ignition removal problem

blegerton · November 9th, 2013, 06:29 PM

I have a 2008 model that I have removed the ignition from and am planning on running off of the kill switch. I have wired up the blue, orange/green, red, and brown wire together. I have wired up the white/black, and grey wire with a 100 ohm resistor and the other white wire, which is 12V from 30A fuse to the first leg of the right handlebar wire disconnect. I am getting spark and lights on my dash and the bike starts and runs. however when i turn the kill switch to the off position, the only thing that turns off is the dash and the bike continues to run. what am i doing wrong, I have been trying to find someone who has done this and can provide me with a step by step on what wires go where and what I am doing wrong. any ideas.

bruce71198 · November 11th, 2013, 12:30 PM

The white/black wire is a power supply and will need to be switched as well.
Is this a track bike?

bruce71198 · November 11th, 2013, 12:41 PM

Your ignition switch powers up the fuse box including the power feed to the handlebar switch. The handle bar switch turns the coils on and off. The ignition switch turns the ignitor on and off. Your going to need a toggle switch in place of the ignition switch unless you want to build or rebuild the whole harness.

sierrahotel · November 11th, 2013, 01:43 PM

Or do it the clean way and add a relay to power the ignition circuit, which is turned on with the handlebar switch. 1 switch to run the whole bike.

Unfortunately, I never wrote down how I wired it and can't remember now. I've actually been meaning on trying to document how I did it but its low priority.

iZapp · November 11th, 2013, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blegerton

I have a 2008 model that I have removed the ignition from and am planning on running off of the kill switch. I have wired up the blue, orange/green, red, and brown wire together. I have wired up the white/black, and grey wire with a 100 ohm resistor and the other white wire, which is 12V from 30A fuse to the first leg of the right handlebar wire disconnect. I am getting spark and lights on my dash and the bike starts and runs. however when i turn the kill switch to the off position, the only thing that turns off is the dash and the bike continues to run. what am i doing wrong, I have been trying to find someone who has done this and can provide me with a step by step on what wires go where and what I am doing wrong. any ideas.

thats pretty ballsy to do without a wire diagram, or reverse engineering with an ohmeter (and create your own diagram). you're either real lucky or a wiring savant to have gotten that far.

blegerton · November 11th, 2013, 06:10 PM

the bike is a dedicated track bike and I want to run the entire bike off of the handlebar switch. I do not know what type of relay I need or how to wire everything into it. I really do not want to run a toggle switch as that is kind of the reason I am removing the ignition in the first place. if any one can help me out with this please I am all ears.

sierrahotel · November 11th, 2013, 06:18 PM

Well, I believe (someone will argue that I'm wrong) that you should run a relay to run the ignition system if all you have is the dinky little handlebar switch. You just use that switch to send 12V to the relay in addition to the wires that it powers. Then wire the relay to send 12V to the rest of the wires that you chopped off the ignition switch.

That's the concept, but the devil is in the details. You should fuse that relay or put it in series with the output of the ign fuse. And there's that 100ohm resistor somewhere in the ignition system.

Grab a multimeter and the wiring diagram and have fun!

blegerton · November 14th, 2013, 05:33 PM

well, I have decided to run the bike off of toggle switches, I am looking to get this bike done quick and cheap and with all the work involved with adding relays and trying to figure out the wiring diagram, just running off of a switch is just plain easier. I am a welder so I am not that smart, I can read blueprints but wiring diagrams are a big push for me to try and figure out. thanks anyway for the feedback and I do have to ask are there any specific ways I would have to wire the bike to run off of a switch, how many toggle switches and how have you guys wired them? thanks again for your help.

Klondike1020 · November 14th, 2013, 10:15 PM

Have you removed your side stand safety switch, head lights, signals and other unnecessary items?

the ninja 250 site has a good ignition diagram with a brief explanation.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ignition_circuit_schematic

Did you apply the 12V to the wrong side of the switch?
Some how it is either feeding back or otherwise keeping the coils energized.

cuong-nutz · November 15th, 2013, 10:21 AM

All I have is jumpers on mine. works with no issues.

White + switch + black/grey(100 ohm)

bruce71198 · November 15th, 2013, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klondike1020

Have you removed your side stand safety switch, head lights, signals and other unnecessary items?

the ninja 250 site has a good ignition diagram with a brief explanation.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ignition_circuit_schematic

Did you apply the 12V to the wrong side of the switch?
Some how it is either feeding back or otherwise keeping the coils energized.

