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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:19 PM   #1
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1994 Tomos Sprint Moped

YEAH!

got it for $50.

it needs a rear brake cable, a carburetor, tank de-rusted (HOW, it's part of the actual frame...), possibly a top end so I may just go ahead and put the 70cc kit in there, ignition coil and probably the entire electrical system redone. I havent really gotten into it but I did get the motor to turn over freely after being locked when I purchased it. it came with a clean MD title. it has 10k miles on it. its a 2 stroke 50cc. cant wait to have some fun with this

thinking of painting the rims white and the spokes neon blue or something obnoxious

anyone know anything about rebuilding 2stroke motors and how to de-rust this motor?
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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:22 PM   #2
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If the rust is skin deep then sanding and repainting will do the trick

as for the motor, I can't really think of a way to get rid of rust in a motor
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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:24 PM   #3
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the rust is inside the tank. the tank is the hollow frame where it says 'tomos'

I have the acid etch and tank sealer but you need to be able to rotate and shake the tank and obviously I can't really do that when the whole moped is attached to it
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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:27 PM   #4
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the rust is inside the tank. the tank is the hollow frame where it says 'tomos'

I have the acid etch and tank sealer but you need to be able to rotate and shake the tank and obviously I can't really do that when the whole moped is attached to it
And why not?
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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:32 PM   #5
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Put your acid solution in the tank, put the bike in the bed of a small pickup, and get some folks to jump up and down on the rear bumper.. That acid will get where it needs to be
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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:33 PM   #6
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find and hire one of these guys to lift the whole thing

Link to original page on YouTube.

they'll treat it like bicep curls and thank you for giving them something to one up their buddies with

that pickup idea is actually a really good idea

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Old April 16th, 2015, 07:38 PM   #7
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Throw a kit

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Old April 16th, 2015, 08:47 PM   #8
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Damn, you keep finding these deals, I'm trying to find something like that, and the 650, and....lol
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Old April 16th, 2015, 08:48 PM   #9
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I believe the applicable term is "mechanic's special"
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Old April 16th, 2015, 08:52 PM   #10
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craigslist man. working at a shop really helps. not with finding the deals, but with being able to make them worth more than what I paid for them.
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Old April 16th, 2015, 09:08 PM   #11
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you might even just put a new tank on. as in, add a tank. obviously dont replace the frametank
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Old April 17th, 2015, 01:30 AM   #12
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that's sikk ahahahah..not a bad way to spend fitty bucks
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Old April 19th, 2015, 07:35 PM   #13
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no way part of why I love it is the frame tank haha

I tore it apart yesterday.

the cylinder looks good, I cleaned it up and put that crosshatching pattern back in there, still measures within spec for a stock piston, which I ordered brand new. crank and rod look useable but are rusty and I need to get that rust outta there somehow. someone suggested soaking the cylinder with either two stroke oil or diesel.

2nd gear (there are only 2) is missing a chunk of one tooth but should be fine, I'll file it down when I take the covers off again. I didn't look at the clutch but there weren't parts of metal lying around so it's probably fine (it's got a dual centrifugal clutch or something, kinda like a scooter but a wet clutch with auto transmission). the stator looks good and the wiring is intact for the ignition coil, which I had to order cause its missing one. I also had to order an intake manifold and reed valve and carburetor.

so now I have $215 in it total and I gotta go order a seal kit and gaskets for the side covers and wait til all the parts get in to see if it'll run.

if it runs, it needs a rear brake lever, cable, and shoes; front and rear wheel bearings; tubes and tires; de-rust the gas tank; not sure if any of the electrical parts work; needs turn signals installed (eh)

it'll be fuuuuuun
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Old April 20th, 2015, 04:32 AM   #14
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I remember a long time ago wanting a Tomas. I even went to the dealer to buy one. But I can't remember what happen and why I never bought one. They still have a special place in my heart.

This is the one I wanted.
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Old April 20th, 2015, 06:53 AM   #15
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Put your acid solution in the tank, put the bike in the bed of a small pickup, and get some folks to jump up and down on the rear bumper.. That acid will get where it needs to be
or simply take it for a spin around town in the truck.
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Old April 20th, 2015, 07:57 AM   #16
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targa!!!!

