Someone stealing my gasoline from my bike! Video included

[Jammerkiller]

Hi Cadd,

Not sure if I can help you, but I'll try. According to what you say, your last oil change was only about 200 miles worth of riding and the oil was really black. (is that right?) And you mentioned how it didn't smell too much like gas. Actually, It shouldn't smell like gas at all. If it does, then we all know what's happening to some of your gas and what the unusual cause of your poor mileage is. Somehow, gasoline is ending up past the carbs, past the pistons and into your oil. Someone else mentioned the petcock, and whether it is functioning properly. In other words, when the engine is off, the diaphragm in the petcock should shut off the flow of gas to the carbs. If the diaphragm is bad, then gas can excessively leak into the carbs, past the float needles and "flood" the carbs and let gas leak into the cylinders, and leak past the piston rings into your oil. Which leads me to ask if you have done a compression test lately to see if your rings are bad. Also, if you suspect a weak spark and not getting a good burn from your plugs to ignite the air/fuel mixture, maybe check the coil grounds. Your bike is not that old, however I have had to clean the contact points of the ignition coils (on mid 2000's ninjas) where they bolt to the frame. This is a chassis ground for the coils. There may be some corrosion behind those bolts that is hindering a good spark form the plugs. Of course this may not be the answer to your poor mileage.

If your compression is good, and the petcock diaphragm is functioning properly. Then an excessive amount of gasoline is being consumed by the engine, maybe through the main jets. Did you say that your carb jets are stock? No aftermarket jet kits are installed in your carbs? Your situation, and your mileage, is very confusing.

Forgive me for not keeping up completely with this post and all the things you have tried. I do have one more thing... If your bike has California emissions on it, pull off one of the vacuum lines going to the black, rectangular box that stores gas tank fumes, and smell it to see if it is strong with gasoline odor. Also, maybe remove the box and turn upside-down to see if gas comes out. If it reeks of gasoline, or gas pours out of it, then we found the problem! One of the vacuum lines from the tank is letting the emissions suck gasoline into that black box! yikes!

Sorry, to be so long-winded on the subject. I truly would like to knew just what the hell is wrong with your bike. As I'm sure everyone would like to know.

PM me if you need to....

Mike.

[SON1C]

Originally Posted by cadd

Thx for the mpg graph Sonic. What is your normal cruising rpm on 45-50mph roads? Are you in 6th gear?

I just got 41mpg last night. But I modified my riding. I've been taking longer (20 mile) rides and I shift around 6-7k rpm. I started cruising at 5k rpm. In the past, I'd cruise around 7k rpm.

for all the 30-40 mpg rpm is 10-12k with your styile driving it would probably net 48 49 on that bike for me

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Not sure if I can help you, but I'll try. According to what you say, your last oil change was only about 200 miles worth of riding and the oil was really black. (is that right?)

Correct.

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Someone else mentioned the petcock, and whether it is functioning properly.

When I first purchased the bike Jan 2014, the petcock was dripping. I took it apart and cleaned it. It's functioning perfectly now. Left the tank off the bike for 24 hours. Not a drip anywhere.

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Which leads me to ask if you have done a compression test lately to see if your rings are bad.

No. Can this be done at home? Or is it a service a shop provides?

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Also, if you suspect a weak spark and not getting a good burn from your plugs to ignite the air/fuel mixture, maybe check the coil grounds. Your bike is not that old, however I have had to clean the contact points of the ignition coils (on mid 2000's ninjas) where they bolt to the frame. This is a chassis ground for the coils. There may be some corrosion behind those bolts that is hindering a good spark form the plugs. Of course this may not be the answer to your poor mileage.

I would have to take off the fairings to check. But the last time I looked at everything, I didn't notice anything with rust. Do you know where in the chasis the coil grounds are located on new gen bikes?

