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Old January 28th, 2011, 04:02 PM   #1
Alex
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Buying a used motorcycle - What should I check?

I'd try and write something intelligent in this thread, but it has already been done for us quite thoroughly at this link:

Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide

Great checklist of how to determine whether the used bike you are looking at is the one for you.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 01:23 PM   #2
mrlmd
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Hey, that's my link. Do I get half credit? (J/K)
Glad you posted that up there so maybe others will find it for some good advice before buying a used bike. Or at least get an idea of what to look for/at.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 02:29 PM   #3
Alex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlmd View Post
Hey, that's my link. Do I get half credit? (J/K)
Nope. You're just the first to ask me to sticky it.

1st time
2nd time
3rd time
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Old January 29th, 2011, 06:00 PM   #4
mrlmd
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Well no matter, that's OK.
Just glad you got it up here so maybe someone can find it and it can be useful.
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Old July 28th, 2011, 02:52 AM   #5
DarkNinja52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex View Post
Nope. You're just the first to ask me to sticky it.

1st time
2nd time
3rd time
I enjoyed this post

Also the link is really helpful also. Definitely a good thing to sticky!
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Old August 20th, 2011, 10:45 AM   #6
Alex
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gfloyd has found a great new link as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloyd2002 View Post
If you do purchase used, I just stumbled across this excellent article: Tips on Buying Used
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Old August 20th, 2011, 11:43 AM   #7
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Just a couple of months ago I was looking at the classifieds for a 250 but seems like I catch myself looking at a ZZR. I found one that is bone stock for a 2005 with only 950 miles in it and never been dropped. This thing looked like it just came out of the the crate. Everthing's straight and even the original tires dont have dry rots and the studs are still present for the most part of the tire treads. Needless to say - I wasnt able to resist it and the deal was made.

I went with T-CLOCS.

I'm still looking forward of owning a 250 though regardless.

Very good link. In-depth.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 05:13 PM   #8
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MOTM - Feb '12
EDIT: Copied from another thread

Those 23,000 miles worry me and the owner not doing the valve service worries me more. If the bike hasn't been treated well, the engine may not have another 15k miles in it. And getting the valves and brakes done is going to cost you.

I could have sworn there was a thread on here somewhere on how to check out a used bike, but I'm not finding it. Recreating from several sources:
  • Check the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule. See if you can pull the chain off the rear sprocket. If you can, the chain is shot. Hooked or bent sprocket teeth are a sign they will need to be changed and that the owner hasn't cared well for the bike.
  • The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread. If the bike has a ton of tire wear around the edges, beware. Make sure the tires are properly inflated to spec - if they are underinflated, you can assume that the owner doesn't do regular maintenance checks, beware.
  • Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes.
  • Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
  • While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Needing to replace pads is one thing, but rotors is not only more expensive, it is a sign of mistreatment. Look for dents or damage to the rim while you are down there. Check to see the brake lines aren't leaking and unkinked, and that the brake fluid (and all fluids on the bike in fact) are at the right levels.
  • Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.
  • If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away. Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
  • While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, walk away.
  • Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter ).
  • Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
  • Is the paint, plastic or chrome scratched, dented or rusty? Does it look like the owner has ever washed or waxed the motorcycle? If the owner hasn’t taken care of the outside, it’s a good bet he hasn’t taken very good care of the inside.
  • Then, look for missing parts such as side covers or tire valve stem caps. In addition, looking at the fasteners on the bike will give you a good idea of the mechanical skills and know how of the owner. Look specifically for rounded off or, even worse, missing fasteners such as cotter pins. If there are modifications, are they professional looking or are you seeing duct tape and zip ties all over the place?
  • Ask to see the place the bike is stored looking for obvious signs of fluid leaks and other potential issues. Seeing a clean, dry, safe place and a bike cover are signs that the owner has taken care of his motorcycle.
  • Ask about what oil he uses, and how often he changes it. Ask about the last time the valves were inspected. Look up the maintenance schedule for the bike and know what the answers should be before he gives you his answers. If he isn't sure, then assume that the bike hasn't had regular maintenance. With 23k miles on the engine, walk away.
  • Be aware of how long it takes the bike to warm up. Extremely delayed warming could be a sign of issues to come. Also could be a sign of a lean condition that is bad for an engine in the long term. This could be worrying for a bike with 23k miles on it. Make sure the bike idles at a low, steady rpm and doesn’t make any funny sounds.
  • Check the clutch. Pull the lever in and release it. The action should be smooth and free of binding. Shift the bike into first. Shifting should be even and the gears should click into place. Make sure the bike rolls as if in neutral with the clutch pulled in. You can slowly let the clutch out and feel for the friction zone to make sure the clutch is engaging properly. When the clutch engages, it should not be an abrupt jolt.
  • With the exhaust cool, wipe your finger on the inside of the exhaust. If your finger comes out clean, particularly on a long warm up to start, you probably have a bike that has run too lean. This could create engine wear problem and decrease life of already high mileage engine.
  • Is there an aftermarket exhaust? If so, did the owner also adjust the carb/injection? If not? Lean . . . engine wear . . . bad at 23k miles.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 11:36 PM   #9
as10o5
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Going to look at a bike tomorrow.