I figured out a few ways to acid etch the tank. it only holds 2 gallons max, so it shouldnt be too hard lol

parts on the way tehehe
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Old May 4th, 2015, 04:57 PM   #17
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Ive rebuilt, taken apart, destroyed, modified, vandalized, etc about enough of these to fill a swimming pool, so if you have any questions feel free to holler.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 05:18 PM   #18
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oh yeah so.. updates... I pulled the motor apart a little more, turns out I also need a piston bearing, both first and second gear clutches, a CDI box, 2nd gear has a few chunks missing from some teeth but look usable, might need a crank, rod bearing, may as well just to fully rebuild it. I'm having trouble finding some of these parts. and knowing if they will fit my A35 motor.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:05 PM   #19
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Fitting is easy, you have the a35 motor, so for most of the stuff you mention parts from an a35 or newer a55 will fit.

mopedjunkyard.com has good diagrams of all the stuff.

Sounds like it was beat to hell ... tracking down most of the stuff ain't to costly, the electrical stuff can be kinda of annoying to match up and buy because its sort of the one thing on these bikes that changed over production run, so it is a question of just finding the part that matches the rest of your charging system.

If you want to dive in, I could put you in contact with my bud who has a p decent horde of tomosities and might be able to get you parts you need, also we are in baltimore so it aint too far away.

shameless plug for treatland.tv best moped parts online, and awesome peoples, don't order from 1977mopeds because they are a hot mess
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:09 PM   #20
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thanks man, really appreciate it!! the hardest part is just finding what parts will fit in my motor. a lot of times people just put 'will fit tomos mopeds'... I'm actually currently trying to work out a deal with someone who listed the same bike on craigslist for $100, also not running but it has 700 miles on it instead of 10k so a lot less likely it's going to be as much of a catastrophe as mine, and if I get $100 worth of parts out of it it'll be worth it.

I ordered some parts from mopedjunkyard and mopeddivision. also myrons mopeds has a lot of info. if this parts bike doesnt work out and i cant find what I need I'll give you a holler for sure. I dont know why but I really want this thing to run and then I'll do the wheel bearings, brakes, tires, wiring, lights, turn signals -- I have a turn signal switch indicator icon thing on the perch but theres no actual turn signals and theres no actual switch for them, just a blank spot next to the turn signal icon thing. wtf? I know some of them were made without signals but I thought the sprint had it, not just the targa.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 06:47 PM   #21
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ordered a bunch of motor parts. I'm now like $650 in this thing and I dont even know if it'll run. fml. at this point it's less about the money than about being able to fully rebuild from the ground up and say yeah thats my work... gotta take pics.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 07:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Finesse View Post
tank de-rusted (HOW, it's part of the actual frame...)
electrolysis young lady



Just take the rod out every now and then to scrape off the rust and change the soda water between cleanings. After a couple of days of cycles, it should be shiny new.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:04 PM   #23
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I have a plan for that now, as soon as the motor runs. fingers crossed.... I think I will work on it tomorrow evening at the shop.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:05 PM   #24
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ordered a bunch of motor parts. I'm now like $650 in this thing and I dont even know if it'll run. fml. at this point it's less about the money than about being able to fully rebuild from the ground up and say yeah thats my work... gotta take pics.
For engine parts that are still good but stuck together, I have had good results soaking them in 50% ATF and 50% acetone.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:09 PM   #25
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Here is what I have to replace the old motor parts, mostly new...:

-crankshaft with rod (used)
-carbuertor
-ignition coil
-first gear clutch
-second gear clutch
-main bearings
-piston needle bearing
-piston, rings, clips
-oil seals
-set of gaskets
-reed valve
-intake manifold (used)

the cylinder can be re-used and is within spec after being cleaned and the cross-hatching pattern reapplied

I'm in now. go time tomorrow. have a feeling the flywheel might be toasted just like the can am I just took apart..
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:35 PM   #26
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Here is what I have to replace the old motor parts, mostly new...:
-oil seals
The proper seal of the main bearings is very important for these small engines to work properly.
Be careful not to damage the interior lip, which should work against a perfectly flat and smooth surface of the crankshaft.
Pre-lubricate those during assembly.

http://www.dansmc.com/vacuum_testing.htm

http://www.dansmc.com/roller_bearings.htm

Keep the interference fit by using heat/cold to remove and install bearings.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:46 PM   #27
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^Thank you!! will luckily be doing this with the help of my boss who has put countless motors back together so I am banking on that as a good chance for success, at least for a couple thousand miles
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Old May 9th, 2015, 08:27 PM   #28
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spent 5 hrs at the shop after work rebuilding this thing.

replaced the clutches, piston, rings, clips, needle bearing, rod and crankshaft, main bearing, oil seals, and gaskets. reused the cylinder and head, stator and flywheel. most of the bearings should have been replaced but i didn't have them and it's probably not going to blow up because of them,so...

