Downshifting & Throttle Blipping

akshay11 · March 21st, 2012, 10:22 PM

Was having some difficulties with this a few days ago, but found this article that made it pretty easy to understand, as well as implement.

1. Downshifting smoothly on a sportbike, especially while braking hard from high speed, requires a definite measure of skill and dexterity. In order to avoid upsetting the bike, the engine rpm must be matched to road speed when the clutch is fully disengaged, otherwise the rear tire will momentarily "chatter" and upset the bike as the engine is forced to match road speed involuntarily. This means that the rider must "blip" the throttle to raise the engine rpm during downshifts-but he must do this while simultaneously pulling on the front brake lever to slow down. While this riding skill is obviously necessary on the racetrack, it can also pay big dividends in street-riding situations where riding smoothly is a must; for instance, any situation where you are cornering and braking at the same time.

2. The idea of blipping the throttle between downshifts can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but with a little practice, the technique can soon become second nature. First, make sure that your levers are adjusted so that they are comfortably in reach of your fingers when sitting in a normal riding position, and that your throttle is adjusted for minimal play in the cable. The front brake lever should be angled downward enough to be easily gripped with your hand in the closed throttle position. With the engine running in neutral, try blipping the throttle slightly while pulling firmly on the brake lever-note that it doesn't take much throttle movement to get the revs up. Then practice simultaneously pulling and releasing the clutch quickly when you blip the throttle (remembering to continue pulling on the brake lever as if you were slowing for a corner).

3. The next step is to practice this technique while riding in a safe area with no traffic. As you brake and begin your downshift, simply perform the same practice drill as before, but add the act of downshifting. The action of blipping the throttle and the downshift should be simultaneous and quick, and it doesn't take a whole lot of revs to match the engine to road speed; unless you're riding at racetrack aggression levels, all it will require is a slight throttle blip. With practice, you'll know just how much is necessary at various speeds. Note that mostly the palm of your hand handles the act of moving the throttle because your upper body weight is centered on your palms under braking anyway, and your fingers are busy actuating the brake and holding the bar. All it takes is a slight wrist movement to blip the throttle. You'll find this will help avoid affecting your braking action due to influencing your fingers' grip on the brake lever.

4. If you find that you still have problems with this technique, try adjusting your brake lever in so that it's easier to reach (without hindering your ability to pull the lever in for maximum braking, of course). If you still have trouble, you will have to employ the "non-blip" method many racers (such as AMA perennial front-runner Eric Bostrom) still use. This simply means the clutch is released gradually after the downshift so that the engine rpms can progressively match road speed without the rear wheel chattering. The downside is that the rider loses the added engine braking while the clutch is disengaged and the bike "freewheels," and he must compensate with the additional use of the brakes during this time. Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually.

Read more: http://www.sportrider.com/ride/rss/1...#ixzz1pouV7qG5

Motofool · March 22nd, 2012, 07:49 AM

Good find!

Plenty of good advice you have; practice will make you master it.

After that, you will do it without thinking about it.

squaregamer476 · April 10th, 2012, 02:43 AM

So....when i downshift, at the same time, I also blip the throttle and then let go the clutch after. Am i doing it right?
(pull in clutch, downshift+blip, let go clutch)

Plz correct if wrong. or is it engine braking?

csmith12 · April 10th, 2012, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaregamer476

So....when i downshift, at the same time, I also blip the throttle and then let go the clutch after. Am i doing it right?
(pull in clutch, downshift+blip, let go clutch)

Plz correct if wrong. or is it engine braking?

Skip to 7:08 and you question will be answered perfectly

And check the use of the front brake, it's for sure not supposed to be engine braking.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Motofool · April 10th, 2012, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaregamer476

So....when i downshift, at the same time, I also blip the throttle and then let go the clutch after. Am i doing it right?
(pull in clutch, downshift+blip, let go clutch)

Plz correct if wrong. or is it engine braking?

Be careful; there are two reasons for downshifting:

1) To keep the proper gear while slowing the bike down: Same process than shifting up while accelerating form a stop, but in reverse.

2) To keep the same speed of the bike or to accelerate, but having more torque on the rear wheel.