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

If your compression is good, and the petcock diaphragm is functioning properly. Then an excessive amount of gasoline is being consumed by the engine, maybe through the main jets. Did you say that your carb jets are stock? No aftermarket jet kits are installed in your carbs? Your situation, and your mileage, is very confusing.

Would it be safe to assume my compression is good based on how it rides? It pulls from idle to redline really strong in all 6 gears. No hiccups anywhere.

The main jets are stock. They are clean as a whistle when I inspected them.

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

I do have one more thing... If your bike has California emissions on it, pull off one of the vacuum lines going to the black, rectangular box that stores gas tank fumes, and smell it to see if it is strong with gasoline odor. Also, maybe remove the box and turn upside-down to see if gas comes out. If it reeks of gasoline, or gas pours out of it, then we found the problem! One of the vacuum lines from the tank is letting the emissions suck gasoline into that black box! yikes!

My bike is NOT Cali emissions. Only one line on the left side of the tank.

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Sorry, to be so long-winded on the subject. I truly would like to knew just what the hell is wrong with your bike. As I'm sure everyone would like to know.

PM me if you need to....

Mike.

Mike, thanks for all the suggestions! Much appreciated.

But the weird thing is.....I no longer smell gasoline in the crankcase. BUT BUT BUT, my oil level is rising.

See pictures here. I don't know anymore. I'm about to give up and sell the bike or trade it in or something. I just want to ride.....

[Jammerkiller]

Originally Posted by cadd

I'm about to give up and sell the bike or trade it in or something. I just want to ride.....[/URL]

DON'T SELL IT!!!!

Thanks for the answers! So, your petcock should be okay, your compression CAN be checked at home with a compression gauge, or you can have a shop do it. ($$$) But otherwise compression seems to be good. Your oil no longer smells like gas, but seems to rise in level. No Cali emissions, and no rust sighted on the coils. My only other options for you are these....

1. Continue to ride, as you have been, and continue to monitor the oil level through the sight glass. (go 2000 miles or more) If you continue to notice and increase in oil level, then SOMETHING is getting in there! If your coolant level is checked good (at the radiator cap) then it's not coolant in the oil. So, only one thing left....gas.

2. After doing that, try shutting the petcock OFF after every ride, just to make sure that fuel is not getting into the carbs when you don't want it to. If you do this petcock method, and notice no more increase in oil level, and you notice an increase in fuel economy, then it's the petcock!

I have pre-gen Ninjas, but I would assume that the coils are still mounted up front near the top of the engine. 2 bolts hold a coil to the frame, and that is what you can inspect for any corrosion, behind the bolt heads and where the coil attaches to the frame. However, I think the coil issue is in no way affecting your missing gas/increased oil level problems.

Give that a shot......

[broilmebk]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

2. After doing that, try shutting the petcock OFF after every ride, just to make sure that fuel is not getting into the carbs when you don't want it to. If you do this petcock method, and notice no more increase in oil level, and you notice an increase in fuel economy, then it's the petcock!

There is no off position on the petcock for newgens

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by broilmebk

There is no off position on the petcock for newgens

Well that's no good.

[Jammerkiller]

Originally Posted by broilmebk

There is no off position on the petcock for newgens

Well, that DOES suck!

[cadd]

I may be onto something!!! Need you guys for advice.

I sprayed carb cleaner onto the carb boots (all 4 boots).

Idle set to 1,400 - 1,500 rpm for this test (after a 50 mile ride today).

The boots connecting to the airbox had no response to the carb cleaner.

The boots connecting the carbs to the motor had immediate response! I read in and her post that rpm should rise, correct?

Mine is doing the exact opposite!!!

When I sprayed on the left boot, rpm dropped below 1,000rpm and almost stalled out.

When I sprayed on the right boot, rpm dropped, but not as dramatic.

What does the dropping rpm mean?!?!

Edit: here's the video.

http://youtu.be/BBX-Gsksjd8

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

....What does the dropping rpm mean?!?!