Keep in mind This link is for the 07 and older 250

bruce71198 · November 15th, 2013, 11:41 AM

Lets see if I can do this without to much confusion. First off, Kawasaki has a tendency to use different color wires on each side of a given plug in the harness. So I will give you the color at each component such as the ignition swtch. Here goes, white and white/black are 12v into the switch, hook these two wires together and plug them onto the first terminal of your toggle switch. The brown wire is 12v out of the ignition switch and powers up the fuse box when you "key on". The grey wire is power out of the switch and powers up the igniter. These are the only 12v out wires you need for the "track only" harness, the other wires are for lighting, tape them up so the ends don't cross or ground. So the other terminal coming off your toggle should have the brown wire and the 100ohm resistor with your grey wire on the other end of the resistor. Leave the handle bar switch hooked up and all should be well.

blegerton · November 24th, 2013, 06:51 PM

sorry i haven't been on in a while, I will try and hook up the switch and let everyone know how it goes, thanks again for all the help. I did remove all the lights and side stand wires and everything that does not need to be used as far back into the harness as I could or felt comfortable going. the only thing I need to do is find a switch that I would like to use and order it and then hook everything as you all described. this might take me a while, the holidays are coming up and things get pretty busy this time of year so I might not get to it very quickly.

sierrahotel · November 24th, 2013, 07:33 PM

You should be able to find something like this
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4657
at just about any automotive parts store

bruce71198 · November 24th, 2013, 09:16 PM

Radio shack

DCMoney · December 10th, 2013, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Lets see if I can do this without to much confusion. First off, Kawasaki has a tendency to use different color wires on each side of a given plug in the harness. So I will give you the color at each component such as the ignition swtch. Here goes, white and white/black are 12v into the switch, hook these two wires together and plug them onto the first terminal of your toggle switch. The brown wire is 12v out of the ignition switch and powers up the fuse box when you "key on". The grey wire is power out of the switch and powers up the igniter. These are the only 12v out wires you need for the "track only" harness, the other wires are for lighting, tape them up so the ends don't cross or ground. So the other terminal coming off your toggle should have the brown wire and the 100ohm resistor with your grey wire on the other end of the resistor. Leave the handle bar switch hooked up and all should be well.

I went off of this post and it all checks out and works like it should. If you want a separate switch.

Here's a diagram to help.

RacerX113 · January 10th, 2014, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCMoney

I went off of this post and it all checks out and works like it should. If you want a separate switch.

Here's a diagram to help.

This is great info.

I'm planning to remove my key ignition this weekend. Just one question... The switch of your choice in the diagram can be the stock On/Off switch on the handlebar....correct?

DCMoney · January 10th, 2014, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacerX113

This is great info.

I'm planning to remove my key ignition this weekend. Just one question... The switch of your choice in the diagram can be the stock On/Off switch on the handlebar....correct?

Yes it can be the stock switch.

Also you don't have to use 12 gauge wire.

bruce71198 · January 13th, 2014, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCMoney

Yes it can be the stock switch.

Also you don't have to use 12 gauge wire.

I don't know if the handlebar switch will tolerate the added current if you add those extra circuits to it. It will most likely work at first and if the amperage takes its toll on the switch it will eventually fail.

RacerX113 · January 14th, 2014, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruce71198

I don't know if the handlebar switch will tolerate the added current if you add those extra circuits to it. It will most likely work at first and if the amperage takes its toll on the switch it will eventually fail.

Bruce
Even though the only items power is going to are the gauge cluster lights, you think that is to to much amperage for the kill switch?

Where/how did you mount the ignition toggle switch? I don't want to inadvertently hit that toggle when I'm racing.

Thanks Doug

bruce71198 · January 14th, 2014, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacerX113

Bruce
Even though the only items power is going to are the gauge cluster lights, you think that is to to much amperage for the kill switch?

Where/how did you mount the ignition toggle switch? I don't want to inadvertently hit that toggle when I'm racing.

Thanks Doug

The ignition switch basically powers up the bikes electrical system including the handlebar switch which turns power on and off to the coils. My thoughts are that the handle bar switch was engineered to handle the amp requirements of the coils and maybe a little extra. If the switch overheats from to much amperage it may take some time to fail. In my experience, this usually happens at the most in opportune time , like when I'm griding up for a race.

csmith12 · January 15th, 2014, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruce71198

this usually happens at the most in opportune time , like when I'm griding up for a race.

RacerX113 · January 15th, 2014, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

That is a very good point though...I'll will most likely be adding the seperate toggle switch.

bruce71198 · January 16th, 2014, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

So, you've seen me at the track....

