Who has worn through stock brake rotors?

headshrink · April 29th, 2010, 01:27 PM

I'm wondering how many miles people are getting out of their stock brake rotors. I don't recall the actual measurement, but when I replaced my brake pads, I had more wear on my rotors than I anticipated. I wasn't at the service limit yet, but it didn't look like it would last past the new set of pads. So what are realistic expectations re: rotor life?

Also, I have read conflicting info about aftermarket brake pads and rotor life. I'm running Gaffer HH pads (and have EBC HH in the ready in my parts bin), like them a lot, but wonder if they cost me rotor life, or if they are more forgiving.

When it is time to order new rotors, is there a better option than the standard OEM parts suppliers (bikebandit, etc). They look a lot more expensive than I would have anticipated..... although most of the aftermarket ones are even MORE.... so maybe I have to just start saving my pennies, I don't know.

backinthesaddleagain · April 29th, 2010, 01:43 PM

12,000 so far on stock pads and rotors. not noticing any excessive wear. I am probably easier on equipment than most, or everyting will break at once!!

CZroe · April 29th, 2010, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

12,000 so far on stock pads and rotors. not noticing any excessive wear. I am probably easier on equipment than most, or everyting will break at once!!

Stock PADS at 12K?!

ninja250 · April 29th, 2010, 08:49 PM

I'm not positive, I need to look again.. but I think the FSM noted to replace the rotors if they get thinner than 4mm.

Don't quote me I'm going to double check that right now.

edit:
replace front rotor at 4.0mm thick at thinnest spot (0.16")
replace rear rotor at 4.5mm thick at thinnest spot (0.18")
If the disk can wobble (left to right) more than .3mm (0.01") than it needs to be replaced as well.

You can likely expect the rotor to wear much faster with upgraded pads. If you are stopping better, the friction is going somewhere..

CZroe · April 29th, 2010, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninja250

I'm not positive, I need to look again.. but I think the FSM noted to replace the rotors if they get thinner than 4mm.

Don't quote me I'm going to double check that right now.

edit:
replace front rotor at 4.0mm thick at thinnest spot (0.16")
replace rear rotor at 4.5mm thick at thinnest spot (0.18")
If the disk can wobble (left to right) more than .3mm (0.01") than it needs to be replaced as well.

You can likely expect the rotor to wear much faster with upgraded pads. If you are stopping better, the friction is going somewhere..

Probably not. It takes the same amount of force from forward momentum applied to the rotor and dissipated as friction/heat, just over less rotational distance. Being able to brake better often translates into pushing things farther so that the user may go faster and brake harder and later, so you still might end up wearing it out faster, but that's all in the user's behavior. Also, higher surface temps are generated when the same force is applied over less distance so heat may make a difference in wear also, but I wouldn't say that it's enough under the same conditions to say that the rotors will wear any faster.

Banzai · April 30th, 2010, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninja250

You can likely expect the rotor to wear much faster with upgraded pads. If you are stopping better, the friction is going somewhere..

This has never been my experience with upgraded pads on street bikes.

ninja250 · April 30th, 2010, 12:11 PM

So the upgraded pad takes all the extra abuse?
Any evidence to support this?

I'm sure the rotor wears more. Weather or not it's noticeable is another story.

When I upgrade pads on my flatland bike, the whole bike undergoes more wear because it acts at a higher performance.

Rayme · April 30th, 2010, 12:35 PM

Use more engine braking, use that energy to compress air instead of wearing out pads and rotors :P

rockNroll · April 30th, 2010, 01:27 PM

I've never worn a rotor out. I've cracked and/or blued a bunch though.

CZroe · May 1st, 2010, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninja250

So the upgraded pad takes all the extra abuse?
Any evidence to support this?

I'm sure the rotor wears more. Weather or not it's noticeable is another story.

When I upgrade pads on my flatland bike, the whole bike undergoes more wear because it acts at a higher performance.

It's basic Newtonian physics. Equal and opposite reaction. There is no "extra abuse" for stopping from the same speed because it takes an equal amount of force applied to the rotor to stop a bike going the same speed. The difference is that that same force can be applied with less wear on the pad, but that means faster stopping on the disc, not more wear. If it rotated half a turn instead of a full turn it's the same amount of wear but it's twice as much per distance. Because you aren't going to brake on the same part of the disc every time, it still spreads it out randomly and the wear remains constant. The one factor that changes is that your increased stopping ability may lead to driving and stopping faster, which will cause more wear no matter what pads you used.

ninja250 · May 1st, 2010, 04:54 AM

Exactly. Equal and opposite reaction.
Something is giving way to the fact that you can stop better. (and likely use that fact to your advantage if you put better brakes on your bike)
I'm going to agree to disagree with you.