Means your carb boots are not seated on the carbs good also some carb/throttle body cleaners will actually break down gas and cause the engine to stall. After watching your video you were basically spraying carb cleaner directly in the engine bypassing the carb throat.

Starting fluid (which is basically ether) would have caused the rpms to rise.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

After watching your video you were basically spraying carb cleaner directly in the engine bypassing the carb throat.

Bypassing the carb throat? Bypassing because the boots didn't have a good seal on the carbs? If there's a good seal, there should be no effect...no matter what I sprayed, correct?

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Starting fluid (which is basically ether) would have caused the rpms to rise.

I'll run out to grab a can to test. Thx.



Do you think the loose boots is what's causing my poor mileage? I guess I'll try to tighten the boots down some more. If that doesn't work, I guess it's time for replacement boots?




Jammer, the petcock is fine. It's currently off the bike and not a single drip. As others mentioned, there's no "off" position in the new gens. (see pic)

And........my oil level increased yet again (after another 100 miles on the bike).

Note: In the video, I've only ridden 100 miles since my last fill up. Look at the gas gauge. Yes yes yes. I know it's not the most accurate. But as a rough guide, it shows I have 1/4 tank left after 100 miles of riding. I'll probably get another 30 - 40 miles before I'm bone dry.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

... If there's a good seal, there should be no effect...no matter what I sprayed, correct?

Correct. No need for ether. They leak

Originally Posted by cadd

....Do you think the loose boots is what's causing my poor mileage? I guess I'll try to tighten the boots down some more. If that doesn't work, I guess it's time for replacement boots?

Not entirely. If anything it would run a tad leaner, which in turn you most likely make up for it by upping the idle speed or turning the throttle a little more.

Not unless your boots are in terrible shape, there may be no need to replace them. There are a whole lot of older bikes with much older boots than yours, that still work.

[cadd]

Alright. If I tighten the boots and they are fully sealed and I still get horrible gas mileage.....AND my oil level keeps increasing, I guess that would mean I have a much larger problem at hand!!!

If I can't find a fix, do you think a local mechanic can easily diagnosis it and fix it quickly? Or do you think he'll go through the same process we went through already?

If I can't fix it, I think I'll just trade it in at the dealership and pick up a used 300 instead. Although it doesn't affect performance, it just bothers me that I know something's not running 100% and I we can't fix it.

Do you think my choke mechanism on the carb is screwed up? Meaning, with the choke off, it somehow still chokes the bike making it run rich? Is there a way to check the choke mechanism to make sure it's functioning properly?

[Jammerkiller]

If your boots had a good seal, then there would be NO effect when you sprayed carb cleaner/starter fluid on them. So, yes, your left side carb-to-engine boot is loose/cracked.

Now, while watching the video, I noticed that it looks like the engine RPM stalls when you sprayed the fluid, but it looked like the spray was more directed towards the vacuum hoses on the carb, and not the boot itself. Also, when you sprayed the front boot on the RIGHT side of the bike, you sprayed in such a fashion as to where you could have been spraying more OVER the front right boot and more ONTO the front left boot. Is that making sense? So, for now, definitely inspect BOTH front boots.

Like DaBlue1 mentioned, boots shouldn't go "bad" or crack after such a short period of time. I still had 90's boots in my parts bin that were used on a friends pre-gen that worked just fine. Your bike had a previous owner ( right?) and there's no telling what happened to the bike or these boots while the bike was in his possession.

Now, the subject of your oil level. If the actual level is increasing then SOMETHING IS GETTING IN THERE! I would drain some, or ALL, of the oil into a clean pan and inspect it. Smell like gas? Have a different color than golden? Have chunks of stuff floating in it? Let us know......

[Jammerkiller]

Originally Posted by cadd

If I can't find a fix, do you think a local mechanic can easily diagnosis it and fix it quickly? Or do you think he'll go through the same process we went through already?