RacerX113 · January 27th, 2014, 08:03 PM

So the toggle switch I picked up has 3 terminals. I'm assuming the middle is power in (white and black stripe-white wire). One of the outside terminal would be for the power out wires ( grey and brown and resister.). The other outside terminal would be for a ground. My question is does the ground need to be hooked up or can it be left empty. Or should I just get a 2 terminal toggle switch.

bruce71198 · January 28th, 2014, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacerX113

So the toggle switch I picked up has 3 terminals. I'm assuming the middle is power in (white and black stripe-white wire). One of the outside terminal would be for the power out wires ( grey and brown and resister.). The other outside terminal would be for a ground. My question is does the ground need to be hooked up or can it be left empty. Or should I just get a 2 terminal toggle switch.

Is it a 2 position switch or a 3? Lighted?

DCMoney · January 28th, 2014, 06:33 AM

+1 to what Bruce said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacerX113

So the toggle switch I picked up has 3 terminals. I'm assuming the middle is power in (white and black stripe-white wire). One of the outside terminal would be for the power out wires ( grey and brown and resister.). The other outside terminal would be for a ground. My question is does the ground need to be hooked up or can it be left empty. Or should I just get a 2 terminal toggle switch.

Don't assume, check the bag the switch came in usually there's a wire diagram on it.

Or you can use a multimeter set to ohms, clamp on to one terminal touch one of the others and see if there's an open contact when toggling between the positions on the switch. If no open contact go to next terminal and keep repeating till you find the two that make an open contact. Those are your power in terminals.

The 3 terminal switches I have are lighted and one terminal is for a ground to light up the switch.

RacerX113 · January 28th, 2014, 07:04 PM

Just went back and picked up a 2 terminal toggle switched. Wired it up per Bruce's diagram. Everything checks good.

November 9th, 2013, 06:29 PM	#1
blegerton ninjette.org newbie Name: robert Location: orlando,fl Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): ninja 250 2008 Posts: 9	ignition removal problem I have a 2008 model that I have removed the ignition from and am planning on running off of the kill switch. I have wired up the blue, orange/green, red, and brown wire together. I have wired up the white/black, and grey wire with a 100 ohm resistor and the other white wire, which is 12V from 30A fuse to the first leg of the right handlebar wire disconnect. I am getting spark and lights on my dash and the bike starts and runs. however when i turn the kill switch to the off position, the only thing that turns off is the dash and the bike continues to run. what am i doing wrong, I have been trying to find someone who has done this and can provide me with a step by step on what wires go where and what I am doing wrong. any ideas.

November 15th, 2013, 10:21 AM	#10
cuong-nutz RIP Alex Name: Cuong Location: Houston, TX Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 2	All I have is jumpers on mine. works with no issues. White + switch + black/grey(100 ohm) __________________________________________________ HalfFast Racing Team Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days

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November 11th, 2013, 12:30 PM	#2
bruce71198 ninjette.org sage Name: bruce Location: northern illinois Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Race bikes:08 Ninja 250,11 R6,16 ZX6,SV650.3 HD-1947,2-2003,2010. 1946 Indian and a lot of dirt bikes.2 Posts: 999	The white/black wire is a power supply and will need to be switched as well. Is this a track bike?

November 11th, 2013, 12:41 PM	#3
bruce71198 ninjette.org sage Name: bruce Location: northern illinois Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Race bikes:08 Ninja 250,11 R6,16 ZX6,SV650.3 HD-1947,2-2003,2010. 1946 Indian and a lot of dirt bikes.2 Posts: 999	Your ignition switch powers up the fuse box including the power feed to the handlebar switch. The handle bar switch turns the coils on and off. The ignition switch turns the ignitor on and off. Your going to need a toggle switch in place of the ignition switch unless you want to build or rebuild the whole harness.

November 11th, 2013, 01:43 PM	#4
sierrahotel CVMA #92 Name: Bryan Location: socal Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): harleys Posts: 242	Or do it the clean way and add a relay to power the ignition circuit, which is turned on with the handlebar switch. 1 switch to run the whole bike. Unfortunately, I never wrote down how I wired it and can't remember now. I've actually been meaning on trying to document how I did it but its low priority.

November 11th, 2013, 06:10 PM	#6
blegerton ninjette.org newbie Name: robert Location: orlando,fl Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): ninja 250 2008 Posts: 9	the bike is a dedicated track bike and I want to run the entire bike off of the handlebar switch. I do not know what type of relay I need or how to wire everything into it. I really do not want to run a toggle switch as that is kind of the reason I am removing the ignition in the first place. if any one can help me out with this please I am all ears.