Hello, everyone.

Greetings from San Diego, CA. Weather is awful with "May Grey" overcasts but I hope it will clear by the time I get a bike.

I am new to this forum and definitely interested in the Ninja 250s as my first. I haven't ridden a bike in what feels like a long time.

I am checking out a bike tomorrow and the guide up at the top of this thread is truly helpful. Unfortunately, I don't have a friend available to come check out the bike with me so I guess I have to look around on my own. Any last minute tips can give me would be greatly appreciated. I don't have the cash at hand at this time so I won't be able to ride it but I can take a look at the maintenance records and hopefully I can see it's on track [or as close to it as I think it should be].

A couple of questions:

- If I were to purchase this bike, would I ask to meet him at the DMV to change ownership of the title, register the bike, and all that? How does it all work after we agree on a deal? Do we sign a bill of sale or something like that?

- I've also asked my credit union for a loan (I got approved). Most likely I'll pay it off before the maturity date (no penalty). Do they turn that into a cashier's check or...?

Any more insight before I go, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
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Old August 18th, 2014, 11:54 PM   #10
Waldo1
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A couple of things my buddy (who buys lots of bike) turned me on to

GET THE VIN #
* You can decode the VIN here to make sure the bike is truly the year, make and model advertised: http://www.decodethis.com/ (this is also a great link to verify the VIN is correct prior to entering in NICB)

* Check to see if it is STOLEN or SALVAGE here: https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck

(there are a lot of road worthy salvage bikes out there. It is always good to check if the "clean title" is actually a clean title. Also note, if you enter a WRONG VIN, NICB will not tell you the VIN incorrect, it will come back with two "green" statements telling you no theft or salvage history was found. To minimize error, enter the vin in the decoder above and then COPY from the decoder page and paste into NICB.)

* CALL THE DMV! Call the DMV in whatever state the bike is registered in and ask if there are any brands on the title, any lien holders and also VERIFY the registered owner is the individual you are purchasing the bike from. If there is a lien holder listed, make sure the lien holder has SIGNED THE TITLE releasing the lien or the seller has a lien release paper from the bank.


A couple days ago I was looking at purchasing a bike. The seller bought the bike brand new, claimed was a clean and clear title, never been wrecked etc. I ran the VIN on NICB and it came back salvage. I asked the seller, why is it salvage? He maintained never wrecked, clean title, not sure why it would say that and provided a picture of a CLEAN AND CLEAR TITLE. I then called the DMV, they confirmed the title was to be branded as soon as it was transferred. (NOTE: A bike can be SALVAGED, insurance pays the bike off, sends the brand note to the DMV but the title will not show the brand until the owner brings the original title in or it is transferred). I did a little more research and found where the seller had posted his WRECK WRITE UP on a forum and also showed pictures of the wreck on his Facebook page!!!

Again, BUYER BEWARE!! There are a lot of great deals out there, just make sure you do your homework so there aren't any surprises AFTER you spend your hard earned money.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 11:34 AM   #11
spent_too_much
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Thanks for this information. The VIN check link has been updated:

https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck

I received a 404 error with the other one posted.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 11:49 AM   #12
Alex
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I fixed the link.
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