Caveat: The rear tire may slid (which is bad in a turn) if downshifting without properly matching engine's rpm's and rear tire speed (correct procedure: clutch in + throttle off / throttle blip + downshift / clutch out + just enough throttle on to keep rear tire from locking up or skidding)

Remember this:

For up-shifting the engine's rpm need to slowdown a little between lower and higher gear.

For down-shifting the engine's rpm need to increase a little between higher and lower gear.

How our gearbox works?:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequential_gearbox

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq11CusULlk

.

Rexbo · April 10th, 2012, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay11

Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually.

That is for sure... Last round of racing I found myself using a sort of combined blip/clutch drag method of corner entry that was working really well. But it pretty much meant that every extremity was doing something on corner entry. I was trail braking and rev matching with my right hand, managing clutch and rear tire slide with my left hand, downshifting with my left foot and standing/balancing on the peg with my right foot.

Damn motos are fun

EthioKnight · April 10th, 2012, 09:53 AM

It also help a lot if you use two fingers as opposed to your whole hand to brake whilst blipping...

squaregamer476 · April 10th, 2012, 09:49 PM

I got a lot of practicing to do. "pads are cheap , engine expensive"

Firehorse · April 10th, 2012, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaregamer476

I got a lot of practicing to do. "pads are cheap , engine expensive"

My course taught it and we practiced it like one motion - that of wringing out a towel!
Works like a charm. Your throttle wrist goes DOWN for shift DOWN and your wrist goes UP for shift UP.
The clutch hand always finds the clutch whether you're 'wringing the towel' up or down. The foot will always find the shifter between clutch positions - just a great excuse to go out and practice. When things begin to click, you'll be smiling like a fool - it's awesome!

My blips are still imperfect and will be for a while but hey, that's the best part of being a newbie - always more reasons to ride.

menikmati · April 10th, 2012, 11:04 PM

I've been practicing my blips for all my downshifts for the past couple of weeks and have seen improvement. Although when I try to blip while on the front brake, I tend to inadvertently vary the pressure on the lever so the bike pogos a little.

Firehorse · April 10th, 2012, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menikmati

I've been practicing my blips for all my downshifts for the past couple of weeks and have seen improvement. Although when I try to blip while on the front brake, I tend to inadvertently vary the pressure on the lever so the bike pogos a little.

Only practice

if you're already seeing improvement, you're doing great. You could practice the smooth brake/throttle motion without the blip too. That rocking motion that Reg Pridmore talks about in his book Smooth Riding? Sounds like what you're doing I think? The two fingers on the front brake and the other two on the throttle, they move in sync, smoothly and progressively, no jerky motions at all, rolling on the throttle, rolling off?
You can practice the two motions independently too and once you're comfy with one or the other, THEN add the next step.

For normal riding, you won't always need to blip to downshift because you'll be slowing down for a light or whatever already and you'll begin to hear when you are in the happy spot to downshift, those times all you need to do is lightly touch the shifter and it just plunks into gear like magic. That's clutchless downshifting and man, is it weird the first time you do that! Doesn't hurt the bike at all - I checked..

Remember you can't blip when you practice emergency braking, I once tried to do that..

stupid idea...

No need to practice everything at once and remember that there are many bikers out there that never blip the throttle and they ride smooth as butter. Don't rush it. You have your whole life to have fun learning.

Are you planning on going to the track at all? Most have brilliant beginner sessions that can help you fine tune things. Almost all of them have track days/instruction for total newbies.

Sorry, I'm yappy tonight, was about to go for a ride when the rain came back hard :-(

raybolic · April 11th, 2012, 03:23 AM

You can also start off practicing using the rear brakes. Once you get the idea move onto front brakes softly, then gradually harder.

squaregamer476 · April 11th, 2012, 03:50 PM

what may happen if I use the rear brake at the same time with the front? I did a 2hr practice and used the rear brake with the front a few times but i pressed the rear lightly. I found that it felt smoother when i applied both brakes.
So far, it went smoother than when i didnt apply the ft brake or rear brake at all. Im beginning to understand why the ft brake is applied. Its fun also. I copied the video at 7:08. =D
I choked a few times on the freeway ended up downshifting and not matching revs.Engine was revving crazy. =P My mind went blank. Im glad im on the 250. If i was on a bigger bike, I could have my first spill.

csmith12 · April 11th, 2012, 04:15 PM

I am not sure I would practice that on the freeway ijs...