He may do the same thing you did. However, once you mention the oil level, he may look further into the carbs, and then he may find a problem with the choke/Starting Enrichener.

Originally Posted by cadd

Do you think my choke mechanism on the carb is screwed up? Meaning, with the choke off, it somehow still chokes the bike making it run rich? Is there a way to check the choke mechanism to make sure it's functioning properly?

I thought you already checked that. ??? That would possibly explain it, but I'm still not sure on the oil level. If it was gasoline in your oil, then the gas has to be getting past the float valves, rushing past the main jets (our being sucked into the starting enrichener circuit to bypass the jets) and pour directly into the front boots. That couldn't happen while the engine is running, though. The engine would burn just about any amount of extra fuel from the SE circuit, but the engine would run like **** during the process.

[Jammerkiller]

I'm starting to wonder if you shouldn't swap carbs with a friend's new-gen and ride a tankful through them. If mileage improves, and oil level doesn't increase, then we narrowed it down to YOUR carbs, at least.

[ninjamunky85]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

I'm starting to wonder if you shouldn't swap carbs with a friend's new-gen and ride a tankful through them. If mileage improves, and oil level doesn't increase, then we narrowed it down to YOUR carbs, at least.

I was just about to say the same thing. It's worth a shot.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Your bike had a previous owner ( right?) and there's no telling what happened to the bike or these boots while the bike was in his possession.

Yes. Bike had TWO previous owners. I am the third owner.

I'm not sure who the first owner was. It was either a bike that was unsold from the dealer....or the first owner traded it in at the dealer.

The 2nd owner purchased the bike from a dealer here in NJ (The Cycle Exchange in Andover, NJ). He purchased the bike in June 2013. The bike had 400 miles on the odometer at that time (I have the receipt). He paid $3,200 for the bike. The OTD price was $3,567 (including taxes and all the fees).

He rode it from June 2013 until the winter and put on approx 550 miles....I purchased it in January 2014 with 950 miles on the odometer.

I checked carfax before purchasing. There was ZERO history on the bike. It just showed in July 2010, the registration was updated when the owner moved the bike to a new location (Linden, NJ).

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

I thought you already checked that. ??? That would possibly explain it, but I'm still not sure on the oil level. If it was gasoline in your oil, then the gas has to be getting past the float valves, rushing past the main jets (our being sucked into the starting enrichener circuit to bypass the jets) and pour directly into the front boots. That couldn't happen while the engine is running, though. The engine would burn just about any amount of extra fuel from the SE circuit, but the engine would run like **** during the process.

I checked that the choke cable fully opens and closes the choke mechanism. However, I don't know exactly what goes on in the carbs when that slide goes back and forth. The slide (that is operated by the choke cable functions properly). But is it "really" working internally?

http://youtu.be/jlaJi9wnYhM

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Now, the subject of your oil level. If the actual level is increasing then SOMETHING IS GETTING IN THERE! I would drain some, or ALL, of the oil into a clean pan and inspect it. Smell like gas? Have a different color than golden? Have chunks of stuff floating in it? Let us know......

I just drained it 13 days ago!!! That was when the bike had 1,150 on the odo. It now has 1,500.

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

I'm starting to wonder if you shouldn't swap carbs with a friend's new-gen and ride a tankful through them. If mileage improves, and oil level doesn't increase, then we narrowed it down to YOUR carbs, at least.

I don't have any friends that ride a new gen. I guess I can just buy a used carb off ebay to do this test if I can't figure it out.

[Jammerkiller]

Originally Posted by cadd

The slide (that is operated by the choke cable functions properly). But is it "really" working internally?

http://youtu.be/jlaJi9wnYhM

True. The best way to tell is to operate the choke lever, and look on the carbs. You will see a plunger popping out on each one, if the cable is operating properly. But, you still don't know if it's working internally unless you take the carbs off the bike, pop off the tops and the diaphragms, and move the plungers out by hand.