For one, increased tire wear.

Snake · May 1st, 2010, 08:11 AM

Bob, how many miles do you have on your bike? It seems to new to wear out a rotor that quickly.

CZroe · May 1st, 2010, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninja250

Exactly. Equal and opposite reaction.
Something is giving way to the fact that you can stop better. (and likely use that fact to your advantage if you put better brakes on your bike)
I'm going to agree to disagree with you.

For one, increased tire wear.

It has nothing to do with stopping "faster" or "slower." Dragging your brake until you gradually stop takes the same force as stopping sooner according to Newton's laws except that you get to take advantage of more road, wind, and rotational friction when you take your time/distance. When comparing one pad to another you can apply more force to the inferior pad to stop just as soon but that is because it requires more to reach the same amount of friction on the disc. You see? The only extra force needed was from your hand. The same amount of surface drag (friction) on the disc was required to stop.

headshrink · May 1st, 2010, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snake

Bob, how many miles do you have on your bike? It seems to new to wear out a rotor that quickly.

I'm not quite there yet, but getting there. ~16k miles with 4.3ishmm on the front rotor. I was hoping to have a solution in place for when I got there, if there was one better than ordering OEM from the standard suppliers. If it is just expensive, well, I guess I should start saving.

Snake · May 1st, 2010, 08:21 PM

You have put quite a few miles on your bike. I have 18,ooo on mine and the rotors are still within spec.
Do you travel down dusty roads? Sand and dirt can contribute to wear.

headshrink · May 1st, 2010, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snake

You have put quite a few miles on your bike. I have 18,ooo on mine and the rotors are still within spec.
Do you travel down dusty roads? Sand and dirt can contribute to wear.

Nope, just regular paved roads. 50% in-town hwy.

backinthesaddleagain · May 5th, 2010, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Stock PADS at 12K?!

Went to dealer for inspection today and friend there told me fronts are good but rears need to be replaced. Can still see the minimum wear marker though.

Thrak · May 5th, 2010, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rayme

Use more engine braking, use that energy to compress air instead of wearing out pads and rotors :P

Umm.... no.

Whats cheaper? Pads and rotors or an engine? Whats easier to replace? Which is designed to wear out quicker?

Angel-be-Good · September 5th, 2010, 09:33 PM

Oy, got the call from my local shop letting me know my front rotor needs to be replaced--$300+ for OEM, $200+ for EBC. Anyone know if one or the other is a better product? I don't mind spending extra for OEM if it's better, gotta make the decision on Tuesday.

kkim · September 5th, 2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angel-be-Good

Oy, got the call from my local shop letting me know my front rotor needs to be replaced--$300+ for OEM, $200+ for EBC. Anyone know if one or the other is a better product? I don't mind spending extra for OEM if it's better, gotta make the decision on Tuesday.

how many miles on that rotor?

edit... $285 from cheapcycleparts if that helps.

Liquidtoon · September 5th, 2010, 11:28 PM

I am curious about you folks still using stock pads having that many miles. I am at 3,000 miles on my stock pads, and just went in for a check up the other day and the shop told me absolutely must get new brakes asap as they are almost entirely worn down.

kkim · September 5th, 2010, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Liquidtoon

I am curious about you folks still using stock pads having that many miles. I am at 3,000 miles on my stock pads, and just went in for a check up the other day and the shop told me absolutely must get new brakes asap as they are almost entirely worn down.

brake rotors or brake pads? have you asked the shop what the measurements are that they are concerned about?

Liquidtoon · September 5th, 2010, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

Went to dealer for inspection today and friend there told me fronts are good but rears need to be replaced. Can still see the minimum wear marker though.

Just the pads are low. They said the pads need replaced and mentioned how thick the pads are but I forgot the measurement they said. I was just wondering if needing pads this early (3,800 miles) is a problem of if the people saying 12k on stock pads meant stock rotors.

stealth250 · September 6th, 2010, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrak

Umm.... no.

Whats cheaper? Pads and rotors or an engine? Whats easier to replace? Which is designed to wear out quicker?

