Don’t wait until yours snaps: when to replace that chain?

[Motofool]

"The toughness of a chain is often expressed in terms of tensile strength. But tensile strength is really only one component of a much more important characteristic—fatigue resistance."

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...ace_the_chain/

"If the sealing ring breaks, the grease leaks out and that particular joint heats up, dries out, and becomes contaminated with water and rust, elongating the pin-to-bushing fit (Chains don’t actually stretch; their internal clearances just get bigger). This puts more load on the adjacent joints, and on the sprocket teeth. Sealing rings rarely break, but if they do, you should consider your chain toast; it’s time for a new one.

The grease behind the sealing ring is meant to last the life of the chain, but you still need to lubricate the chain rollers, which contact the sprocket teeth, and the sealing rings themselves, which can otherwise dry out and crack. Apply lube into the tiny gap on either side of the roller so it penetrates into the space between the roller and the outside of the bushing, then hit the sealing rings on either side of the chain. Do this when the chain is warm so the lube penetrates under the rollers thoroughly and spreads over the sealing rings. Wipe off the excess lube to keep dirt and grit from sticking to the chain. The chain should feel slightly oily to the touch, but not wet."

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...n_maintenance/

[NathanUc]

Nice article. Chains are relatively cheap, so replacing early is never a bad option. The BEST option is just do your chain maintenance often and correctly. It pains me to see so many rusted chains around my area...

Also, I recently got a GreaseNinja. It's pretty cool and does a great job lubing the correct sections of the chain. I'll still go and manually add a bead here and there, but well worth the $10 I paid.

[Motofool]

Very ingenious device !!!



I do something similar, but only use ATF.

[Joshorilla]

The best option is a scottoiler, your chain is kept in its optimum state 100% of the time.

[Lychee]

Originally Posted by NathanUc

Nice article. Chains are relatively cheap, so replacing early is never a bad option. The BEST option is just do your chain maintenance often and correctly. It pains me to see so many rusted chains around my area...

Also, I recently got a GreaseNinja. It's pretty cool and does a great job lubing the correct sections of the chain. I'll still go and manually add a bead here and there, but well worth the $10 I paid.

Wow man. That is awesome. Website says 15, where did you get it for 10?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

The best option is a scottoiler, your chain is kept in its optimum state 100% of the time.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/scottoiler/

[ChaoSS]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Very ingenious device !!!



I do something similar, but only use ATF.

I've been meaning to ask if anyone uses ATF, as it seems to be good at keeping seals in good shape.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

I've been meaning to ask if anyone uses ATF, as it seems to be good at keeping seals in good shape.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...7&postcount=16

http://www.motorcycle.com/products/a...ains-3524.html

"The only reason for chain wear is the loss of lubricant...............Chain grease is not so efficient. It cannot get into the tight clearances between moving parts and the most good it can ever do is keep the chain's side plates from rusting in the winter."

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...le_chain_lube/

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795246

The main advantage is that dirt does not stick to it (hence, no abrasive effect on the sprockets) and it flows nicely around the O-rings and underneath the roller while the chain is warm, staying there for over 250 miles.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abrasive

The chain remains clean and the O-rings look moist at all times.
I mix any ATF with 10% of heavy gear oil, as I ride in the rain frequently.

After the first trip, I easily wipe any excess that has landed on the left side of the rear tire.

Applying that mix after each tank fill up, I have put 20K miles on that chain and it has not stretched a fraction of a mm yet. Sprockets look new as well.

[NathanUc]

@Motofool I've heard that ATF stanks in the heat. Confirm or deny?

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

The best option is a scottoiler, your chain is kept in its optimum state 100% of the time.

My only concern with the scottoiler is keeping the chain clean. Wouldn't you still need to degrease and wipe the chain down every 200miles or so anyways? I'd assume the chain would still get just as dirty as without the device.

Originally Posted by Lychee

Wow man. That is awesome. Website says 15, where did you get it for 10?

The local shop in my town sells them for $10 when you purchase some degreaser or chain lube.

[Joshorilla]

No, with the scottoiler you don't have to do anything, the oil is low tack, meaning it isn't sticky, so any debris doesn't collect but rather gets flung off the chain under the forces, when it rains that will also take away all the debris off the chain, my chain looks shiney and new 100% of the time, it's a well tried and tested proven product.

