Wiring toggle switch for ignition.

[nickadolph]

I'm replacing my keyed ignition with a toggle switch that will go under my passenger seat. The only problem is I dont know what type of switch I need (dual, triple pole), and which wires go to which lead on the switch. The stock ignition has 7 wires and there's also the anti-theft resistor attached to the gray wire. Any help is appreciated.

[rockNroll]

Originally Posted by nickadolph

I'm replacing my keyed ignition with a toggle switch that will go under my passenger seat. The only problem is I dont know what type of switch I need (dual, triple pole), and which wires go to which lead on the switch. The stock ignition has 7 wires and there's also the anti-theft resistor attached to the gray wire. Any help is appreciated.

You could use a 4 pole single throw toggle. There's eight terminals, four on each side. When the switch is thrown, each terminal on one side connects to the terminal opposite of it on the other side. Look at the bottom of your diagram, see the rectangle with "ignition switch connections?" That's what you have to get done.

First part shows brown, white and grey wires need to all connect. You could split one and attach it to two contacts on one side of your switch (let's say the brown wire), then connect white to the terminal opposite of one of the brown terminals and connect grey to the terminal opposite the other brown terminal.

Second part shows black connects to red. Black on one side of the switch and red on the opposite side.

Third part shows white/blk connects to orange/green. W/blk on one terminal, o/g wire on terminal opposite of it.

If I had the space for it, I'd rather use two 2 pole, single throw switches.

[nickadolph]

Is there anyway to connect some of the wires together so that I can just use one of the switches from autozone that have 2 or 3 leads on the back of the switch?

[rockNroll]

Originally Posted by nickadolph

Is there anyway to connect some of the wires together so that I can just use one of the switches from autozone that have 2 or 3 leads on the back of the switch?

no

[DmbShn41]

nickadolph,

I'd be careful how you do this. I would do it how rockNroll described, and only that way. Otherwise your frying something.

[nickadolph]

Yeah I'll do it how he said. I was just making sure I because most of the guys over on custom fighters are just using basic 30amp toggles.

[nickadolph]

It looks like 4 pole switches are kind of hard to find so I'll go with 2, dual poles. Can either of you confirm that these are the type I want to use.

[DmbShn41]

Should work. You can use a meter to determine which posts are active to each other when the switch is toggled.

[Vampyre]

I thought there was already an ignition toggle switch.

[nickadolph]

cool thanks for the help guys.

[nickadolph]

I can't for the life of me find any stores that carry any dpst automotive switches the closest I have found is a household switch linked here, Would this one work? What is the amp rating should the switch should have?

[nickadolph]

I found some 20amp spst toggles at walmart, thought I could just run four of them, would that be a problem? Would 20amp be too low or should I spring the extra $3/ea for some 35 amp toggles?

[mrlmd]

Can I ask why you want to do this?

[nickadolph]

My drag bars were getting in the way of the key slot, and the stock ignition switch is too bulky to remount anywhere else and still look good.

[nickadolph]

I've decided to go with 4 spst toggle switches because I haven't found any stores that carry dpst or 4pst switches yet. Would 20amp switches be good enough or do I need to match the amperage of the main fuse (30a)?

[Qomomoko]

old post.. and have searched but no luck especially having a 1993 (pregen ) ninja 250.

I am looking into getting a push button switch form the likes of McMaster-Car but this thread was the closest thing to help make this mod...





EDIT FOR MORE INFORMATION AND CLOSE UP

found this and i t looks similar to above it was in this forum .



but still dont follow the poles stuff..

SPDT or DPST ?????

and the rest of the options

[DEFY]

@Qomomoko

but still don't follow the poles stuff

Most common form of a switch is a single pole single throw, means you have one contact pole(input) and one optional throw (output). So if the contact is set to the output throw (ON) then the circuit is complete else (OFF) and its an open circuit. By adding throws you give it additional circuit paths that can be completed by the contact pole. Additional poles allow for different inputs and outputs,circuits, to be used in parallel so you have only one mechanism(The switch) that functions for them. The issue is you can't simply attach all the inputs to a single pole and all the outputs to a single throw and hope it works since they may have different voltage, current and circuit limitations.

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by DEFY

@Qomomoko



Most common form of a switch is a single pole single throw, means you have one contact pole(input) and one optional throw (output). So if the contact is set to the output throw (ON) then the circuit is complete else (OFF) and its an open circuit. By adding throws you give it additional circuit paths that can be completed by the contact pole. Additional poles allow for different inputs and outputs,circuits, to be used in parallel so you have only one mechanism(The switch) that functions for them. The issue is you can't simply attach all the inputs to a single pole and all the outputs to a single throw and hope it works since they may have different voltage, current and circuit limitations.

Yikes.. true true..

I forgot to mention.. its a track bike.. so all or MOST of those other auxiliaries are not "attached". Still the original wiring harness but I have thought if making a simplified one and get rid of all extra stuff.

What you say DEFY, bolds the fact that I need to be better technically informed for this mod...

check this out too form the diagram..



thanks....

[DEFY]

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

Yikes.. true true..

I forgot to mention.. its a track bike.. so all or MOST of those other auxiliaries are not "attached". Still the original wiring harness but I have thought if making a simplified one and get rid of all extra stuff.

What you say DEFY, bolds the fact that I need to be better technically informed for this mod...

check this out too form the diagram..



thanks....

if that chart is correct I would assume you could get away with a dpst or dpdt (and just not use the second throw) seeing as the battery(w) goes to 2 ignitions and the the battery(w/blk) goes to tail3. Not sure but you might be able to get away with just connecting the tail 1 to the tail 2, but I am not sure why they need to be separated when the switch is in the off position.

However you might also be able to get away with connecting battery(w/blk) directly to tail3 also if that is ground. And if that is true then you only need a spst.

Remember I am just going off the chart, I always meter out my connections multiple times before I connect them.

Perhaps @alex.s could say for sure

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by DEFY

if that chart is correct I would assume you could get away with a dpst or dpdt (and just not use the second throw) seeing as the battery(w) goes to 2 ignitions and the the battery(w/blk) goes to tail3. Not sure but you might be able to get away with just connecting the tail 1 to the tail 2, but I am not sure why they need to be separated when the switch is in the off position.

However you might also be able to get away with connecting battery(w/blk) directly to tail3 also if that is ground. And if that is true then you only need a spst.

Remember I am just going off the chart, I always meter out my connections multiple times before I connect them.

Perhaps @alex.s could say for sure

thanks for your info man..

I am attempting at following what they did....

i'll post what I did and how it works for future use...

[alex.s]

spst, one end to the battery, the other end splits into two leads- one with the resistor to gy, the other to br.

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by alex.s

spst, one end to the battery, the other end splits into two leads- one with the resistor to gy, the other to br.

thanks.. i'll read again tomorrow when i understand

time to re watch Game of Thrones...