Engine braking meaning decelerating and downshifting. Easier on brakes because you don't need to use them as much or as hard like if you just pulled the clutch in and grabbed the brakes. Same goes for a car with a standard transmission. I just turned 7k and still have at least 40-50% left on my stock pads.

Angel-be-Good · September 6th, 2010, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

how many miles on that rotor?

Around 27,000.

CZroe · September 6th, 2010, 11:03 AM

Craig AKA 2WheelGuy said that he has never had to replace a rotor when I recently asked this same question. Of course, he races and his use is distributed across multiple bikes, so that may have something to do with it.

kkim · September 6th, 2010, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angel-be-Good

Around 27,000.

that's a lot of miles.

ask the dealer what the rotor thickness is to make sure you're getting close to the minimum thickness allowed in the manual.

pads seem to go quickly on some bikes, but usually due to a riding style of leaving the rear brake partially engaged when they ride, but from what I've read on this forum, rotors seem to enjoy a long life. Exactly how long depends on how they are used.

have you changed pads prior and did you use stock or aftermarket? sometimes aftermarket pads can be harsher on rotors and lead to accelerated wear at the expense of rotor life.

Cedilla · September 6th, 2010, 12:23 PM

I'm almost 11k on stock pads, but my fronts are in bad need of changing, and my rears are almost there.

Angel-be-Good · September 6th, 2010, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

ask the dealer what the rotor thickness is to make sure you're getting close to the minimum thickness allowed in the manual.

Dealer said it was beyond spec for servicing.

I'm on my third front pad, just installed it about 2,500 miles ago. I was using factory pads until then, but the newest pad is an EBC.

kkim · September 6th, 2010, 05:46 PM

27k is pretty good from a stock rotor, as I imagine you're pretty hard on the brakes?

No feedback on which is better, but there are used rotors on ebay for like $40, if you want to consider that option.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/08-10...Q5fAccessories

Angel-be-Good · September 6th, 2010, 06:08 PM

Thanks for the link! I'll definitely try eBay, $340 for a stock rotor is crazy.

kkim · September 6th, 2010, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angel-be-Good

Thanks for the link! I'll definitely try eBay, $340 for a stock rotor is crazy.

cool... make sure to ask for thickness measurements before you buy and if the disk is warped.

I know other people that have bought used front disks off ebay and have good results.

gl

Sailariel · September 6th, 2010, 06:35 PM

Changed pads at 12K. Rotors are still fine. Did change the brake lines to the SS Sielded. I have found that stopping power is improved and effort is less. Been hanging out with the racing types too long. Brake lines were an $80 mod installed. Money well spent.

ztrack157 · September 6th, 2010, 08:36 PM

I can source OEM rotors for $150 shipped as a service to forum members. I refuse to let people pay nearly $300 for them or over $200 for the ebc's

spooph · September 7th, 2010, 01:45 PM

I'm at 35,000 on stock rotors, I'll measure them tonight and find out if they're still within spec. I'm on my 4th set of pads up front. 2nd out back... :P

ztrack157 · September 7th, 2010, 02:13 PM

With some rotors I see they can warp if abused. 99.5% of ninja owners do not ride hard enough to do this (I don't care how spirited you think your riding is). I see the outer plating chipping off as a common occurrence. I would stick with Spooh's assessment and say the OEM rotor under normal operating conditions should last at least 3 sets of pads. Or roughly 25k miles.

demp · September 8th, 2010, 04:54 AM

Hmmm maybe I should check my rotors.... Are they the same one as what's on the pregen? (thinking about the ebay option)

headshrink · September 9th, 2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by demp

Hmmm maybe I should check my rotors.... Are they the same one as what's on the pregen? (thinking about the ebay option)

The newgen went to the newer pedal rotor design. I don't know if the pregen will fit at the hub or not (or if the pads would be aligned properly)..... I personally wouldn't, but if it did work I don't see a problem with it. Just make sure before you buy. Also, if you buy from ebay, there is a greater possibility of getting a warped, or damaged, rotor. I'm not saying you will, just be aware of the additional risk.