TLDR: The chain doesn't get dirty, you need to do nothing but top the reservoir up every 1000 miles or so.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by NathanUc

@Motofool I've heard that ATF stanks in the heat. Confirm or deny?

Nathan, consider that I live and ride in the eternal summer (80~90 F) of sandy Florida.

Heat doesn't have any influence on the automatic transmission fluid staying on the O-rings; strong rain, however, tends to wash it off (not completely), reason for which I mix it with some gear lubricant SAE 80W-90 (~10% before applying it to each O-ring and roller), having had good results.

In summary, never a problem with heat.
As a matter of fact, a moist and clean (ATF has a high detergent capability) chain stays cooler (transmission of HPs' always generate heat that needs to be carried away (via oil-air) from metal parts like clutch, tranny, bearings, chain and sprockets).

Regular and persistent application of a lubricant, which is fluid enough to go and stay flexible between the O-rings and the side of the plates, is the key for longevity and performance (212 dry O-rings quickly rotating against dry steel can lose the sealing effect and eat some HPs').

Right after or during a long trip (while the chain is warm) I apply the ATF+gear lubricant mix to the O-rings and rollers with a dropper (more precise but labor intense), with a spray bottle or with a dental brush; however, I try to re-apply never after 200~250 miles.

I am probably wrong since I have not tried any, but my problem with automatic lubers is their inherent inaccuracy regarding the points of application and supplied volume (too little may quickly trash the chain - too much may trash your bike with a quick low side).

[KawiKid860]

Scottoilers are kind of spendy too. I mean, you could buy a looot of chain lube with that money, or just pat yourself on the back for saving $130+ and not be a lazy ass.

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Scottoilers are kind of spendy too. I mean, you could buy a looot of chain lube with that money, or just pat yourself on the back for saving $130+ and not be a lazy ass.

Coupled with the fact that you have to use their proprietary chain lube, this is why I don't own one. I don't doubt their usefulness, though. Just not my thing.

[ChaoSS]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Scottoilers are kind of spendy too. I mean, you could buy a looot of chain lube with that money, or just pat yourself on the back for saving $130+ and not be a lazy ass.

I'm doing about 45 miles a day for my commute right now, so I can fuel up and lube my chain once a week and be ok. A few months ago, though, I was pushing 150 miles every day, so every other day on the lube was pushing it and I was going a week or more sometimes. Now I'm at almost 15000 miles and have a chain that needs to be replaced soon. Seeing as how the cost of the oiler is about the same as the chain and sprockets, it's not that big an investment.

I don't want one right now, but if I was still doing 750 miles a week, yeah, I'd be buying one right now to put on with the new chain and sprocket set.

[NathanUc]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

No, with the scottoiler you don't have to do anything, the oil is low tack, meaning it isn't sticky, so any debris doesn't collect but rather gets flung off the chain under the forces, when it rains that will also take away all the debris off the chain, my chain looks shiney and new 100% of the time, it's a well tried and tested proven product.

TLDR: The chain doesn't get dirty, you need to do nothing but top the reservoir up every 1000 miles or so.

I've heard, (and know from EXP) that nearly all the chain lubes I've bought/tried said they weren't going to stick... and every couple weeks when I went to clean the chain they were full of black junk (that might be something else, I'm no expert).

I'd like one for the simplicity of them, but (and I know it's silly) I'm not sure I can trust it not to accidentally dump too much lube before a big turn and cause a low-slide due to lube on the wheels. I just know that there is 0% of this happening when I do it myself. I think it would always be in the back of my mind.

Originally Posted by Motofool

Nathan, consider that I live and ride in the eternal summer (80~90 F) of sandy Florida.

Heat doesn't have any influence on the automatic transmission fluid staying on the O-rings; strong rain, however, tends to wash it off (not completely), reason for which I mix it with some gear lubricant SAE 80W-90 (~10% before applying it to each O-ring and roller), having had good results.

In summary, never a problem with heat.
As a matter of fact, a moist and clean (ATF has a high detergent capability) chain stays cooler (transmission of HPs' always generate heat that needs to be carried away (via oil-air) from metal parts like clutch, tranny, bearings, chain and sprockets).

Regular and persistent application of a lubricant, which is fluid enough to go and stay flexible between the O-rings and the side of the plates, is the key for longevity and performance (212 dry O-rings quickly rotating against dry steel can lose the sealing effect and eat some HPs').