I wasn't wanting you to swap out the oil! LOL! I'm just saying to drop some in a clean pan to inspect it for color, smell, junk floating in it. If it's good, then pour it back in. Or, you could drain ALL of the oil in a clean pan, then measure the amount to see if you do have around 1.9L. (2 qt.) This is how you can determine if you have an excess of "whatever" in the oil and in your crankcase.

A thought occurred.... have you inspected the airbox lately? There should be a breather hose that connects the air filter box to the top of the crankcase. Is there any gas in there? Smell like gas?

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

A thought occurred.... have you inspected the airbox lately? There should be a breather hose that connects the air filter box to the top of the crankcase. Is there any gas in there? Smell like gas?

Good idea. I'll take a look tomorrow morning. I changed out the filter not too long ago (maybe two weeks ago).But I don't recall seeing any hose that connects the airbox to the crankcase.

I've been sniffing hoses left and right! The hose that's connected to the left side of the tank that leads to the ground (no gas smell).

Then there's a hose from the middle of the two carbs that leads to the top of the battery that leads to nothing (no gas smell)

There's two hoses that's connected to the petcock. The smaller one...no gas smell.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

Alright. If I tighten the boots and they are fully sealed and I still get horrible gas mileage.....AND my oil level keeps increasing, I guess that would mean I have a much larger problem at hand!!!

If you keep getting horrible gas mileage you may want to consider experimenting with a smaller main jet (#95), however your gas mileage has been improving as the ambient temps get warmer. So, don't change just yet.

If your oil level keeps increasing to the point where it gets above the max fill line in the crankcase, you have a problem. If there is no evidence of any other fluids in your oil such as gas, coolant or water you have Gremlins. Oil does not magically appear nor does the engine make it increase, however warmer ambient and engine temps can make oil a little thinner and flow better, therefore you may see some oil be released from the head, oil filter and any other place where oil can sit and pool inside the engine. There is also a small amount of expansion of oil as it's temp increases. As long as you put the right amount of oil in the bike the first time, I would not worry about the micro fluctuation in the oil level. Also do not expect to drain out the exact same amount of oil that you put in either.

Originally Posted by cadd

If I can't find a fix, do you think a local mechanic can easily diagnosis it and fix it quickly? Or do you think he'll go through the same process we went through already?

A local mechanic will do the exact same stuff you've been doing for 2 weeks and charge you $85 an hour to tell you what you already know.

Originally Posted by cadd

Do you think my choke mechanism on the carb is screwed up? Meaning, with the choke off, it somehow still chokes the bike making it run rich? Is there a way to check the choke mechanism to make sure it's functioning properly?

Your choke may or may not work as it should. The question is..do you use it?
Using it properly would give you an indication if something was amiss with it.
You said you didn't need the choke, so you did not use it (on a stock bike, which is really rare especially when it's cold out). Even though you can see it move when you move the cable it may not be closing all the way and need adjustment to do so. Fuel mixture trouble could result if the choke plunger does not seat properly in its rest position after the choke lever is returned to the off position.

Something you may want to check again. see attachment.

[cadd]

I just ordered an oil analysis kit. Once it arrives, I'll drain the oil and send in a sample. I'll post the results once I get them.

I'll tighten the boots tonight and re-test again with carb cleaner.

You are correct. I never needed the choke....even when I rode when it was below freezing.

If I continues to get horrible gas mileage, I'll take the carbs out again and bring it to a shop to let them take a look at it (in case I missed anything).

I'll keep you guys updated.

PS - one of the reason why gas mileage increased is because I modified my riding. When I got 41mpg (my highest), I was shifting at 6k and cruising around d 4k-5k.

My last fill up was 38mpg. I shifted at 7k nd cruised around 6k. Ideally, I like cruising around 7k and shift at 8 or 9k. But I'll get in the mid - high 30 range when I do that =(

[broilmebk]

IMO, the red flag I see here is the fact that you don't need choke when starting even below freezing. Even at 50F my engine will sometimes stall without choke.