I feel like a champ, I never did motor work before. my boss helped me a lot and made sure everything was good, so thats some peace of mind, but it was great, I learned a lot. I also learned that my style of work is not conducive to motor repairs and I need to be more organized before I attempt anything like that on a bigger bike or a customer's bike

need a cdi box and then we see if it runs.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 08:35 PM   #29
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......... I feel like a champ, I never did motor work before.........
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Old May 9th, 2015, 08:37 PM   #30
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everything went smoothly except one of the oil seals got seated in slightly crooked but we fixed that, and I stripped the case bolt at the crank near the head, which we helicoiled. it SHOULD run....

the main bearings were SUPER CRUNCHY. glad I replaced those. turns out these bikes have no head gaskets, so we flattened out the surface with those knife sharpening stones and hope for the best...
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Old May 10th, 2015, 10:26 AM   #31
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......... it SHOULD run....
It may not if the carburetor is dirty or out of adjustment.

Starting fluid or WD-40 are your friends for starting up.
Spray those abundantly into the intake of the carb while you keep the throttle full opened.

Don't forget to mix oil into the gasoline !!!
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:09 PM   #32
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I got a brand new carb for it.

I'm having trouble finding out what stator is in my bike.

It's a four-coil stator, this one exactly: http://www.1977mopeds.com/media/cata...-2003-1262.jpg



http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/file.php?2,file=131002

this is what it mounts to. I was told that those two little black lines on the left are responsible for pickup timing. it does not have an external hall effect sensor pickup

http://www.heeters.com/images/TomosMagneto-2.jpg

this is what the flywheel looks like.

where I am suck, is finding out what is the missing link between the stator wires and the spark plug. which cdi box I need. i know now that tomos uses integrated cdi/ignition coils, and so far I have narrowed it down to one with two wires or one with four wires but i dont know which one I need and no one seems to be able to say for sure AND ITS DRIVING ME ****ING NUTS @BLKBLKEvan
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:19 PM   #33
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:21 PM   #34
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I've been all up and down on that site forever! the one thing they don't tell you is, if you have the four-winding stator and flywheel with no external pickup sensor, do you need the two-wire or four-wire cdi box??

https://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/...x-230627-3.jpg

two wire or

https://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/...x-233729-2.jpg

four wire


I found a couple of vague hints suggesting I need the two wire...
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:25 PM   #35
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starting to think the four wire is for the a55 with a battery. i'm going to go with the two-wire and see what happens.

I did not think I would ever get so riled up over a moped!!!!
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:26 PM   #36
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:30 PM   #37
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I already saw that. but it still doesn't tell you which cdi/coil you need, especially because you can't really get original ones so the part numbers dont match up with the aftermarket.

trust me I'm good at digging up info on the net and I cannot find any straight answers, but from the sleuthing I've done, I think the two-wire coil/cdi box integrated little system is the way to go. I've found ONE tomos part factory new, located in germany.
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:35 PM   #38
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It seems to me that the two wires can only be a simple coil, which is an electrical transformer to multiply the voltage.
The one with four wires may be a combination coil/CDI, being the two additional wires the signal for timing of spark release.
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Old May 10th, 2015, 08:43 PM   #39
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I got the two wire from planetracingusa.com who advertised it as a 'two wire cdi box ignition coil for use with a35 tomos mopeds'

fingers crossed.
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Old May 10th, 2015, 09:45 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finesse View Post
I've been all up and down on that site forever! the one thing they don't tell you is, if you have the four-winding stator and flywheel with no external pickup sensor, do you need the two-wire or four-wire cdi box??

https://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/...x-230627-3.jpg

two wire or

https://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/...x-233729-2.jpg

four wire


I found a couple of vague hints suggesting I need the two wire...
I'd contact the web master and ask, and they might even update the site to prevent further confusion so other people won't make the same mistake.
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