Why the brakes are applied is rather simple. As K. Code states in TOTW2, "Brakes are cheap, engines are expensive". Or specifically, use the brakes (not the engine) to slow/stop and use the blipping technique to rev match your engine rpm to your rear wheel travel speed. Not only will it be smoother but you will already be in the proper and ready to get right back up to speed to stay with traffic flow.

Be safe out there!

squaregamer476 · April 11th, 2012, 05:22 PM

Im slowly catching on. I guess the freeway was a bad idea. Thanks for the tip.

akshay11 · April 11th, 2012, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaregamer476

Im slowly catching on. I guess the freeway was a bad idea. Thanks for the tip.

Lol. Yeah I've put like 500ish miles on the bike and have yet to get on the freeway.... granted its illegal here until u have ur license and I have my msf this week. But as far as the downshifting/blip thing it was sooo easy to do it once I just had a friend show me how to in person. Bike wasn't moving or anything but just showing me the motion made it so simple.. haven't had that nosedive feeling at all since then.

Jiggles · April 11th, 2012, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay11

Lol. Yeah I've put like 500ish miles on the bike and have yet to get on the freeway.... granted its illegal here until u have ur license and I have my msf this week. But as far as the downshifting/blip thing it was sooo easy to do it once I just had a friend show me how to in person. Bike wasn't moving or anything but just showing me the motion made it so simple.. haven't had that nosedive feeling at all since then.

IMO, down shifting and blipping is much harder on the 650 compared to the 250

akshay11 · April 11th, 2012, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiggles

IMO, down shifting and blipping is much harder on the 650 compared to the 250

I wouldn't know

. But it seem super easy on the 650. I've been using it to engine brake everytime I need to slow down now.. also that way if the light turns green while im slowing down or something I'm in the right gear to accelerate. Dunno how it could get any easier lol.

NDspd · April 11th, 2012, 07:46 PM

I've been blipping for almost 5,000 miles or more now and really have the hang of it. I've noticed the bike needs to ge to optimal temp before you can shift quickly. Having a race track for a county road also helps. It really prepares me a bit on how to prep for a corner or how to decelerate quickly. I wish I had a Gopro to show how I do it.

Jiggles · April 11th, 2012, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay11

I wouldn't know

. But it seem super easy on the 650. I've been using it to engine brake everytime I need to slow down now.. also that way if the light turns green while im slowing down or something I'm in the right gear to accelerate. Dunno how it could get any easier lol.

Well what I mean is I can do it perfectly buttery smooth so easily on the 250. On the 650 it takes more concentration to make it smooth. When I ride the 650, then I get back on the 250, I'm like OMG THIS IS SO MUCH EASIER TO RIDE LIKE RIDICULOUS

raybolic · April 11th, 2012, 08:47 PM

Most bigger cc bikes have slipper clutch. Probably the reason why some may think it's easy because slippers are more forgiving.

akshay11 · April 11th, 2012, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raybolic

Most bigger cc bikes have slipper clutch. Probably the reason why some may think it's easy because slippers are more forgiving.

Don't think mine has a slipper clutch. Before the friend (actually just the mechanic I go to) showed me, when I used to try downshifting I didn't blip the throttle and so I would feel the nosedive and also locked the back tire once. It's just that everytime I downshift now I match revs, and that 'nosedive' is completely gone. Sometimes if I downshift a bit too early the bike will rev up just a bit but its hardly noticeable now.

squaregamer476 · April 11th, 2012, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NDspd

I've been blipping for almost 5,000 miles or more now and really have the hang of it. I've noticed the bike needs to ge to optimal temp before you can shift quickly. Having a race track for a county road also helps. It really prepares me a bit on how to prep for a corner or how to decelerate quickly. I wish I had a Gopro to show how I do it.

plz do show it

raybolic · April 11th, 2012, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay11

Don't think mine has a slipper clutch. Before the friend (actually just the mechanic I go to) showed me, when I used to try downshifting I didn't blip the throttle and so I would feel the nosedive and also locked the back tire once. It's just that everytime I downshift now I match revs, and that 'nosedive' is completely gone. Sometimes if I downshift a bit too early the bike will rev up just a bit but its hardly noticeable now.