Alex · September 9th, 2010, 04:32 PM

Rotors are different sizes as well, the new-gens are 20mm larger. (Don't test me on what their actual sizes are, I forget whether they went from 240 - 260 or 260 - 280

)

ztrack157 · September 9th, 2010, 08:51 PM

pretty sure the front is a 290 on the new gen but don't quote me on that

April 29th, 2010, 01:27 PM	#1
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Who has worn through stock brake rotors? I'm wondering how many miles people are getting out of their stock brake rotors. I don't recall the actual measurement, but when I replaced my brake pads, I had more wear on my rotors than I anticipated. I wasn't at the service limit yet, but it didn't look like it would last past the new set of pads. So what are realistic expectations re: rotor life? Also, I have read conflicting info about aftermarket brake pads and rotor life. I'm running Gaffer HH pads (and have EBC HH in the ready in my parts bin), like them a lot, but wonder if they cost me rotor life, or if they are more forgiving. When it is time to order new rotors, is there a better option than the standard OEM parts suppliers (bikebandit, etc). They look a lot more expensive than I would have anticipated..... although most of the aftermarket ones are even MORE.... so maybe I have to just start saving my pennies, I don't know.

April 29th, 2010, 08:49 PM	#4
ninja250 You are sleeping Name: Casey Location: LMFAO!!! Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2 Posts: A lot.	I'm not positive, I need to look again.. but I think the FSM noted to replace the rotors if they get thinner than 4mm. Don't quote me I'm going to double check that right now. edit: replace front rotor at 4.0mm thick at thinnest spot (0.16") replace rear rotor at 4.5mm thick at thinnest spot (0.18") If the disk can wobble (left to right) more than .3mm (0.01") than it needs to be replaced as well. You can likely expect the rotor to wear much faster with upgraded pads. If you are stopping better, the friction is going somewhere.. __________________________________________________ <Yeah, it's a 250. LMFAO! Weaksauce

April 30th, 2010, 12:11 PM	#7
ninja250 You are sleeping Name: Casey Location: LMFAO!!! Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2 Posts: A lot.	So the upgraded pad takes all the extra abuse? Any evidence to support this? I'm sure the rotor wears more. Weather or not it's noticeable is another story. When I upgrade pads on my flatland bike, the whole bike undergoes more wear because it acts at a higher performance. __________________________________________________ <Yeah, it's a 250. LMFAO! Weaksauce

April 30th, 2010, 12:35 PM	#8
Rayme ninjette.org guru Name: Remy Location: Moncton Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '04 sv650s Posts: 438	Use more engine braking, use that energy to compress air instead of wearing out pads and rotors :P __________________________________________________ There's 2 types of people in this world, those who complain and those who act.

April 30th, 2010, 01:27 PM	#9
rockNroll . Name: rock Location: greenville, south carolina Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): black Posts: A lot.	I've never worn a rotor out. I've cracked and/or blued a bunch though. __________________________________________________ Always get a second opinion because most of these people are makin' this stuff up

April 29th, 2010, 01:43 PM	#2
backinthesaddleagain ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Greg Location: Rhode Island Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 ZX6R 636 Posts: A lot.	12,000 so far on stock pads and rotors. not noticing any excessive wear. I am probably easier on equipment than most, or everyting will break at once!!

May 1st, 2010, 04:54 AM	#11
ninja250 You are sleeping Name: Casey Location: LMFAO!!! Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2 Posts: A lot.	Exactly. Equal and opposite reaction. Something is giving way to the fact that you can stop better. (and likely use that fact to your advantage if you put better brakes on your bike) I'm going to agree to disagree with you. For one, increased tire wear. __________________________________________________ <Yeah, it's a 250. LMFAO! Weaksauce

May 1st, 2010, 08:11 AM	#12
Snake ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rick Location: Alexandria, Louisiana Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Blue Ninja 250 Posts: Too much. MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14	Bob, how many miles do you have on your bike? It seems to new to wear out a rotor that quickly.

May 1st, 2010, 08:21 PM	#15
Snake ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rick Location: Alexandria, Louisiana Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Blue Ninja 250 Posts: Too much. MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14	You have put quite a few miles on your bike. I have 18,ooo on mine and the rotors are still within spec. Do you travel down dusty roads? Sand and dirt can contribute to wear.