I've been following this thread and am very curious as to the cause. Kudos to Cadd for your diligence.

[cadd]

If I ever get it fixed, I'm never going to sell this bike! Maybe I'll let it go for $20k. But too much sentimental value attached to it already.

Dablue, thx for that attachment.

[cadd]

@Jammerkiller - is this the hose you were referring to that connects the bottom of the airbox (left side of bike) to the crankcase? If so, it smells strongly of gasoline! Is it supposed to?

Also, does anyone know what that clear rubber thing is that's at the bottom of the airbox? (left side of bike).

The air filter does NOT smell like gasoline at all

[cadd]

When starting fluid is introduced to airbox, bike stalls

http://youtu.be/YGgvouuhwn0

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

@Jammerkiller - is this the hose you were referring to that connects the bottom of the airbox (left side of bike) to the crankcase? If so, it smells strongly of gasoline! Is it supposed to?

Also, does anyone know what that clear rubber thing is that's at the bottom of the airbox? (left side of bike).

The air filter does NOT smell like gasoline at all

What you may be smelling is residual gas fumes. The crankcase breather hose can't smell like gas while the air filter and the oil do not. Gas has to go past both of them to get to the crankcase breather hose. The crankcase breather body is actually inside the crankcase.

The clear cap is a drain plug to drain oil or water or gas that may accumulate in the airbox.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

When starting fluid is introduced to airbox, bike stalls

http://youtu.be/YGgvouuhwn0

Turn the throttle so your rpms go up to about 3k. That way the slides are moved up a little and the butterflies are open. Then spray.

What you really want to do with the starting fluid is check for leaks around the carb boots with the airbox all buttoned up.

[DaBlue1]

Also make sure the clamps and boots are on correctly.

[cuong-nutz]

Go ahead and remove the KLEEN air system off and plug up the lines.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Turn the throttle so your rpms go up to about 3k. That way the slides are moved up a little and the butterflies are open. Then spray.

I'll try this Thurs evening and report back.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

What you really want to do with the starting fluid is check for leaks around the carb boots with the airbox all buttoned up.

I re-tightened the clamps on the boots (all 6 clamps). When I sprayed the starting fluid, no rpm change. All four boots seem ok.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Also make sure the clamps and boots are on correctly.

Thx for the PDF. When I re-installed the carbs a few weeks ago, I triple checked to make sure HEAD was pointed towards the motor and CARB was pointing to the carbs.

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Go ahead and remove the KLEEN air system off and plug up the lines.

If I remove it, how does that affect the way the bike runs? Unless it will solve my problem, I don't want to remove it and have another variable to worry about. I rather keep everything stock. This way, I can start pinpointing and work on it with the process of elimination.

However, I'm not having any luck....so maybe I'll take off the KLEEN air system if I can't come up with anything.

[cuong-nutz]

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948

The system just helps lean out the mixture by introducing exhaust fumes back into the airbox. I hear you on keeping it simple.

Vacuum hoses connected properly?
Did you drain the airbox by removing the clear cap?

[cadd]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Vacuum hoses connected properly?

Which vacuum hose should I look at? The one going to the petcock?

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Did you drain the airbox by removing the clear cap?

No. I didn't realize you can do that. Do I just pull it off by hand?


Would anyone be willing to experiment? If you're willing to, would you please spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the airbox while the bike is idling and let me know the effect it has. I just want to see if it stalls out like my bike.

[Jammerkiller]

Originally Posted by cadd

@Jammerkiller - is this the hose you were referring to that connects the bottom of the airbox (left side of bike) to the crankcase? If so, it smells strongly of gasoline! Is it supposed to?

Yes that's the hose, and No, it is NOT supposed to smell like gas. So, you have a problem with the carbs dumping gas into the airbox. Either a jetting problem or a vacuum line or something in that area. I would say that you have narrowed the problem down, now to fix it.