Well slipper helps to a certain degree only. When I said it's more forgiving I meant you dont need to rev match as precise as other bikes without slipper.

akshay11 · April 11th, 2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raybolic

Well slipper helps to a certain degree only. When I said it's more forgiving I meant you dont need to rev match as precise as other bikes without slipper.

I know there are slipper clutches you can get for the 650.. any other benefits? I don't mind rev matching at all, but if there were some other good reasons one should get a slipper clutch it could be an option.

edit: the post up above with Twist of the wrist.. at 7.30 they show the downshifting and then with a slipper clutch. 'It's more fun when you do it the old fashioned way'

raybolic · April 11th, 2012, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay11

I know there are slipper clutches you can get for the 650.. any other benefits? I don't mind rev matching at all, but if there were some other good reasons one should get a slipper clutch it could be an option.

edit: the post up above with Twist of the wrist.. at 7.30 they show the downshifting and then with a slipper clutch. 'It's more fun when you do it the old fashioned way'

And I agree it's more fun to do it the old fashioned way! I was asking some R6 guys with slippers and they said you still need to rev match to a certain degree.

(btw I havent gotten chance to ride a bike with slipper yet.. can't say I'm speaking from experience.)

JeffM · April 12th, 2012, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menikmati

I've been practicing my blips for all my downshifts for the past couple of weeks and have seen improvement. Although when I try to blip while on the front brake, I tend to inadvertently vary the pressure on the lever so the bike pogos a little.

It helps to let you index and middle fingers slide up and down on the brake lever (while pulling on it) as you rotate the throttle during the blip. Search for blipping and braking and there are a couple of videos that demonstrate the technique.

Jeff

choneofakind · April 12th, 2012, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffM

It helps to let you index and middle fingers slide up and down on the brake lever (while pulling on it) as you rotate the throttle during the blip. Search for blipping and braking and there are a couple of videos that demonstrate the technique.

Jeff

^^this. relax the fingers. blip the throttle quickly with the thumb and ring finger/pinky. biggest thing is be smooth.

Focus on keeping the braking constant while you blip. You'll notice your reaction is to hook on the brake lever and if you do, you'll see that the nose bobs up and down as you blip because you keep squeezing the brake and letting go.

I'll see about getting some blipping video next time I'm home. I think my camera mount will work for that as long as I rotate the camera

csmith12 · April 12th, 2012, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raybolic

And I agree it's more fun to do it the old fashioned way! I was asking some R6 guys with slippers and they said you still need to rev match to a certain degree.

(btw I havent gotten chance to ride a bike with slipper yet.. can't say I'm speaking from experience.)

This is true.... the slipper will not spoon feed the rider during shifting/braking. You still have to do match somewhere near 70-80% or it's not as smooth compared to non-slipper blipping.

Motofool · April 12th, 2012, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

...........

Focus on keeping the braking constant while you blip.

Directly from the Master:

http://forums.superbikeschool.com/in...?showtopic=258

"The Sequence

1. Gas goes off.
2. Brake goes on.
3. Bike slows some.
4. Clutch comes in.
Maintain brake lever pressure.
5. Blip the gas rapidly on and off. (Usually no more than a quarter turn).
Maintain brake lever pressure.
6. During the blip make the gear change positively and quickly.
Maintain brake lever pressure.
7. Clutch comes out.
Maintain brake lever pressure until desired turn entry speed is achieved.
8. Release brake smoothly.

Bear this in mind: the quicker you do steps #1 through #7 the better.

Brake Lever Control

Expert use of the brake during this entire cycle means that you can maintain, increase or decrease the pressure as desired, without abruptly stabbing or releasing the brake lever.

Number of Fingers

Some riders let their finger(s) slide over the brake lever as they blip the gas. Others grab the brake lever with the tips of their finger(s) and still get a continuous lever pressure without the bike pogoing up and down.