September 5th, 2010, 09:33 PM	#19
Angel-be-Good ninjette.org guru Name: Ryan Location: San Francisco Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, '11 Street Triple R Posts: 337	Oy, got the call from my local shop letting me know my front rotor needs to be replaced--$300+ for OEM, $200+ for EBC. Anyone know if one or the other is a better product? I don't mind spending extra for OEM if it's better, gotta make the decision on Tuesday. __________________________________________________ The Sunday Best \| Current mileage: 50,000

September 5th, 2010, 11:28 PM	#21
Liquidtoon ninjette.org member Name: Josh Location: Sacramento, Ca Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250r Posts: 215	I am curious about you folks still using stock pads having that many miles. I am at 3,000 miles on my stock pads, and just went in for a check up the other day and the shop told me absolutely must get new brakes asap as they are almost entirely worn down.

September 6th, 2010, 11:03 AM	#26
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	Craig AKA 2WheelGuy said that he has never had to replace a rotor when I recently asked this same question. Of course, he races and his use is distributed across multiple bikes, so that may have something to do with it.

September 6th, 2010, 12:23 PM	#28
Cedilla ninjette.org sage Name: Chris Location: Huntsville, AL Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250 (sold) Posts: 755	I'm almost 11k on stock pads, but my fronts are in bad need of changing, and my rears are almost there. __________________________________________________ The Ninjette is not a disposable bike. You are not ever supposed to get rid of it. It is like a [friendly] herpes virus.... once you got it, you get keep it forever. Originally posted by-Headshrink

September 6th, 2010, 05:46 PM	#30
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	27k is pretty good from a stock rotor, as I imagine you're pretty hard on the brakes? No feedback on which is better, but there are used rotors on ebay for like $40, if you want to consider that option. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/08-10...Q5fAccessories

September 6th, 2010, 06:08 PM	#31
Angel-be-Good ninjette.org guru Name: Ryan Location: San Francisco Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, '11 Street Triple R Posts: 337	Thanks for the link! I'll definitely try eBay, $340 for a stock rotor is crazy. __________________________________________________ The Sunday Best \| Current mileage: 50,000

September 6th, 2010, 06:35 PM	#33
Sailariel ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Alex Location: Belfast, ME Join Date: Jul 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Honda NT-700-V, formerly, Green 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	Changed pads at 12K. Rotors are still fine. Did change the brake lines to the SS Sielded. I have found that stopping power is improved and effort is less. Been hanging out with the racing types too long. Brake lines were an $80 mod installed. Money well spent.

September 6th, 2010, 08:36 PM	#34
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	I can source OEM rotors for $150 shipped as a service to forum members. I refuse to let people pay nearly $300 for them or over $200 for the ebc's __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 7th, 2010, 01:45 PM	#35
spooph ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Spooph Location: Golden, CO Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '15	I'm at 35,000 on stock rotors, I'll measure them tonight and find out if they're still within spec. I'm on my 4th set of pads up front. 2nd out back... :P __________________________________________________ My therapist has 2 wheels and a seat. If you are ever in doubt to my tone, please refer to my avatar.

September 7th, 2010, 02:13 PM	#36
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	With some rotors I see they can warp if abused. 99.5% of ninja owners do not ride hard enough to do this (I don't care how spirited you think your riding is). I see the outer plating chipping off as a common occurrence. I would stick with Spooh's assessment and say the OEM rotor under normal operating conditions should last at least 3 sets of pads. Or roughly 25k miles. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 8th, 2010, 04:54 AM	#37
demp ninjette.org sage Name: Matthew Location: Toronto Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 V-Star 950 Tourer (Deep Blue) Posts: 570	Hmmm maybe I should check my rotors.... Are they the same one as what's on the pregen? (thinking about the ebay option)

September 9th, 2010, 04:32 PM	#39
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Rotors are different sizes as well, the new-gens are 20mm larger. (Don't test me on what their actual sizes are, I forget whether they went from 240 - 260 or 260 - 280 ) __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

September 9th, 2010, 08:51 PM	#40
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	pretty sure the front is a 290 on the new gen but don't quote me on that __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
A Few Questions About Replacing Brake Rotors	The Red Scourge	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	6	January 23rd, 2015 01:24 AM
Deglazing Brake Rotors	Motofool	Videos	4	January 7th, 2015 07:17 PM
Replacement brake rotors	blades8306	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	7	September 11th, 2012 12:49 PM
FS: 08+ Yosh CF Slipon, Stock Headers, Stock Brake Lines, Stock Rearsets	Dmitriy	Motorcycle-related	16	August 24th, 2011 11:03 AM
New Brake Pad=New Brake rotors????	kenji_808	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	3	July 20th, 2011 06:34 AM