Can you verify that your vacuum lines are hooked up correctly by comparing to a stock pic or by the service manual, etc.?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

.....Would anyone be willing to experiment? If you're willing to, would you please spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the airbox while the bike is idling and let me know the effect it has. I just want to see if it stalls out like my bike.

Do you know that at idle speed, your slides are almost completely down and your butterflies barely open, letting in little air?

If your choke is not adjusted properly and already causing a rich condition at idle speed, adding ether may cause it to be even richer and stall.

Some starting fluid instruction say not to use on a running engine, however a short burst with the engine speed up will not hurt it.

You've done your test on your boots and found you have no more leaks. I would move on to correctly adjusting the choke lever.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by Jammerkiller

Yes that's the hose, and No, it is NOT supposed to smell like gas. So, you have a problem with the carbs dumping gas into the airbox. Either a jetting problem or a vacuum line or something in that area. I would say that you have narrowed the problem down, now to fix it.

Can you verify that your vacuum lines are hooked up correctly by comparing to a stock pic or by the service manual, etc.?

I don't have the service manual I'm not sure which vacuum line you're referring to. But as far as I can tell, all lines/hoses are secured.

Dablue1 mentioned that the smell should be ok since I don't smell any gasoline in the airbox by the filter? Conflicting info here

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

You've done your test on your boots and found you have no more leaks. I would move on to correctly adjusting the choke lever.

The choke lever has a few mm of free play. When I look at the choke cable that activates the choke mechanism on the exterior of the carbs, it has the same 2mm of free play as well.

Do you think I need to pull the carbs out again to look at the inside to see if the choke is functioning properly? I don't even know how to determine that.

By the way, how does the choke work for our carbs? Does it limit the flow of air? Or does it increase gas?

Also, I started the bike (cold bike) with full choke. The rpms started rising to 5k and stayed there. When I dialed the choke lever back, rpms went back down to proper idle.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

.....By the way, how does the choke work for our carbs? Does it limit the flow of air? Or does it increase gas?

Also, I started the bike (cold bike) with full choke. The rpms started rising to 5k and stayed there. When I dialed the choke lever back, rpms went back down to proper idle.

The choke is a simple plunger that opens and closes the circuit. It supplements the pilot jets by opening a circuit that allows fuel to flow into combustion. See this video on how CV carbs work

Sounds like your choke is doing what it's suppose to do although it's kind of high (more likely contributed to the mixture screws being set @ 2.5 turns out)
Other than that how does the bike ride? It should do better now that you have no leaks in the carb boots.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by cadd

....Dablue1 mentioned that the smell should be ok since I don't smell any gasoline in the airbox by the filter? Conflicting info here

In order for gas to reach the crankcase breather hose, the gas has to go past two things...1.) the air filter inside the airbox 2.) the crankcase oil. If neither reek of gasoline, it's not possible, especially since you've proven you do not have a petcock leak nor have gasoline in the oil.

Since you have carb cleaner, disconnect the crankcase breather hose and remove the drain plug cap from the airbox and spray carb cleaner inside the airbox to remove any old oil or dirt which may have settled inside the airbox. Also clean the cap and breather hose.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

In order for gas to reach the crankcase breather hose, the gas has to go past two things...the crankcase oil.

I'll know for a fact after I send in an oil sample for an analysis once the test kit arrives in the mail.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Since you have carb cleaner, disconnect the crankcase breather hose and remove the drain plug cap from the airbox and spray carb cleaner inside the airbox to remove any old oil or dirt which may have settled inside the airbox. Also clean the cap and breather hose.

The drain plug cap is that clear rubber thing, correct? And the breather hose attaches right above the drain plug cap, correct? Does it matter which hole I spray the carb cleaner into? Or how much?

How do I clean the breather hose? Remove the hose completely and spray carb cleaner inside? Or use another cleaner such as diesel fuel?