on I rum it around some to make sure there are no oily spots. And only leave a thin film of sealant. You don't want any squeezing inside the case. Let it set up for a little while to form a skin. Then put the two halves together.
I've already scrapped the mating surfaces with a razor, then cleaned them with brake cleaner. Cleaned them with a tooth brush and dish soap, then cleaned them with a scotch brite pad and cleaned them with dish soap again. Before I seal it I will be wiping down the mating surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner again. From what I understand the Three Bond 1194 is the same thing as Honda Bond? Apparently Three Bond makes YamaBond, HondaBond, Suzuki Bond etc.

Just to make sure I'm on the right page here. This stuff?
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Old May 21st, 2014, 05:56 PM   #5
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You got it. Clean clean clean. And yes to the three bond is the stuff. Just don't use to much.
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Old May 21st, 2014, 11:31 PM   #6
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Yamabond is also excellent.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:53 AM   #7
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Yamabond is also excellent.


Fuel resistant, too.

I never use RTV.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:58 AM   #8
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hondabond was nice and thick and goopy right?
Yes.

Edit: I used some today, it's not all that thick and goopy. But it was hot today...

Last futzed with by Desmoluci; May 22nd, 2014 at 05:46 PM.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 09:52 AM   #9
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Here's a tip that is especially good for the clutch-side cover. Put a more permanent gasket sealer on the side of the gasket toward the crankcase, and use an RTV on the side toward the cover. When it is time to change the clutch, the RTV will allow the cover to pop off cleanly and the gasket will not be destroyed. The gasket has basically been glued to the crankcase. To reseal, just rub and peel off the RTV and apply some fresh.
I have used this technique for 35 years, it is great for any cover you may want to remove cleanly later.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 11:20 AM   #10
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Why has no-one mentioned....

...After applying the sealant, mating the surfaces, and snugging all bolts with minimal pressure -- wait 15 minutes before finally torquing the bolts to spec. This allows the gasket maker material to further set up and slightly harden before being torqued down to spec, ensuring that less of the gasket maker is squeezed out of the crack and lost.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 11:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by corksil View Post
Why has no-one mentioned....

...After applying the sealant, mating the surfaces, and snugging all bolts with minimal pressure -- wait 15 minutes before finally torquing the bolts to spec. This allows the gasket maker material to further set up and slightly harden before being torqued down to spec, ensuring that less of the gasket maker is squeezed out of the crack and lost.
Thanks for that tidbit, I appreciate it.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 12:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corksil View Post
Why has no-one mentioned....

...After applying the sealant, mating the surfaces, and snugging all bolts with minimal pressure -- wait 15 minutes before finally torquing the bolts to spec. This allows the gasket maker material to further set up and slightly harden before being torqued down to spec, ensuring that less of the gasket maker is squeezed out of the crack and lost.
racer X did mention that. in the first reply.
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