Whichever way you do it is fine. How many fingers you use for the brake is up to you: one, two, three or four, this is your choice although I recommend you try just two fingers, your index and middle ones." - K. Code

csmith12 · April 12th, 2012, 12:54 PM

Again... the vid I linked @10:30 K. Code personally reviews it step by step with our 2 track heros.

Trust me.... watch the video, actually watch the whole d*mn movie at least 2-3 times.

choneofakind · April 12th, 2012, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

Again... the vid I linked @10:30 K. Code personally reviews it step by step with our 2 track heros.

Trust me.... watch the video, actually watch the whole d*mn movie at least 2-3 times.

already done

and each section is bookmarked on Chrome so I can watch them, not matter if they get taken down or not

menikmati · April 12th, 2012, 08:48 PM

Tried to integrate braking with blipping today with no real noticeable improvement, still pogoing the bike even though I'm constantly trying to tell myself to keep consistent pressure on the brake lever.

I noticed that I was using primarily the palm of my hand closer to my index and middle fingers to blip so I would try to cock my wrist and crank it down in order to blip which probably influences my brake pressure lever. I'll make sure to try to grip the throttle with my ring and pinky finger to get a good blip. It seems that when I try to brake and blip, I'm overthinking and can't get a decent blip.

raybolic · April 12th, 2012, 08:52 PM

Soon it'll become second nature.. Just keep practicing!

Also brake lever inconsistent pressure isn't the only reason why your bike pogo's, but also if you are over blipping.

menikmati · April 12th, 2012, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raybolic

Soon it'll become second nature.. Just keep practicing!

Also brake lever inconsistent pressure isn't the only reason why your bike pogo's, but also if you are over blipping.

One of my problems is that I can barely get it to blip at all, it usually ends up with me cocking my wrist, getting a tiny/no blip and the bike nosediving from lack of revs and front brake.

csmith12 · April 12th, 2012, 09:06 PM

Don't sweat it Richard. It comes in time, and it's not something one just magically does the 1st time out from watching a video or even 1 on 1 coaching. Keep practicing, it will become more of habit and embedded in muscle memory allowing your attention to be focused elsewhere.

raybolic · April 12th, 2012, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menikmati

One of my problems is that I can barely get it to blip at all, it usually ends up with me cocking my wrist, getting a tiny/no blip and the bike nosediving from lack of revs and front brake.

You can consider using the rear brake first and understand how much you need to blip.

Also maybe you're trying to blip in very low rpm? i.e. If I find myself to be in 3rd gear at about 4k rpm, I just hold it in then click down..

menikmati · April 12th, 2012, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raybolic

You can consider using the rear brake first and understand how much you need to blip.

Also maybe you're trying to blip in very low rpm? i.e. If I find myself to be in 3rd gear at about 4k rpm, I just hold it in then click down..

I'll try to use the rear brake in the upcoming days to see. I usually downshift to keep myself at around 6-7k. Anything lower than about 4k I just do a regular downshift.

If I just rely on engine braking, I can do blip downshifts no problem, it's when I try to throw braking in there it throws me off.

akshay11 · April 13th, 2012, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menikmati

Tried to integrate braking with blipping today with no real noticeable improvement, still pogoing the bike even though I'm constantly trying to tell myself to keep consistent pressure on the brake lever.

I noticed that I was using primarily the palm of my ha.nd closer to my index and middle fingers to blip so I would try to cock my wrist and crank it down in order to blip which probably influences my brake pressure lever. I'll make sure to try to grip the throttle with my ring and pinky finger to get a good blip. It seems that when I try to brake and blip, I'm overthinking and can't get a decent blip.

Try blipping without front brake.. just start slowing down in advance. Won't take u long at all to get it. Then you can add in front brake

squaregamer476 · April 13th, 2012, 04:25 PM

Im catching on. idk how sensitive the bigger bikes brakes are but I feel like im getting the hang of it.
I Keep pressure on my ft brake (pointer and middle fingers), then I downshift and blip.

Sometimes i pogo, does that mean i let the clutch out too late? or did I have a hint throttle applied?

