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Old May 21st, 2014, 09:08 PM   #1
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Clicking, and Squeaking noise.

So. My engine is squeaking, clicking/ticking, and will only rev to like 5000 RPM, and it is scary when you rev it. I did my best to adjust the valves, it is better than it was before, it was only revving to 3000 RPM, is it still the valves or what? The bike only has 1500 Miles on it.
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Old May 21st, 2014, 09:29 PM   #2
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That is not a good sign at all. Is the cam chain tensioner functioning properly? I find it hard to believe that your valves need adjustment with that low of mileage. You wouldn't happen to have a video or sound of it running?
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Old May 21st, 2014, 09:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
That is not a good sign at all. Is the cam chain tensioner functioning properly? I find it hard to believe that your valves need adjustment with that low of mileage. You wouldn't happen to have a video or sound of it running?
Well. I don't have a video. But I'll get you one. I didn't check the tensioner, I don't even know where it is. What does the noise mean?
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 03:59 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Gavin_Coffey View Post
So. My engine is squeaking, clicking/ticking, and will only rev to like 5000 RPM, and it is scary when you rev it. I did my best to adjust the valves, it is better than it was before, it was only revving to 3000 RPM, is it still the valves or what? The bike only has 1500 Miles on it.
You may want to post up a video or sound byte. Your problem could something as simple as bad gas or more complex like rod bearings. More info about your bike may help. From a first glance, I'm going with a incorrect valve adjustment. How did the bike run prior?

It may also help you to look at the Troubleshooting Guide to help determine what may be wrong with your bike.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:27 PM   #5
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Question

Before I post a video, I want you guys to read what the person who posted this (http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...ing-noise.html) said. I had all these things happen except coolant loss and my engine started ticking the next time I was able to run my engine. Oh and I did use sea-foam in the gas. I also run 10W-30 fully Synthetic.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:30 PM   #6
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it's kinda nice that you don't have to remove the cams or chain to adjust the pregen valve clearance
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:31 PM   #7
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btw it sounds like a blown crank journal bearing
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:32 PM   #8
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https://vimeo.com/m/96125693

Link to original page on Vimeo.

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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:33 PM   #9
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btw it sounds like a blown crank journal bearing
What? That's ridiculous! IMHO.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:53 PM   #10
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Page not found

Sorry, there is no video here.
Either it was deleted or it never existed in the first place. Such are the mysteries of the Internet.
on your link
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:54 PM   #11
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Does it sound like this?

Link to original page on YouTube.

If so start looking for a new motor and give your bad one to Alex.s.

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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Does it sound like this?

Link to original page on YouTube.

If so start looking for a new motor and give your bad one to Alex.s.

that right there's a blown crank journal bearing
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:56 PM   #13
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Does it sound like this?

Link to original page on YouTube.

If so start looking for a new motor and give your bad one to Alex.s.

No. It sounds like a tapping.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:57 PM   #14
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No. It sounds like a tapping.
if you fix your video link, maybe we would be able to hear it and give you a better answer
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:57 PM   #15
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Give the video 20 minutes and you can play it.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 01:57 PM   #16
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also- why are you running 10/30 and not 10/40
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:00 PM   #17
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also- why are you running 10/30 and not 10/40
I run it in everything. And my father who is an A&P mechanic said I should run it
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:04 PM   #18
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the video works now.

i think you bent a valve
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:05 PM   #19
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you know, i'm still putting my money on a blown crank journal bearing
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:05 PM   #20
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the video works now.

i think you bent a valve
Wouldnt there be signs of that in the valve cover?
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:06 PM   #21
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yep. what does the inside look like? were all the valves going up and down all the way? seems pretty hard to tell without taking the cams off.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:08 PM   #22
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yep. what does the inside look like? were all the valves going up and down all the way? seems pretty hard to tell without taking the cams off.
I didn't start it with the cover off, but when I turned to move the valves to adjust them they all moved just fine.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:15 PM   #23
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how closely were you paying attention? i have missed the fact that a valve did not return completely all the way up before until taking a second look.