November 11th, 2013, 06:18 PM	#7
sierrahotel CVMA #92 Name: Bryan Location: socal Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): harleys Posts: 242	Well, I believe (someone will argue that I'm wrong) that you should run a relay to run the ignition system if all you have is the dinky little handlebar switch. You just use that switch to send 12V to the relay in addition to the wires that it powers. Then wire the relay to send 12V to the rest of the wires that you chopped off the ignition switch. That's the concept, but the devil is in the details. You should fuse that relay or put it in series with the output of the ign fuse. And there's that 100ohm resistor somewhere in the ignition system. Grab a multimeter and the wiring diagram and have fun!

November 14th, 2013, 05:33 PM	#8
blegerton ninjette.org newbie Name: robert Location: orlando,fl Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): ninja 250 2008 Posts: 9	well, I have decided to run the bike off of toggle switches, I am looking to get this bike done quick and cheap and with all the work involved with adding relays and trying to figure out the wiring diagram, just running off of a switch is just plain easier. I am a welder so I am not that smart, I can read blueprints but wiring diagrams are a big push for me to try and figure out. thanks anyway for the feedback and I do have to ask are there any specific ways I would have to wire the bike to run off of a switch, how many toggle switches and how have you guys wired them? thanks again for your help.

November 14th, 2013, 10:15 PM	#9
Klondike1020 Intrepid Adventurer Name: Josh Location: Rochester/Buffalo NY Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2004 GSXR 750 , 71 cb350streettracker, 07 Polaris Predator 500 Posts: A lot.	Have you removed your side stand safety switch, head lights, signals and other unnecessary items? the ninja 250 site has a good ignition diagram with a brief explanation. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ignition_circuit_schematic Did you apply the 12V to the wrong side of the switch? Some how it is either feeding back or otherwise keeping the coils energized.

November 15th, 2013, 11:41 AM	#12
bruce71198 ninjette.org sage Name: bruce Location: northern illinois Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Race bikes:08 Ninja 250,11 R6,16 ZX6,SV650.3 HD-1947,2-2003,2010. 1946 Indian and a lot of dirt bikes.2 Posts: 999	Lets see if I can do this without to much confusion. First off, Kawasaki has a tendency to use different color wires on each side of a given plug in the harness. So I will give you the color at each component such as the ignition swtch. Here goes, white and white/black are 12v into the switch, hook these two wires together and plug them onto the first terminal of your toggle switch. The brown wire is 12v out of the ignition switch and powers up the fuse box when you "key on". The grey wire is power out of the switch and powers up the igniter. These are the only 12v out wires you need for the "track only" harness, the other wires are for lighting, tape them up so the ends don't cross or ground. So the other terminal coming off your toggle should have the brown wire and the 100ohm resistor with your grey wire on the other end of the resistor. Leave the handle bar switch hooked up and all should be well.

November 24th, 2013, 06:51 PM	#13
blegerton ninjette.org newbie Name: robert Location: orlando,fl Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): ninja 250 2008 Posts: 9	sorry i haven't been on in a while, I will try and hook up the switch and let everyone know how it goes, thanks again for all the help. I did remove all the lights and side stand wires and everything that does not need to be used as far back into the harness as I could or felt comfortable going. the only thing I need to do is find a switch that I would like to use and order it and then hook everything as you all described. this might take me a while, the holidays are coming up and things get pretty busy this time of year so I might not get to it very quickly.

November 24th, 2013, 07:33 PM	#14
sierrahotel CVMA #92 Name: Bryan Location: socal Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): harleys Posts: 242	You should be able to find something like this https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4657 at just about any automotive parts store

November 24th, 2013, 09:16 PM	#15
bruce71198 ninjette.org sage Name: bruce Location: northern illinois Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Race bikes:08 Ninja 250,11 R6,16 ZX6,SV650.3 HD-1947,2-2003,2010. 1946 Indian and a lot of dirt bikes.2 Posts: 999	Radio shack

January 27th, 2014, 08:03 PM	#25
RacerX113 ninjette.org member Name: Doug Location: Atlanta Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Thruxton, Ninja 250 Posts: 148	So the toggle switch I picked up has 3 terminals. I'm assuming the middle is power in (white and black stripe-white wire). One of the outside terminal would be for the power out wires ( grey and brown and resister.). The other outside terminal would be for a ground. My question is does the ground need to be hooked up or can it be left empty. Or should I just get a 2 terminal toggle switch.