March 22nd, 2012, 07:49 AM	#2
Motofool Daily Ninjette rider Name: Hernan Location: Florida Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16	Good find! Plenty of good advice you have; practice will make you master it. After that, you will do it without thinking about it. __________________________________________________ *Motofool* *.................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly* "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí

April 11th, 2012, 04:15 PM	#14
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	I am not sure I would practice that on the freeway ijs... Why the brakes are applied is rather simple. As K. Code states in TOTW2, "Brakes are cheap, engines are expensive". Or specifically, use the brakes (not the engine) to slow/stop and use the blipping technique to rev match your engine rpm to your rear wheel travel speed. Not only will it be smoother but you will already be in the proper and ready to get right back up to speed to stay with traffic flow. Be safe out there! __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

April 12th, 2012, 12:54 PM	#31
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Again... the vid I linked @10:30 K. Code personally reviews it step by step with our 2 track heros. Trust me.... watch the video, actually watch the whole d*mn movie at least 2-3 times. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

April 12th, 2012, 09:06 PM	#36
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Don't sweat it Richard. It comes in time, and it's not something one just magically does the 1st time out from watching a video or even 1 on 1 coaching. Keep practicing, it will become more of habit and embedded in muscle memory allowing your attention to be focused elsewhere. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

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[sportrider - riding] - Riding Skills Series: Downshifting and "Blipping" the Throt	Ninjette Newsbot	Motorcycling News	0	February 24th, 2009 02:59 AM

March 21st, 2012, 10:22 PM	#1
akshay11 ninjette.org member Name: Akshay Location: Lakeville,MN Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 650 Posts: 146	Downshifting & Throttle Blipping Was having some difficulties with this a few days ago, but found this article that made it pretty easy to understand, as well as implement. 1. Downshifting smoothly on a sportbike, especially while braking hard from high speed, requires a definite measure of skill and dexterity. In order to avoid upsetting the bike, the engine rpm must be matched to road speed when the clutch is fully disengaged, otherwise the rear tire will momentarily "chatter" and upset the bike as the engine is forced to match road speed involuntarily. This means that the rider must "blip" the throttle to raise the engine rpm during downshifts-but he must do this while simultaneously pulling on the front brake lever to slow down. While this riding skill is obviously necessary on the racetrack, it can also pay big dividends in street-riding situations where riding smoothly is a must; for instance, any situation where you are cornering and braking at the same time. 2. The idea of blipping the throttle between downshifts can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but with a little practice, the technique can soon become second nature. First, make sure that your levers are adjusted so that they are comfortably in reach of your fingers when sitting in a normal riding position, and that your throttle is adjusted for minimal play in the cable. The front brake lever should be angled downward enough to be easily gripped with your hand in the closed throttle position. With the engine running in neutral, try blipping the throttle slightly while pulling firmly on the brake lever-note that it doesn't take much throttle movement to get the revs up. Then practice simultaneously pulling and releasing the clutch quickly when you blip the throttle (remembering to continue pulling on the brake lever as if you were slowing for a corner). 3. The next step is to practice this technique while riding in a safe area with no traffic. As you brake and begin your downshift, simply perform the same practice drill as before, but add the act of downshifting. The action of blipping the throttle and the downshift should be simultaneous and quick, and it doesn't take a whole lot of revs to match the engine to road speed; unless you're riding at racetrack aggression levels, all it will require is a slight throttle blip. With practice, you'll know just how much is necessary at various speeds. Note that mostly the palm of your hand handles the act of moving the throttle because your upper body weight is centered on your palms under braking anyway, and your fingers are busy actuating the brake and holding the bar. All it takes is a slight wrist movement to blip the throttle. You'll find this will help avoid affecting your braking action due to influencing your fingers' grip on the brake lever. 4. If you find that you still have problems with this technique, try adjusting your brake lever in so that it's easier to reach (without hindering your ability to pull the lever in for maximum braking, of course). If you still have trouble, you will have to employ the "non-blip" method many racers (such as AMA perennial front-runner Eric Bostrom) still use. This simply means the clutch is released gradually after the downshift so that the engine rpms can progressively match road speed without the rear wheel chattering. The downside is that the rider loses the added engine braking while the clutch is disengaged and the bike "freewheels," and he must compensate with the additional use of the brakes during this time. Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually. Read more: http://www.sportrider.com/ride/rss/1...#ixzz1pouV7qG5

April 10th, 2012, 02:43 AM	#3
squaregamer476 learning stages Name: M Location: ummmm Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): black 09 kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 284	So....when i downshift, at the same time, I also blip the throttle and then let go the clutch after. Am i doing it right? (pull in clutch, downshift+blip, let go clutch) Plz correct if wrong. or is it engine braking?