what is the chain spec at? is it stretched beyond recognition? could just be that the timing is so far off a piston is tapping a valve.

just so you know the difference... 30w runs 30cSt at 100c. 40 being 40cSt at 100c. you are talking about a quarter less viscous oil than what the crank was designed for. this means that it is much more likely that it will mar the plane bearing because the oil isn't providing enough suspension between the two parts. if you're easy on the engine maybe it doesn't make any difference. but if its already got issues or you are stressing the engine, you are taking away vital cushion between the crank and rod planes and the crank and case and you are putting play into those systems which means they will degrade quicker.

engines are spec'ed to a specific oil weight for a reason.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:15 PM   #24
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My guess is that his valve timing is off a tooth. Or bent valve.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:18 PM   #25
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Think maybe its the cam chain?
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:18 PM   #26
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you can check the condition of the cam chain by taking the cover off and measuring the distance between 20 links. there is a spec somewhere. i think its like 127mm or something
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:20 PM   #27
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how closely were you paying attention? i have missed the fact that a valve did not return completely all the way up before until taking a second look.

what is the chain spec at? is it stretched beyond recognition? could just be that the timing is so far off a piston is tapping a valve.

just so you know the difference... 30w runs 30cSt at 100c. 40 being 40cSt at 100c. you are talking about a quarter less viscous oil than what the crank was designed for. this means that it is much more likely that it will mar the plane bearing because the oil isn't providing enough suspension between the two parts. if you're easy on the engine maybe it doesn't make any difference. but if its already got issues or you are stressing the engine, you are taking away vital cushion between the crank and rod planes and the crank and case and you are putting play into those systems which means they will degrade quicker.

engines are spec'ed to a specific oil weight for a reason.
It only has about 50 miles on 10W-30
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:22 PM   #28
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i'm curious, was it running fine before you put 10w-30 in?
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:24 PM   #29
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btw if it was the chain hitting guides or just flopping it wouldn't be as consistent as it is. what you are hearing is the consistent tapping of the valves. you know its a valve and not a crank (now that i think about it more) because its at twice the rpm the normal firing sequence is running.
How can I see if the timing is right. And if its off how would I fix it. I'll probably take it to a mechanic though.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:24 PM   #30
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Cam chain spec here in this thread: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=104334
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:26 PM   #31
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i'm curious, was it running fine before you put 10w-30 in?
It was running fine with the 10W-30 until I broke down on the side of the road.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:26 PM   #32
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you can check timing by putting the engine to tdc2 (i always forget... it is 2 right? maybe its tdc1) and looking at the cam sprockets. they have marks that should line up with the head case edge. if you take off the top chain guide from off the cams, you can measure/pull on the cam chain which gives you a better idea of how stretched it is.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:27 PM   #33
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Top of the page in the tech section is a sticky of the how to-tos.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is...t_procedure%3F
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:27 PM   #34
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damn, i'm good at remembering numbers and absolutely nothing else.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:50 PM   #35
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btw it sounds like a blown crank journal bearing
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What? That's ridiculous! IMHO.
No, it's not. It's very possible. Your video sounds just like this one. Which BTW had a spun rod bearing.

Link to original page on YouTube.


If you want to rule the possibility out. Check your oil screen for brassy looking shavings.

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Old May 22nd, 2014, 03:17 PM   #36
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Well. I think it might of jumped time. If I move it to where the IN mark on the intake cam is, the EX mark on the exhaust can doesn't line up with the top of the head.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 03:26 PM   #37
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Is it off time? You can't even see the EX mark

And on a side note like my mod?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20140522_172254.jpg (57.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140522_172331.jpg (56.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140522_172339.jpg (52.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140522_172507.jpg (109.2 KB, 3 views)
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 03:36 PM   #38
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it doesn't look that far off.

maybe the chain is stretched a little bit but it looks like timing is reasonably close.

still could be a bent valve or a blown journal


like blue said, examine your oil screen
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 05:21 PM   #39
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Bearing it be. F**K!
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 05:22 PM   #40
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Its damn glitter.
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