Right after or during a long trip (while the chain is warm) I apply the ATF+gear lubricant mix to the O-rings and rollers with a dropper (more precise but labor intense), with a spray bottle or with a dental brush; however, I try to re-apply never after 200~250 miles.

I am probably wrong since I have not tried any, but my problem with automatic lubers is their inherent inaccuracy regarding the points of application and supplied volume (too little may quickly trash the chain - too much may trash your bike with a quick low side).

Makes sense, thanks for that informed post (as always). I think I might give this mixture a shot next week when I'm due for a lube.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by NathanUc

.............Makes sense, thanks for that informed post (as always). I think I might give this mixture a shot next week when I'm due for a lube.

You may want to eliminate most of the old lube before trying this, just in case you get some goo or some bad reaction (tip for cleaning: kerosene dissolves wax).

When my chain gets really dirty with road mud, I use a vinyl glove+rag soaked with ATF to clean the entire chain before a new application (always rotate the wheel backwards since that rear sprocket likes biting fingers = no good at all !!!).

A couple of times, at the time of servicing the swingarm (when I can remove the chain from the frame), I have used kerosene and a tooth brush for deep cleaning, but that can get messy.

You are welcome

[Bill N]

Originally Posted by Motofool

You may want to eliminate most of the old lube before trying this, just in case you get some goo or some bad reaction (tip for cleaning: kerosene dissolves wax).

When my chain gets really dirty with road mud, I use a vinyl glove+rag soaked with ATF to clean the entire chain before a new application (always rotate the wheel backwards since that rear sprocket likes biting fingers = no good at all !!!).

A couple of times, at the time of servicing the swingarm (when I can remove the chain from the frame), I have used kerosene and a tooth brush for deep cleaning, but that can get messy.

You are welcome

Good advice, but for a newbee if you're using your hand with a glove or holding a rag, while turning the wheel backwards go slow, don't spin the wheel, don't let something catch and take your hand into the front sprocket. It can be pretty ugly if you're not careful...Bill

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by NathanUc

Nice article. Chains are relatively cheap, so replacing early is never a bad option. The BEST option is just do your chain maintenance often and correctly. It pains me to see so many rusted chains around my area...

Also, I recently got a GreaseNinja. It's pretty cool and does a great job lubing the correct sections of the chain. I'll still go and manually add a bead here and there, but well worth the $10 I paid.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

[Motofool]

Link to original page on YouTube.

[NevadaWolf]

I've now had the "joy" of experiencing a sudden loss of my chain. On the Honda vs the Ninja, but still.

It was a dirt bike chain, so non o-ring. We lubed it up upon installation and again when I got home 200 miles later. However, after 400 miles total of interstate speeds (200 miles non stop legs each), the chain threw the master link and was spit out the back of the bike. My friend who was behind me descibes it as a "sparking snake suddenly coming after me". No damage to the bike, a guide on the inside of the front sprocket cover kept the chain away from the engine and helped it exit the rear, and bonus no damage to me.

I had pulled out onto the highway and was just getting into four or fifth gear when my revs just spiked and I started slowing down. I heard the "pop" just before the revs jumped so knew something was wrong. Coasted to a stop just off the road and discovered the problem.

[RacinNinja]

An old trick for clip style master links is to use RTV silicone on them after install. Thoroughly clean with Brakleen or other solvent, dry, and apply!

[Alex]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

It was a dirt bike chain, so non o-ring.

Are you still running a non o-ring on the bike? I understand that you like to go off the beaten path, but a non o-ring chain on a long-distance bike seems like it might have some unintended consequences.

[NevadaWolf]

Originally Posted by Alex

Are you still running a non o-ring on the bike? I understand that you like to go off the beaten path, but a non o-ring chain on a long-distance bike seems like it might have some unintended consequences.

Nope. Hitched a ride to Vegas and bought a good o-ring chain from CycleGear along with a chain tool to rivet the bugger in place.

I hate clips, they always fall off for me (and I'm too lazy to bother safety wiring them.)

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

An old trick for clip style master links is to use RTV silicone on them after install. Thoroughly clean with Brakleen or other solvent, dry, and apply!

fyi, that will no longer pass tech at some tracks for A group. Great quick fix, but fading out.