April 10th, 2012, 09:53 AM	#7
EthioKnight Super Noob Name: Alex Location: Mobile, AL Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, '84 Honda Spree 50cc Posts: A lot.	It also help a lot if you use two fingers as opposed to your whole hand to brake whilst blipping...

April 10th, 2012, 09:49 PM	#8
squaregamer476 learning stages Name: M Location: ummmm Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): black 09 kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 284	I got a lot of practicing to do. "pads are cheap , engine expensive"

April 10th, 2012, 11:04 PM	#10
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	I've been practicing my blips for all my downshifts for the past couple of weeks and have seen improvement. Although when I try to blip while on the front brake, I tend to inadvertently vary the pressure on the lever so the bike pogos a little.

April 11th, 2012, 03:23 AM	#12
raybolic ninjette.org member Name: Rei Location: HK Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja250R Posts: 63	You can also start off practicing using the rear brakes. Once you get the idea move onto front brakes softly, then gradually harder.

April 11th, 2012, 03:50 PM	#13
squaregamer476 learning stages Name: M Location: ummmm Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): black 09 kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 284	what may happen if I use the rear brake at the same time with the front? I did a 2hr practice and used the rear brake with the front a few times but i pressed the rear lightly. I found that it felt smoother when i applied both brakes. So far, it went smoother than when i didnt apply the ft brake or rear brake at all. Im beginning to understand why the ft brake is applied. Its fun also. I copied the video at 7:08. =D I choked a few times on the freeway ended up downshifting and not matching revs.Engine was revving crazy. =P My mind went blank. Im glad im on the 250. If i was on a bigger bike, I could have my first spill.

April 11th, 2012, 05:22 PM	#15
squaregamer476 learning stages Name: M Location: ummmm Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): black 09 kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 284	Im slowly catching on. I guess the freeway was a bad idea. Thanks for the tip.

April 11th, 2012, 07:46 PM	#19
NDspd 1/4 English, 3/4 Kick Ass Name: Jeremy Location: Dayton, OH Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2002 Triumph Speed Triple 955i, '05 Suzuki SV650S(retired), '11 Ninja 250R(sold) Posts: A lot.	I've been blipping for almost 5,000 miles or more now and really have the hang of it. I've noticed the bike needs to ge to optimal temp before you can shift quickly. Having a race track for a county road also helps. It really prepares me a bit on how to prep for a corner or how to decelerate quickly. I wish I had a Gopro to show how I do it.

April 11th, 2012, 08:47 PM	#21
raybolic ninjette.org member Name: Rei Location: HK Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja250R Posts: 63	Most bigger cc bikes have slipper clutch. Probably the reason why some may think it's easy because slippers are more forgiving.

April 12th, 2012, 08:48 PM	#33
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	Tried to integrate braking with blipping today with no real noticeable improvement, still pogoing the bike even though I'm constantly trying to tell myself to keep consistent pressure on the brake lever. I noticed that I was using primarily the palm of my hand closer to my index and middle fingers to blip so I would try to cock my wrist and crank it down in order to blip which probably influences my brake pressure lever. I'll make sure to try to grip the throttle with my ring and pinky finger to get a good blip. It seems that when I try to brake and blip, I'm overthinking and can't get a decent blip.

April 12th, 2012, 08:52 PM	#34
raybolic ninjette.org member Name: Rei Location: HK Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja250R Posts: 63	Soon it'll become second nature.. Just keep practicing! Also brake lever inconsistent pressure isn't the only reason why your bike pogo's, but also if you are over blipping.

April 13th, 2012, 04:25 PM	#40
squaregamer476 learning stages Name: M Location: ummmm Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): black 09 kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 284	Im catching on. idk how sensitive the bigger bikes brakes are but I feel like im getting the hang of it. I Keep pressure on my ft brake (pointer and middle fingers), then I downshift and blip. Sometimes i pogo, does that mean i let the clutch out too late? or did I have a hint throttle applied?